The Damaging Effects of GMOs Revealed
Posted by Dr. Mercola | June 11 2005 | 6,358 views
The plague of genetically modified (GM) foods infecting the country’s food supply continues to run rampant. In fact, an alarming 75 percent of all processed products in the United States contain some GM ingredients; but the infestation doesn’t stop there.
A report by the British-based news source The Independent revealed secret research done by GM food giant Monsanto that compared the biological effects of eating GM corn versus naturally grown corn on rats. According to the 1,139-page report:
• Rats fed GM corn had smaller kidneys and variations in the composition of their blood -- raising concerns that human health could also be adversely affected by eating such foods.
• Health problems were unseen in the rodents fed non-GM food.
Based on the findings, doctors speculate that the changes in the blood of the rodents could imply that the rats’ immune systems had been damaged, or that a disorder such as a tumor had grown and their systems were trying to fight it.
Previous Rodent Research
The results of the above study appear to support British research done seven years ago by scientist Dr. Arpad Pusztai. His controversial study suggested rats that ate GM potatoes damaged their health. However, the research was denounced by ministers and the British scientific establishment and Dr. Pusztai was forced into retirement.
Additionally, Dr. Pusztai noted a long list of significant differences between conventional corn and MON 863 -- the kind of corn modified by Monsanto to ward off corn rootworm.
The Independent May 22, 2005
Dr. Mercola's Comments:
Many natural health experts have been concerned for some time about the plague of genetically modified (GM) foods infiltrating your food supply, and for good reason: Roughly 75 percent of all processed foods in this country contain some GM ingredients.
It is now clearer than ever that these altered foods are capable of producing negative changes in humans.
Further, some scientists even want to put vaccines into plants without any real knowledge of what effects this unnatural addition will have on human health, or the health of our planet.
This is SHEER LUNACY.
Americans are largely kept in the dark regarding the truth about GM products. And, because there are no labeling requirements, most people are not even aware they are putting potentially harmful ingredients into their bodies.
Move Toward Better Health -- Avoid GM Foods
Therefore, since it’s obvious there's no telling what effects GM foods will have on your body, I believe it would be wise to try and avoid them whenever possible.
To guide you in understanding the problems associated with GM foods, I strongly recommend reading the incredible series Seeds of Doubt, written by staffers at the Sacramento Bee. Additionally, the steps below will help you steer clear of GM products for good:
• Reduce or Eliminate Processed Foods. As you learned, 75 percent of processed foods contain GM ingredients. There are many reasons why processed foods are not optimal for your health -- for instance they often contain trans fat, acrylamide and little nutritional value -- so avoiding them will not only help you to cut back on the amount of GM foods you are consuming, but will also boost your health.
• Read produce and food labels. GM soybeans and corn make up the largest portion of genetically modified crops. When looking at a product label, if any ingredients such as corn flour and meal, dextrin, starch, soy sauce, margarine, and tofu (to name a few) are listed, there's a good chance it has come from GM corn or soy, unless it's listed as organic.
• Buy organic produce. Buying organic is currently the best way to ensure that your food has not been genetically modified. By definition, food that is certified organic must be free from all GM organisms, produced without artificial pesticides and fertilizers and from an animal reared without the routine use of antibiotics, growth promoters or other drugs.
• Look at Produce Stickers. Those little stickers on fruit and vegetables contain different PLU codes depending on whether the fruit was conventionally grown, organically grown or genetically modified. The PLU code for conventionally grown fruit consists of four numbers, organically grown fruit has five numbers prefaced by the number nine, and GM fruit has five numbers prefaced by the number eight.
Finally, if you feel you can’t afford to buy organic foods, please read Colleen Huber’s excellent piece on how you can do so on your current budget.
Related Articles:
How do You Know if Your Food is Genetically Modified?
Genetically Modified Crops Are Contaminating Your Food
Why Genetically Modified Crops Can Devastate Health
Source: http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2005/06/11/gmo-effects.aspx
Saturday, April 3, 2010
Organic Cattle Industry versus Inorganic Beef Industry
The Ominous Beef Cover Up: The Hidden Truth Behind the Meat on Your Plate
Posted by Dr. Mercola | March 23 2010 | 148,283 views
Of all the animals that humans eat, none are held more responsible for climate change than cows. Cows not only consume more energy-intensive feed than other livestock, they also produce more methane, a powerful greenhouse gas.
But grass-fed cows may have the opposite effect.
Grass is a perennial. If cattle and other ruminants are rotated across pastures full of it, the animals' grazing will cut the blades, spurring new growth, while their trampling helps work manure and other decaying organic matter into the soil, turning it into rich humus. And healthy soil keeps carbon dioxide underground and out of the atmosphere.
Currently, 99 percent of U.S. beef cattle live out their last months on feedlots, where they are stuffed with corn and soybeans. Much of the carbon footprint of beef comes from growing grain to feed the animals, which requires fossil-fuel-based fertilizers, pesticides, and transportation.
Even though grass-fed cattle produce more methane than conventional ones (high-fiber plants are harder to digest than cereals), their net emissions are lower because they help the soil sequester carbon.
Sources:
Time Magazine January 25, 2010
Dr. Mercola's Comments:
Although this Time magazine article goes into some of the details about how cows may be partly responsible for global warming, I think the MAIN point here is the very real difference between conventionally-raised, grain-fed livestock, and organically-raised, grass-fed cows as it pertains to both your health, and the health of the planet as a whole.
The differences between the two are so vast; you’re really talking about two different animals, and two separate industries with entirely different farming practices and environmental impact.
As reported in Time magazine above, the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization released a report in 2006 entitled Livestock’s Role in Climate Change and Air Pollution. In it, they estimate that 18 percent of the world’s man-made greenhouse-gas emissions are produced by livestock. This information was heralded by vegetarians and environmentalists alike as proof that eating meat was bad not only for you, but for the entire planet.
But, it’s important to realize that this detrimental effect comes from modern farming practices, not from cows being raised naturally as they were designed to be.
The carbon footprint of conventional farming is mainly due to the unnatural feed that these animals are given, which requires lots of fossil fuels. Many don’t think about this, but fossil fuels are used in everything from the fertilizers and pesticides that are sprayed onto the crop to the transportation of the feed.
Grass does not require fossil fuels to grow (rotating pastures does the job instead), and other health harming practices, such as injecting the livestock with hormones and antibiotics, are also not allowed in organic farming.
This equates to healthier meat, a healthier you, and benefits to the planet.
Open Your Eyes With this Movie
If you prefer to be passively educated and enjoy watching videos, then I would highly recommend you view Food, Inc
I personally had not had a chance to view this movie until it was released on Netflix. You can actually stream it for free if you have a Netflix account and you don’t even have to order the DVD.
The full 90-minute movie highlights two of the most prominent investigative journalists in the industry, Michal Pollan (Omnivore’s Dilemma) and Eric Schlosser (Fast Food Nation), providing a very graphic and powerful reinforcement of the material presented in this article.
I highly encourage you to view this film as it will empower you and your family to make changes. Collectively we can have a very profound impact.
Why Grass-Fed Only Beef?
If you’re not already convinced that grass-fed beef is healthier for you, I highly recommend you take a look at the evidence. There’s quite a bit of support in the scientific literature, a few of which can be found at this reference link.
Some people are still confused on the issue of grass-fed as all cattle are initially raised on grass. Conventionally-raised cattle, however, are then shipped off to feed lots where they gain their last several hundred pounds of weight. They’re also typically treated with growth hormones to pack on the pounds faster, which cuts down on the cost of production.
It is this feeding phase that causes most of the problems and increases the risk of disease and contamination, both in the cattle, and in you.
The feedlot is a completely unnatural environment for the cattle, and this is also one of the reasons they’re put on so many antibiotics.
You know, the rationale behind my nutritional guidelines really boils down to one thing: Common sense. My recommendations stem largely from what scientific research has determined are the types of foods that humans are naturally designed to eat.
Health problems invariably surface the further you stray from eating such foods. Another way to say this would be that your body's biochemical make-up is adversely affected if you eat things that aren't right for it. One result of this is that your body's composition will inevitably change.
And why would things be any different for a cow?
When you think of a cow in its natural environment, doing what it naturally does, you likely will picture it grazing. Is it grazing on stalks of corn? Never! It's grazing on GRASS.
Grass is a cow's natural food. Corn and other grains are not.
When cows eat grains their body composition changes. Most importantly for you, these changes include an alteration in the balance of essential fats.
Grass-Fed Cows have Radically Different Nutritional Benefits
Previous studies have found that grass-fed beef not only has less fat, but also higher conjugated linoleic acid (CLA) than grain-fed beef, indicating grass-fed may be an all-around healthier choice.
In addition, a previous study by North Dakota State University on the nutritional differences between grass-fed and grain-fed bison found that grass-fed bison had omega-6 to omega-3 ratios of 4 to 1, whereas the grain-fed bison had ratios of 21 to 1. Additional studies by others clearly show that the longer cattle are fed grain, the greater the fatty acid imbalance.
As you may remember, the ideal ratio between these two fats is 1 to 1, so clearly, the grass-fed variety is far closer to the ideal.
Additionally, since grass-fed beef has been raised sans unnecessary antibiotics and growth hormones, they also have other added health benefits.
Grass-Fed Animal Products are a Natural, Healthy Source of CLA
Aside from having a far superior balance of omega fats, both the beef and milk from grass-fed cattle also contain far higher levels of another fatty acid, known as conjugated linoleic acid (CLA).
For example, meat from grass-fed animals contains three to five times more CLA than meat from grain-fed animals.
CLA has previously been deemed a potential weapon against cancer, which spurred its popularity as a dietary supplement. In fact, CLA is so potent a cancer fighter that animal studies show as little as 0.5 percent CLA in the diet could reduce tumors by over 50 percent.
It’s worth noting here, however, that I do not recommend that you take CLA supplements in any form.
As with all nutrients, you’re better off getting them from food than from synthetic supplements. Natural CLA found in foods such as grass-fed beef is far superior to a man-made version in pill form--not to mention that CLA supplements are outrageously expensive. Other natural sources include dairy products from grass-fed cows like raw milk, raw butter and raw milk cheese.
Another health benefit of CLA – and hence grass-fed beef and dairy, as a main source of it – is that it can inhibit the formation of body fat while preserving muscle tissue. This is why it’s also popular among body builders.
And, as detailed by Mary Shomon in an About.com article from 2003, studies suggest that CLA:
• Increases metabolic rate
• Decreases abdominal fat
• Enhances muscle growth
• Lowers cholesterol and triglycerides
• Lowers insulin resistance
• Reduces food-induced allergic reactions
• Enhances your immune system
This is in stark contrast to the findings from another study, which found that the type of CLA used in supplements has been associated with an array of negative side effects, such as:
• Promoting insulin resistance
• Raising glucose levels
• Reducing HDL (good cholesterol)
• Stomach upset
Clearly, getting your CLA from a natural source like grass-fed beef is the logical choice when faced with such findings!
Where’s the Beef?
Americans as a whole wrongly shunned many animal products when the "fear of fat" mentality swept across the nation.
The fact is that animal products can significantly benefit your health, IF you choose them wisely. That means avoiding conventionally-farmed and processed meat, dairy and egg products, opting for organically-raised and farmed varieties.
Keep in mind that you are what you eat. So if you’re just eating the commercially raised meat available in most grocery stores, your health will not benefit because those animals were not fed a healthy diet.
It’s important to understand that once cows and other grass-eating animals are fed grains, they stop producing CLA. So the ideal source of natural CLA is from 100 percent, exclusively grass-fed animals. The least expensive way to obtain grass-fed beef would be from a local farmer, to avoid high shipping fees. I also carry 100 percent grass-fed beef in my store, if you don’t have access to more local sources.
Final Thoughts
The more we return to traditional farming practices, the more nutritious our food will be and the lesser the environmental impact of our agricultural industry. So, whenever possible, support your own health and the livelihood of the farmers out there who are trying to do things the right way.
For more information about the farming practices used to raise most commercial beef, I highly recommend reading this previous article series by Michael Pollan called Discover How Your Beef is Really Raised. It’s an eye-opener.
Related Links:
Why Grass Fed Beef is Better For You
At Last, New Rules Set for Grass-Fed Meat
The Six Dangers of Common Beef, and How to Avoid Them
http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2010/03/23/how-grassfed-cows-could-save-the-planet.aspx
Posted by Dr. Mercola | March 23 2010 | 148,283 views
Of all the animals that humans eat, none are held more responsible for climate change than cows. Cows not only consume more energy-intensive feed than other livestock, they also produce more methane, a powerful greenhouse gas.
But grass-fed cows may have the opposite effect.
Grass is a perennial. If cattle and other ruminants are rotated across pastures full of it, the animals' grazing will cut the blades, spurring new growth, while their trampling helps work manure and other decaying organic matter into the soil, turning it into rich humus. And healthy soil keeps carbon dioxide underground and out of the atmosphere.
Currently, 99 percent of U.S. beef cattle live out their last months on feedlots, where they are stuffed with corn and soybeans. Much of the carbon footprint of beef comes from growing grain to feed the animals, which requires fossil-fuel-based fertilizers, pesticides, and transportation.
Even though grass-fed cattle produce more methane than conventional ones (high-fiber plants are harder to digest than cereals), their net emissions are lower because they help the soil sequester carbon.
Sources:
Time Magazine January 25, 2010
Dr. Mercola's Comments:
Although this Time magazine article goes into some of the details about how cows may be partly responsible for global warming, I think the MAIN point here is the very real difference between conventionally-raised, grain-fed livestock, and organically-raised, grass-fed cows as it pertains to both your health, and the health of the planet as a whole.
The differences between the two are so vast; you’re really talking about two different animals, and two separate industries with entirely different farming practices and environmental impact.
As reported in Time magazine above, the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization released a report in 2006 entitled Livestock’s Role in Climate Change and Air Pollution. In it, they estimate that 18 percent of the world’s man-made greenhouse-gas emissions are produced by livestock. This information was heralded by vegetarians and environmentalists alike as proof that eating meat was bad not only for you, but for the entire planet.
But, it’s important to realize that this detrimental effect comes from modern farming practices, not from cows being raised naturally as they were designed to be.
The carbon footprint of conventional farming is mainly due to the unnatural feed that these animals are given, which requires lots of fossil fuels. Many don’t think about this, but fossil fuels are used in everything from the fertilizers and pesticides that are sprayed onto the crop to the transportation of the feed.
Grass does not require fossil fuels to grow (rotating pastures does the job instead), and other health harming practices, such as injecting the livestock with hormones and antibiotics, are also not allowed in organic farming.
This equates to healthier meat, a healthier you, and benefits to the planet.
Open Your Eyes With this Movie
If you prefer to be passively educated and enjoy watching videos, then I would highly recommend you view Food, Inc
I personally had not had a chance to view this movie until it was released on Netflix. You can actually stream it for free if you have a Netflix account and you don’t even have to order the DVD.
The full 90-minute movie highlights two of the most prominent investigative journalists in the industry, Michal Pollan (Omnivore’s Dilemma) and Eric Schlosser (Fast Food Nation), providing a very graphic and powerful reinforcement of the material presented in this article.
I highly encourage you to view this film as it will empower you and your family to make changes. Collectively we can have a very profound impact.
Why Grass-Fed Only Beef?
If you’re not already convinced that grass-fed beef is healthier for you, I highly recommend you take a look at the evidence. There’s quite a bit of support in the scientific literature, a few of which can be found at this reference link.
Some people are still confused on the issue of grass-fed as all cattle are initially raised on grass. Conventionally-raised cattle, however, are then shipped off to feed lots where they gain their last several hundred pounds of weight. They’re also typically treated with growth hormones to pack on the pounds faster, which cuts down on the cost of production.
It is this feeding phase that causes most of the problems and increases the risk of disease and contamination, both in the cattle, and in you.
The feedlot is a completely unnatural environment for the cattle, and this is also one of the reasons they’re put on so many antibiotics.
You know, the rationale behind my nutritional guidelines really boils down to one thing: Common sense. My recommendations stem largely from what scientific research has determined are the types of foods that humans are naturally designed to eat.
Health problems invariably surface the further you stray from eating such foods. Another way to say this would be that your body's biochemical make-up is adversely affected if you eat things that aren't right for it. One result of this is that your body's composition will inevitably change.
And why would things be any different for a cow?
When you think of a cow in its natural environment, doing what it naturally does, you likely will picture it grazing. Is it grazing on stalks of corn? Never! It's grazing on GRASS.
Grass is a cow's natural food. Corn and other grains are not.
When cows eat grains their body composition changes. Most importantly for you, these changes include an alteration in the balance of essential fats.
Grass-Fed Cows have Radically Different Nutritional Benefits
Previous studies have found that grass-fed beef not only has less fat, but also higher conjugated linoleic acid (CLA) than grain-fed beef, indicating grass-fed may be an all-around healthier choice.
In addition, a previous study by North Dakota State University on the nutritional differences between grass-fed and grain-fed bison found that grass-fed bison had omega-6 to omega-3 ratios of 4 to 1, whereas the grain-fed bison had ratios of 21 to 1. Additional studies by others clearly show that the longer cattle are fed grain, the greater the fatty acid imbalance.
As you may remember, the ideal ratio between these two fats is 1 to 1, so clearly, the grass-fed variety is far closer to the ideal.
Additionally, since grass-fed beef has been raised sans unnecessary antibiotics and growth hormones, they also have other added health benefits.
Grass-Fed Animal Products are a Natural, Healthy Source of CLA
Aside from having a far superior balance of omega fats, both the beef and milk from grass-fed cattle also contain far higher levels of another fatty acid, known as conjugated linoleic acid (CLA).
For example, meat from grass-fed animals contains three to five times more CLA than meat from grain-fed animals.
CLA has previously been deemed a potential weapon against cancer, which spurred its popularity as a dietary supplement. In fact, CLA is so potent a cancer fighter that animal studies show as little as 0.5 percent CLA in the diet could reduce tumors by over 50 percent.
It’s worth noting here, however, that I do not recommend that you take CLA supplements in any form.
As with all nutrients, you’re better off getting them from food than from synthetic supplements. Natural CLA found in foods such as grass-fed beef is far superior to a man-made version in pill form--not to mention that CLA supplements are outrageously expensive. Other natural sources include dairy products from grass-fed cows like raw milk, raw butter and raw milk cheese.
Another health benefit of CLA – and hence grass-fed beef and dairy, as a main source of it – is that it can inhibit the formation of body fat while preserving muscle tissue. This is why it’s also popular among body builders.
And, as detailed by Mary Shomon in an About.com article from 2003, studies suggest that CLA:
• Increases metabolic rate
• Decreases abdominal fat
• Enhances muscle growth
• Lowers cholesterol and triglycerides
• Lowers insulin resistance
• Reduces food-induced allergic reactions
• Enhances your immune system
This is in stark contrast to the findings from another study, which found that the type of CLA used in supplements has been associated with an array of negative side effects, such as:
• Promoting insulin resistance
• Raising glucose levels
• Reducing HDL (good cholesterol)
• Stomach upset
Clearly, getting your CLA from a natural source like grass-fed beef is the logical choice when faced with such findings!
Where’s the Beef?
Americans as a whole wrongly shunned many animal products when the "fear of fat" mentality swept across the nation.
The fact is that animal products can significantly benefit your health, IF you choose them wisely. That means avoiding conventionally-farmed and processed meat, dairy and egg products, opting for organically-raised and farmed varieties.
Keep in mind that you are what you eat. So if you’re just eating the commercially raised meat available in most grocery stores, your health will not benefit because those animals were not fed a healthy diet.
It’s important to understand that once cows and other grass-eating animals are fed grains, they stop producing CLA. So the ideal source of natural CLA is from 100 percent, exclusively grass-fed animals. The least expensive way to obtain grass-fed beef would be from a local farmer, to avoid high shipping fees. I also carry 100 percent grass-fed beef in my store, if you don’t have access to more local sources.
Final Thoughts
The more we return to traditional farming practices, the more nutritious our food will be and the lesser the environmental impact of our agricultural industry. So, whenever possible, support your own health and the livelihood of the farmers out there who are trying to do things the right way.
For more information about the farming practices used to raise most commercial beef, I highly recommend reading this previous article series by Michael Pollan called Discover How Your Beef is Really Raised. It’s an eye-opener.
Related Links:
Why Grass Fed Beef is Better For You
At Last, New Rules Set for Grass-Fed Meat
The Six Dangers of Common Beef, and How to Avoid Them
http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2010/03/23/how-grassfed-cows-could-save-the-planet.aspx
Thursday, August 20, 2009
I Am Seeking Love, I Find Love
I Am Seeking Love, I Find Love
I seek love in a seed and I see that he who made the seed is full of love,
For without the seed, how can food be sustainable and widespread?
And I see the enemy altered the fertility gene of the seed,
Why?
So that the seed would no longer reproduce itself,
So that when the people are lured to plant his kind of seed,
The people will stop preserving the original native seed,
To use now the seed that the enemy has altered,
So that he can monopolize the seeds that can reproduce,
And only give – read: sell – to the people the seed
That cannot be planted the next time.
And so the people beg, the people kneel to the seed provider
Like helpless slaves to their master
But this master binds them not for love but for his own advantage
I do not see love in here
But I saw love in the One who made seed free to multiply
Free to reproduce, free to spread broad and wide
So that all people would live, all people would rejoice.
In God who made the original seed, I found love.
In Lucifer who engineered the genes of the seed,
So that all will not have food unless they kneel and follow him,
There is no love but hatred and death.
But there is the Lord Jesus who is ready to save you if you turn around
And decide to abandon Lucifer’s rule over you.
No, you cannot leave him; you are under his power, under his control.
But Jesus is able to snatch you out of Satan,
If you are really desirous to abandon Satan’s rule and way of life.
That is, if you now prefer love to hate.
When I gaze at the heaven and glance at the clouds, I see love.
It is because of love that waters are purified and collected in the sky
So once again, the Lord can replenish the earth with the drops of life, drops of love.
Then, the trees and plants will drink of the fresh waters from the heaven,
Not to forget to mention their appreciation by displaying wonderful colorful flowers!
Then by the waters the trees receive from the heavens
The aquifers can be refilled to the brim, overflowing,
Then the springs will continue to burst in fresh, cool white bubbles of pure water,
That feeds the beautiful waterfalls and the running rivers
To feed the fields below, and keep all families alive and together
Here I see love. I find love.
But to those who destroyed the trees
To let rainwater pour like torrents
Speeding down to the deep valleys and seas
Robbing the precious topsoil, impoverishing the fields,
Snubbing the thirsty fields that waited for it all day long,
Drying up the land, withering the crops.
Here I do not see love.
God created the earthworms and the living roots
To create pores on the earth
To keep water and air into the soil
To help in the great work of giving life to the plants,
In this I see great wise love.
But when I check the field, and see the remaining soil hardened,
When I find no more earthworms and roots to create pores in the soil
So that no air and no water can enter the earth anymore,
I find no love to those who killed the trees and its roots
And who killed the lowly yet indispensable earthworms!
So the land cannot give enough fruits anymore.
Because love was crippled, because love was hindered,
Life is difficult and suffocated.
I find life, but I see it is being arrested,
I see love but I see that it is being hindered and crippled.
I am seeking love and I can no longer find love.
I am seeking love and I find that it is no longer common here
Unlike it was in the olden days.
What is now common is lack of love.
I see hate and negligence so common.
I seek love and I find that it was there
It was there in the forests when the leaves were decomposed
And its elements taken by some rainwater
And as it glides down to the river
And through the river to the seas will go
To feed the plankton with these elements,
I see love!
I see love when forests feed the planktons
That fill the surface of the seas and oceans
I see love when the waters deliver the feeds-elements
To the consumers awaiting down there in the blue oceans.
And I see love reciprocated when the planktons
Disbands the feed-pack of phosphorus, nitrogen and oxygen,
Eating the first two, giving up the third one to the atmosphere
For men to breathe free,
As if these one-celled simple plants know that up there
The forests have dwindled and can no longer manufacture
Enough oxygen for the vast humanity and the animal kind.
I see love in this amazing system.
But those who destroy this wonderful system
By their logging, and by spilling oil into the vast surface of the oceans
So that the precious planktons are destroyed
I see not love!?
I sought for love
And I found it in the lowly much persecuted earthworm
and micro-organisms.
Their job is to finish what the bigger animals did:
manufacture organic fertilizer or fertile soil.
To implement God’s original law
“You shall help man replenish the Earth”!
These tiny worms further eat the dung of these bigger animals,
Further making them finer for the rootlets to eat
And with their enzymes, the worms render
the resulting organic fertilizer richer in nutrients.
And so, even if the evil men caused torrents to fall
And rob the farms with their topsoil,
I see love in these tiny worms who help eat leaves
And turn manure into soil replacements.
Here I see love.
But those who sprayed chemicals
And spread inorganic fertilizers all over the earth,
To kill the fragile earthworms and micro-organisms
To kill the fertility of the soil
To force people to buy their fake fertilizer
To make themselves rich,
I do not see love.
I seek love and I find that it was in the field,
Which is no longer around.
I saw love in Him who gifted mankind with the field
Because the field held families together.
But those who rendered the farm inutile
And scattered the families all over the world,
So that infidelity, emptiness, sorrows, drug addiction,
Torn the families apart into pieces,
THEY DO NOT HAVE LOVE.
I see love in the One Who sent the Savior
For in our folly and rebellion,
We have arrived at a point where
Unless there is a powerful Savior
Able to save us from the impending
Self-suicide that we are doing against ourselves,
DEATH IS OUR FINAL LOT!
I see LOVE in the One who created the Womb
As the first haven of the little Life
I see love when God created the Breasts
That this little child sucks its mother’s milk.
I see love when God equipped her milk with colostrums
To help build a strong immune system in the child
To help him resist sickness and diseases when grown into a man
I see love when God put the genuine taurine in the milk
To help every person attain peace, balance, harmony and stability
In his body, mind and emotions.
But he who introduced inorganic nitrogenous fertilizers
That produce nitrates and nitrites
That combine with the body’s amino acids, fat or protein,
To form into nitrosamines,
The deadliest carcinogens (cancer-causing agent),
he who delivers nitrosamines into the womb
And makes cervix or womb cancer No. 2 cancers among women –
he who kills mother
Or makes the Womb the child’s first grave –
How can love be in his heart?
He who sends nitrosamines to the breasts
And mix it into the mother’s milk --
he who converts it into a milk of death –
he has no love!?
He who has made breast cancer the women’s No. 1 cause of death
Is the one who does not know love.
He who has made the breasts the child’s second grave,
Surely there I find no love!
He who sent chemicals and carcinogens
Into the Womb and Breasts of mothers
So that mother and child will die,
I find no love in him.
He who is rejoicing that Barrenness,
Miscarriages, Deformities, Cancers
Are killing little children with their mothers,
Wiping the human race off the earth,
How can love be found in him?
How can it be called love unless it is pity, compassion, mercy?
I SEE LOVE IN GOD,
BUT I HAVE WITNESSED HATE IN SATAN!
I seek love in a seed and I see that he who made the seed is full of love,
For without the seed, how can food be sustainable and widespread?
And I see the enemy altered the fertility gene of the seed,
Why?
So that the seed would no longer reproduce itself,
So that when the people are lured to plant his kind of seed,
The people will stop preserving the original native seed,
To use now the seed that the enemy has altered,
So that he can monopolize the seeds that can reproduce,
And only give – read: sell – to the people the seed
That cannot be planted the next time.
And so the people beg, the people kneel to the seed provider
Like helpless slaves to their master
But this master binds them not for love but for his own advantage
I do not see love in here
But I saw love in the One who made seed free to multiply
Free to reproduce, free to spread broad and wide
So that all people would live, all people would rejoice.
In God who made the original seed, I found love.
In Lucifer who engineered the genes of the seed,
So that all will not have food unless they kneel and follow him,
There is no love but hatred and death.
But there is the Lord Jesus who is ready to save you if you turn around
And decide to abandon Lucifer’s rule over you.
No, you cannot leave him; you are under his power, under his control.
But Jesus is able to snatch you out of Satan,
If you are really desirous to abandon Satan’s rule and way of life.
That is, if you now prefer love to hate.
When I gaze at the heaven and glance at the clouds, I see love.
It is because of love that waters are purified and collected in the sky
So once again, the Lord can replenish the earth with the drops of life, drops of love.
Then, the trees and plants will drink of the fresh waters from the heaven,
Not to forget to mention their appreciation by displaying wonderful colorful flowers!
Then by the waters the trees receive from the heavens
The aquifers can be refilled to the brim, overflowing,
Then the springs will continue to burst in fresh, cool white bubbles of pure water,
That feeds the beautiful waterfalls and the running rivers
To feed the fields below, and keep all families alive and together
Here I see love. I find love.
But to those who destroyed the trees
To let rainwater pour like torrents
Speeding down to the deep valleys and seas
Robbing the precious topsoil, impoverishing the fields,
Snubbing the thirsty fields that waited for it all day long,
Drying up the land, withering the crops.
Here I do not see love.
God created the earthworms and the living roots
To create pores on the earth
To keep water and air into the soil
To help in the great work of giving life to the plants,
In this I see great wise love.
But when I check the field, and see the remaining soil hardened,
When I find no more earthworms and roots to create pores in the soil
So that no air and no water can enter the earth anymore,
I find no love to those who killed the trees and its roots
And who killed the lowly yet indispensable earthworms!
So the land cannot give enough fruits anymore.
Because love was crippled, because love was hindered,
Life is difficult and suffocated.
I find life, but I see it is being arrested,
I see love but I see that it is being hindered and crippled.
I am seeking love and I can no longer find love.
I am seeking love and I find that it is no longer common here
Unlike it was in the olden days.
What is now common is lack of love.
I see hate and negligence so common.
I seek love and I find that it was there
It was there in the forests when the leaves were decomposed
And its elements taken by some rainwater
And as it glides down to the river
And through the river to the seas will go
To feed the plankton with these elements,
I see love!
I see love when forests feed the planktons
That fill the surface of the seas and oceans
I see love when the waters deliver the feeds-elements
To the consumers awaiting down there in the blue oceans.
And I see love reciprocated when the planktons
Disbands the feed-pack of phosphorus, nitrogen and oxygen,
Eating the first two, giving up the third one to the atmosphere
For men to breathe free,
As if these one-celled simple plants know that up there
The forests have dwindled and can no longer manufacture
Enough oxygen for the vast humanity and the animal kind.
I see love in this amazing system.
But those who destroy this wonderful system
By their logging, and by spilling oil into the vast surface of the oceans
So that the precious planktons are destroyed
I see not love!?
I sought for love
And I found it in the lowly much persecuted earthworm
and micro-organisms.
Their job is to finish what the bigger animals did:
manufacture organic fertilizer or fertile soil.
To implement God’s original law
“You shall help man replenish the Earth”!
These tiny worms further eat the dung of these bigger animals,
Further making them finer for the rootlets to eat
And with their enzymes, the worms render
the resulting organic fertilizer richer in nutrients.
And so, even if the evil men caused torrents to fall
And rob the farms with their topsoil,
I see love in these tiny worms who help eat leaves
And turn manure into soil replacements.
Here I see love.
But those who sprayed chemicals
And spread inorganic fertilizers all over the earth,
To kill the fragile earthworms and micro-organisms
To kill the fertility of the soil
To force people to buy their fake fertilizer
To make themselves rich,
I do not see love.
I seek love and I find that it was in the field,
Which is no longer around.
I saw love in Him who gifted mankind with the field
Because the field held families together.
But those who rendered the farm inutile
And scattered the families all over the world,
So that infidelity, emptiness, sorrows, drug addiction,
Torn the families apart into pieces,
THEY DO NOT HAVE LOVE.
I see love in the One Who sent the Savior
For in our folly and rebellion,
We have arrived at a point where
Unless there is a powerful Savior
Able to save us from the impending
Self-suicide that we are doing against ourselves,
DEATH IS OUR FINAL LOT!
I see LOVE in the One who created the Womb
As the first haven of the little Life
I see love when God created the Breasts
That this little child sucks its mother’s milk.
I see love when God equipped her milk with colostrums
To help build a strong immune system in the child
To help him resist sickness and diseases when grown into a man
I see love when God put the genuine taurine in the milk
To help every person attain peace, balance, harmony and stability
In his body, mind and emotions.
But he who introduced inorganic nitrogenous fertilizers
That produce nitrates and nitrites
That combine with the body’s amino acids, fat or protein,
To form into nitrosamines,
The deadliest carcinogens (cancer-causing agent),
he who delivers nitrosamines into the womb
And makes cervix or womb cancer No. 2 cancers among women –
he who kills mother
Or makes the Womb the child’s first grave –
How can love be in his heart?
He who sends nitrosamines to the breasts
And mix it into the mother’s milk --
he who converts it into a milk of death –
he has no love!?
He who has made breast cancer the women’s No. 1 cause of death
Is the one who does not know love.
He who has made the breasts the child’s second grave,
Surely there I find no love!
He who sent chemicals and carcinogens
Into the Womb and Breasts of mothers
So that mother and child will die,
I find no love in him.
He who is rejoicing that Barrenness,
Miscarriages, Deformities, Cancers
Are killing little children with their mothers,
Wiping the human race off the earth,
How can love be found in him?
How can it be called love unless it is pity, compassion, mercy?
I SEE LOVE IN GOD,
BUT I HAVE WITNESSED HATE IN SATAN!
Why Should Hybrid Seeds Be Sterile?
Why Should Hybrid Seeds Be Sterile?
The Catholic Church is, I believe, correct to oppose the use of contraceptives of any form to prevent or slow down the population. I believe that any attempt or use of any means to stop or evade pregnancy save self-denial or natural means is wrong for two reasons: 1) a form of murder of the child-to-be; and b) it poses health risks to the mother, which is also a kind of destroying life – a form of murder.
Only God, being our Father, holds the exclusive right to determine when a child shall be born. The parents are mere instruments of the Father. But the parents have responsibilities that they should observe to ensure the Father’s will, such as that the mother should maintain excellent health, that the couple should practice self-control, moderation or self-denial to ensure quality seed (egg) and quality semen; in other words, too frequent sex will lead to low quality offspring.
The human father should also ensure a strong financial-economic foundation of the family, to make sure that mother and child would be in their best of health.
That’s how I see the cooperation between God and man for the bliss of the latter.
I agree with the Catholic Church to avoid chemical-scientific contraceptives. I agree that population should be allowed its own course and its own pace, after human parents exercise the principle of moderation, self-control and timed self-denial has been observed. Although I am not in favor of population or reproduction without self-control because this will lead to loss of health for the mother and low quality children in all aspects: physical, mental, spiritual, and emotional.
Yes, this mine own ‘no-human-intervention’ position regarding family planning stands against the desire of many towards unlimited sexual enjoyment. Well, if lust and other loose traits were our purpose here on earth, that is, if we have had no other higher purpose here on earth, then, your “anything goes” or “sky is the limit” enjoyment of life such as through unbridled sex might be a good thing.
But heaven is our destiny or wanted destiny – our aim. We do not want to go to hell. Now, who will go to hell? Those who do not exercise balance, self-discipline – those who to not practice self-control – those who do not exercise self-denial when needed.
In order to get to heaven, we must be men and women of balance, self-controlled, self-disciplined. We must not be men and women of excesses: lust, greed, gluttony, drunkenness.
So, according to this God-revealed will, WE ARE TO MULTIPLY BUT THE RIGHT PACE IS CO-DETERMINED BY MAN’S EXERCISE OF SELF-CONTROL, SELF-DENIAL, BALANCE AND MODERATION, AND OF COURSE, CHASTITY AND PURITY, NO PROSTITUTION, NO ADULTERY.
That is what I see how a God-guided population should proceed.
Too slow due to contraceptives or too fast due to lust should be seen as against God’s will, hence, sin. Hence, harmful to the person, to the family, to the nation, and to society.
Those who used contraceptives and enjoyed unlimited sex, not just with their spouse but with unlimited number of others, like the USA and other advanced countries – they are reaping a very bad effect, namely: BARRENNESS – STERILITY!
And this is leading to aging population without younger generation succeeding the parents!
Results? Many bad results. One bad result is: their working force or working sector today which age range is 18 to 40s, are getting burdened more and more with the rise of old people and the lack of younger workers!
These present workers are the ones paying for the heavy Social Security pensions and medical care of the old people.
The next decades will be worse for this present working force, for at that near future, nobody will working for them, nor paying for their SSS pension and medicare!
Another bad effect of contraceptives is: the lack of menpower – read: army!
This is the case now with the U.S.A.
So while the ancient Mayan civilization in South America is believed to have been suddenly destroyed by a sudden severe famine, I believe that before famine will occur, this thing called BARRENNESS will already do much damage contributing to the diminishing and downfall of the American race!
Current prophecies have foreseen the fate soon to befall the USA: “become a third world country” overnight!
Read www.prophecies.org for more information.
***
So, you can see that I am pro-population - the wise, loving and proper manner of population growth. Not too slow, not too fast. Not too many, not too few.
And the food production should keep pace with that!
Now, if I show myself to be in favor of increase of population or at least sufficient replacement of the older population by the new generation, what then should be my position regarding the production of rice, corn and other FOOD?
Am I pro-hybrid? Am I pro-GMO? Or what?
Let us first have some definitions:
Crossbreed – to mate (parents of different breeds, or two varieties of the same species)
n. a plant or animal produced by crossbreeding
Crossbred – produced by crossbreeding
Hybrid – an offspring resulting from crossbreeding
Latin: hybrida, offspring of a domestic sow and a wild boar
So, there is no diction distinction between crossbred and hybrid. But in biology or micro-biology, the difference between crossbred and hybrid is in the use of chemicals and scientific methods.
Hybrid has come to be known as the offspring of chemically-aided and scientifically-processed reproduction.
For easy understanding, let us confine the word crossbred to natural, ancient, chemical-free, not-scientific method of mating two varieties or breeds.
Yes to Crossbreeding, No to Hybriding nor GMO
What is my main reason why I am against hybrid and GMO? My main reason for being against hybrid and GMO, among other reasons, is their application of “contraceptives” on rice, corn, and others. Our rice and corn are no longer able to conceive – read: reproduce. Their seeds become sterile. Our farmers are using seeds of rice and corn which they would not be able to replant using the offspring seeds.
Why should hybrid be sterile?
Is that a population control? Should we apply population control on foods like rice, and corn?
They use the following methods of contraceptives among rice and corn: they use chemical or bacteria or poison to disable or deactivate or cripple the reproductive genes of the rice and corn seeds.
Why? What is their purpose?
If their purpose is to give us higher yielding variety, why should it come with a crippled reproductive gene? So, the farmers would not be able to replant the borne seeds and so that the farmers would always depend on seed growers?
So, profit is the motive.
Is it not selfish? For there are profits which are not selfish and therefore, acceptable to God.
What determine selfishness and selflessness?
One criterion to judge the issue is the effect on the concerned individuals and people both in the short-term and long-run.
At the present time, which is still in the short-term to medium-term, and no longer-term effect is yet observable, the disadvantage is only in the fact that farmers are enslaved by the seed growers; the farmers must buy seeds from the seed growers.
This is already being felt by the farmers as a burden.
What about the long-term effect or danger? Can we foresee it?
There is one danger that I have seen, and this is: THE SEED MONOPOLY BY THE FEW WILL LEAD TO SWEEPING WIDESPREAD FAMINE OF ALL.
Why?
Here is the scenario: Seed Growers (those who produce seeds for planting) are only less than 1% of the total number of farmers in the country or in the world for that matter.
These seed monopolists are as vulnerable as the ordinary farmers when “forces major” are concerned – they do not have special protection against drought, El Niño, La Niña, other forms of climate change, global warming and the storms or hurricanes!
Most of these seed growers are concentrated in one place. There the danger is greater because when a typhoon strikes that particular place, the rest of the country that is spared of that typhoon or are not in the path of the typhoon will not be spared by the effect because the seed growers are knocked out! There are no seeds for all farmers in the country!
That is the danger of monopoly or centralize operation. And the all-wise Systems Developer, whose name is Jehovah, must have foreseen that and this must be one of the wise reasons why He decentralize seed growing, by making each plant to produce seeds that reproduce by itself, not to mention that God is against one man controlling the other in this manner.
Sure, God wants us to serve one another. So not all of us are carpenters so that we will need the carpenters, and so mutual need will encourage neighborly cooperation and love.
But control of one fellowman by another? That is a different thing and which God is against of!
Have you noticed in Genesis 1 where God gave man dominion or rule over the lower forms of creation such as animals and plants but there is no hint in Genesis 1 where God wants man to rule over his fellowman!
This is reinforced by our Lord Jesus Christ.
In Matthew 20, He told mankind that God is not in favor of one man lording another. God’s will is revealed: MAN SHOULD SERVE ONE ANOTHER BUT NOT AS SLAVES (Matthew 20) BUT AS FELLOW SERVANTS (John 13:1-17) AND AS BROTHERS UNDER ONE HEAVENLY FATHER ( Matthew 23:8-9).
Knocking down the reproductive genes of the seeds so that all farmers will be forced to buy from – read: worship – the seed growers and above all, MONSANTO – read: Saint Monster! – that is Luciferic!
To remove – read: destroy the natural, built-in – reproductive capability of seeds in order to force people to buy from Monsanto and its local seed growers, is against God’s will!
God’s will is revealed in Genesis 1: free and unbridled reproduction of seeds and species. No profiteering is allowed.
Seeds that are fertile and not sterile must be widespread as it had been in the beginning. They must not be monopolized!
This serves as notice and stern warning to Monsanto and its contractors (seed growers). Do not monopolize. Do not cripple the built-in capacity of plants to produce self-replicating seeds.
Be forewarned or else when the time comes that your seeds will fail in the face of unpredictable weather, climate change and global warming, and other stronger forces, do beware when the farmers and people will rise against you! That will be the time when they will wake up to see your treachery.
Those who are municipal agriculturists, do beware. For if you obey blindly the bidding of Monsanto et al, to the point that the dreaded total crop failure will occur, then, you will not be spared from the ire of the farmers and the people.
They will yearn for their native resistant and free native seeds. And they will understand that you are responsible for the disappearance of the native seeds by your deceptive introduction of the hybrid and GMO seeds.
What I finally advice you is this: promote natural crossbreeding of two or more natives which retain their built-in capacity to reproduce.
To repeat: IT IS SUPER-IMPORTANT THAT FARMERS BE ABLE TO PRODUCE THEIR OWN SEEDS THAT THEY CAN PLANT SO THAT WHEN DISASTER FALLS ON OTHER SEED GROWERS, THE REST OF THE COUNTRY WILL BE SPARED, AND THE REMAINING FARMERS UNAFFECTED BY THE CALAMITY CAN STILL GROW THEIR RICE OR CORN.
May I repeat: TO LET SEED GROWING BE ENTRUSTED TO A FEW IS HIGHLY DANGEROUS SIMPLY BECAUSE THE CLIMATE OR WEATHER IS SO UNCERTAIN AND UNRELIABLE. ONE SUDDEN DROUGHT TO BEFALL A SEED GROWING AREA WILL MEAN TOTAL DISASTER OF THE WHOLE COUNTRY! SO THIS IDEA OF CENTRALIZED, MONOPOLIZED, CONCENTRATED, SELECTIVE SEED GROWING IS NAÏVE, FOOLISH, BLINDNESS, AND SELFISH!
THIS MUST BE STOPPED!
We, the farmers, should only accept hybrid seeds that can reproduce themselves, so that we will no longer depend on selected seed growers every next planting season.
Again, in this dangerous world of climate change, global warming, and successive storms, MONOPOLY OF SEED GROWING IS VERY DANGEROUS.
So, be wisely informed and guided accordingly.
And God the Father will bless you.
Do not give this article to the farmers but to their educated and brilliant sons and daughters!!! And let these children explain to their fathers.
The Catholic Church is, I believe, correct to oppose the use of contraceptives of any form to prevent or slow down the population. I believe that any attempt or use of any means to stop or evade pregnancy save self-denial or natural means is wrong for two reasons: 1) a form of murder of the child-to-be; and b) it poses health risks to the mother, which is also a kind of destroying life – a form of murder.
Only God, being our Father, holds the exclusive right to determine when a child shall be born. The parents are mere instruments of the Father. But the parents have responsibilities that they should observe to ensure the Father’s will, such as that the mother should maintain excellent health, that the couple should practice self-control, moderation or self-denial to ensure quality seed (egg) and quality semen; in other words, too frequent sex will lead to low quality offspring.
The human father should also ensure a strong financial-economic foundation of the family, to make sure that mother and child would be in their best of health.
That’s how I see the cooperation between God and man for the bliss of the latter.
I agree with the Catholic Church to avoid chemical-scientific contraceptives. I agree that population should be allowed its own course and its own pace, after human parents exercise the principle of moderation, self-control and timed self-denial has been observed. Although I am not in favor of population or reproduction without self-control because this will lead to loss of health for the mother and low quality children in all aspects: physical, mental, spiritual, and emotional.
Yes, this mine own ‘no-human-intervention’ position regarding family planning stands against the desire of many towards unlimited sexual enjoyment. Well, if lust and other loose traits were our purpose here on earth, that is, if we have had no other higher purpose here on earth, then, your “anything goes” or “sky is the limit” enjoyment of life such as through unbridled sex might be a good thing.
But heaven is our destiny or wanted destiny – our aim. We do not want to go to hell. Now, who will go to hell? Those who do not exercise balance, self-discipline – those who to not practice self-control – those who do not exercise self-denial when needed.
In order to get to heaven, we must be men and women of balance, self-controlled, self-disciplined. We must not be men and women of excesses: lust, greed, gluttony, drunkenness.
So, according to this God-revealed will, WE ARE TO MULTIPLY BUT THE RIGHT PACE IS CO-DETERMINED BY MAN’S EXERCISE OF SELF-CONTROL, SELF-DENIAL, BALANCE AND MODERATION, AND OF COURSE, CHASTITY AND PURITY, NO PROSTITUTION, NO ADULTERY.
That is what I see how a God-guided population should proceed.
Too slow due to contraceptives or too fast due to lust should be seen as against God’s will, hence, sin. Hence, harmful to the person, to the family, to the nation, and to society.
Those who used contraceptives and enjoyed unlimited sex, not just with their spouse but with unlimited number of others, like the USA and other advanced countries – they are reaping a very bad effect, namely: BARRENNESS – STERILITY!
And this is leading to aging population without younger generation succeeding the parents!
Results? Many bad results. One bad result is: their working force or working sector today which age range is 18 to 40s, are getting burdened more and more with the rise of old people and the lack of younger workers!
These present workers are the ones paying for the heavy Social Security pensions and medical care of the old people.
The next decades will be worse for this present working force, for at that near future, nobody will working for them, nor paying for their SSS pension and medicare!
Another bad effect of contraceptives is: the lack of menpower – read: army!
This is the case now with the U.S.A.
So while the ancient Mayan civilization in South America is believed to have been suddenly destroyed by a sudden severe famine, I believe that before famine will occur, this thing called BARRENNESS will already do much damage contributing to the diminishing and downfall of the American race!
Current prophecies have foreseen the fate soon to befall the USA: “become a third world country” overnight!
Read www.prophecies.org for more information.
***
So, you can see that I am pro-population - the wise, loving and proper manner of population growth. Not too slow, not too fast. Not too many, not too few.
And the food production should keep pace with that!
Now, if I show myself to be in favor of increase of population or at least sufficient replacement of the older population by the new generation, what then should be my position regarding the production of rice, corn and other FOOD?
Am I pro-hybrid? Am I pro-GMO? Or what?
Let us first have some definitions:
Crossbreed – to mate (parents of different breeds, or two varieties of the same species)
n. a plant or animal produced by crossbreeding
Crossbred – produced by crossbreeding
Hybrid – an offspring resulting from crossbreeding
Latin: hybrida, offspring of a domestic sow and a wild boar
So, there is no diction distinction between crossbred and hybrid. But in biology or micro-biology, the difference between crossbred and hybrid is in the use of chemicals and scientific methods.
Hybrid has come to be known as the offspring of chemically-aided and scientifically-processed reproduction.
For easy understanding, let us confine the word crossbred to natural, ancient, chemical-free, not-scientific method of mating two varieties or breeds.
Yes to Crossbreeding, No to Hybriding nor GMO
What is my main reason why I am against hybrid and GMO? My main reason for being against hybrid and GMO, among other reasons, is their application of “contraceptives” on rice, corn, and others. Our rice and corn are no longer able to conceive – read: reproduce. Their seeds become sterile. Our farmers are using seeds of rice and corn which they would not be able to replant using the offspring seeds.
Why should hybrid be sterile?
Is that a population control? Should we apply population control on foods like rice, and corn?
They use the following methods of contraceptives among rice and corn: they use chemical or bacteria or poison to disable or deactivate or cripple the reproductive genes of the rice and corn seeds.
Why? What is their purpose?
If their purpose is to give us higher yielding variety, why should it come with a crippled reproductive gene? So, the farmers would not be able to replant the borne seeds and so that the farmers would always depend on seed growers?
So, profit is the motive.
Is it not selfish? For there are profits which are not selfish and therefore, acceptable to God.
What determine selfishness and selflessness?
One criterion to judge the issue is the effect on the concerned individuals and people both in the short-term and long-run.
At the present time, which is still in the short-term to medium-term, and no longer-term effect is yet observable, the disadvantage is only in the fact that farmers are enslaved by the seed growers; the farmers must buy seeds from the seed growers.
This is already being felt by the farmers as a burden.
What about the long-term effect or danger? Can we foresee it?
There is one danger that I have seen, and this is: THE SEED MONOPOLY BY THE FEW WILL LEAD TO SWEEPING WIDESPREAD FAMINE OF ALL.
Why?
Here is the scenario: Seed Growers (those who produce seeds for planting) are only less than 1% of the total number of farmers in the country or in the world for that matter.
These seed monopolists are as vulnerable as the ordinary farmers when “forces major” are concerned – they do not have special protection against drought, El Niño, La Niña, other forms of climate change, global warming and the storms or hurricanes!
Most of these seed growers are concentrated in one place. There the danger is greater because when a typhoon strikes that particular place, the rest of the country that is spared of that typhoon or are not in the path of the typhoon will not be spared by the effect because the seed growers are knocked out! There are no seeds for all farmers in the country!
That is the danger of monopoly or centralize operation. And the all-wise Systems Developer, whose name is Jehovah, must have foreseen that and this must be one of the wise reasons why He decentralize seed growing, by making each plant to produce seeds that reproduce by itself, not to mention that God is against one man controlling the other in this manner.
Sure, God wants us to serve one another. So not all of us are carpenters so that we will need the carpenters, and so mutual need will encourage neighborly cooperation and love.
But control of one fellowman by another? That is a different thing and which God is against of!
Have you noticed in Genesis 1 where God gave man dominion or rule over the lower forms of creation such as animals and plants but there is no hint in Genesis 1 where God wants man to rule over his fellowman!
This is reinforced by our Lord Jesus Christ.
In Matthew 20, He told mankind that God is not in favor of one man lording another. God’s will is revealed: MAN SHOULD SERVE ONE ANOTHER BUT NOT AS SLAVES (Matthew 20) BUT AS FELLOW SERVANTS (John 13:1-17) AND AS BROTHERS UNDER ONE HEAVENLY FATHER ( Matthew 23:8-9).
Knocking down the reproductive genes of the seeds so that all farmers will be forced to buy from – read: worship – the seed growers and above all, MONSANTO – read: Saint Monster! – that is Luciferic!
To remove – read: destroy the natural, built-in – reproductive capability of seeds in order to force people to buy from Monsanto and its local seed growers, is against God’s will!
God’s will is revealed in Genesis 1: free and unbridled reproduction of seeds and species. No profiteering is allowed.
Seeds that are fertile and not sterile must be widespread as it had been in the beginning. They must not be monopolized!
This serves as notice and stern warning to Monsanto and its contractors (seed growers). Do not monopolize. Do not cripple the built-in capacity of plants to produce self-replicating seeds.
Be forewarned or else when the time comes that your seeds will fail in the face of unpredictable weather, climate change and global warming, and other stronger forces, do beware when the farmers and people will rise against you! That will be the time when they will wake up to see your treachery.
Those who are municipal agriculturists, do beware. For if you obey blindly the bidding of Monsanto et al, to the point that the dreaded total crop failure will occur, then, you will not be spared from the ire of the farmers and the people.
They will yearn for their native resistant and free native seeds. And they will understand that you are responsible for the disappearance of the native seeds by your deceptive introduction of the hybrid and GMO seeds.
What I finally advice you is this: promote natural crossbreeding of two or more natives which retain their built-in capacity to reproduce.
To repeat: IT IS SUPER-IMPORTANT THAT FARMERS BE ABLE TO PRODUCE THEIR OWN SEEDS THAT THEY CAN PLANT SO THAT WHEN DISASTER FALLS ON OTHER SEED GROWERS, THE REST OF THE COUNTRY WILL BE SPARED, AND THE REMAINING FARMERS UNAFFECTED BY THE CALAMITY CAN STILL GROW THEIR RICE OR CORN.
May I repeat: TO LET SEED GROWING BE ENTRUSTED TO A FEW IS HIGHLY DANGEROUS SIMPLY BECAUSE THE CLIMATE OR WEATHER IS SO UNCERTAIN AND UNRELIABLE. ONE SUDDEN DROUGHT TO BEFALL A SEED GROWING AREA WILL MEAN TOTAL DISASTER OF THE WHOLE COUNTRY! SO THIS IDEA OF CENTRALIZED, MONOPOLIZED, CONCENTRATED, SELECTIVE SEED GROWING IS NAÏVE, FOOLISH, BLINDNESS, AND SELFISH!
THIS MUST BE STOPPED!
We, the farmers, should only accept hybrid seeds that can reproduce themselves, so that we will no longer depend on selected seed growers every next planting season.
Again, in this dangerous world of climate change, global warming, and successive storms, MONOPOLY OF SEED GROWING IS VERY DANGEROUS.
So, be wisely informed and guided accordingly.
And God the Father will bless you.
Do not give this article to the farmers but to their educated and brilliant sons and daughters!!! And let these children explain to their fathers.
DO NOT LET A FEW MONOPOLIZE SEEDS
DO NOT LET A FEW MONOPOLIZE SEEDS
DATE: August 13, 2009
TO: Concerned Leaders & Farmers
FROM: Arnulfo Yu Laniba,
Agape Foundation (Agasoft)
RE: The Danger of Monopolizing/Centralization of Seed Production
Dear Gentlemen:
I have with me two feature articles, one is published in Agriculture Magazine, January 2009 issue, entitled “Certified Rice Seeds Made this Couple Rich.”
Since our purpose is not to embarrass nor to destroy other businessman or a fellowman, I do not want to mention names, but I want to give you an idea how profitable this business is.
This couple started with 6 hectares planting certified seeds. It is called “certified seeds” because either or both the government and multi-national seeds companies like Monsanto, East West, and others have certified their seeds for commercial sale and distribution.
After 13 years of operation, this couple has now 70 hectares devoted to grow 17,500 bags (40 kilos per bag) of certified seeds. At P1,200.00 per bag, the couple has a gross sale of P 21,000,000.00 a year! Truly, this has really become a ‘goldmine’ as they say.
It is already so endeared to the concerned owner of such goldmine that like other big-time businesses including the illegal drugs, they owner would be willing to hire gunmen to assassinate anyone who would disturb their peace, or hamper their smooth operation.
It is not my purpose to make enemies or to endanger my livelihood and family. For being poor, I am physically vulnerable to hired guns. Spiritually, or concerning my soul, that is a totally different matter. Yet, we still feel concerned about our families left widowed and orphaned when you, as the father of the family, suddenly “disappeared” like what happened to Jonas Burgos whose only “crime” was his leading the poor farmers to abandon inorganic farming and shift to organic farming, something which disturbs – read: threatens – the profitable businesses of inorganic fertilizers and chemical pesticides. Assisted by gullible soldiers who have no other conscience than the salary they got from the government instead of being concerned for the plight of their fellow poor, the big companies were behind the disappearance of Jonas Burgos.
But more than this, my concern also goes beyond the welfare of the farmers and consumers. I am also concerned for the stability or more correctly, a smooth and if, possible, a government-assisted shift from harmful business to beneficial business.
I had mentioned the necessary assistance for a smooth transition of manufacturers like Philphos from harmful inorganic fertilizers to beneficial organic fertilizers. My point is: Just as we assist an alcoholic towards his total recovery and usefulness, so should we also assist a bad harmful business successfully shift to beneficial business.
Having a brother-in-law manager in Philphos, I can feel that a smooth transition should be done, and in no way should an ax be used to destroy a bad business, especially IF it is the milking cow of the owner. We should exercise caution and mercy for the concerned family owner, not to inverse their kettle, so to speak.
But if the owner has many other sources of livelihood, then, such a bad business may be dismantled without anxiety, but that does not do away with the first option of initiating a transition from bad business to good business, where, in our case with Philphos, I mean from inorganic fertilizer to organic fertilizer manufacturing.
Back to the goldmine called SEED GROWING venture.
Those who are gaining so much and so fast riches from this venture will do everything to protect and expand their new-found source of riches. So, I am advocating the same approach we do with rehabilitating an alcoholic. It should be done with caution and ensuring that the people involved have their needs met even if their income be reduced.
How I wish I would not disturbed their peace. Especially that this man is not selfish in his approach towards those around him.
But I have to say that there are circles or spheres of love. Self is the smallest sphere. Marriage is the next smallest. Family is larger. Then, the extended family, then, the clan or tribe, then the community or village, town, province and country.
Question: Is love as wide as your own nation (they call this love nationalism) enough? My answer: Yes and No. “Yes” if your love for your country does not harm other countries. “No” if such love would harm other countries or races.
Such was the love of Hitler: his love for his country meant to him that he had to destroy other races, other peoples, not belonging to his superior Aryan race. So, it meant the destruction of the yellow, black, brown races. Imagine how many millions would die because of that national love which was and is still limited if you view the whole planet.
So, love must be all-encompassing, all-enclusive. No one must be harmed by your love. Such is the law “You shall love your neighbor as yourself”. “Neighbor” is all-enclusive of all neighbors, e.g., humans or non-humans such as the plants, animals, the land, etc. It can also mean your neighboring town or neighboring country or your neighbor planets, etc.
When Jehovah commanded in the Old Testament “You shall love your neighbor as yourself,” He meant all-encompassing, all-including, universal love, not the narrow, limited, myopic love.
Another example of selfish or limited love was those of Rockefellers and the Gettys who controlled the fossil fuel (gasoline) businesses in their time and made them the richest persons in the world. These were the people who led to suppress other inventions that threatened their own businesses, including the invention of solar-powered vehicles, electric cars, water-powered cars. They made their inventors and/or promoters kept quite.
And so, fossil fuel became a monopoly source of power. Indeed, it made a few very rich – the richest in the world.
But after 200 years of using it, are we, the consumers, the customers, the users, in the benefit end of the line? How about our children? Their future? Now that fossil fuel has produced enough volumes of CFC smoke that displaced portions of the ozone layer and depleted some other parts, so that the ultra-violet rays of the sun have managed to boil the seas and oceans producing whirlwind, tornadoes, hurricane, storms, typhoons, or whatever name you would call it?!
Can we still glorify and seek to imitate the Rockefellers and the Gettys?
Now that the rest of these CFC smoke has formed an enveloping layer around the planet up in the atmosphere below the ozone layer, thus making it thicker for the infrared radiation emitted by the earth (heat from the earth) to easily escape to outer space – read: this new CFC layer is preventing the heat of the earth from escaping to the outer space, thereby, keeping most of heats of the planet including the UVRs that entered our planet via the big ozone holes, thus, making this planet a boiling pot – and 90% of this tragedy called ozone depletion, global warming, climate change is because of burning the fossil fuel (gasoline) – will any one come forward to praise the Rockefellers, the Gettys, the Bushes and all others involved in this harmful business? Anyone?
What about taipan Lucio Tan who has become among the top 3 richest men in the Philippines, thanks or no thanks to his cigarette and liquor conglomerate? Can you praise him? Can you give him the Nobel Prize? Or the Masaysay Award for destroying the lungs and the intestines of our men? Will anyone come forward to hang a medal of “USHER OF HUMAN WELFARE” on the neck of Lucio Tan?
Sure, there is no question about their abilities to manage and lead their businesses. They are good – even excellent – entrepreneurs and managers. They deserve that award.
But business is not all managing or making profits. First and foremost, business is the act – should be – the act of loving your neighbor as yourself.
That is the greatest commandment of God. As Jehovah, He gave that law in the Old Testament. As Jesus, He also gave that to the people in the New Testament era.
Yes, this is not included in making your own Business Plan. Sure, this is not included in the List of Requirements when you apply to the Mayor’s Office a permit to operate a business.
Sure, there is the Marketing Plan or Feasibility Study, the Production Plan or Feasibility Study, the Financial Aspect of the Business Plan or Feasibility Study, the Management aspect and so on and so forth.
But there is no such thing as “LOVE YOUR NEIGHBOR AS YOURSELF’ aspect of the Business Plan/Feasibility Study or Business Permit requirement list.
So, in this sense, our leaders in the government, in the Church, our educators have been bad guide to our business men. Result: our businessmen became misguided or strayed: they engaged business that can harm the people.
Such is the case also with the Seed Growing undertaking.
For although some 200 seed growers are helped by this venture, it also means the “death” of millions of farmers.
By the word ‘death’ I mean both literal and figurative meaning.
Look, this is the danger: BY CONCENTRATING SEEDS GROWING IN A FEW HANDS, THE RISK FOR FAMINE OR HUNGER OR FOOD CRISIS IS MULTIPLIED A MILLION TIMES.
You can easily see that if you understand:
1. How vulnerable the weather is in this time of the so-called climate change, which is no longer a sudden swing between El Niño and La Niña but a marked shift to accelerating hot season in most part of the planet. This is called global warming. Because the ozone layer is holed and depleted more heat is entering, and because on the other hand or at the same time, thick CFC smoke is covering the earth thereby preventing heat from escaping to the outer space, therefore, heat or fire is going to increasing and fry this planet. Of course, it will first melt the thick ice in the Arctic and Antarctica, causing a rise in sea level, giving the impression that there is more water than fire. Then, the hot sun through its ultraviolet rays will continue to boil the oceans producing storms, and hurricanes, whirlwinds, tornadoes. QUESTION: IS THIS ACT OF CONCENTRATING SEED GROWING IN FEWER PLACES SAFE, when an unexpected and unavoidable storm lashes that special area devoted to seed growing? What will happen if these seed growing areas are struck by calamities and their farmers are unable to harvest seeds for their fellow farmers in the rest of the country or even world dependent on them for the seeds that grow? Therefore, SEED GROWING CONCENTRATION + CLIMATE CHANGE-GLOBAL WARMING = DISASTER!!! The name of that disaster? Famine, crop failure, because no longer will the farmers in the rest of the country be able to plant even if they are not affected by the storm!
2. This act of Monsanto and other seed companies and their certified local seed growers run contrary to NATURE’s way – God’s ancient way. What is Nature’s and God’s way as well as law? Genesis 1:11-13, 24-25 say the Law: “LET THE CREATION, PLANT OR ANIMALS, CARRY WITH THEM THE ABILITY TO REPRODUCE THEIR OWN KIND – DO NOT HAMPER THEIR FERTILITY AND ABILITY TO REPRODUCE THEIR OWN KIND.”
See? Wherever the plant happens to grow, its ability or genes to reproduce itself without limit should not be hampered!
Therefore, the genetic engineers or agriculturists who produced the hybrid and the GMO that do not anymore grow when the farmers plant their seeds, are IN GROSS VIOLATION OF GOD’S WILL AND LAW IN GENESIS 1!
Let all violators be warned of the Father’s plan for these last days: “The time has come…for destroying those who destroy the earth.” (Revelation 11:18). God is ordering everyone who listens and wants to be spared from the ongoing and coming calamities: “Come out of her [destructive systems including seed manipulation, seed disabling] My people, if you do not want to be a part of her sins and partake of her plagues” (Revelation 18:4)!
Let all farmers and their educated children be informed. It is very effective if and when every farmer will stop patronizing these hybrid and GMO seeds. WE MUST GO BACK TO NATIVE SEEDS.
DO NOT BE ALLURED BY THE HIGHER YIELD AND BIGGER SIZE. IT IS A DECEPTION. IT DOES NOT MEAN THAT BECAUSE IT IS BIGGER IT IS STRONGER AND MORE HEALTHY. LOOK AT MEN AND THE PIGS. DO YOU THINK THAT OBESE PEOPLE AND FAT PIGS ARE THE HEALTHIER?
IF YOU DON’T THINK SO, WHY DO YOU BLINDLY ACCEPT THEIR DECEPTIVE SIZE AND YIELD AND IMMEDIATELY THROW AWAY YOUR NATIVE SEEDS?
NO, IF THE NATIVE SEEDS ARE SMALLER, REALIZE THAT DESPITE OF THAT, IT IS FERTILE AND REPRODUCTIVE, AND THIS ABILITY TO REPRODUCE OR PRODUCE OFFSIPRIN IS ENOUGH REASON TO TELL YOU THAT IT IS STRONG AND HEALTHY. FOR THE BIGGER SEED OR THE BIGGER CHICKEN BUT WHICH CANNOT REPRODUCE ITSELF, IT MEANS IT IS WEAK! READ: MORE EASY TO DIE!
SO WHY ARE WE PATRONIZING THESE BIG SEEDS? BIG SEEDS BUT ARE LIKE COTTON OR BALLOONS – FULL OF AIR?
There is a worldwide and long famine coming!
As farms failed due to climate change/ global warming/ use of poisonous chemicals and pesticides,
While businesses go bankrupt,
And as unemployment increases,
FAMINE IS THUS AT THE DOOR!
FAMINE
means the alarming decrease or disappearance of food!
We must take back individual control of seeds,
and stop entrusting seed growing
on a few individuals whose farm and whose abilities
are as vulnerable and
as limited as ours!
For what will happen if their farms are singled out by a hurricane,
while our farms are spared?
That will still spell disaster to us!
We will still suffer with them. Why?
Because we depend on them for the seeds to plant!
So, let us stop this dangerous-to-the-majority proposition of concentrating SEED GROWING on a handful of men only to enrich a few multi-national companies, to the detriment of the largest number of poor people in the country and all over the world!
And if yield is the problem, let us not deal with the seeds, but with the soil. Let us wake up now, though almost too late, that the reason why yield has been diminishing is because THE INORGANIC FERTILIZERS AND CHEMICAL PERSTICIDES HAVE DESTROYED THE NATURAL FERTILITY OF THE SOIL WHICH PREVIOUSLY AND ABUNDANTLY SUPPORTED THE LIFE OF OUR ANCESTORS!
It is the inorganic fertilizers and pesticides, not our native seeds, that is the problem. It is the soil that needs to be focused, not modify the seeds!
It is the chemical fertilizers and pesticides that are the culprit.
And it is the altered or modified or disabled seeds that will serve as cover of our own grave!
Hybrid/GMO seeds, because they would replace – read: do away with - our native seeds, will be the final nail of our own coffin!
By patronizing their hybrid-GMO seeds, we are in the process or at the same time, eliminating our native seeds by consuming what were left of them,
and as a result, we do not have our own seeds for planting,
finally, become totally dependent on their seeds.
And when we know longer have our reproducing seeds,
that is the time when we are already held captive inside the cage they purposely made for us.
Have you not realized that these evil companies have been at work to destroy our soil’s natural, built-in fertility so that our soil and plants will need their fertilizers and pesticides?
And are you not still able to see that, after having done with the soil,
they are now working to remove all native seeds from us,
so that we will become totally dependent on their seeds?
We are then their slaves!
If we protest, then, all they have to do is THREATEN TO STOP THE SUPPLY OF THEIR SEEDS.
IF THEY WANT TO KILL US, ALL THEY HAVE TO DO IS INJECT POISONS INSIDE THE SEEDS THAT WE WILL BUY FROM THEM.
LIKE WHAT THEY ARE ALREADY DOING WITH Bt CORN, A GMO SEED. Bt IS A POISONOUS BACTERIUM;
Bt IS A BACTERIUM THAT PRODUCES POISON.
SINCE THIS Bt IS INJECTED INTO THE CORN SEEDS, THE SEEDS THEREFORE CONTAIN THE POISON.
IT IS INTENDED TO POISON THE WORM CALLED CORN BORER,
BUT WHAT IS LITTLE DOSE FOR HUMANS WILL EVENTUALLY SUM UP AFTER CONSUMING SO MANY CORN GRITS OR CORN SEEDS
THAT THE ACCUMULATED POISON WILL BE ENOUGH TO KILL US!
THESE ARE THE ADDITIONAL DANGERS I DID NOT MENTION ABOVE!
What I had mentioned is that seed is too crucial a need especially in this time of fragile weather, unreliable climate change, intensifying global warming –
Yes, growing seed for planting is too crucial a task to be entrusted to a few people who do not have supernatural powers to ensure their plantations will be spared from calamities or crop failure.
THEREFORE,
I do not advice anyone to favor the gains of a few SEED GROWERS
in exchange for the dangers of the many.
I do not favor that seed growing will be entrusted to a select few,
Where it is much wiser, cheaper, safer and more sustainable if this God-given technology of seed growing be left as is with every farmer!
The government’s promotion and support of seed growing,
which is at the same time an act of destruction of the native seeds among the farmers, is an act of a whore: they are paid and bribed by big seed companies like Monsanto!
Our government officials have accepted money from Monsanto et al and has betrayed us, the Filipino people, who have supported their life and families - us who gave them their “bread and butter”.
They scorn our “bread and butter” (small salaries) in favor of their big ‘commissions’ from the big Businessmen!
Now, because Monsanto et al has been able to charge real big, big prices on certified hybrid/GMO seeds, our government officials especially those in the Department of Agriculture have become beneficiaries – read: sharers of commissions – from the sale of hybrid/GMO seeds!
This is bribery! This is treachery! This is treason!
As evil as those mayors and governors receiving no less than P40,000.00 a month from drug lords and another P40,000.00 from the gambling lord
In contrast to the mere P25,000.00 they are receiving from the people as their salary.
THEREFORE,
Let us sharpen our brain to know who these men are whom
we have elected because they gave us vote-money!
And we should know that those vote-money that they distributed to anyone of us, who sold our votes,
came from the drug lords and gambling lords
and now, from big companies like Monsanto!
Just as I had urged many of you and your children to stop buying their SHABUS and marijuana and stop all forms of gambling
so that their drug and gambling businesses would die a natural death, when there would be no more customer,
I also call upon you:
STOP BUYING THEIR HYBRID AND GMO SEEDS!
While there is yet time.
KEEP THE NATIVE SEEDS ALIVE!
This should be our battle cry:
“PRESERVE THE NATIVE SEEDS!
PROTECT THE NATIVE SEEDS!”
DO NOT BUY – DO NOT USE –
DO NOT PATRONIZE THEIR HYBRID AND GMO SEEDS.
PATRONIZE GOD’S SEEDS –
THE SEEDS THAT HE GAVE TO YOUR ANCESTORS.
THE SEEDS THAT WILL GERMINATE WHEN YOU PLANT THEM.
THE SEEDS THAT WILL PRODUCE SEEDS THAT WILL GERMINATE.
THE SEEDS THAT ARE FREE.
FREE FROM HIGH COST.
FREE FROM CHEMICALS.
FREE FROM POISONS.
FREE FROM CANCERS.
FREE FROM DANGERS!
FREE FROM DEATH!
Finally, and this can be the least point of this discourse, I say:
“Democracy should lead towards greater freedom and independence of the people.
But being hog-tied and no longer able to produce (a) our own fertilizers and pesticides; (b) our own feeds; (c) our own breed of pig, chicken, etc., that is, our own piglets, our own chicks, etc.,
and (d) our own seeds of corn, rice, vegetables, fruits –
do you think it is in line with the intent of democracy?
Is that decentralization or centralization?
Is that going towards greater autonomy or
to being more and more controlled by a central government
or a few people whose purpose is dubious?
Is that towards federalism or toward authoritarianism?
Is that more freedom or losing freedom?”
Think wisely my dear brothers and countrymen,
MY FELLOW HUSBANDS AND FATHERS,
ON US DEPEND THE LIVES OF OUR WIVES AND CHILDREN, AND OUR CHILDREN’S CHILDREN!
THIMK because it is not only for your safety, health, life and liberty but also for the future protection and welfare of your children!
I do not know how can I emphasize it more effectively.
But you can contact us at:
Email address: cocoy777@yahoo.com
Cell phone No.: 0910-9158-369
REMEMBER: WE WILL FIGHT FOR OUR FREEDOM AND SALVATION WITH CHRIST IN OUR MIDST AND IN FRONT OF THE BATTLE LINE. WE WILL NOT FIGHT ALONE AS OTHERS DO WHO LET THE LORD BE OUT OF THE BATTLE. NO, HE WILL FIGHT OUR BATTLE. HE WILL HELP US FIGHT OUR BATTLE. OUR BATTLE AGAINST 666!
“WITH GOD ALL THINGS WILL BE POSSIBLE” BUT “WITHOUT GOD, WE CAN DO NOTHING”!
***
If you want to acquire a copy of our ebook on FAMINE, just email us your request. It is absolutely written for free distribution for public service, and as an of brotherly love for the fellowman. This book will prove to you that FAMINE is at the door, that FAMINE is inevitable, that we can not do anything now to prevent it, and that we can however do some things to lessen its impact into our lives and to survive it. Remember: FAMINE means NO MORE FOOD IN THE STORE AND IN YOUR TABLE, EVEN IF YOU STILL SOME MONEY OR GOLD LEFT!
DATE: August 13, 2009
TO: Concerned Leaders & Farmers
FROM: Arnulfo Yu Laniba,
Agape Foundation (Agasoft)
RE: The Danger of Monopolizing/Centralization of Seed Production
Dear Gentlemen:
I have with me two feature articles, one is published in Agriculture Magazine, January 2009 issue, entitled “Certified Rice Seeds Made this Couple Rich.”
Since our purpose is not to embarrass nor to destroy other businessman or a fellowman, I do not want to mention names, but I want to give you an idea how profitable this business is.
This couple started with 6 hectares planting certified seeds. It is called “certified seeds” because either or both the government and multi-national seeds companies like Monsanto, East West, and others have certified their seeds for commercial sale and distribution.
After 13 years of operation, this couple has now 70 hectares devoted to grow 17,500 bags (40 kilos per bag) of certified seeds. At P1,200.00 per bag, the couple has a gross sale of P 21,000,000.00 a year! Truly, this has really become a ‘goldmine’ as they say.
It is already so endeared to the concerned owner of such goldmine that like other big-time businesses including the illegal drugs, they owner would be willing to hire gunmen to assassinate anyone who would disturb their peace, or hamper their smooth operation.
It is not my purpose to make enemies or to endanger my livelihood and family. For being poor, I am physically vulnerable to hired guns. Spiritually, or concerning my soul, that is a totally different matter. Yet, we still feel concerned about our families left widowed and orphaned when you, as the father of the family, suddenly “disappeared” like what happened to Jonas Burgos whose only “crime” was his leading the poor farmers to abandon inorganic farming and shift to organic farming, something which disturbs – read: threatens – the profitable businesses of inorganic fertilizers and chemical pesticides. Assisted by gullible soldiers who have no other conscience than the salary they got from the government instead of being concerned for the plight of their fellow poor, the big companies were behind the disappearance of Jonas Burgos.
But more than this, my concern also goes beyond the welfare of the farmers and consumers. I am also concerned for the stability or more correctly, a smooth and if, possible, a government-assisted shift from harmful business to beneficial business.
I had mentioned the necessary assistance for a smooth transition of manufacturers like Philphos from harmful inorganic fertilizers to beneficial organic fertilizers. My point is: Just as we assist an alcoholic towards his total recovery and usefulness, so should we also assist a bad harmful business successfully shift to beneficial business.
Having a brother-in-law manager in Philphos, I can feel that a smooth transition should be done, and in no way should an ax be used to destroy a bad business, especially IF it is the milking cow of the owner. We should exercise caution and mercy for the concerned family owner, not to inverse their kettle, so to speak.
But if the owner has many other sources of livelihood, then, such a bad business may be dismantled without anxiety, but that does not do away with the first option of initiating a transition from bad business to good business, where, in our case with Philphos, I mean from inorganic fertilizer to organic fertilizer manufacturing.
Back to the goldmine called SEED GROWING venture.
Those who are gaining so much and so fast riches from this venture will do everything to protect and expand their new-found source of riches. So, I am advocating the same approach we do with rehabilitating an alcoholic. It should be done with caution and ensuring that the people involved have their needs met even if their income be reduced.
How I wish I would not disturbed their peace. Especially that this man is not selfish in his approach towards those around him.
But I have to say that there are circles or spheres of love. Self is the smallest sphere. Marriage is the next smallest. Family is larger. Then, the extended family, then, the clan or tribe, then the community or village, town, province and country.
Question: Is love as wide as your own nation (they call this love nationalism) enough? My answer: Yes and No. “Yes” if your love for your country does not harm other countries. “No” if such love would harm other countries or races.
Such was the love of Hitler: his love for his country meant to him that he had to destroy other races, other peoples, not belonging to his superior Aryan race. So, it meant the destruction of the yellow, black, brown races. Imagine how many millions would die because of that national love which was and is still limited if you view the whole planet.
So, love must be all-encompassing, all-enclusive. No one must be harmed by your love. Such is the law “You shall love your neighbor as yourself”. “Neighbor” is all-enclusive of all neighbors, e.g., humans or non-humans such as the plants, animals, the land, etc. It can also mean your neighboring town or neighboring country or your neighbor planets, etc.
When Jehovah commanded in the Old Testament “You shall love your neighbor as yourself,” He meant all-encompassing, all-including, universal love, not the narrow, limited, myopic love.
Another example of selfish or limited love was those of Rockefellers and the Gettys who controlled the fossil fuel (gasoline) businesses in their time and made them the richest persons in the world. These were the people who led to suppress other inventions that threatened their own businesses, including the invention of solar-powered vehicles, electric cars, water-powered cars. They made their inventors and/or promoters kept quite.
And so, fossil fuel became a monopoly source of power. Indeed, it made a few very rich – the richest in the world.
But after 200 years of using it, are we, the consumers, the customers, the users, in the benefit end of the line? How about our children? Their future? Now that fossil fuel has produced enough volumes of CFC smoke that displaced portions of the ozone layer and depleted some other parts, so that the ultra-violet rays of the sun have managed to boil the seas and oceans producing whirlwind, tornadoes, hurricane, storms, typhoons, or whatever name you would call it?!
Can we still glorify and seek to imitate the Rockefellers and the Gettys?
Now that the rest of these CFC smoke has formed an enveloping layer around the planet up in the atmosphere below the ozone layer, thus making it thicker for the infrared radiation emitted by the earth (heat from the earth) to easily escape to outer space – read: this new CFC layer is preventing the heat of the earth from escaping to the outer space, thereby, keeping most of heats of the planet including the UVRs that entered our planet via the big ozone holes, thus, making this planet a boiling pot – and 90% of this tragedy called ozone depletion, global warming, climate change is because of burning the fossil fuel (gasoline) – will any one come forward to praise the Rockefellers, the Gettys, the Bushes and all others involved in this harmful business? Anyone?
What about taipan Lucio Tan who has become among the top 3 richest men in the Philippines, thanks or no thanks to his cigarette and liquor conglomerate? Can you praise him? Can you give him the Nobel Prize? Or the Masaysay Award for destroying the lungs and the intestines of our men? Will anyone come forward to hang a medal of “USHER OF HUMAN WELFARE” on the neck of Lucio Tan?
Sure, there is no question about their abilities to manage and lead their businesses. They are good – even excellent – entrepreneurs and managers. They deserve that award.
But business is not all managing or making profits. First and foremost, business is the act – should be – the act of loving your neighbor as yourself.
That is the greatest commandment of God. As Jehovah, He gave that law in the Old Testament. As Jesus, He also gave that to the people in the New Testament era.
Yes, this is not included in making your own Business Plan. Sure, this is not included in the List of Requirements when you apply to the Mayor’s Office a permit to operate a business.
Sure, there is the Marketing Plan or Feasibility Study, the Production Plan or Feasibility Study, the Financial Aspect of the Business Plan or Feasibility Study, the Management aspect and so on and so forth.
But there is no such thing as “LOVE YOUR NEIGHBOR AS YOURSELF’ aspect of the Business Plan/Feasibility Study or Business Permit requirement list.
So, in this sense, our leaders in the government, in the Church, our educators have been bad guide to our business men. Result: our businessmen became misguided or strayed: they engaged business that can harm the people.
Such is the case also with the Seed Growing undertaking.
For although some 200 seed growers are helped by this venture, it also means the “death” of millions of farmers.
By the word ‘death’ I mean both literal and figurative meaning.
Look, this is the danger: BY CONCENTRATING SEEDS GROWING IN A FEW HANDS, THE RISK FOR FAMINE OR HUNGER OR FOOD CRISIS IS MULTIPLIED A MILLION TIMES.
You can easily see that if you understand:
1. How vulnerable the weather is in this time of the so-called climate change, which is no longer a sudden swing between El Niño and La Niña but a marked shift to accelerating hot season in most part of the planet. This is called global warming. Because the ozone layer is holed and depleted more heat is entering, and because on the other hand or at the same time, thick CFC smoke is covering the earth thereby preventing heat from escaping to the outer space, therefore, heat or fire is going to increasing and fry this planet. Of course, it will first melt the thick ice in the Arctic and Antarctica, causing a rise in sea level, giving the impression that there is more water than fire. Then, the hot sun through its ultraviolet rays will continue to boil the oceans producing storms, and hurricanes, whirlwinds, tornadoes. QUESTION: IS THIS ACT OF CONCENTRATING SEED GROWING IN FEWER PLACES SAFE, when an unexpected and unavoidable storm lashes that special area devoted to seed growing? What will happen if these seed growing areas are struck by calamities and their farmers are unable to harvest seeds for their fellow farmers in the rest of the country or even world dependent on them for the seeds that grow? Therefore, SEED GROWING CONCENTRATION + CLIMATE CHANGE-GLOBAL WARMING = DISASTER!!! The name of that disaster? Famine, crop failure, because no longer will the farmers in the rest of the country be able to plant even if they are not affected by the storm!
2. This act of Monsanto and other seed companies and their certified local seed growers run contrary to NATURE’s way – God’s ancient way. What is Nature’s and God’s way as well as law? Genesis 1:11-13, 24-25 say the Law: “LET THE CREATION, PLANT OR ANIMALS, CARRY WITH THEM THE ABILITY TO REPRODUCE THEIR OWN KIND – DO NOT HAMPER THEIR FERTILITY AND ABILITY TO REPRODUCE THEIR OWN KIND.”
See? Wherever the plant happens to grow, its ability or genes to reproduce itself without limit should not be hampered!
Therefore, the genetic engineers or agriculturists who produced the hybrid and the GMO that do not anymore grow when the farmers plant their seeds, are IN GROSS VIOLATION OF GOD’S WILL AND LAW IN GENESIS 1!
Let all violators be warned of the Father’s plan for these last days: “The time has come…for destroying those who destroy the earth.” (Revelation 11:18). God is ordering everyone who listens and wants to be spared from the ongoing and coming calamities: “Come out of her [destructive systems including seed manipulation, seed disabling] My people, if you do not want to be a part of her sins and partake of her plagues” (Revelation 18:4)!
Let all farmers and their educated children be informed. It is very effective if and when every farmer will stop patronizing these hybrid and GMO seeds. WE MUST GO BACK TO NATIVE SEEDS.
DO NOT BE ALLURED BY THE HIGHER YIELD AND BIGGER SIZE. IT IS A DECEPTION. IT DOES NOT MEAN THAT BECAUSE IT IS BIGGER IT IS STRONGER AND MORE HEALTHY. LOOK AT MEN AND THE PIGS. DO YOU THINK THAT OBESE PEOPLE AND FAT PIGS ARE THE HEALTHIER?
IF YOU DON’T THINK SO, WHY DO YOU BLINDLY ACCEPT THEIR DECEPTIVE SIZE AND YIELD AND IMMEDIATELY THROW AWAY YOUR NATIVE SEEDS?
NO, IF THE NATIVE SEEDS ARE SMALLER, REALIZE THAT DESPITE OF THAT, IT IS FERTILE AND REPRODUCTIVE, AND THIS ABILITY TO REPRODUCE OR PRODUCE OFFSIPRIN IS ENOUGH REASON TO TELL YOU THAT IT IS STRONG AND HEALTHY. FOR THE BIGGER SEED OR THE BIGGER CHICKEN BUT WHICH CANNOT REPRODUCE ITSELF, IT MEANS IT IS WEAK! READ: MORE EASY TO DIE!
SO WHY ARE WE PATRONIZING THESE BIG SEEDS? BIG SEEDS BUT ARE LIKE COTTON OR BALLOONS – FULL OF AIR?
There is a worldwide and long famine coming!
As farms failed due to climate change/ global warming/ use of poisonous chemicals and pesticides,
While businesses go bankrupt,
And as unemployment increases,
FAMINE IS THUS AT THE DOOR!
FAMINE
means the alarming decrease or disappearance of food!
We must take back individual control of seeds,
and stop entrusting seed growing
on a few individuals whose farm and whose abilities
are as vulnerable and
as limited as ours!
For what will happen if their farms are singled out by a hurricane,
while our farms are spared?
That will still spell disaster to us!
We will still suffer with them. Why?
Because we depend on them for the seeds to plant!
So, let us stop this dangerous-to-the-majority proposition of concentrating SEED GROWING on a handful of men only to enrich a few multi-national companies, to the detriment of the largest number of poor people in the country and all over the world!
And if yield is the problem, let us not deal with the seeds, but with the soil. Let us wake up now, though almost too late, that the reason why yield has been diminishing is because THE INORGANIC FERTILIZERS AND CHEMICAL PERSTICIDES HAVE DESTROYED THE NATURAL FERTILITY OF THE SOIL WHICH PREVIOUSLY AND ABUNDANTLY SUPPORTED THE LIFE OF OUR ANCESTORS!
It is the inorganic fertilizers and pesticides, not our native seeds, that is the problem. It is the soil that needs to be focused, not modify the seeds!
It is the chemical fertilizers and pesticides that are the culprit.
And it is the altered or modified or disabled seeds that will serve as cover of our own grave!
Hybrid/GMO seeds, because they would replace – read: do away with - our native seeds, will be the final nail of our own coffin!
By patronizing their hybrid-GMO seeds, we are in the process or at the same time, eliminating our native seeds by consuming what were left of them,
and as a result, we do not have our own seeds for planting,
finally, become totally dependent on their seeds.
And when we know longer have our reproducing seeds,
that is the time when we are already held captive inside the cage they purposely made for us.
Have you not realized that these evil companies have been at work to destroy our soil’s natural, built-in fertility so that our soil and plants will need their fertilizers and pesticides?
And are you not still able to see that, after having done with the soil,
they are now working to remove all native seeds from us,
so that we will become totally dependent on their seeds?
We are then their slaves!
If we protest, then, all they have to do is THREATEN TO STOP THE SUPPLY OF THEIR SEEDS.
IF THEY WANT TO KILL US, ALL THEY HAVE TO DO IS INJECT POISONS INSIDE THE SEEDS THAT WE WILL BUY FROM THEM.
LIKE WHAT THEY ARE ALREADY DOING WITH Bt CORN, A GMO SEED. Bt IS A POISONOUS BACTERIUM;
Bt IS A BACTERIUM THAT PRODUCES POISON.
SINCE THIS Bt IS INJECTED INTO THE CORN SEEDS, THE SEEDS THEREFORE CONTAIN THE POISON.
IT IS INTENDED TO POISON THE WORM CALLED CORN BORER,
BUT WHAT IS LITTLE DOSE FOR HUMANS WILL EVENTUALLY SUM UP AFTER CONSUMING SO MANY CORN GRITS OR CORN SEEDS
THAT THE ACCUMULATED POISON WILL BE ENOUGH TO KILL US!
THESE ARE THE ADDITIONAL DANGERS I DID NOT MENTION ABOVE!
What I had mentioned is that seed is too crucial a need especially in this time of fragile weather, unreliable climate change, intensifying global warming –
Yes, growing seed for planting is too crucial a task to be entrusted to a few people who do not have supernatural powers to ensure their plantations will be spared from calamities or crop failure.
THEREFORE,
I do not advice anyone to favor the gains of a few SEED GROWERS
in exchange for the dangers of the many.
I do not favor that seed growing will be entrusted to a select few,
Where it is much wiser, cheaper, safer and more sustainable if this God-given technology of seed growing be left as is with every farmer!
The government’s promotion and support of seed growing,
which is at the same time an act of destruction of the native seeds among the farmers, is an act of a whore: they are paid and bribed by big seed companies like Monsanto!
Our government officials have accepted money from Monsanto et al and has betrayed us, the Filipino people, who have supported their life and families - us who gave them their “bread and butter”.
They scorn our “bread and butter” (small salaries) in favor of their big ‘commissions’ from the big Businessmen!
Now, because Monsanto et al has been able to charge real big, big prices on certified hybrid/GMO seeds, our government officials especially those in the Department of Agriculture have become beneficiaries – read: sharers of commissions – from the sale of hybrid/GMO seeds!
This is bribery! This is treachery! This is treason!
As evil as those mayors and governors receiving no less than P40,000.00 a month from drug lords and another P40,000.00 from the gambling lord
In contrast to the mere P25,000.00 they are receiving from the people as their salary.
THEREFORE,
Let us sharpen our brain to know who these men are whom
we have elected because they gave us vote-money!
And we should know that those vote-money that they distributed to anyone of us, who sold our votes,
came from the drug lords and gambling lords
and now, from big companies like Monsanto!
Just as I had urged many of you and your children to stop buying their SHABUS and marijuana and stop all forms of gambling
so that their drug and gambling businesses would die a natural death, when there would be no more customer,
I also call upon you:
STOP BUYING THEIR HYBRID AND GMO SEEDS!
While there is yet time.
KEEP THE NATIVE SEEDS ALIVE!
This should be our battle cry:
“PRESERVE THE NATIVE SEEDS!
PROTECT THE NATIVE SEEDS!”
DO NOT BUY – DO NOT USE –
DO NOT PATRONIZE THEIR HYBRID AND GMO SEEDS.
PATRONIZE GOD’S SEEDS –
THE SEEDS THAT HE GAVE TO YOUR ANCESTORS.
THE SEEDS THAT WILL GERMINATE WHEN YOU PLANT THEM.
THE SEEDS THAT WILL PRODUCE SEEDS THAT WILL GERMINATE.
THE SEEDS THAT ARE FREE.
FREE FROM HIGH COST.
FREE FROM CHEMICALS.
FREE FROM POISONS.
FREE FROM CANCERS.
FREE FROM DANGERS!
FREE FROM DEATH!
Finally, and this can be the least point of this discourse, I say:
“Democracy should lead towards greater freedom and independence of the people.
But being hog-tied and no longer able to produce (a) our own fertilizers and pesticides; (b) our own feeds; (c) our own breed of pig, chicken, etc., that is, our own piglets, our own chicks, etc.,
and (d) our own seeds of corn, rice, vegetables, fruits –
do you think it is in line with the intent of democracy?
Is that decentralization or centralization?
Is that going towards greater autonomy or
to being more and more controlled by a central government
or a few people whose purpose is dubious?
Is that towards federalism or toward authoritarianism?
Is that more freedom or losing freedom?”
Think wisely my dear brothers and countrymen,
MY FELLOW HUSBANDS AND FATHERS,
ON US DEPEND THE LIVES OF OUR WIVES AND CHILDREN, AND OUR CHILDREN’S CHILDREN!
THIMK because it is not only for your safety, health, life and liberty but also for the future protection and welfare of your children!
I do not know how can I emphasize it more effectively.
But you can contact us at:
Email address: cocoy777@yahoo.com
Cell phone No.: 0910-9158-369
REMEMBER: WE WILL FIGHT FOR OUR FREEDOM AND SALVATION WITH CHRIST IN OUR MIDST AND IN FRONT OF THE BATTLE LINE. WE WILL NOT FIGHT ALONE AS OTHERS DO WHO LET THE LORD BE OUT OF THE BATTLE. NO, HE WILL FIGHT OUR BATTLE. HE WILL HELP US FIGHT OUR BATTLE. OUR BATTLE AGAINST 666!
“WITH GOD ALL THINGS WILL BE POSSIBLE” BUT “WITHOUT GOD, WE CAN DO NOTHING”!
***
If you want to acquire a copy of our ebook on FAMINE, just email us your request. It is absolutely written for free distribution for public service, and as an of brotherly love for the fellowman. This book will prove to you that FAMINE is at the door, that FAMINE is inevitable, that we can not do anything now to prevent it, and that we can however do some things to lessen its impact into our lives and to survive it. Remember: FAMINE means NO MORE FOOD IN THE STORE AND IN YOUR TABLE, EVEN IF YOU STILL SOME MONEY OR GOLD LEFT!
Monday, March 9, 2009
Evil attempt to destroy all seeds
Evil attempt to destroy all seeds
Monday, March 9, 2009 5:41 PM
From: Franky Corne"
To: "Cocoy Laniba"
Monsanto's Many Attempts to Destroy All Seeds but Their Own Some say that if farmers don’t want problems from Monsanto, they simply shouldn’t buy Monsanto’s GMO seeds. But it isn’t quite that simple. Monsanto contaminates the fields, trespasses onto the land taking samples, and then sues, saying they own the crop.
Meanwhile, Monsanto is taking many other steps to keep farmers and everyone else from having any access at all to buying, collecting, and saving of normal seeds:
1. They’ve bought up the seed companies across the Midwest.
2. They’ve written Monsanto seed laws and gotten legislators to put them through, that make cleaning, collecting and storing of seeds so onerous in terms of fees and paperwork that having normal seed becomes almost impossible.
3. Monsanto is pushing laws that ensure farmers and citizens can’t block the planting of GMO crops even if they can contaminate other crops.
4. There are Monsanto regulations buried in the FDA rules that make a farmer’s seed cleaning equipment illegal because it’s now considered a “source of seed contamination.”
Monsanto has sued more than 1,500 farmers whose fields had simply been contaminated by GM crops.
Cocoy's Remarks: We've got to be in our Father's business: fearless dispersal of the truth! Read Matthew 10 for His guidelines to fearlessly trumpet what we have heard from Him in secret. And to do so out of love, without thought of making profit.
Monday, March 9, 2009 5:41 PM
From: Franky Corne"
To: "Cocoy Laniba"
Meanwhile, Monsanto is taking many other steps to keep farmers and everyone else from having any access at all to buying, collecting, and saving of normal seeds:
1. They’ve bought up the seed companies across the Midwest.
2. They’ve written Monsanto seed laws and gotten legislators to put them through, that make cleaning, collecting and storing of seeds so onerous in terms of fees and paperwork that having normal seed becomes almost impossible.
3. Monsanto is pushing laws that ensure farmers and citizens can’t block the planting of GMO crops even if they can contaminate other crops.
4. There are Monsanto regulations buried in the FDA rules that make a farmer’s seed cleaning equipment illegal because it’s now considered a “source of seed contamination.”
Monsanto has sued more than 1,500 farmers whose fields had simply been contaminated by GM crops.
Cocoy's Remarks: We've got to be in our Father's business: fearless dispersal of the truth! Read Matthew 10 for His guidelines to fearlessly trumpet what we have heard from Him in secret. And to do so out of love, without thought of making profit.
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
Organic Gardening
Organic Gardening
Organic Gardening in Home Organic Gardens
Home organic gardens have become increasingly popular over the last several years. Whether we know it or not, many of us already practice forms of organic gardening. We just don't give it any thought. We do it for our health, and the health of the environment.
Organic gardening is the practice of growing vegetables, herbs and fruits using only things found in nature. Absolutely no man-made chemicals are used. Although we usually do not think of it, organic gardening concepts also apply to the world of flowers, trees, shrubs, and even your lawn. It is gardening without harmful and artificial chemicals, or other products not naturally found in nature. Commonly today, potentially harmful chemicals and non-natural products are used for fertilizing, and for control of insects, disease, and weeds.
Did you Know? Organic food sales are over $10Billion! It's no small cottage industry.
If you are not completely sold on organic gardening, you can still bring some of it's benefits to yourself, your family, and the environment by applying those organic concepts that work best for you and your crop. Any organic methods that you employ will benefit you and the environment.
Certified Organic- In order to be qualified as "Certified Organic" for the marketplace, produce must be grown under strict USDA guidelines. Everything from the seed to fertilizers and soil must be organic, natural ingredients. You must apply for the certification. Federal inspectors will review your application and perform an inspection. See the path of organic produce takes to reach your dinner table.
________________________________________
Components of Organic Gardening:
Your organic gardening program consists of the following components:
• Organic garden seeds - the all important starting point
• Organic garden soil and soil amendments
• Organic fertilizers
• Organic insect repellents/insect control
• Organic disease control
• Beneficial Insects
________________________________________
In the News:
The USDA has standardized rules for Organic food.
The USDA States uniform standards provide:
• A single national standard replacing individual state and private standards
• Consistent and accurate labeling to alleviate consumer confusion
• Define uniform practices, methods and substances for for producing organic crops.
• Prohibits the use of genetic engineering, irradiation and sewage sludge.
• Improve exports through a single standard that is more readily understood in other countries.
For more information, see the USDA's pages on the National Organic Program
________________________________________
Organic Tips:
** Place fruits like pumpkin and squash on a bed of sand. Snails and slugs do not like sand and will not cross over it. You will not need to use slug and snail poisons.
** Use Companion plants that repel insects. See Companion Plants
________________________________________
The major benefits of organic gardening are many:
• Less harmful chemicals on the food you and your family may eat. This is reason enough.
• Less harm to the environment
• Cost savings as alternate sources can save you money
• You will feel better knowing you are doing your part.
________________________________________
Ways we Practice Organic Gardening Today:
Organic Gardening takes many forms. It includes:
• Use compost for mulch and fertilizer.
• Use only plant matter for mulching.....no plastics. Leaves and straw work great.
• Use manures for fertilizer in place of chemical fertilizer.
• Learning and applying proper techniques to grow healthy plants and avoid plant disease.
• Acquiring natural insect enemies, such as Ladybugs for aphids and preying mantis, to control insect problems.
• Using natural insecticides and deterrents such as garlic or soap sprays to deter insects. No insecticides or pesticides.
• Use natural insect predators like Preying Mantis and Ladybugs. If they do not exist in your area, companies sell them.
• Use a little extra muscle power to control weeds versus getting out the weed killer.
• A willingness to give up a little portion of your crop to the bugs in order to produce and consume healthier food for you and your family.
• Conserve and recycle. By using natural materials like manure, composted weeds and kitchen scraps we are using organic materials and reducing what goes into the waste stream.
• Organic Garden Seeds
• In nature, it all begins with a seed. In organic gardening, it all begins with organic garden seeds. It's the all important starting point for home organic gardens and commercial organic farming. While the focus us upon organic vegetable seeds, organic herb seeds are quite popular, too.
• Why use organic seeds? The use of chemicals can alter the genetic makeup of seeds. The resulting plant and vegetables can be affected. The USDA requires it for commercial growers in order to be "certified organic" produce.
• ________________________________________
• Organic Vegetable Seeds - There's no shortage of organic garden seeds for your vegetable garden. You can get organic seeds for the most popular vegetables, from tomatoes, peppers, and pumpkins, to lettuce and onions. You can also find them for mustard, okra, and much more!
•
• Buy Certified Organic Vegetable Seeds now
• Make certain the organic vegetable seed you are buying is certified organic. You will be paying a little extra for the seeds, and you want to be sure they are indeed organic.
• ________________________________________
• Organic Herb Seeds - There are organic herb seeds for all of your favorite herbs. There's also an organic Lavender seed. Yes, Lavender is edible and many recipes exist.
•
Organic Garden Soil and Organic Soil Amendments
A healthy, home organic garden starts with healthy, natural, virgin soil. The site you select for your organic garden should not have been previously used for a garden where chemical fertilizers, or pesticides were previously used. It should also not be the site of a treated lawn, where chemicals were previously applied.
We encourage any movement towards organic gardening practices. If you've used chemicals in the past, and would like to practice organic gardening, you certainly can continue to use your existing garden. Chemicals you've used in the past, will slowly breakdown and leach out of the soil. This may take time. But, each year your garden will become healthier.
Important Note: If you use chemicals on your lawn, the garden should not be downhill of the lawn. Harmful chemicals can be carried downhill with ground water and into your garden.
Raised garden beds are a great place for your organic gardens.
The raised bed frame sits atop the ground. You then fill it with virgin soil and soil amendments. You control what goes into it..... natural organic soil and materials. Gardeners with raised bed frames, will often empty the soil each fall and replenish it with fresh, rich, natural ingredients for great gardens every year.
More on Raised Garden Beds
Browse/Buy Raised Garden Bed Frames
Common organic soil amendments include:
• Compost
• Leaves in the fall.
• Peat moss and spaghnum moss
• Grass clippings (from untreated lawns only)
• Manures
• Natural Mulches - don't use plastic or other artificial mulch
*************************************************************************************
Organic Gardening Fertilizers
A major component of a successful organic garden, is the fertilizers you use. Like everything else in the world of organic gardening, fertilizers must be composed of all natural ingredients. If you are an organic purist, or will be growing produce for the organic marketplace, make certain that the label on any fertilizers you use state "Certified Organic". We will focus upon organic gardening in the home market, where the "Certified Organic" tag is not a requirement.
Many home gardeners do not realize the broad range of organic products available to them. It is likely that you are already using one or more of these products.
Here are some of the most common organic fertilizers:
• Manure -rich in a wide range of plant nutrients, it also adds to soil structure.
• Seaweed & Kelp - provides nutrients and trace minerals, stimulates root growth.
• Fish Emulsion - rich in nutrients. Gardeners have used fish remains for hundreds of years, with great success.
• Compost - a well recognized natural fertilizer and soil amendment.
• Compost Tea - liquid runoff from the composting process. Use it to replace chemical liquid fertilizers for home gardens. Put some on your houseplants, too.
• Cover crops - after your gardening is done for the season, grow annual rye grass and other annual crops. Till plants into the soil in the spring to replenish nitrogen and other minerals to your soil.
• Worm Castings - worms ingest plant matter and excrete a mineral rich soil additive.
• Bat Guano - a rich manure that gardeners covet for great crops.
• Epsom Salts- commonly used to provide magnesium and sulfur to the soil. Promotes bushier growth and more flowers.
• Molasses and Honey - in small amounts to feed microorganisms in the soil.
• Fish Fertilizer - High in nutrients, micro-nutrients and minerals
• Seaweed Fertilizer- packed with major and minor nutrients and amino acids, organic gardeners use this to stimulate plant growth.
***********************************************************************************
Organic Insect Repellents and Insect Controls
Your organic gardening program will need to address insect control methods. Those nasty, harsh chemicals that effectively kill every insect around is not part of your arsenal. Chemical insecticides can have long term harmful effect on you and the environment.
Fortunately, there is a wide range of organic insect control methods. You may want to experiment with a variety of insect control methods to see which works best for you and your plants.
________________________________________
Organic Insect Control can take a number of forms:
Insect Repellents
Insect repellents "repel" insects. Most organic repellents do not kill the insects. Organic repellents may contain a variety of agents. The most common repellents are garlic based. Many insects do not like the oil of garlic, and will fly off in search of other foods.
Frequent application of organic repellents is often needed, especially after heavy rains.
Make your own organic insect repellent sprays.
Companion plants
There are two types of companion plants: those that compliment the nutrient needs of other plants, and those that insects do not like. Plants that insects do not like, make great companions to other plants in your organic garden. Planting onions and garlic amid your organic vegetables, will repel a variety of insects. In addition to providing insect protection, you can harvest the onions and garlic, too. Marigolds are another great companion plant.
A companion plant can also be one that insects like. In South America, coffee growers plant banana trees around the coffee crops. Insects like the sweet, banana plants and fruit, much more than coffee plants.
Note: Plants that repel insects often make good components of insect repellent sprays.
More on Companion plants
Beneficial Insects
One way to get harmful insects out of your organic garden is to introduce and promote beneficial insects into your garden. The most well known beneficial insects are lady bugs and praying mantis. If you've got aphids, the lady bugs will thrive. If you have a variety of insects, the praying mantis will find ample hunting.
You can actually purchase these beneficial insects, and introduce them to your yard or garden.
Did you Know? They say Lady bugs bring good luck. However, not if you are an aphid.
Insect Barriers
A fine mesh insect netting will keep even small insects out of your garden. The fine mesh keeps insects out, yet lets sunlight, air and moisture in. The amount of sunlight entering and reaching your plants is dependent upon how fine the mesh is.
There is a wide range of insect an pest netting. A 1/4" to 3'8" mesh may be effective against Cicada and grasshopper invasions. They are very effective against these pests, some larger sized beetles, and a few other very large insects.
Buy/browse pest netting now.
For the vast majority of insects, a finer meshed insect netting is required.
Pest and insect netting can be very effective against flying and crawling (above ground) insects. But, they will not deter insects that live in the soil.
***********************************************************************************
Organic Gardening - Plant Disease Control
Often, people think there is little they can do to control plant disease in organic gardens. With an organic garden, you can't apply fungicides to eliminate disease problems. However, there's plenty you can do to organically promote and maintain healthy, productive plants.
The old saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" is popular in the world of disease control, in both the animal and the plant world. It takes on a real meaning in organic gardening, as many of the disease control methods focus on healthy plants and avoiding diseases.
________________________________________
Organic Disease Control Methods:
Here are some methods you can use to organically ward off and fight disease problems with your plants:
Promote healthy plants - Healthy plants are less likely to get a disease. If they do, they are better able to fight the disease...and win.
Create the ideal environment - Lots of sunlight, good air circulation, low humidity. Many plant diseases thrive in just the opposite conditions.
Trim bushy plants - Many plant diseases hide and thrive in the dark recesses of bushy plants.
Insect control - Insects pick up tiny disease spores on their feet, and transport them from plant to plant.
Lime/Sulfur/Copper Sulfate sprays - these naturally occurring minerals are effective against a variety of plant diseases.
Crop Rotation - Plants disease can harbor over winter in your soil. Rotating crops will help to eliminate this problem.
Clean Tools - Disease can be picked up on your pruning shears and scissors. As you snip off a branch or twig, the open wound is a great entryway for disease.
*********************************************************************************
Organic Gardening - Beneficial Insects
As most gardeners know, not all insects are harmful to your garden plants. Some are known as "beneficial insects". They are helpful in some way to your flower and vegetable plants. Having beneficial insects around to reduce harmful insect populations, is a great way to practice organic gardening.
You don't have beneficial insects in your area? There's a market for beneficial insects. Garden stores sell the larva, so you can introduce them into your yard and garden.
________________________________________
Specific Beneficial Insects:
Lady Bugs- Also called ladybird beetles, this helper bug's favorite meal is aphids. Ladybugs will consume lots of aphids each day. They are also considered lucky. If a Ladybug finds its way into your home, don't kill it (that would be bad luck). Rather, gently capture it, and let it go. Both the larva and the adult ladybug are beneficial insects.
Praying Mantis- Masters of disguise! These six legged, stick-like insects, are colored just right to blend into surrounding foliage. Their diet includes a wide range of insects, including beetles and caterpillars. They grab and capture insects with their "modified" front legs, which are positioned in a "praying" position. Also called, Praying Mantid, and sometimes mis-spelled as "Preying Mantis".
Lacewings- Chrysoperla rufilabris, as Lacewings are formally known, helps to control caterpillars and aphids. Lacewing larva, also known as Aphid Lions, is the predatory stage of this beneficial insect. The adult lacewing diets consists mainly of nectar and pollen.
Ambush Bugs- They get their name from their hunting method. Ambush bugs sit on top of flower heads, and lie in wait for their prey. They grab their prey with their front legs, similar to Praying Mantis. Their diet consists of a variety of insects.
Ground Beetles- Not all beetles are bad. These beetles eat a variety of insects in your lawn.
Robber Fly - Their diet consists of grasshoppers, wasps, other flies.
Wasps- Most people think of wasps as nothing more than a nasty, stinging insect. Some species are a gardener's friend. They attack and kill cabbage loopers, aphids, hornworms.
Ant Lions - Chances are, you don't have Ant Eaters (the mammal) in your area. Ant lions are insects that eat ants and other crawling insects.
Spiders - The world's #1 insect predator. They can be found indoors or out. The more insects you have, the more spiders you will find.
Honey Bee- Truely a gardener's friend. They are the pollinators of the world. Currently, pesticide use, disease, and mites are depleting their numbers at an alarming rate.
Other Insect Killers: While not a "beneficial insect", birds are great resource for controlling insects. We suggest you grow plenty of flowers that will attract birds. They are fun to watch, and many will eat lots of insects. This includes Bats!
________________________________________
Attracting Beneficial Insects:
The diets of some beneficial insects includes pollen and nectar. To attract and keep beneficial insects, maintain a variety of blooming tress, shrubs and plants. Provide a continuous bloom all season long. This will also provide a home for them.
________________________________________
Insects as Pollinators:
We all know of the honey bee as a pollinator. But, many otherwise harmful insects, can be pollinators. It makes these insects both good and bad. A prime example is the cucumber beetle. It sucks on plant juices, eating holes in the leaves as it goes. However, during its journey from plant out plant, and flower to flower, it picks up pollen from male flowers, and deposits it on the stamen of female flowers. Without them, many vegetable crops would not produce fruit.....errr vegetables!
Organic Gardening in Home Organic Gardens
Home organic gardens have become increasingly popular over the last several years. Whether we know it or not, many of us already practice forms of organic gardening. We just don't give it any thought. We do it for our health, and the health of the environment.
Organic gardening is the practice of growing vegetables, herbs and fruits using only things found in nature. Absolutely no man-made chemicals are used. Although we usually do not think of it, organic gardening concepts also apply to the world of flowers, trees, shrubs, and even your lawn. It is gardening without harmful and artificial chemicals, or other products not naturally found in nature. Commonly today, potentially harmful chemicals and non-natural products are used for fertilizing, and for control of insects, disease, and weeds.
Did you Know? Organic food sales are over $10Billion! It's no small cottage industry.
If you are not completely sold on organic gardening, you can still bring some of it's benefits to yourself, your family, and the environment by applying those organic concepts that work best for you and your crop. Any organic methods that you employ will benefit you and the environment.
Certified Organic- In order to be qualified as "Certified Organic" for the marketplace, produce must be grown under strict USDA guidelines. Everything from the seed to fertilizers and soil must be organic, natural ingredients. You must apply for the certification. Federal inspectors will review your application and perform an inspection. See the path of organic produce takes to reach your dinner table.
________________________________________
Components of Organic Gardening:
Your organic gardening program consists of the following components:
• Organic garden seeds - the all important starting point
• Organic garden soil and soil amendments
• Organic fertilizers
• Organic insect repellents/insect control
• Organic disease control
• Beneficial Insects
________________________________________
In the News:
The USDA has standardized rules for Organic food.
The USDA States uniform standards provide:
• A single national standard replacing individual state and private standards
• Consistent and accurate labeling to alleviate consumer confusion
• Define uniform practices, methods and substances for for producing organic crops.
• Prohibits the use of genetic engineering, irradiation and sewage sludge.
• Improve exports through a single standard that is more readily understood in other countries.
For more information, see the USDA's pages on the National Organic Program
________________________________________
Organic Tips:
** Place fruits like pumpkin and squash on a bed of sand. Snails and slugs do not like sand and will not cross over it. You will not need to use slug and snail poisons.
** Use Companion plants that repel insects. See Companion Plants
________________________________________
The major benefits of organic gardening are many:
• Less harmful chemicals on the food you and your family may eat. This is reason enough.
• Less harm to the environment
• Cost savings as alternate sources can save you money
• You will feel better knowing you are doing your part.
________________________________________
Ways we Practice Organic Gardening Today:
Organic Gardening takes many forms. It includes:
• Use compost for mulch and fertilizer.
• Use only plant matter for mulching.....no plastics. Leaves and straw work great.
• Use manures for fertilizer in place of chemical fertilizer.
• Learning and applying proper techniques to grow healthy plants and avoid plant disease.
• Acquiring natural insect enemies, such as Ladybugs for aphids and preying mantis, to control insect problems.
• Using natural insecticides and deterrents such as garlic or soap sprays to deter insects. No insecticides or pesticides.
• Use natural insect predators like Preying Mantis and Ladybugs. If they do not exist in your area, companies sell them.
• Use a little extra muscle power to control weeds versus getting out the weed killer.
• A willingness to give up a little portion of your crop to the bugs in order to produce and consume healthier food for you and your family.
• Conserve and recycle. By using natural materials like manure, composted weeds and kitchen scraps we are using organic materials and reducing what goes into the waste stream.
• Organic Garden Seeds
• In nature, it all begins with a seed. In organic gardening, it all begins with organic garden seeds. It's the all important starting point for home organic gardens and commercial organic farming. While the focus us upon organic vegetable seeds, organic herb seeds are quite popular, too.
• Why use organic seeds? The use of chemicals can alter the genetic makeup of seeds. The resulting plant and vegetables can be affected. The USDA requires it for commercial growers in order to be "certified organic" produce.
• ________________________________________
• Organic Vegetable Seeds - There's no shortage of organic garden seeds for your vegetable garden. You can get organic seeds for the most popular vegetables, from tomatoes, peppers, and pumpkins, to lettuce and onions. You can also find them for mustard, okra, and much more!
•
• Buy Certified Organic Vegetable Seeds now
• Make certain the organic vegetable seed you are buying is certified organic. You will be paying a little extra for the seeds, and you want to be sure they are indeed organic.
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• Organic Herb Seeds - There are organic herb seeds for all of your favorite herbs. There's also an organic Lavender seed. Yes, Lavender is edible and many recipes exist.
•
Organic Garden Soil and Organic Soil Amendments
A healthy, home organic garden starts with healthy, natural, virgin soil. The site you select for your organic garden should not have been previously used for a garden where chemical fertilizers, or pesticides were previously used. It should also not be the site of a treated lawn, where chemicals were previously applied.
We encourage any movement towards organic gardening practices. If you've used chemicals in the past, and would like to practice organic gardening, you certainly can continue to use your existing garden. Chemicals you've used in the past, will slowly breakdown and leach out of the soil. This may take time. But, each year your garden will become healthier.
Important Note: If you use chemicals on your lawn, the garden should not be downhill of the lawn. Harmful chemicals can be carried downhill with ground water and into your garden.
Raised garden beds are a great place for your organic gardens.
The raised bed frame sits atop the ground. You then fill it with virgin soil and soil amendments. You control what goes into it..... natural organic soil and materials. Gardeners with raised bed frames, will often empty the soil each fall and replenish it with fresh, rich, natural ingredients for great gardens every year.
More on Raised Garden Beds
Browse/Buy Raised Garden Bed Frames
Common organic soil amendments include:
• Compost
• Leaves in the fall.
• Peat moss and spaghnum moss
• Grass clippings (from untreated lawns only)
• Manures
• Natural Mulches - don't use plastic or other artificial mulch
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Organic Gardening Fertilizers
A major component of a successful organic garden, is the fertilizers you use. Like everything else in the world of organic gardening, fertilizers must be composed of all natural ingredients. If you are an organic purist, or will be growing produce for the organic marketplace, make certain that the label on any fertilizers you use state "Certified Organic". We will focus upon organic gardening in the home market, where the "Certified Organic" tag is not a requirement.
Many home gardeners do not realize the broad range of organic products available to them. It is likely that you are already using one or more of these products.
Here are some of the most common organic fertilizers:
• Manure -rich in a wide range of plant nutrients, it also adds to soil structure.
• Seaweed & Kelp - provides nutrients and trace minerals, stimulates root growth.
• Fish Emulsion - rich in nutrients. Gardeners have used fish remains for hundreds of years, with great success.
• Compost - a well recognized natural fertilizer and soil amendment.
• Compost Tea - liquid runoff from the composting process. Use it to replace chemical liquid fertilizers for home gardens. Put some on your houseplants, too.
• Cover crops - after your gardening is done for the season, grow annual rye grass and other annual crops. Till plants into the soil in the spring to replenish nitrogen and other minerals to your soil.
• Worm Castings - worms ingest plant matter and excrete a mineral rich soil additive.
• Bat Guano - a rich manure that gardeners covet for great crops.
• Epsom Salts- commonly used to provide magnesium and sulfur to the soil. Promotes bushier growth and more flowers.
• Molasses and Honey - in small amounts to feed microorganisms in the soil.
• Fish Fertilizer - High in nutrients, micro-nutrients and minerals
• Seaweed Fertilizer- packed with major and minor nutrients and amino acids, organic gardeners use this to stimulate plant growth.
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Organic Insect Repellents and Insect Controls
Your organic gardening program will need to address insect control methods. Those nasty, harsh chemicals that effectively kill every insect around is not part of your arsenal. Chemical insecticides can have long term harmful effect on you and the environment.
Fortunately, there is a wide range of organic insect control methods. You may want to experiment with a variety of insect control methods to see which works best for you and your plants.
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Organic Insect Control can take a number of forms:
Insect Repellents
Insect repellents "repel" insects. Most organic repellents do not kill the insects. Organic repellents may contain a variety of agents. The most common repellents are garlic based. Many insects do not like the oil of garlic, and will fly off in search of other foods.
Frequent application of organic repellents is often needed, especially after heavy rains.
Make your own organic insect repellent sprays.
Companion plants
There are two types of companion plants: those that compliment the nutrient needs of other plants, and those that insects do not like. Plants that insects do not like, make great companions to other plants in your organic garden. Planting onions and garlic amid your organic vegetables, will repel a variety of insects. In addition to providing insect protection, you can harvest the onions and garlic, too. Marigolds are another great companion plant.
A companion plant can also be one that insects like. In South America, coffee growers plant banana trees around the coffee crops. Insects like the sweet, banana plants and fruit, much more than coffee plants.
Note: Plants that repel insects often make good components of insect repellent sprays.
More on Companion plants
Beneficial Insects
One way to get harmful insects out of your organic garden is to introduce and promote beneficial insects into your garden. The most well known beneficial insects are lady bugs and praying mantis. If you've got aphids, the lady bugs will thrive. If you have a variety of insects, the praying mantis will find ample hunting.
You can actually purchase these beneficial insects, and introduce them to your yard or garden.
Did you Know? They say Lady bugs bring good luck. However, not if you are an aphid.
Insect Barriers
A fine mesh insect netting will keep even small insects out of your garden. The fine mesh keeps insects out, yet lets sunlight, air and moisture in. The amount of sunlight entering and reaching your plants is dependent upon how fine the mesh is.
There is a wide range of insect an pest netting. A 1/4" to 3'8" mesh may be effective against Cicada and grasshopper invasions. They are very effective against these pests, some larger sized beetles, and a few other very large insects.
Buy/browse pest netting now.
For the vast majority of insects, a finer meshed insect netting is required.
Pest and insect netting can be very effective against flying and crawling (above ground) insects. But, they will not deter insects that live in the soil.
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Organic Gardening - Plant Disease Control
Often, people think there is little they can do to control plant disease in organic gardens. With an organic garden, you can't apply fungicides to eliminate disease problems. However, there's plenty you can do to organically promote and maintain healthy, productive plants.
The old saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" is popular in the world of disease control, in both the animal and the plant world. It takes on a real meaning in organic gardening, as many of the disease control methods focus on healthy plants and avoiding diseases.
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Organic Disease Control Methods:
Here are some methods you can use to organically ward off and fight disease problems with your plants:
Promote healthy plants - Healthy plants are less likely to get a disease. If they do, they are better able to fight the disease...and win.
Create the ideal environment - Lots of sunlight, good air circulation, low humidity. Many plant diseases thrive in just the opposite conditions.
Trim bushy plants - Many plant diseases hide and thrive in the dark recesses of bushy plants.
Insect control - Insects pick up tiny disease spores on their feet, and transport them from plant to plant.
Lime/Sulfur/Copper Sulfate sprays - these naturally occurring minerals are effective against a variety of plant diseases.
Crop Rotation - Plants disease can harbor over winter in your soil. Rotating crops will help to eliminate this problem.
Clean Tools - Disease can be picked up on your pruning shears and scissors. As you snip off a branch or twig, the open wound is a great entryway for disease.
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Organic Gardening - Beneficial Insects
As most gardeners know, not all insects are harmful to your garden plants. Some are known as "beneficial insects". They are helpful in some way to your flower and vegetable plants. Having beneficial insects around to reduce harmful insect populations, is a great way to practice organic gardening.
You don't have beneficial insects in your area? There's a market for beneficial insects. Garden stores sell the larva, so you can introduce them into your yard and garden.
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Specific Beneficial Insects:
Lady Bugs- Also called ladybird beetles, this helper bug's favorite meal is aphids. Ladybugs will consume lots of aphids each day. They are also considered lucky. If a Ladybug finds its way into your home, don't kill it (that would be bad luck). Rather, gently capture it, and let it go. Both the larva and the adult ladybug are beneficial insects.
Praying Mantis- Masters of disguise! These six legged, stick-like insects, are colored just right to blend into surrounding foliage. Their diet includes a wide range of insects, including beetles and caterpillars. They grab and capture insects with their "modified" front legs, which are positioned in a "praying" position. Also called, Praying Mantid, and sometimes mis-spelled as "Preying Mantis".
Lacewings- Chrysoperla rufilabris, as Lacewings are formally known, helps to control caterpillars and aphids. Lacewing larva, also known as Aphid Lions, is the predatory stage of this beneficial insect. The adult lacewing diets consists mainly of nectar and pollen.
Ambush Bugs- They get their name from their hunting method. Ambush bugs sit on top of flower heads, and lie in wait for their prey. They grab their prey with their front legs, similar to Praying Mantis. Their diet consists of a variety of insects.
Ground Beetles- Not all beetles are bad. These beetles eat a variety of insects in your lawn.
Robber Fly - Their diet consists of grasshoppers, wasps, other flies.
Wasps- Most people think of wasps as nothing more than a nasty, stinging insect. Some species are a gardener's friend. They attack and kill cabbage loopers, aphids, hornworms.
Ant Lions - Chances are, you don't have Ant Eaters (the mammal) in your area. Ant lions are insects that eat ants and other crawling insects.
Spiders - The world's #1 insect predator. They can be found indoors or out. The more insects you have, the more spiders you will find.
Honey Bee- Truely a gardener's friend. They are the pollinators of the world. Currently, pesticide use, disease, and mites are depleting their numbers at an alarming rate.
Other Insect Killers: While not a "beneficial insect", birds are great resource for controlling insects. We suggest you grow plenty of flowers that will attract birds. They are fun to watch, and many will eat lots of insects. This includes Bats!
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Attracting Beneficial Insects:
The diets of some beneficial insects includes pollen and nectar. To attract and keep beneficial insects, maintain a variety of blooming tress, shrubs and plants. Provide a continuous bloom all season long. This will also provide a home for them.
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Insects as Pollinators:
We all know of the honey bee as a pollinator. But, many otherwise harmful insects, can be pollinators. It makes these insects both good and bad. A prime example is the cucumber beetle. It sucks on plant juices, eating holes in the leaves as it goes. However, during its journey from plant out plant, and flower to flower, it picks up pollen from male flowers, and deposits it on the stamen of female flowers. Without them, many vegetable crops would not produce fruit.....errr vegetables!
HOW TO FARM BETTER manual
MBRLC “HOW TO SERIES” NO. 3
HOW TO FARM BETTER
Published by:
Asian Rural Life Development Foundation, International
http://www.arldf.net/How%20to%20Manual%20Revised.pdf
To the Valued Reader:
Many of these “How To” series were originally written in the 1970’s by Mr. Harold R.
Watson, Dr. Warlito A. Laquihon and other MBRLC staff. They have served a generation
of Filipino farmers in giving useful and practical information on farming systems for the
small farm family.
Interestingly enough, the demand for this type of information has only grown through the
years. This revised and updated version of the “How To” series is an attempt to continue
in the tradition of giving simple information, concepts and principles to small farmers,
students and extension workers involved in growing vegetable and fruit crops, and in
raising poultry and livestock
If you have any questions, please fee free to write and/or contact us at our international
offices of the Asian Rural Life Development Foundation (ARLDF):
Mr. J. Jeffrey Palmer, Director
ARLDF International
P.O. Box 30
Samyaek Suanprung P.O.
Chiang Mai, 50201
THAILAND
e-mail: palmer@loxinfo.co.th
You can also contact our base work in the Philippines at:
Mr. Steven L. Musen, Director
Mr. Henrylito Tacio, Program Information Officer
MBRLC
P.O. Box 41
Bansalan, 8005
PHILIPPINES
e-mail: mbrlc@mozcom.com; website: http://www2.mozcom.com/~mbrlc
We are very happy to share our experiences through this manual.
Happy farming!
J. Jeffrey Palmer, Director
ARLDF International
February 2004
UPDATED AND REVISED EDITION, 2004
With the purpose of facilitating wide information transfer, permission is hereby given for
reproducing the contents of this manual, with the condition that proper acknowledgements
are made and two copies are sent to the publisher.
These “How To” series can serve as a practical and simple guide for engaging in various
projects. The information is based on good research and the sound experiences and
practices of the MBRLC.
Bibliographic Citation:
MBRLC Editorial Staff. How to Farm Better . MBRLC, Kinuskusan, Bansalan, Davao del
Sur. 2004 Edition. How to Series No. 3.
Editorial Staff:
Mr. Henylito D. Tacio
Mr. Steven L. Musen
Mr. J. Jeffrey Palmer
Note: The trade names, manufacturers and distributors cited in this publication are used
solely for the purpose of providing specific information and do not endorse products
named or imply criticism of similar ones not mentioned. Mention of a trade name,
manufacturer or distributor does not constitute a guarantee or warranty of the product.
Published by MBRLC, Kinuskusan, Bansalan, Davao del Sur, Philippines.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
How to Grow Ampalaya ……………………………………………………….. 5
How to Propagate Fruit Trees Asexually …………………………………… 7
How to Grow Azolla …………………………………………………………….. 9
How to Grow Banana …………………………………………………………… 11
How to Grow Barbados Cherry ………………………………………………. 13
How to Make Basket Compost ……………………………………………….. 15
How to Grow Black Pepper …………………………………………………… 17
How to Raise Broiler Chickens……………………………………………….. 19
How to Grow Cacao ……………………………………………………………. 21
How to Grow Calamansi ………………………………………………………. 23
How to Grow Cassava …………………………………………………………. 25
How to Fatten Cattle in Your Backyard …………………………………….. 27
How to Grow Coffee ……………………………………………………………. 28
How to Grow Corn ……………………………………………………………… 30
How to Raise Ducks with Fish and Snails …………………………………. 32
How to Raise Ducks ……………………………………………………………. 34
How to Grow Eggplant …………………………………………………………. 36
How to Make a FAITH Garden ………………………………………………… 38
How to Feed Swine …………………………………………………………….. 40
How to Raise Dairy Goats …………………………………………………….. 42
How to Raise Swine ……………………………………………………………. 44
How to Farm Your Hilly Land ………………………………………………… 46
How to Inoculate Leguminous Plants ………………………………………. 49
How to Grow Pigeon Pea ……………………………………………………… 51
How to Raise Layer Chickens ……………………………………………….. 53
How to Grow Mangosteen ……………………………………………………. 55
How to Grow Okra ……………………………………………………………… 57
How to Grow Pineapple ………………………………………………………. 59
How to Raise Rabbits …………………………………………………….…… 61
How to Grow Rambutan ………………………………………………….…… 63
How to Grow Lowland Rice ……………………………………………….….. 64
How to Produce Your Own Seeds ……………………………………….….. 66
How to Grow Sesame ……………………………………………………….… 68
How to Grow Bush Sitao ……………………………………………………… 70
How to Raise Golden Apple Snails …………………………………………. 71
How to Grow Sorghum ……………………………………………………….. 73
How to Grow Soybeans ………………………………………………………. 75
How to Grow Stringbeans ……………………………………………………. 77
How to Grow Sweet Corn …………………………………………………….. 79
How to Grow Sweet Pepper …………………………………………………. 81
How to Grow Sweet Potato ………………………………………………….. 83
How to Tan Rabbit Skins …………………………………………………….. 85
How to Raise Tilapia ………………………………………………………….. 87
How to Grow Tomato …………………………………………………………. 89
How to Grow Vegetable Transplants ………………………………………. 91
How to UPLIFT Your Small Lowland Farm ……………………………….. 93
How to Grow Winged Beans ………………………………………………… 95
HOW TO GROW AMPALAYA (MOMORDICA CHARANTIA)
IMPORTANCE 1) Ampalaya is one of the vegetables you need to plant in your farm or
garden. Aside from being a good source of vitamins and minerals, it is also
a good source of income because it has a ready market. Almost all the parts
of this plant are useful. Its fruits and leaves--and sometimes its stalks--can
be sold.
VARIETIES 2) There are two types of ampalaya: the white and the green types.
The latter, however, is more popular among consumers. Among the
varieties you can grow in your farm or garden are the following:
Lagus Africa, Indang (or BPI Long Green), Iloilo Long, Santa Rita,
Laur, Polo, Karela, and Silang.
ADAPTATION 3) The ampalaya vine is found everywhere in the country for it grows on
different kinds of soils. However, for best result, plant it on a well-drained,
sandy-loam or clay-loam soil which is rich in organic matter. Do not plant
ampalaya in wet areas because it cannot tolerate too much moisture. You
can grow ampalaya any time of the year as long as there is sufficient
moisture.
LAND 4) Prepare the land thoroughly before planting ampalaya. Plow and
PREPARATION harrow the field three times and then furrow it with a distance of two meters
between rows. If you intend to plant ampalaya in your garden, be sure you
prepare the plot thoroughly. Usually the ampalaya is planted in hills about
one meter apart.
PLANTING 5) There are two ways of planting ampalaya: transplanted and direct
seeded. If your area doesn't have enough water supply and ampalaya
seeds are rather limited, it is much better to sow the seeds first in a seed
box or seedbed. Press the seeds into sterilized soil and then water the seed
box or seedbed every day until transplanting
time. (Sterilize the soil by
pouring boiling water on the surface of the soil or by burning dried leaves of
banana on top of the soil.) The seedlings are ready for transplanting when
they have one or two pairs of true leaves.
Seeds to be used for direct planting should be dried in the sun for two days.
Then plant three to five seeds per hill five centimeters deep in rows. After
several days, when sprouts are seen on the ground, thin out the plants
leaving only two to three of the strongest looking plants per hill.
TRELLISING 6) When the plants are about one foot long, you can erect two-meter high
vine supports of either ipil-ipil or madre de cacao on each hill. Reinforce the
supports with plastic twine or rope and weave one-foot square wire mesh to
top the trellises. Later on, inspect the fruits to be sure they hang well. This
is done in order for you to avoid harvesting curled or deformed fruits.
CULTIVATION 7) You can start doing a shallow cultivation with a hoe or "guna" or animaldrawn
plow three months after planting.
WEEDING 8) This is very important in amplaya growing. Weeding is done in order to
eliminate weeds, which will compete with your plants for moisture and
nutrients.
IRRIGATION 9) Apply just enough water to keep the soil moist--not too wet but not too
dry. Do not over water your ampalaya plants since, as stated earlier, they
cannot bear too much moisture.
FERTILIZATION 10) Proper watering coupled with adequate fertilization will increase plant
vigor. At planting, apply a complete fertilizer (14-14-14) at the rate of two
table spoons per hill eight centimeters from the base of the plants. When
plants are three weeks to one month old, side-dress with one tablespoon of
urea and two table spoons of ammonium sulphate.
CONTROL OF 11) The most common pests that attack ampalaya are the melon
PESTS fruit fly, thrips and aphids. You can control melon fruit fly by using
Foliafume-soap, which is available from your agricultural stores or from the
Bureau of Plant Industry and its local agencies. Thrips can be controlled by
spraying with Hamidop 600. To control aphids, Orthene 75 or Malathion may
be used at regular intervals.
CONTROL OF 12) There are two common diseases of ampalaya: fusarium
DISEASES wilt and anthracnose. Fusarium wilt can be controlled by crop rotation and
by observing sanitation in the farm or garden. Control measures for
anthracnose include spraying the plants with fungicides, sanitation, and
disinfecting seed before planting.
HARVESTING 13) You can start harvesting ampalaya when most of the fruits have reached
marketable size and when seeds are still immature. This is usually 50 days
after planting. Fruits are harvested every four days thereafter.
FRUIT 14) To prevent bruising and to prolong the freshness of ampalya
PROTECTION fruits, place them in bamboo baskets lined with fresh banana leaves while
harvesting.
HOW TO PROPAGATE FRUIT TREES ASEXUALLY
INTRODUCTION 1) You can multiply the number of your favorite fruit trees and even enhance
their good characteristics by propagating them asexually. Asexual
propagation means the reproduction of a plant by its vegetative parts that is,
by stems, leaves or roots. Sexual propagation, on the other hand, is the
reproduction of plants through seeds. Many trees do not reproduce their
own desirable characteristics when propagated through seeds, and some
trees do not even bear seeds.
ADVANTAGES 2) The advantage of asexual propagation over sexual is that
OF ASEXUAL you can reproduce the exact characteristics of the trees
PROPAGATION you want, shorten their maturity period and decrease their size. You can
also enhance the adaptability of your trees to poor soil conditions by
combining a resistant rootstock with a less resistant but more desirable
scion.
METHODS OF 3) There are five most common methods of asexually propagating
ASEXUAL trees. These are: cuttings, marcotting, inarching, grafting and
PROPAGATION budding. The easiest to do and most popular among these methods are the
cuttings and marcotting.
PROPAGATION 4) Trees that you can propagate by cuttings are citrus
BY CUTTINGS (calamansi, oranges, lime), guava, rambutan, chico, Barbados cherry,
coffee, and many others. Choose young stems from your favorite and
healthy trees. Cut them in the nodes with a length of about seven to ten
centimeters. Cut their leaves in half to prevent too much evaporation of
water, but do not strip off all the leaves.
Figure 1. A simple method to propagate plants by cuttings.
ROOT 5) To speed up root formation, you can treat the tips of
FORMATION your cuttings with Rootone or Alpha-napthalene Acetic Acid. (A.N.A.A). You
can buy these rooting chemicals from agricultural stores in your area.
PLANTING 6) Plant your cuttings in a box filled with ordinary sand. You can adjust the
size of the box according to the number of cuttings you need. Sand will only
serve as a rooting medium.
WATERING 7) Water your cuttings three times a day and cover the box with a
transparent plastic sheet (this will conserve moisture and maintain a humid
and warmer temperature suitable for root development).
TRANSPLANTING 8) When your cuttings have already developed a pair of about two-inch roots
(this will take about two months), transplant them in plastic bags filled with
sterilized fertile soil. They should remain for another month under a partial
shade before transferring them to the field.
PROPAGATION 9) Marcotting is similar but easier and more sure of
BY MARCOTTING success than cuttings. As long as you follow the steps illustrated below
(Figure 2), you can just wait until your stem develops its own roots. The
mother tree will do its usual feeding and watering until the stem can feed
itself.
When new shoots appear just below the ball of the soil, roots have already
grown. If you can see whitish roots breaking through the soil inside the
plastic wrap, your marcotted stem is ready for transfer.
Figure 2. Propagation by marcotting
CUTTING 10) In cutting the rooted stem from the mother tree, be careful not to twist
the ball of earth. Cut it just below the tied end. Remove the plastic wrap
before transplanting the new plant in a bag of sterilized fertile soil. Let it
remain in partial shade until it is hardened.
HOW TO GROW AZOLLA (ANABAENA AZOLLAE)
INTRODUCTION 1) Chemical fertilizers are getting more expensive these days. As a result,
rice farmers are discouraged to apply the recommended amounts of
fertilizers. But rice farmers should not feel that the situation is
hopeless. They could still increase their yield by using Azolla.
IMPORTANCE 2) What is special about this water fern is that it contains a blue-
OF AZOLLA green algae, ”Anabaena Azollae ”. This algae has the ability to convert or
"fix" nitrogen from the air, as much as 30 to 40 kilograms per hectare.
CHEMICAL 3) Based on the chemical analysis of Azolla, the plant nutrients
ANALYSIS available per ton of fresh Azolla are as follows: 2.10 kilograms of nitrogen
(N), 1.05 kilograms of phosphorous (P), and 1.75 kilograms of potassium
(K). For 20 tons of Azolla biomass incorporated in the soil, it will contribute
more or less 42 kilograms of N, 21 kilograms of P, and 35 kilograms of K, or
a total of 98 kilograms of NPK per hectare.
GROWING 4) To grow enough Azolla biomass for one hectare of rice-field, start
AZOLLA with a small nursery bed of three square meters. This requires 600
grams of Azolla seeding materials and will produce in 12 to 16 days about
eight to 10 kilograms of fresh Azolla biomass. This is enough to seed a 40-
square-meter bed which will yield in 12 to 16 days about 120 kilograms of
fresh Azolla sufficient to seed a 600-square-meter multiplication bed. A 600-
square-meter bed seeded with 120 kilograms of fresh Azolla seeding
materials will produce in 12 to 16 days two tons of fresh Azolla sufficient to
seed one hectare.
MULTIPLI- 5) It takes about one and a half months to grow enough Azolla
CATION biomass to seed one hectare, assuming that a healthy growth of
Azolla doubles its biomass every four days. It is a must for Azolla
growers/users to maintain a nursery or multiplication bed of at least 40
square meters to provide a continuous supply of Azolla seeding material or
inoculum.
SECURING 6) Azolla is grown throughout the country, mostly by rice
AZOLLA farmers. Secure from them your Azolla seeding material.
INOCULUM
STEPS IN 7) Here are eight steps in growing this small aquatic fern:
AZOLLA
CULTURE *Select in your farm an area that is not directly exposed to sunlight.
*Prepare the field just like you prepare for rice culture.
*Maintain the water level at five to seven centimeters deep.
*Sow fresh Azolla inoculum at the rate of 200 grams per square meter which
is equivalent to about two and a half level cans of condensed milk.
*Broadcast super phosphate fertilizer (powdered form, 0-18-0) at the rate of
8.3 grams per square meter or about one heaping table-spoonful of the
fertilizer on top of the Azolla biomass. Tap the Azolla biomass gently
immediately after fertilization to moisten and dissolve fertilizer to prevent
frond burning. Follow these rates of appli-cation: three-square-meter
nursery or multiplication bed, 12.5 grams; 40-square-meter nursery bed, 170
grams; 600-square-meter nursery bed, 2.5 kilograms. Make four
applications at four days interval.
*If visible infestation occurs, apply a pinch of carbofuran per square meter.
Do this every time you ob serve such infestation.
*If your nursery is bigger than one square meter, gently tap the Azolla with a
"tingting" broom spread wide to scatter them and accelerate their growth.
*After eight to 12 days, the whole one square meter area will be covered
fully with more than one kilo of fresh Azolla biomass. This is now ready as a
source for further multiplication in bigger nursery beds.
UTILIZATION 8) Aside from its uses as a green manure, Azolla can also be utilized as
livestock and poultry feed and as organic fertilizer.
*As livestock and poultry feed - Azolla contains 22 to 73 per cent crude
protein (on a dry weight basis). It can be dried, pulverized and mixed with
other low protein rations up to 20 to 25 per cent, as generally
recommended. However, it is not recommended as a pure ration because it
needs supplementation with three essential amino acids (lycine, methionine
and histidine).
*As organic fertilizer - Azolla makes an excellent compost with rice straw.
Since Azolla has a high protein content, it enhances decomposition. For
example, rice straw alone rarely decomposes readily. When rice straw and
Azolla are piled together in alternate layers and kept moist, the whole mass
turns into friable compost in only five to six weeks.
HOW TO GROW BANANA (MUSA SPP.)
IMPORTANCE 1) Banana is one of the favorite fruits of Filipinos. This sweet, finger-like fruit
comes in a number of varieties.
VARIETIES 2) The most common varieties grown in the country are: Gros Michel,
Latundan, Bungolan, Lakatan, Saba, Chinese Dwarf, and Giant
Cavendish. Other common varieties are Morado, Pitogo, Los Banos
Senorita, Tindok, Gloria, Granada, and Tumok.
ADAPTATION 3) Plant banana in a well-drained, fairly fertile soil. For best yields, grow
banana in sandy loam to clay loam soils with excellent drainage and liberal
amounts of organic matter. Regions having an average rainfall of about
4000 millimeters a year are ideal places for planting this fruit.
PROPAGATION 4) There are two common propagation materials: rhizomes and suckers.
Large suckers are preferred. They should be removed from strong clumps
with a spade when four to five feet tall. Cut off the largest leaves. Suckers
should have many healthy roots. If healthy suckers are not available, the
suckers are cut off and the rhizome
is trimmed of all damaged roots and dark tissue, or cut into pieces
containing only white, healthy tissue and few buds.
LAND 5) The land should be prepared thoroughly. Plowing and
PREPARATION then harrowing must be done two to three times until the soil is wellpulverized.
Remove stumps and bushes from newly-cleared fields.
SPACING 6) Good spacing is 3.5 by 4.0 meters or even farther apart, particularly for
large varieties.
PLANTING 7) The holes should be 45 centimeters (1.5 feet) in diameter
HOLES and almost knee-deep. Place about 10 grams of complete fertilizer and a
few grams of granular nematocide in the bottom of each hole. It is also
desirable to cover the planting materials with compost and soil. A good thick
layer of mulch will improve the recovery and growth of the planting material.
Soil around each new plant should be tamped and watered.
FERTILIZATION 8) In poor soils bananas should be fertilized frequently for maximum
production. Since the potash requirement of banana is high, the fertilizer
should contain N-P-K at a ration of 3-1-6. The amount of fertilizer depends
on the size and age of the stalk and on the number of stalks per clump.
Young plants should be started with one pound of a 6-2-12 mixture or a
similar formula applied every two months. Increase this gradually to five to
six pounds at flowering and fruiting time, 10 months later.
PRUNING 9) Prune or de-sucker the plants at least once a month. Allow only one or
two suckers with well-developed underground stems and narrow, sword-like
leaves to survive. De-sucker the plants before the side-shoots reach two
feet in height.
PROPPING 10) To protect heavily bearing plants from wind damage and collapse, prop
them up with bamboo poles. Two bamboo poles are tied together and
opened like a pair of big scissors. Place the neck of the plant between the
poles.
BAGGING 11) You can use plastic bags to wrap developing fruit
OF FRUIT bunches to prevent peel scratching by birds and bats, sun scalding, fungal
infections (which cause spots and discoloration), and infestation by insects.
The upper part of the bag should be tied to the neck of the bunch and its
lower end should be left open. Remove the bags during harvesting.
CONTROL 12) The serious diseases that will attack your banana are
OF DISEASES the following: Panama disease (also known as banana wilt and vascular
wilt), sigatoka disease, pitting disease, and Bunchy Top disease. You can
control and/or prevent their occurrence by planting resistant varieties,
spraying fungicides, and practicing field sanitation.
CONTROL 13) A common pest is the banana weevil which attacks the
OF INSECTS corms. It can be controlled by sanitation, by cutting affected corms, and by
spraying with chemicals. Another pest is the red rust thrip, which destroys
the leaves. It may be controlled by spraying with chemicals.
HARVESTING 14) Saba may be harvested 15 to 16 months after planting (MAP); Lakatan,
14 to 15 MAP; Dwarf Cavendish, 8 MAP; and Giant Cavendish, 6 to 7 MAP.
The usual practice in harvesting bananas in the country is to cut the bunch
when they are green at varying stages of maturity.
To harvest bananas, make a deep cut about the middle of the stalk or trunk
and allow the top to fall gradually until the bunch can be caught or grasped
by a worker below. The bunch is then cut, leaving a fruit stalk long enough
for the bunch to be grasped and carried.
HOW TO GROW BARBADOS CHERRY (MALPIGHIA GLABRA)
IMPORTANCE 1) How would you like to grow a valuable fruit tree in your garden that will
bear fruit within six months? A tree that provides fruit with the highest
known source of vitamin C? A tree that is attractive and easy to
propagate? If you are interested in these qualities, then growing Barbados
Cherry might be a worthwhile project for you.
USES 2) The fruit, which is sour and turns bright cherry red when ripe, can either
be eaten plain, preserved, or crushed and strained and mixed with sugar
and water to make delicious juice or ice candy. Three ripe fruits provide a
full day's supply of vitamin C (one fruit has eight times as much vitamin C as
one calamansi or calamondin).
ADAPTATION 3) The climate in most regions of the country is suited for growing the
Barbados Cherry. In planting this fruit tree, select an area in your farm or
home lot where the soil is fertile, deep and well-drained.
PROPAGATION 4) You can propagate Barbados Cherry by hardwood cuttings, marcotting,
and budding or layering. But the best method is by marcotting.
MARCOTTING 5) Marcotting is done by growing roots on a branch while the branch is still
part of the tree. The branch with the new roots is then cut off and planted.
Below are the steps in marcotting:
a) Select a woody branch thicker than a pencil. Near the
end of the branch use a sharp knife to remove a 1/4"
strip of bark. Carefully clean the exposed strip, thus
removing the cambium layer.
b) Make a ball of moist clay soil or moss and place it
around the exposed cut. Wrap securely with plastic and
tie both ends.
c) When roots are visible through the plastic (1-2 months),
cut the new marcott from the mother tree. Remove about
one-half to two-thirds of the leaves and prune for a
balanced shape. Remove the plastic and transplant to a
prepared seedling bag, taking care not to damage the
delicate young roots while handling. Water it thoroughly
Allow the seedling to "harden" in the shade for
three to four weeks or until new leaves begin to grow.
LAND 6) If planted on the farm, it is better to plant Barbados
PREPARATION Cherry in a land previously plowed and planted to other crops. But if the
land has been idle for some time and is weedy, it should be plowed and
harrowed at least two times in order to eliminate the weeds and loosen the
soil.
PLANTING 7) Follow the recommended steps in planting Barbados Cherry:
PROCEDURE
- The distance between the holes for the plants is three
to four meters in a square pattern.
- Dig a hole one-and-a-half feet deep and one-and-a-half
feet in diameter. Then fill half of the hole with mixed
soil consisting of one-third animal manure, one-third
sand, and one-third garden soil.
- Remove the plastic bag covering the marcotted Barbados
Cherry with a sharp blade or knife. Then gently set
the plant inside the hole, gradually covering with pulverized
top soil.
- Finish filling the hole with top soil, packing it lightly
until the hole is filled up to ground level.
- After planting, water the plant abundantly and
regularly thereafter, making sure the area where the
roots are concentrated is sufficiently wet so it can
provide moisture needed to sustain the growth of the
marcot until the next watering.
FERTILIZATION 8) The amount and the kind of fertilizer to apply depend upon the soil fertility
of your area. As a general guide, one to two handfuls of complete fertilizer
(14-14-14) per plant will be enough. Frequency of application depends
upon the growth of your plants.
SPRAYING 9) Spray your plants regularly with insecticide like Malathion to get rid of
insects destructive to Barbados Cherry. Follow carefully what is
recommended on the manufacturer's label.
HARVESTING 10) The Barbados Cherry will bear fruit four to six months after planting. The
fruits are ready to harvest when they look cherry red.
HOW TO MAKE BASKET COMPOST
WHAT IS 1) Basket composting is the process by which your home garbage,
BASKET garden and farm waste and leguminous plants like ipil-ipil leaves
COMPOSTING? are allowed to rot in baskets which are half buried in garden plots.
The resulting product is called basket compost. The purpose of basket
composting is to directly use plant nutrients that can be derived from the
rotting materials for home food production.
BENEFITS 2) Basket composting will give you these benefits:
a. You can immediately use the basket compost without waiting for the
usual 3 to 4 months period as is necessary in the old method of composting.
b. It requires less work because you don't need to turn the composting
materials.
c. Your home and its surroundings will become cleaner because garbage
and waste are collected and decomposed in compost baskets.
d. There is higher vegetable crop production at less cost.
MATERIALS 3) The materials needed are all available in your backyard:
NEEDED
a. Any old round baskets of at least 1 foot in diameter and 1 foot in
height. Stakes or wire could be used by forming them into shapes of round
baskets. The purpose of the basket is to hold your composting materials in
place.
b. All home organic garbage, farm and garden wastes, weeds and grasses
which can be gathered while cleaning and preparing your garden
plots. Leaves of nitrogen fixing trees/shrubs (NFT/S) such as Flemingia
macrophylla, Leucaena leucocephala, Desmodium rensonii, Indigofera anil,
Glircicidia sepium , etc., if available, are excellent materials for basket
composting.
c. Any farm manure which will be the source of rotting organisms and
nitrogen.
PROCEDURE 4) You can modify or improve the procedure in basket composting.
Generally, this is how it is done:
a. Clean your garden site and prepare the garden plots thoroughly. Save
weeds and grasses for composting materials.
b. Make holes in the garden plots large enough to accommodate the size of
your baskets. The baskets should be one meter apart. Then half bury the
baskets in the holes.
c. Place the most decomposed garbage and manure into the
basket first. The un-decomposed materials like ipil-ipil leaves, grasses and
weeds should be placed into the basket last.
d. If the materials placed in the bottom part of the basket are almost
decomposed, you can immediately plant your seeds or seedlings 2 to 3
inches outside the baskets. Do not plant inside the basket.
e. If the materials placed in the baskets are green leaves, plant your seeds
or seedlings 2 to 3 weeks later. This will give the materials enough time to
start decomposing. If you use green leaves of ipil-ipil you need at least 5
kilos to start it. Add 2 kilos of leaves every two weeks. In this way, you need
not to buy commercial fertilizer for your plants.
f. Water only at the center of the basket instead of watering the plants. The
lower part of the basket is cool, moist, and has abundant nutrients for your
crops. Later on, the roots will grow into the basket.
g. Unlike the old procedure of composting, you don't need to turn the rotting
materials. Just keep on adding new and un-decomposed materials.
h. After harvesting your garden crops, remove the contents of the baskets
and spread them evenly around the baskets, working the decomposed
materials into the soil. This will act as a starter for the next plants until roots
are able to penetrate into the baskets where abundant plant feeds are
available.
BASKET 5) Here is how basket composting will look in your garden
COMPOSTING plots.
IN YOUR
PLOT
CROPS FOR 6) Some garden crops which have been successful with the use
USE WITH of basket composting are tomatoes, pepper, beans, soybeans, sweet
COMPOST corn, lima beans, acorn squash, eggplant, and okra. You can try
other vegetables also.
HOW TO GROW BLACK PEPPER (PIPER NIGRUM)
IMPORTANCE 1) Black pepper is one of the most important spices raised in the
Philippines. It is used by food manufacturers and cooks as a seasoning for
special and ordinary dishes.
VARIETIES 2) Varieties of black pepper are generally classified into four groups,
namely: large-leafed, small-leafed, tall, and short. You can plant any of
these varieties in your farm or backyard. It is best to buy your rooted plants
from farmers who are producing black pepper seedlings.
PROPAGATION 3) Black pepper can be propagated by cuttings or by seeds. With either
method, it is necessary to have a propagation bed where the cuttings can be
rooted or the seeds germinated and nursed to transplanting age. The
seedling bed should be of fine, rich soil and should be in a shaded area. It
should be kept constantly moist but not wet until the plants are ready for
transplanting.
SUPPORTS 4) Since black pepper is a creeping plant, it needs posts to climb on. The
supports must be at least three to four meters high, 2.5 meters between
rows.
Commonly used support trees include legumes like the madre de cacao or
kakawate (Gliricidia sepium ), ipil-ipil (Leucaena leucocephala ), and the dapdap
(Erythrina spp.).
TRANSPLANTING 5) Transplant the rooted seedlings at the start of the rainy season. Plant
two or three seedlings a few centimeters away from the base of each
support tree. Before placing the plants in the prepared holes, carefully
remove the plastic bags holding the plants and soil.
SOIL AND 6) The land for black pepper may vary from flat to gently
CLIMATIC sloping, but sloping land should be terraced. Black
REQUIREMENTS pepper grows well in many types of soil. Deep and well-drained soil rich in
organic matter is best. It should not be planted in waterlogged areas. A
warm, humid climate is ideal. Black pepper needs 100 to 300 centimeters of
rainfall per year.
FERTILIZATION 7) Use compost, dried chicken manure, other animal manures and/or one
tablespoon of 16-20-0 or 14-14-14 per plant.
WEEDING 8) Remove the weeds growing between the rows of black pepper to reduce
the competition between the weeds and black pepper for water and
nutrients, air and sunlight. Also, ring-weed the plants. Place the cut weeds
around the plants as mulch, especially during the dry season. Do not use
thick mulch materials during the rainy season. Decaying mulch materials
may serve as breeding sites for harmful microorganisms during the wet
months.
CARE OF THE 9) Black pepper should not be allowed to grow tall. As the
PLANTS vines climb the supports, the tops should be pulled down at the desired
height of two to three meters. Every three months, manure or compost
should be applied to each hill to maintain plant growth.
PEST 10) Two common insects attacking black pepper are the leaf-
MANAGEMENT hopper and the mealy bug. To control these, spray the plants with either
Sevin 85S, Malathion or Thiodan.
Black pepper is also attacked by root grubs and African snails. To prevent
root grubs, select a well-drained area for planting. Control the snails with
poison bait which you can obtain from commercial agricultural stores.
Another way to control the snails is to simply crush them and place them
around the plants to decompose and become organic fertilizer. Ants should
be prevented from building their nests around the pepper plants.
CONTROL 11) Diseases found to cause damage are "sudden death"
OF DISEASES disease, wilt, and "pollu" disease. Sudden death is believed to be caused
by eelworms and root fungus. No effective control measures have been
found although pulling and burning infected plant parts may prevent spread.
"Pollu" disease, characterized by hollow and light berries, is caused by
insect damage (flea beetles and gall fly), fungus attack (Colectotricum
spp.) or physiological disturbances of the plants that cause the premature
shedding of spikes. This disease can be partly controlled by spraying the
vines with Bordeaux mixture and insecticides.
HARVESTING 12) The first harvest of black pepper berries is on its third year. The spikes
are ready for harvest when several berries attached to them have turned
red. Remove the spikes by hand from the vines. Rub the berries off by
hand or beat them lightly with a stick to separate them from the spikes.
On the third year, the first harvest varies from one half to one kilogram per
plant. At the age of seven years, the yield is approximately 1.5 kilograms
per plant.
DRYING 13) After harvesting, dry berries immediately under the sunlight until they
become black and wrinkled. The ideal remaining moisture content of black
pepper is 12 percent. Dried berries can be stored for long periods of time.
MAKING 14) Black pepper is sold in the market in two forms--black
WHITE PEPPER and white. If the latter is desired, select the best and ripest berries and
submerge them in water for one to two weeks to let them soften. After
soaking, allow the berries to ferment before removing the outer hull.
HOW TO RAISE BROILER CHICKENS
IMPORTANCE 1) Protein is one of the most important elements in our daily diet.
Production of broiler (or meat-type) chickens is one way to provide protein in
your diet and to provide additional income for your family.
CONSIDERATIONS 2) Before deciding to raise broilers, you should consider
IN BROILER the following factors: (1) interest plus knowledge on
RAISING broiler production, (2) water supply, (3) availability of feed and veterinary
supplies, (4) market and (5) the peace and order situation in your area.
STOCK 3) If you want to produce high-quality chicken meat, you have to raise
SELECTION broilers that are adaptable to local conditions, available any time of the year,
and if possible, resistant to diseases. Some of the most common broilers in
the country are Arbor Acres, Cobb, Hubbard, Peterson Chicks, and Stanbre.
SITE 4) Build your broiler house in an area with good drainage
SELECTION and plenty of water.
BROILER 5) A broiler house should protect the birds from rains,
HOUSE strong winds, and extremes of temperature. It should be easy to
clean. Provide one-half square foot of floor space per bird.
BROODING 6) There are two types of brooding: natural and artificial. In natural
brooding the mother hen provides the heat, but this system is good only for
a limited number of chicks. Artificial brooding makes use of electric lamps,
bulbs, etc. as sources of heat for the chicks.
FEEDS AND 7) There are three types of commercial feeds available in
FEEDING the market today: the broiler starter, the broiler finisher, and the
straight broiler mash. Starter rations contain about 24-25% protein.
Finisher rations are about 20-21% protein. The straight broiler or all-purpose
mash contains 22% protein.
The starter ration is fed to the birds during the first 5 weeks. From 5 weeks
to marketing age (8 weeks) the finishing ration is fed. If you prefer to use the
all-purpose ration, feed this from the start up to marketing age.
The following ration is one which you can mix yourself:
Tikitiki (rice bran) ................. 16 kilos
Soybean meal ..........………. 15 "
Binlud or crushed corn ……. 10 "
Copra meal ............…………. 4 "
Ipil-ipil leaf meal ...…………… 3 "
Limestone ............………….... 1 "
Meat & bone meal ........ …….. 1 "
Salt ..................……………… 0.2 "
Afsillin ..............…………….. 0.1 "
Total 50.3 kilos
FEED CONSUMPTION AND FEED CONVERSION OF BROILER CHICKS
====================================================================
Age of Chicks Average Weekly Feed Cumulative Feed Consumption
(Days) Weight Consumption per kilo of weight gain
====================================================================
0 43 gm. NA NA
1 - 7 74 " 85 gm. 1.15 kilos
8 - 14 154 " 125 " 1.37 "
15 - 21 269 " 225 " 1.62 "
22 - 28 423 " 348 " 1.85 "
29 - 35 628 " 429 " 1.93 "
36 - 42 868 " 637 " 2.13 "
43 - 49 1123 " 723 " 2.50 "
50 - 60 1384 " 890 " 2.50 "
====================================================================
SOURCE: SEARCA, ”A Training Manual for Poultry Production”
DISEASE 9) The most economical and best way to control disease
PREVENTION is through prevention, which could be achieved by proper
AND CONTROL management, effective sanitation and a vaccination program. Even
with all the precautionary procedures, however, communicable diseases still
strike.
The following symptoms are early signs of disease: sudden drop in feed
consumption, difficulty in breathing, disturbed feathers, irritation, cloudy
eyes and pale mucous membranes, and drop in weight.
In case you suspect disease in your broilers, you need to isolate the
affected birds right away. Consult your veterinarian or any other authority to
determine the exact cause of the disease and how to treat it. Birds which
die should be burned or buried.
MARKETING 10) Broilers are marketed at 7-8 weeks of age. Plan the right time to
produce your broilers so they will be ready for sale when the demand is
highest. Studies show that the months of November and December are the
best marketing times for broilers. It may be possible to locate buyers right in
your own community...especially in areas where the family income is
generally high.
HOW TO GROW CACAO (THEOBROMA CACAO)
IMPORTANCE 1) Cacao is the source of the delicious chocolate drink. It is also used in
flavoring candies, pastries and ice cream. The cacao oil is used in the
manufacture of cosmetics (lipstick, facial creams, etc.) because it does not
become smelly. It is also used in pharmaceuticals as a base for important
antibiotics. For your own home consumption and to increase your income,
plant cacao either in your farm or backyard.
VARIETIES 2) There are three common varieties of cacao from which you can choose:
the Criollo (the native variety), the Forastero and the Trinitario.
ADAPTATION 3) Plant cacao in areas where the rainfall is evenly distributed throughout
the year. It grows well in a clay loam soil that is rich in organic matter.
Cacao likes partially shaded sites; therefore you can grow it under coconut
trees. For open areas, you can grow shade trees like ipil-ipil (Leucaena
leucocephala ) and/or madre de cacao (Gliricidia sepium ), but you need to
plant the trees six months ahead of the cacao.
PROPAGATION 4) Cacao is usually propagated by means of seeds. Select your seeds from
big pods obtained from strong, healthy and most productive trees. Remove
first the slimy covering of the seeds by rubbing them with ashes or
fermenting them for a day and then washing off the slimy covering with
water. Cacao seeds cannot be stored for a
long time; therefore, they must be planted immediately after taking them
from the pods.
GROWING 5) Prepare plastic bags (size: 15 cm x 20 cm x .002 mil) by
SEEDLINGS making holes at the bottom for drainage. Fill each bag with fertile and
easily crumbled top soil. Plant your seeds in the prepared plastic bags 2
centimeters deep and with their radicle (root point) down.
You must provide shade for your seedlings. After two
months, or when the leaves of your seedlings are already mature and hard,
you can transplant them in the field.
LAND 6) Prepare your land by clearing all underbrush. Measure
PREPARATION distances of 2.5 to 3.0 meters apart and put stakes for
AND your guide. Dig holes big enough to accommodate the
TRANSPLANTING ball of soil around the roots of your seedlings. To prevent damaging the
roots of your seedlings, cut the plastic bags with a sharp knife and lower
carefully the seedlings into their respective holes. Cover first with topsoil
then the subsoil. Water after transplanting. If possible, plant cacao at the
start of the rainy season.
WEEDING 7) Control weeds by ring weeding about one meter around the trees.
Weeding should be done only when necessary. Ring weed young cacao
plants at least once a month during the rainy season. In sloping areas you
can plant cover crops like wild peanut (Arahcis pintoi ).
FERTILIZATION 8) Start fertilizing your cacao plants when you think it is needed or at one
year after planting. Fertilize your non-bearing cacao plants with complete
fertilizer (14-14-14) at one-half kilo per tree per year. As for bearing plants,
provide them the same kind of fertilizer at one kilo per tree per year. Split
your application into two: one-half at the start of the rainy season and the
other half six months later. In the absence of commercial fertilizer, you can
use ipil-ipil and madre de cacao leaves and/or manure.
MULCHING 9) A mulch of ipil-ipil leaves or grasses around the trees will lessen the need
for weeding. It will also maintain the fertility and the organic matter content
of your soil.
PRUNING 10) Prune your cacao trees to remove unwanted growth. This will make
spraying and harvesting easier. In addition, it will help control pests and
diseases and maintain high yields.
PEST 11) Cacao pod borer is the most serious pest of cacao. To
MANAGEMENT reduce damage by this pest, cover all developing fruits with plastic bags.
Insects can be controlled by spraying Malathion or any recommended
insecticides. Be sure to follow the dosage written on the label.
The most common cacao diseases are black rot and stem canker, which are
caused by fungus. They can be controlled by spraying fungicides like
Dithane. You can also control the spread of these diseases by removing
and burning infected fruits, stems and heavily infected trees.
HARVESTING 12) Harvest only mature pods. Pods are mature when they change color:
from red to yellowish orange and green to yellow. Remove the beans by
breaking the pods.
FERMENTATION 13) Ferment the cacao beans after they have been extracted. Fermentation
is accomplished by putting the mass of seeds in a box provided with 20-30
holes or in a basket. Stir the seeds at least once a day for three to seven
days for uniform fermentation. When a cut section of a bean shows an
outer brown ring, you can then dry and store the beans. Beans can be
safely stored at eight per cent moisture content.
HOW TO GROW CALAMANSI (CITRUS MITIS VAR. MICROCARPA)
USEFULNESS OF 1) Calamansi is the most popular and commonly used citrus fruit in the
CALAMANSI Philippines. Its juice, which is rich in minerals and vitamin C, makes a
nutritious fruit drink. It helps to prevent respiratory diseases, strengthens the
bones and stimulates growth. Every household recognizes calamansi as a
medicine, a kitchen ingredient, a beauty concoction and an essential fruit
drink. You can have a year round supply of this versatile citrus fruit by
growing the plant in your home lot.
SOIL AND 2) It is easy to cultivate calamansi. The plant grows well in cool and
CLIMATIC elevated areas. It thrives best in rich and sandy soil.
REQUIREMENTS
PROPAGATING 3) You can buy calamansi seedlings from the Mindanao Baptist
CALAMANSI Rural Life Center. Plant the seedlings five meters apart. If you are
planting grafted calamansi, dig a hole at least 40 centimeters in
diameter and 40 centimeters deep. Set the seedling into the hole and
put back the soil mixed with compost. Water the plant daily.
FERTILIZATION 4) If you want to produce big, luscious fruits, fertilize the plants
regularly. One month after planting, apply 50 to 100 grams (which is
about one handful) of Urea and 16-20-0 (mixed) around each tree.
Fertilize every four months.
Starting on the second year, increase the fertilizer to 200 or 300
grams (Urea and 16-20-0 mixed) per tree every four months.
The tree bears fruits after 1 to 2 years. By that time you should apply
complete fertilizer like12-24-12 at the rate of 1.5 kilos per tree to
increase fruit yield. By the time your tree is 8-10 years old you should
increase the fertilizer to two to three kilos per tree three times per
year.
Apply the fertilizer properly by mixing it with the soil. Cover the soil
around each tree with dry leaves to conserve moisture. Uproot weeds
when necessary.
Apply fertilizer to producing trees three times yearly: first, during the
rainy season before flowering; second, two months after flowering;
and the last, after harvesting.
PESTS AND 5) To keep the trees healthy, protect them from pests and
THEIR diseases. To control citrus bark borers, spray the trees
CONTROL with EPN 300 solution. You can also use copper fungicide for the
same problem. To prevent the pest from spreading, cut off the infected parts
and burn them.
The aphid is another harmful pest. To control aphids, spray the trees with
either Malathion solution (3 tablespoons in 5 gallons water), Methyl
Parathion (2 tablespoons in 5 gallons water), or Diazinon (3 tablespoons in
5 gallons water). If aphids have already attacked, cut off the infected
portions and burn them.
Other harmful pests are the Purple Scale and Glover's Scale. Insecticides
effective in controlling these pests include: EPN (3 tablespoons in 5 gallons
water), lime sulfur (15 tablespoons in 5 gallons water), Malathion (3
tablespoons in 5 gallons water), or Methyl Parathion (2 tablespoons in 5
gallons water).
DISEASES 6) Calamansi is prone to diseases such as Gummosis and
AND THEIR citrus scab. Gummosis is caused by either a lack or
CONTROL excess of fertilizer or damage done by insect pests or farm machineries. To
control both of these diseases, spray the plant with Zerlate or any
recommended fungicide solutions.
HARVESTING 7) Calamansi trees will start to bear fruit after one or two
THE FRUITS years. To harvest, detach the fruits from the branch either manually or
using a scissor. Take care not to damage the branches or the leaves. You
will have better quality fruit if you leave a portion of the stem attached to the
fruit and do not tear the skin of the fruit when you harvest.
You can sell the extra fruits in markets, hotels or restaurants. Use calamansi
in your daily intake of fruit drinks.
HOW TO GROW CASSAVA (MANIHOT ESCULENTA)
IMPORTANCE 1) Cassava, locally known as "kamoteng kahoy" or "balanghoy," deserves
more attention than it presently receives. It has many different uses, and
even its by-products can be used.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of cassava grown throughout the country. For
food production, the following are recommended by the experts: Golden
Yellow, Katabang, Macan, and Brazil. If you want to grow cassava for starch
production, plant Java Brown or Hawaiian 5. Other common varieties
include Rough Intermediate, White Smooth Intermediate, Kapo White, Kapo
Colorado, Aipin Manteiga, and Vasscurinha. The poisonous variety is called
Bogor
CLIMATIC 3) You can grow cassava any time of the year. But you can
RANGE not grow cassava in a very cool area with a high altitude. For optimum
growth and best performance, plant cassava in a warm climate with a
well distributed rainfall of 1,000 to 2,000 millimeters per year.
TYPE OF 4) Cassava grows in different kinds of soils, but for best
SOILS root development you need to plant it in a deep, well drained, easily
crumbled soil._ _
PROPAGATION 5) Cassava is planted through stem cuttings. The best planting materials
come from healthy and mature plants at least 1.5 meters high. The stem
with brown bark can be cut into 18-inch planting material. The stem among
the leaves should not be used.
As soon as you get the trunks and cut them into planting materials,
you need to plant them immediately before they dry out and lose their
vigor. But you can store the cuttings for up to 10 days provided you
bundle them under a wet cloth or other covering.
LAND 6) Prepare your land for planting cassava in the same way as
PREPARATION you do for other crops. Be sure to plow deep or dig with a shovel to
enable the tubers to grow big. Usually plowing and harrowing are
done twice or three times depending on the soil and how many weeds
you have.
PLANTING 7) You should plant cassava at the end of the dry season or
SEASON at the start of the rainy season. This will ensure that the cuttings you
planted will get enough water to sprout and grow well.
PLANTING 8) You can plant cassava cuttings 100 centimeters between
DISTANCES rows and 75 centimeters between plants in the row. Where ridge
planting is used, the distance between ridges is usually 120
centimeters.
METHODS OF 9) If the soil is dry, plant the cuttings lying down and
PLANTING cover with soil to prevent them from drying up. If the soil is moist, you
can plant the cuttings standing with about five centimeters of the tops
above the soil. Planting the stem cutting in a slanted position is the
desired method of planting. This allows uniform distribution of tubers
and makes harvesting easier.
WEEDING 10) Weeds usually develop in the cassava field, especially after it
rains. The first weeding should be done as early as two weeks after
planting, and the second weeding one month after planting. Then
weed the field for the last time two months before harvesting.
CULTIVATION 11) Cultivate your cassava field three weeks after planting either with the
use of hand tools or by passing a carabaodrawn
plow between rows.
Cultivation is done to kill the weeds and to break the soil that has hardened
due to rain. Avoid cultivating the field two months after planting since the
tubers will have started to develop.
FERTILIZA- 12) The usual rate of fertilizer is 50 to 100 kilos of
TION nitrogen per hectare, plus 50 to 100 kilos of phosphorous, and 75 to 120
kilos of potassium...but cassava has the ability to produce on very poor soil.
PEST 13) Cassava is one of the most insect-resistant plants in
CONTROL agriculture. Spider mites, mound building termites, cerambycid borers, corn
silk beetles, scale insects, mealy bugs, and white-¬flies occasionally attack
cassava, but you can control them by using insecticides such as Malathion
or Sevin, following the manufacturer's recommendations.
DISEASE 14) Disease incidence in cassava fields is very rare.
CONTROL However, the following are reported to be attacking cassava
occasionally: cercospora leafspot, bacterial blight, tuber rot, and tip blight.
These diseases can be controlled or eliminated by spraying affected plants
with fungicides such as Manzate and Parzate.
HARVESTING 15) Varieties used for food may be harvested as early as 4 months after
planting. If the entire field is to be harvested at one time, you need to cut the
stems just before harvesting. After doing this, you can start pulling them by
hand or with the aid of hand tools. If progressive harvesting is to be done,
select only the marketable tubers from a plant. Then replace the soil to
cover the hole.
STORING 16) The cassava root has a very high perish ability. Cassava tubers should
be milled into starch or consumed as food within twenty-four hours after
harvest or they will deteriorate. You can, however, store cassava tubers by
putting them in a dark place. Or you can bury them directly in either clay
loam or sandy soil.
HOW TO FATTEN CATTLE IN YOUR BACKYARD
INTRODUCTION 1) Cattle raising is a profitable project you can make in your home lot. It will
provide you a good source of extra income while working on your farm.
CATTLE BREEDS 2) Our native stock, the so-called Philippine cattle, is a dual-purpose type. It
is raised for beef purposes and can be used in plowing the field. The most
popular of our native cattle is the Batangas strain. Other recommended
breed of cattle for fattening is the Brahman.
FEEDER STOCK 3) In selecting feeder stock, carefully consider the following: the
SELECTION price of the animal at various ages, its weight, and its quality.
Buy an animal that is active and healthy. The eyes should be bright, the hair
coat soft and smooth, and the nose and jaws moist.
BUYING 4) It is generally cheaper to buy feeder stock directly from ranches
FEEDERS than in a livestock market.
Feeder cattle are classified as steers, bulls, heifers or cows. Bulls are uncastrated
males, steers are castrated males and heifers or cows are
females. Generally bulls grow faster than steers or heifers but they are more
difficult to handle.
VACCINATION 5) Stock should be properly vaccinated before you bring them home for
fattening. Refer them to the nearest Bureau of Animal Industry (BAI) office
in your area for vaccination against hoof-and-mouth disease and
hemorrhagic septicemia.
FEEDING 6) In feeding beef cattle, economy is very important. Farm-grown forage is
cheap, so it is very important that you grow your own forage crops. In
addition to forages (legumes and grasses), the cattle should also be given
grain supplements.
CONFINING 7) Confine newly-arrived feeder stock as soon as possible
NEWLY-ARRIVED in a shed or small lot where water is available. Allow
FATTENER them to eat all the low-energy feed that they can consume.
DEWORMING 8) A week after their arrival, the cattle should be de-wormed with
AND Benzimidazole compounds (Albendazole, Fenbendazole,
IMMUNIZATION Parbendazole, or Oxfendazole). In addition, immunize the animals from
major infectious diseases. Spray the feeder stock with insecticides to do
away with parasites like ticks and blood-sucking fleas.
CARE AND 9) Make water and salt available at all times. Be alert for signs of
MANAGEMENT illness. If you observe sick animals, isolate them right away.
MARKETING 10) Cattle are ready for market at about 275 to 325 kilograms.
HOW TO GROW COFFEE (COFEA SPP.)
INTRODUCTION 1) Coffee is one of the favorite hot drinks of Filipinos. Only a very few
homes from north to south of the country are without coffee to grace their
tables.
VARIETIES 2) There are four commercially known varieties of coffee grown in the
country: Arabica, Liberica, Excelsa, and Robusta.
SOIL 3) Plant coffee in a soil that is deep sandy clay loam, rich in humus,
REQUIREMENTS and with good drainage. Soil of volcanic origin is best. The tree
suffers severely in areas that are water-logged or where the water level
stays near the soil surface.
CLIMATIC 4) An environment which has a free air movement is most
REQUIREMENTS favorable to the plant's growth. Arabica can be planted 900 to 1,800
meters above sea level while Robusta, Liberica, and Excelsa can be planted
from sea level up to 900 meters above sea level.
SEED 5) Always get seeds from healthy and high-yielding trees.
SELECTION Choose only large and fully ripe berries. Avoid dry, overripe berries
left on branches. Small wrinkled, lightweight and abnormal berries should
not be used.
PROPAGATION 6) Remove the pulp from the seeds and plant them in plastic bags filled with
a fertile soil medium. When your seedlings develop six pairs of true leaves,
they are ready for transplanting.
VEGETATIVE 7) Coffee can also be propagated asexually through cloning.
PROPAGATION To reproduce a clone, split lengthwise into two halves a finger-sized vertical
shoot about one foot long with 4 to 6 nodes. Cut leaves partially before
splitting. Set nodal cuttings in germination boxes 1 x 2 inches apart and 1
inch deep, then place boxes in a shaded area. Nodal cuttings will produce
roots and shoots within 45 days. Then transplant seedlings into individual
plastic bags with soil. A full-grown seedling with 4 to 6 pairs of leaves could
be attained in about 6 to 8 months.
LAND 8) Prepare your land by plowing and harrowing and then by
PREPARATION digging holes. The holes for your coffee should be about 30 centimeters in
diameter and 30 centimeters deep, depending on the size and height of your
seedlings.
PLANTING 9) The distance between holes depends on the variety and
DISTANCE pruning system adopted. Here are the suggested distances for planting:
Arabica, 2-3 meters; Robusta, 3-4 meters; and Excelsa and Liberica, 4-5
meters.
FERTILIZATION 10) The general recommendation for non-bearing trees in the absence of
soil analysis is an equal amount of NPK and ammonium sulfate or urea
(from 250 to 300 grams per tree per year); and for bearing trees (7 years
and above) one kilo of 14-14-14 per tree per year plus urea side dressed at
the rate of 300 grams per tree per year.
For one to two-year-old trees, make a furrow five centimeters deep around
the plant, place recommended fertilizer in a continuous band and cover with
soil.
For fruit-bearing trees, apply the recommended fertilizer in holes or trenches
around the trees or spread the fertilizer over the area one-half meter away
from the trees.
WEEDING 11) Weeds compete with coffee plants for nutrients in the soil. Control
weeds by weeding about one meter around each plant.
PRUNING 12) This means the removal of unnecessary branches (excess, old and
dead branches) and undesirable water sprouts. Pruning is best done before
general flowering or after harvest.
MULCHING 13) Mulching your coffee plants improves soil texture, nutrients, and water
absorption and retention. It also minimizes soil erosion and lowers soil
temperature. The mulch should be as thick as possible and done
continuously.
COVERCROPPING 14) Non-climbing crops like ”Desmodium heterophylum ” or “Arachis pintoi ”
can increase organic matter, hold water and minimize soil erosion under
your coffee. The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center is one good source of
cuttings of hetero and wild peanut. Cover crops which compete with coffee
for nutrients and moisture should be used only in between rows to minimize
soil erosion.
INSECT CONTROL 15) Insects such as coffee berry borer, coffee leaf folder, scale insects, stem
borers and leaf miners cause damage in coffee. Chemicals like Malathion
and Gusathion will control these insects. Follow the recommendations on
the label.
CONTROL OF 16) Coffee rust and other diseases can be controlled by
DISEASES using copper base fungicides.
FLOWERING 17) Arabica coffee flowers in about two and one-half to three years after
transplanting. Other varieties flower somewhat later.
HARVESTING 18) Berries mature in a shorter period in lower and warmer areas than in
higher and cooler areas. Arabica berries mature after 10 to 11 months from
flowering. Robusta takes 10 months and Liberica and Excelsa, 11 to 12
months. The first harvest, however, is not yet commercial in quantity or
quality.
HOW TO GROW CORN (ZEA MAYS)
IMPORTANCE 1) Corn, or “mais” as it is commonly referred to in the Philippines, is a food
crop that is rich in starch or carbohydrates but comparatively low in
protein. It is the second staple food in the country, next to rice, but contains
more vitamin A, protein and fats than rice.
Aside from being used as a staple food, corn is also utilized for animal feeds
and can be made into oil, corn syrup, fuel, paper, and many other products.
VARIETIES 2) There are many recommended and available varieties for production.
Hybrids (HV) are available and have potential high yields, however, they
usually require high inputs and are more susceptible to diseases. Open
pollinated (OP) varieties are usually lower yielding but are true-to-type in
that the seeds can be saved over and over and still produce the same
variety with little or no loss of yield and characteristic. Composite varieties
are popular in that they are a step above open pollinated varieties but still
not dependent on chemical inputs for good yields.
Our favorite open pollinated varieties used at the RLC include: Tiniguib (a
traditional white corn) and Hawaiian Super Sweet (a delicious sweet corn for
eating). These varieties can easily be grown and perpetuated by the local
farm family.
Our favorite composite varieties include: DMR 1 and 2 (Downy Mildew
Resistance) and USMARC 1 and 2. These are proven local composites that
have good food and feed values. Each has a yellow and a white variety. The
yellow corn is usually used for feed. The white for human consumption.
CLIMATIC 3) Corn grows best in a warm sunny climate with sufficient
RANGE water supply. A rainfall of 200 mm to 1500 mm is needed during its
growing period.
SOILS 4) The best soil for corn is one which is well drained and with a texture of silt
loam or loam type. Light sandy soils, gravelly soils and heavy clays do not
induce healthy root development. Soil which is deep, well pulverized, and
yet fairly compact is excellent for corn.
LAND 5) Plowing should be done when the soil is moist. For an
PREPARATION animal-drawn plow, a depth of 4-6 cm is enough. The field should be
harrowed after plowing and again within two days before planting to level
the soil.
PLANTING 6) The two most common methods of planting corn are:
METHODS a) surface or flat-bed planting in which seeds are drilled or hill-planted; b)
ridge planting in which the seeds are placed on top of the ridge. In sloping
areas, corn should be planted in contour rows.
DEPTH OF 7) If the soil contains considerable moisture at planting
PLANTING time, the seeds should be planted from 2-5 cm. deep. In
dry soil the seeds should be planted 5-8 cm deep.
SPACING 8) You need 6-7 gantas (cups) of good seeds to plant a hectare.
The rows should be spaced at 75 cm with hill spacing of 50 cm
with 2 plants per hill or drilled at 25 cm between hills with one plant to each
hill.
FERTILIZA- 9) Corn requires an abundance of nitrogen and liberal amounts
TION of phosphate and potash. It also needs considerable amounts of
calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. The recommended rate of fertilizer to be
applied per hectare is 90 kilos of nitrogen, 30 kilos of phosphorous, and 30
kilos of potash.
During dry season, it is advisable that you apply all the recommended
amounts of fertilizer just before planting.
A basal application and side-dressing application are recommended for wet
season. One half of the recommended amount of nitrogen fertilizer is
applied at planting time while phosphorous and potassium are applied in the
furrow and then covered. The remaining half of the nitrogen is side-dressed
4-5 weeks after germination or when the corn
plants are about knee-high.
If commercial fertilizer is very expensive, you can use leaves of nitrogen
fixing plants (tree/shrubs). One hundred kilos of dry NFT/S leaves can give
you 4.0 kilos of nitrogen, 2.0 kilos of phosphorus and 1.5 kilos of potassium.
(Three kilos of fresh NFT/S leaves produce approximately one kilo of dry
leaves.)
CULTIVATION 10) Cultivate your corn in order to control weeds. Weeds can also be
AND WEEDING suppressed by hand pulling, hoeing and by application of herbicides.
PEST 11) The following destructive insects will attack your corn: white
CONTROL grubs, armyworms, cutworms, corn borer, corn ear-worm, rice weevil,
lesser grain borer, flour beetle, rice moth, and maggots. You can control
these insects by spraying chemicals, handpicking, or removing and burning
infested corn plants.
DISEASE 12) Downy mildew, leaf rust, leaf spot, kernel blast, ear and
CONTROL stalk rot, bacterial leaf stripe, rhizoctonia disease, corn smut, and
pythium root rot are diseases that infect corn. Control them by planting
resistant varieties, by spraying chemicals, by removing and burning infected
corn, and by practicing crop rotation.
HARVESTING 13) Harvest your corn when the ears are mature. This is usually 110-115
days after planting. Remove the husk and dry to about 15% moisture.
HOW TO RAISE DUCKS WITH FISH AND SNAILS
IMPORTANCE 1) Ducks, fish, and snails can be grown together in the same pond without
these animals competing with each other for food. By growing them
together, you can maximize production and increase your income.
AREA OF 2) This depends on the size of your lot, but the minimum size should
THE POND be at least fifty square meters per dozen ducks.
POND SITE 3) Be sure to construct your pond in a site where a steady supply
SELECTION of water is available. It must receive sunlight throughout the day.
POND 4) When you dig your pond, see to it that the side where you
CONSTRUCTION drain the water is deeper than the other side. This will facilitate
draining your pond and harvesting the fish. Dig out just enough soil to
maintain a water depth of 1/2 to 3/4 meter. Use the excavated soil to
construct dikes. The dikes should be thicker at the base than at the top to
prevent erosion.
Next, install a water control gate near the water source and drainage canal.
Provide the gate with a wire screen with one-square-centimeter holes. The
screen should be placed before the gate door.
MANURING 5) Cow dung, pig dung, chicken droppings, duck manure, kitchen
THE POND waste, compost, and green manure such as green leaves and grasses can
be used to fertilize your pond. Spread the manure on the surface at the rate
of five kilograms for every 50 square meters.
You can also use commercial fertilizer. Broadcast evenly one-fourth
kilogram of urea and one-fourth kilogram of 12-24-12 on every 50 square
meters of surface.
FILLING THE 6) After applying fertilizer, let water into the pond and leave the
POND pond for two weeks to allow algae to grow.
STOCKING 7) For this project, the recommended fish breed is ”Tilapia
OF FISH nilotica.” It grows fast and starts breeding in five months. Unlike ”Tilapia
mossambica”, nilotica does not need frequent restocking in ponds and
separation of male from female fish. Stock 2-3 tilapia per square meter.
BUILDING OF 8) Construct the duck house in one side above the water of your
THE DUCK pond. For a pond area of 50 square meters, 12 to 15 ducks are
HOUSE sufficient. Provide two males and 10 to 13 females. Build them a house with
a floor area of 4 square meters or 6 by 6 feet. The floor should be made of
bamboo or wooden slats. In addition, build a swimming pen beside the duck
house with an area equal to the floor area of the house.
BREED OF 9) The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center recommends the
DUCK TO Khaki Campbell duck for this project. Compared to other
RAISE duck breeds, the Khaki Campbell is bigger in size and best for egg
production. If you cannot secure this breed, start with the native or Pateros
duck.
RAISING OF 10) Instead of becoming a full-fledged rural industry supplying protein for
GOLDEN APPLE the Filipino diet, the backyard raising of golden apple snail turned into a
SNAILS serious problem in rice fields. But while rice farmers consider golden apple
snail a pest, duck raisers consider it a good source of protein for ducks.
With proper water management and use of ducks, the snails can be
controlled in the rice fields. (See "How to Raise Golden Apple Snails.")
The golden snail contains almost all the nutrients that ducks need. Snail
meat provides protein and iron and its fat gives energy. The shell contains
calcium, phosphorus, vitamins and minerals. Ducks given good quality
snails have a very high egg production.
DUCK 11) The ducks are fed with a ration of one part snail, one
FEEDING one part rice bran, and one part palay (un-husked rice) or broken
corn. They should also be given green leaves like kangkong (Ipomea
aquatica) and leguminous cover crops.
DUCK 12) Feed and water your ducks regularly every morning and
MANAGEMENT afternoon. They will start laying eggs at five to six-months. Maximum
egg production lasts for 1-1/2 to 2 years.
Before gathering the eggs, first lead the ducks out to their swimming
pen. Then gather their eggs and clean their feeding troughs by scraping
wasted feed towards the water where the fish are waiting. The feeds will be
eaten by the fish, and duck manure will fertilize the pond and promote algae
growth.
SNAIL 13) Feeding is not a problem for golden apple snail. This snail
FEEDING eats almost anything: vegetables, tree leaves, aquatic ferns, and even
kitchen leftovers.
HARVESTING 14) Harvest full-grown tilapia at least once every two weeks. This
TILAPIA is both economical and necessary because if the fish in the pond multiply
too fast, the food for fish will become inadequate. This will result in small,
stunted fish.
CONCLUSION 15) This duck-fish-snail integration technology is an efficient feed conversion
project. Fish, duck eggs and snails can provide high protein food for your
family and the surplus can be sold.
HOW TO RAISE DUCKS
IMPORTANCE 1) More and more Filipinos are now raising ducks in their backyard.
OF DUCK Ducks are productive for a longer period of time than chickens.
RAISING Generally, only about one-half or one-third of the laying flock has to
be replaced each year.
Duck raising offers another advantage: The birds don't require any
complicated housing with plenty of windows, droppings-boards,
perches, nest boxes, etc. Generally, you can keep ducks in simple
sheds at night and let them loose during the day.
BREEDS 2) There are different breeds of ducks which you can raise: the
Philippine duck (commonly known as ”itik”), the Khaki Campbell, the
Indian Runner, the Peking duck, and the Muscovy. The first three
breeds are excellent egg layers. For meat production, raise either the
Peking or the Muscovy.
BUYING 3) Buy your breeding stock from reliable duck raisers in
DUCKLINGS your area. Start with day-old ducklings. But buy only birds with
steady legs, alert eyes and healthy-looking down feathers.
BROODING 4) The ducklings need to be warmed until they are 1 month old.
DUCKLINGS Do not allow the ducklings to get wet during their first month. The
temperatures for brooding are as follows: 95 degrees Fahrenheit for
the first week; 80 degrees for the second week; 75 degrees for the
third week; and 70 degrees for the succeeding weeks.
CARE OF THE 5) When your ducklings show signs of sickness, give them a DUCKLINGS
solution of three tablespoons of Noxal in one gallon of water for two to
three days. Withdraw medication for three days, then give it again for
another three days. Terramycin can also be used.
To prevent avian pest, immunize your ducklings with avian pest
vaccine which is obtainable from agricultural stores in your area or
from the Bureau of Animal Industry.
HOUSING 6) Provide each duck with at least 1-1/2 to 2 square feet of floor space.
FOR DUCKS The floor of the duck house should be covered with rice hulls, corncobs,
peanut hulls or any similar materials to make it dry and clean. A dry and
clean floor helps prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
ARTIFICIAL 7) Raising ducks near bodies of fresh water is ideal because of the
POND natural food that is available in rivers, irrigation canals, etc., but you can
raise ducks without a body of water. If you want to provide water for the
ducks to swim in, you may use clay or plastic water tubs or build a small
concrete pond.
FEEDING 8) One-day to six-week old ducklings should be fed with starter ration
containing 10 to 21 per cent crude protein. Six-week-old to four-month-old
ducklings should be given a growing ration with at least 16 percent protein.
Four-month-old ducks and older should receive a laying ration containing 16
per cent crude protein.
ALL-PURPOSE 9) Commercial feeds are good for your ducks, but they are rather
FEED FORMULA expensive. You can mix your own feed. The MBRLC recommends this allpurpose
feed formula: First class tiki-tiki (rice bran), 34 kilograms; ”binlud”
(cracked rice or corn), 30 kilograms; soybean meal, 15 kilograms; copra
meal, 8 kilograms; shell powder, 2 kilograms; ipil-ipil leaf meal, 4 kilograms;
meat and bone meal, 7 kilograms; salt, 500 grams; and Afsillin, 250 grams.
SUPPLEMEN- 10) Also feed your ducks plenty of chopped green leaves of either kangkong
TARY FEEDS (Ipomea aquatica ), camote (sweet potato), ipil-ipil (NFT/S) or cassava. Give
each duck at least 10 grams of chopped green leaves daily.
You can also feed fresh Golden Apple snails to your ducks. Studies at the
MBRLC showed that Golden Apple snails in the birds' diet help increase egg
production. (See, "How to Raise Ducks with Fish and Snails," for additional
information.)
SOME 11) Provide your ducks plenty of fresh, clean water all the time.
REMINDERS Do not directly expose the birds to rain. This will cause a drop in egg
production and make them susceptible to diseases.
If you provide a swimming pond, limit their water "playing" to two hours a
day. Too much playing will tire them and make them eat more feed.
Watering troughs should be placed above the floor level if you place the
ducks inside a house. This will prevent the floor from becoming wet and
messy.
Ducks are active birds and may run in circles if they get excited in the
dark. To minimize stampeding, provide dim lighting approximately
equivalent to a 15-watt bulb per 18.6 square meters (200 square feet) of
floor space.
GATHERING 12) Ducks lay eggs at night and early in the morning. It is advisable
DUCK EGGS to gather the eggs immediately after releasing the layers for their early
morning feeding. Ducks still laying should be allowed to continue nesting;
their eggs could be collected later.
CONTROLLING 13) Practice strict sanitation, correct feeding and proper care and
DISEASES management to ensure a disease-free flock. Immediately remove
ducks that avoid the rest of the flock or refuse to eat. Confine them in a
separate pen. Call a veterinarian or any authority. Ducks that die from
diseases should be buried immediately in a deep hole.
For more extensive information on duck raising, refer to our manual "How to
Raise Ducks for Food and Profit."
HOW TO GROW EGGPLANT (SOLANUM MELONGENA)
IMPORTANCE 1) Locally known as ”talong”, eggplant is cultivated throughout
the country
for its edible fruit. The fruit is a fairly good source of calcium, phosphorus,
and iron and a good source of vitamin B. It contains about six percent
carbohydrates and one per cent protein.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of eggplant you can grow in the country,
among them: Dumaguete Long Purple, Dingras Multiple Purple #1,
Economic Garden Long Purple, and UPL-Eg-2 (Tanglaw). Mindanao
Baptist Rural Life Center is growing the Long Purple variety.
ADAPTATION 3) You can grow eggplant throughout the year provided the soil is fertile and
well-drained. It grows in different kinds of soil but grows best in sandy loam
or clay loam soils that are rich in organic matter.
PROPAGATION 4) Eggplants are propagated by seeds. Plant disease-free and treated
seeds in a seed box or seedbed just before the end of the rainy season.
GROWING 5) Water the seed box or seedbed with fine drops of water using a
TRANSPLANTS sprinkling can. Make sure the seeds do not get washed out. Keep the
seedbed or seed box moist (not too wet nor too dry) all the time until the
seedlings are well-established.
LAND 6) Before transplanting the seedlings in the field or garden, prepare
PREPARATION the area thoroughly. Pulverize the soil well using a hoe or animaldrawn
plow.
TRANSPLANTS 7) Soak well the seed box or seedbed with water before
PREPARATION transplanting to facilitate lifting the seedlings. Then "harden" the
seedlings from 7 to 10 days. This is done by gradually reducing the
frequency of watering and by exposing the seedlings in the sun. They
should be allowed to suffer from temporary wilting before watering. A
hardened seedling will stand the rigors of transplanting better and will
resume normal growth much sooner than a non-hardened one.
PLANTING 8) Make holes with a trowel. Plant the seedlings on squares 50 to 60
TRANSPLANTS centimeters apart, each way. Set the young plants in the holes at a
depth of about 1 centimeter or at the level of the base of the
seedlings. Water, then firm again.
MULCHING 9) Mulching around the stem with rice straw or dried leaves is a very
good way to keep the soil moist all the time. In addition, mulching stops the
growth of weeds and eliminates the need for cultivation.
STAKING 10) If you plant eggplants during the rainy season, it is always necessary to
provide the plants with stakes that are strong enough to prevent the plants
from falling down to the ground. Tie the main branch of the plants to stakes
to keep the plants in place. Fruiting capability of the plants will be reduced if
the plants fall to the ground.
CONTROL OF 11) In the Philippines the most common and destructive diseases
DISEASES are bacterial wilt, phomopsis, and phytophthora root and fruit
rot. These can be controlled by planting healthy, resistant varieties or
spraying with recommended chemicals such as Benlate and Captan 50 WP.
CONTROL OF 12) The most destructive insects that attack eggplants are
INSECT PESTS stem borers, spotted ladybird beetles, leafhoppers, and flea beetles.
You can control these pests by practicing clean culture, crop rotation, and
spraying with insecticides
such as Gusacarb and Decis.
HARVESTING 13) Harvest eggplants before the fruits lose their purple color and while they
are still young and tender. Harvesting is usually done 3 to 4 months after
transplanting the seedlings. Late harvesting makes poor quality fruits which
are susceptible to rapid decay. Do the harvesting during the late afternoon.
HOW TO MAKE A FAITH GARDEN
(Food Always In The Home)
INTRODUCTION 1) The FAITH (Food Always In The Home) Garden plan was developed by
the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center for home lot family gardening. This
type of vegetable gardening can provide the necessary protein, vitamins,
and mineral requirements needed by a family of six. It is also designed to
require minimum labor. As its name suggests, there will be food always in
the home if the recommended plan is properly followed.
LOCATION OF 2) Select the most fertile area in your home lot. It should contain
THE GARDEN humus, a form of plant food. The types of soils needed for vegetable
gardening are: loam, silt-loam, or clay loam.
Establish your garden on a light slope to provide drainage, especially during
the rainy season. If the area is flat, dig drainage channels or ditches around
the planting site. Your garden site must also receive sunshine throughout
the day. Growing plants need sunshine to manufacture food. In addition,
the area should have a constant source of water. Water is very important
particularly during the dry season.
SIZE OF 3) The ideal FAITH garden is six meters wide and sixteen meters long
THE GARDEN (or approximately 100 square meters). If managed properly, a garden
this size is large enough for growing various kinds of vegetables
throughout the year to supply the daily needs of a family of six.
PLANTING 4) Divide the garden into three sections, with one-half of each section
SYSTEM held in reserve for replanting. Plant one section with short-term vegetables
that will be ready for use in two to four months like soybeans, tomatoes,
pechay, cowpeas, bush sitao, and sweet corn.
The second plot is given over to vegetables which can produce for six to
nine months, including okra, onions, garlic, eggplant, winged beans, golden
squash, alugbati (Ceylon spinach), and ginger.
Vegetables that will produce for 11 to 12 months are grown on the third
plot: patani (local or U.S. lima beans), kangkong (Ipomea aquatica ), camote
(vegetable variety), taro, cassava, and pigeon pea or kadios.
Along the boundary of the garden and in the yard, permanent and semipermanent
type plants are grown. Among these are malunggay (Moringa ),
papaya, kalamansi, Barbados cherry, and guava. For fencing purposes,
plant nitrogen fixing tree species (NFTS) like ipil-ipil, madre de cacao,
flemingia, and villosa. They can also be used as sources of green manures.
BASKET 5) The central feature in FAITH Gardening is a series of raised
COMPOSTING garden beds into which bamboo baskets are set about one foot in diameter
and depth. These are filled with a little manure (goat, duck, chicken, horse,
etc.) and some decomposable garbage (peelings of banana, corn stalks,
vegetable stalks, etc.), and packed with NFTS leaves. If manure is not
available, NFTS leaves alone can be stuffed into the baskets to provide
nitrogen and other nutrients. (For further details about basket composting,
read "How to Make Basket Compost.")
PLANTING 6) The time to plant seedlings around the compost baskets in your
THE FAITH garden plots depends on the state of decomposition of materials
GARDEN inside the compost baskets. If the materials at the bottom part are nearly
decomposed, you can plant seedlings immediately. But if most of your plant
materials are still fresh and green, plant seedlings two to three weeks later.
Since camote (sweet potato), alugbati (Ceylon spinach), and kangkong
(Ipomea aquatica ) are crawling plants, plant them in separate beds one
meter wide and six meters long with a distance of 50 centimeters between
beds. Plants should be set 20 centimeters apart. These leafy vegetables
are high in iron, calcium, vitamin A, and other vitamins and minerals. Your
family should eat some of these every day.
For patani (lima bean) and winged beans, plant two to three seeds per hill
around each compost basket. Patani and winged beans are the two main
protein producing plants in the FAITH Garden. Other plants which are good
sources of protein are soybeans, string beans, and bush sitao.
Golden squash should be planted in hills 1.5 to 2.0 meters apart. You will
need to construct a trellis for cucumber, patola (gourd), and ampalaya (bitter
gourd); otherwise the vines will become a problem.
Malunggay (Moringa olifera ) should be planted two meters apart along the
boundary of your FAITH Garden. The leaves of malunggay are very
nutritious and should be eaten often. Kalamansi, Barbados cherry and
papaya should be grown in your yard. In order to fight diseases, our bodies
need vitamin C, and these trees are very good sources of this
vitamin.
If you would like to know more about FAITH gardening, read our manual on
"How to Make FAITH Garden in Your Homeyard.”
HOW TO FEED SWINE
INTRODUCTION 1) Feeds constitute almost 80 per cent of the production cost of swine
raising. Because of this, you need to know what kind of feedstuffs you
should give to your pigs.
PIG RATIONS 2) Give your pigs the recommended amount of feed for their age (see
feeding guide). Be sure to feed regularly.
SWINE FEEDING 3) The following are the suggested amounts of feeds to be given to
GUIDE your pigs at different ages:
SWINE FEEDING GUIDE
Kind of Feed Age Weight Amount of Feed
====================================================================
Pre-starting 0-4 wks. 0.6-5.0 kg. 0.3-0.6 kg./day
Starting 4-8 " 5.0-10 " 0.6-1.5 "
Growing 8-12 " 10.0-60 " 1.5-2.5 "
Fattening/Finishing 4 " 60.0-85 " 2.5-3.5 "
Breeding - 60.0 " 2.0-4.0 "
Lactating 4- 6 " - 5.0-5.5 "
====================================================================
Source: ”The Philippines Recommends for Pork Production” (1976)
PIG RATIONS 4) Only give your pigs the feed which is necessary for their growth and
appropriate for their age. In this way you can be sure they grow well and you
can also avoid spending too much. Be sure to feed at regular times.
Your major feed should be hog concentrates which provide protein, amino
acids, vitamins and minerals. Sweet potato tops, kangkong and other green
leafy feeds are to
be given only as supplements. Mungo and other beans can
be used as substitute for soybean oil meal.
Fresh leftovers from the kitchen are good food for pigs. These may be rice
or corn, gills and entrails of fish, fruit peelings, sweet potato, and other
scraps. Fresh golden apple snails are also an excellent feed.
FEED 5) Swine can adjust well to almost any kind of feed. To the practical
FORMULATION swine raiser, there is no standard ration for any class of swine. The
formula can be adjusted if there is a change in the price of feed
ingredients or when one ingredient becomes more readily available
than others. The nutrient requirements of the hogs, however, have to be
satisfied.
In formulating swine rations, know the particular class of swine for which a
ration is to be formulated. Be acquainted also with the nutrient components
and unit prices of the available feedstuffs. In addition, decide on a suitable
combination of feedstuffs so that the ration will be palatable, safe,
economical and nutritionally balanced.
ALL-PURPOSE 6) A complete, all-purpose feed for swine has been developed by
FEED FORMULA the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center. Table 1 shows this formula:
====================================================================
Ingredients Volume (in kilograms)
====================================================================
Binlud (Ground corn) 10
Tiki-tiki (Fine rice bran) 57
Ipil-ipil leaf meal (Dried) 7
Soybean oil meal 8
Copra oil meal 15
Shell powder 2.5
Salt 0.5
Afsillin or Pigromix* 0.5
====================================================================
*Optional
FEED MIXING 6) Feed mixing is a simple farm operation. You can mix swine feeds on
concrete floors or in a mixing box with a shovel or any other suitable
equipment. Irrespective of the equipment used, it is important to mix the
ingredients thoroughly to produce a uniform mixture.
FEED 2) There are three methods of preparing feeds for your swine:
PREPARATION cooking, grinding, and soaking. Most popular among backyard swine raisers
is cooking, which If ever you have some questions regarding swine feeding,
please let us know. This makes the feed easy to digest, more palatable, and
safer to eat. Grinding the feed into particle size can also increase its
digestibility. Soaking is done only when the grains have hardened from
storage and are difficult to chew.
HOW TO RAISE DAIRY GOATS
INTRODUCTION 1) Goat raising is one of the simple low-cost food production projects
that a small farmer can get involved in._
BREEDS OF 2) You may start with a native goat and mate it with a purebred,
GOATS preferably a Nubian. From Nubia, in northeastern Africa, this breed
weighs about 65 kilograms. A superb breed for Philippine farms, its
does produce an average of two liters of milk daily. The MBRLC is
one good source of purebred Nubian stocks.
Philippines Native Goat - Small but hardy, it weighs about 35
kilograms at maturity. Its average daily milk production
is only 350
grams. Therefore, it is necessary that to improve its milk production
the Philippine goat must be upgraded with the purebred Nubian goat.
Dadiangas Goat - This breed--common in Dadiangas, South Cotabato--is a
cross between the native goat and other breeds like Nubian and Jumnapari.
Other good milkes include Saanen, Alpine, La Mancha, and Toggenburg.
A new, widely adapted meat breed is the Boer Goat from South Africa.
HOUSING 3) Dairy goats need a simple house for protection. It can be constructed
using local materials available in your area. Bamboo slats, ipil-ipil poles, and
coconut leaves make fine flooring, sidings and roofing, respectively. Nipa or
cogon grass can also be utilized for roofing.
Provide at least 15 to 20 square feet floor space per adult goat. Raise the
floor of the goat house about 4 feet off the ground to facilitate easy cleaning
and manure collecting. Remember, goats do not like rain and damp places.
FEEDS AND 4) Goats will eat almost any kind of green plants with a preference of leaves
FEEDING of certain trees. Green feeds like ipil-ipil (L. leucocephala ), Flemingia
macrophylla , Desmodium rensonii , Indigofera tyesmani , kudzu, madre de
cacao (Gliricidia sepium ), para grass, napier grass, and star grass should be
given to your goats daily. In addition, feed your dairy goats concentrates.
(First class rice bran mixed with leaf meal in a ratio of 2/3:1/3 makes an
excellent feed.)
_
It is important to provide fresh clean water and salt at all times.
BREEDING 5) The female goat (doe) comes "in heat" when she is about 3 to 4 months
old, but she should not be bred until she is 9 to 12 months old. Mating too
early retards the growth of the animal and the newborn may be difficult to
rear.
REARING THE 6) About one week before the female goat is due to kid (give birth), separate
KIDS her from the herd. Give her special attention and care. As soon as the kid
is born, observe the mother and see if she licks off the mucus covering the
kid's body and around the nostrils. If she doesn't, wipe off the mucous
material so that the kid could start breathing. Dip the umbilical cord in a
solution of 50% iodine and 50% alcohol to prevent infection. If the kid does
not succeed in sucking milk from its mother, bring it to the doe and induce it
to suck by opening its mouth. After the kid is about one week old, separate
it from the doe during the night so you can milk the doe in the morning to
provide milk for your family. Then leave the kid with the doe during the day.
DISBUDDING 7) Disbud the kid four days after it is born using the hot-iron
AND DEHORNING method. Adults can be dehorned using a dehorning instrument or by sawing
off the horn close to the skull. Consult a veterinarian or an agricultural
extension worker about the procedure. Disbudding is
important because goats with horns will fight and may damage each other.
HOOF 8) Your goat's feet must be trimmed regularly once a month,
TRIMMING unless they are in a pasture or outside. Use a sharp knife when trimming
goat's feet.
DISEASE 9) Goats are liable to cold and pneumonia. Young kids
PREVENTION often die of them. As prevention, it is recommended that some bedding
consisting of old sacks or rags or dried rice straw be provided.
_
_ Goats are also susceptible to stomach and intestinal worms. These make
the animals weak and sick and if untreated, goats die of them. De-worm
your goats every six months with Tetrasole and Triabenzole.
MILKING 10) Be regular in milking and feeding your goats. In this way, you
THE GOAT will teach the goats to be regular in their milk letdown. (Note: Let the buck
stay with the doe for a short period of time only. Otherwise, the milk will
have a goat's odor.)
Dairy goats may be fed before they are milked, while they are milked, or
after they are milked. It does not make any difference when they are fed,
but the most important is they are fed according to schedule.
DISPOSING 11) When castrated goats have reached the age of 9 months to one
THE GOATS year, they are ready for slaughter. Does can be butchered for meat when
their productivity declines (about 6-8 years).
RECORD 12)Keeping records of goat stock is a good practice. The
KEEPING records will provide you with information as to which are good milkers, which
are good producers of offspring, which are good meat producers, etc.
CONCLUSION 13) Raise goats and you can produce your own milk, butter, cheese, and
meat, plus a generous supply of fertilizer for your farm or garden. (For a
more thorough discussion of goat raising, refer to our manual "How to Raise
Goats.")
HOW TO RAISE SWINE
IMPORTANCE 1) Swine raising can be a profitable venture for a farmer who puts up a small
backyard piggery project.
BREEDS OF 2) Among the well-known breeds are: Yorkshire, Landrace
SWINE Duroc, Hampshire, Berkshire, and Poland China. Some newer breeds such
as the Hypor are “hybrids” and are now commonly available.
If you are a newcomer in swine raising, it is good for you to raise the breeds
popular in your area. These breeds are easier to replace and adapted to
the environmental conditions in the locality. You may also start
with crossbreeds because they do not require the technology
needed in
raising purebreds.
HOUSING 3) Pigs are easily affected by cold and heat. You need, therefore,
AND to provide a house that will protect your pigs from heat and rain.
EQUIPMENT
Construct your hog house on a slightly sloping and well-drained site so that
the area will not become too muddy.
You may also build your pig house at the site of a fishpond. The waste of
the pig goes directly to the pond which helps fertilize the tiny plants (algae)
that serve as food for tilapia.
If you are planning to build a permanent house, cement the floor to make
the cleaning easier and to reduce the presence of parasites and diseases.
Provide your pig house with feeding and drinking troughs and a farrowing
pen.
A 9 x 10 foot pigpen can accommodate one sow and her piglets or 10 to 20
growing pigs or 6 to 8 fattening pigs. The walls separating your pens should
be about three feet high for convenience in doing your work.
BREEDING 4) Select your pigs for breeding purposes at about 2 to 3
OF PIGS months old. Choose those that come from sows which are noted for their
mothering ability, are heavy milkers, and adapted to rugged conditions.
They must be healthy and in good form.
Start to mate them when they are about 6 to 9 months. Breeding them
earlier than 6-9 months is not advisable; it may disturb the growth and
shorten the productive lives of both the boar and sow. The mating should be
carried out early in the morning on the second or third day of heat. The sow
should be mated a second time the following day. Record the date of
mating so that you can calculate the expected time when she will farrow.
CARE OF THE 5) Give your pregnant sow a balanced ration including green
SOW AND HER feeds because the young piglets in her womb also require nutrients.
LITTER The sow will be pregnant for about 115 days. Ten days before giving birth,
transfer her to a clean and disinfected farrowing pen.
Provide bedding materials in the farrowing pen. Dried banana leaves, rice
straw and similar materials are good bedding materials. If possible, install
guard rails or a farrowing crate to prevent the sow from crushing the piglets.
During farrowing, the sow should not be disturbed. Farrowing may take as
long as 24 hours or as short as 5 to 6 hours. When the piglets are born, it is
sometimes necessary to wipe the nose and the mouth with a piece of clean,
dry cloth to remove the mucus.
The umbilical cord should be dipped into an iodine solution. In addition, clip
off the milk teeth of the piglets to prevent injuries to sows' teats which could
lead to infections.
FEEDING 6) Eight days after birth, start giving piglets small amounts of pre-
THE LITTER starter feed. This will get them used to eating a solid and well-balanced diet
early, thereby realizing their full growth potential. It will also help the sow
feed her young and prevent her from over-nursing.
CASTRATING 7) Two to 4 weeks after birth, castrate the young male piglets which are not
selected for breeding purposes. Castration is done to speed up the growth
of the animals which will be fattened for market.
WEANING 8) Wean your piglets when they are about eight weeks old. In weaning, it is
best to take the sow away completely out of sight and hearing of her young
ones.
SANITATION 9) Keep your hog pen clean. Strict sanitation and cleanliness
AND HEALTH produce disease-free and healthy pigs.
MANAGEMENT
Wash the pen with clean water every day and disinfect it regularly with lysol
(weak ammonia) solution or any reliable disinfectant. If a pig or piglet is sick,
isolate it right away. Allow the pen to be vacant for three to five days before
housing other piglets or pigs in it.
The common diseases of pigs are hog cholera, anemia, pneumonia,
diarrhea, parasites, and swine plague. Contact your BAI technician or
MBRLC extensionist in your area or the local veterinarian to let you know
how to detect, control and prevent these diseases.
MARKETING 10) When castrated male pigs and fattening females reach the age of 8 to
10 months old or about 100 kilograms in weight, sell them right away.
Unproductive pigs should also be sold.
HOW TO FARM YOUR HILLY LAND
INTRODUCTION The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center (RLC) has developed a technique
of farming hilly land which helps minimize erosion and restore soil fertility.
This technique is popularly known as Sloping Agricultural Land Technology
or SALT. (For a more complete explanation of the SALT system see our
manual "How to Farm Your Hilly Land Without Losing Your Soil.") Here are
the basic steps of doing it:
LOCATE THE 1) Locate the contour lines of the hilly land by using a carpenter’s
CONTOUR level mounted on an A-frame. (See page 3 "How to UPLIFT Your Small
LINES Lowland Farm" for explanation of how to make A-frame and locate contour
lines.) Space the contour lines from 4 to 6 meters apart.
PLANT 2) Plant two thick rows of ipil-ipil, flemingia, madre de cacao
LEGUMINOUS or any other leguminous trees (such as Desmodium rensonii ,
TREES/SHRUBS Leucaena diversifolia, Flemingia macrophylla, Indigofera tyesmani,
Gliricidia sepium , etc.) on cultivated contour lines. You can also plant
one row with ipil-ipil (Leucaena leucocephala ) and the second row
with flemingia or some other variety. The roots of these leguminous
trees will hold the soil. In addition, the leaves will provide mulch and
fertilizer for the crops.
PLANTING 3) The land between the double rows of leguminous trees is called
DIFFERENT a strip or alley. It is in the strip where crops are grown. Plant your
CROPS permanent crops in every third strip. (Also plant permanent crops on
the boundaries of your land.) Grow non-permanent crops in between
strips of permanent ones. To help prevent soil erosion while the
leguminous trees are still young, cultivate alternate strips and leave
alternate strips uncultivated.
PICTURE OF 4) This is how your hilly land will look if the SALT technique is
A SALT-ED properly followed.
HILLY LAND
TRIMMING OF 5) Once a month trim your leguminous trees to one meter from the
LEGUMINOUS ground. Gather and pile the trimmings at the base of your
TREES crops. These trimmings are excellent organic fertilizer.
ROTATE NON- 6) Rotate your non-permanent crops. Plant leguminous crops
PERMANENT (peanuts, beans, etc.) where non-legumes (corn, sweet potato,
CROPS pineapple, etc.) were previously planted and vice versa.
BUILD YOUR 7) You can do this by continually gathering and piling all
GREEN leaves, stalks, stakes, branches, rocks and stones at the base
TERRACES of the leguminous trees. This is a good way to anchor down
your precious soil.
HOW TO INOCULATE LEGUMINOUS PLANTS
IMPORTANCE 1) Legumes are the richest and cheapest common source of
OF LEGUMES protein among all foods of plant origin. The protein found in legumes
is a cheap substitute for animal protein. Legumes are recognized as
important food in the human diet and supplementary feed for livestock
and poultry.
EXAMPLES OF 2) Examples of leguminous plants are: soybean, mung bean,
LEGUMES peanut, hyacinth bean, lima bean, string bean, bush sitao, winged
bean, Baguio bean, cowpea, Mississippi silver pea, garden pea,
pigeon pea (”kadios”), and sesban.
SPECIAL KIND 3) Legumes are special kinds of plants. They have the ability to hide
OF PLANTS bacteria in their roots which form nodules ("numerous rounded
masses in the roots"). The bacteria present in these nodules catch
nitrogen from the air and transform it into usable form and supply it to
the soil to be used by the next crop.
Nitrogen is present in large quantities in the air. However, without the
aid of bacteria, plants cannot use this free nitrogen in the air. And
legumes are plants which consume large amounts of nitrogen. If the
nitrogen-fixing bacteria are not present in the soil, the legumes will
have to depend much on soil nitrogen, thereby depleting the soil of
nitrogen. But you can make these nitrogen-fixing bacteria, called
Rhizobiaoe, present in your soil by a procedure is known as
inoculation.
BENEFITS 4) There are several benefits you can get when you inoculate the
OF INOCU- seeds of legumes before planting. Consider the following:
LATION
* It will prevent early nitrogen starvation of your plants.
* The demand for soil nitrogen will be reduced.
* The grain and protein yields will be improved.
WHEN TO 5) You need to inoculate the legume seeds before planting:
INOCULATE
* When the legume you are going to plant has not been
grown previously in that location.
* If the leguminous plant which was grown recently on
the land lacked good nodulation.
* When a legume is to be planted on land currently
planted in non-leguminous crop.
* When the legume to be planted is a species widely different from those
which were grown previously on the land.
* When land has not been properly managed or has been
subjected to unfavorable natural conditions.
HOW TO 6) There are two ways of inoculating seeds. The first is done this way:
INOCULATE Put your seeds in a large container and moisten them with water. Sprinkle
with the inoculant and stir to ensure that it evenly sticks to the seeds.
Inoculation should be done in the shade within one hour before planting. Do
not expose inoculated seeds directly to sunlight to avoid killing the Rhizobia.
This is the second way: Well-pulverized soil from a field recently planted to
the same leguminous plant, which is positively known to have produced
plenty of root nodules, should be mixed thoroughly with the seeds to be
planted. Plant the seeds as soon as possible after they are inoculated.
WHERE TO 7) You can buy inoculants at your nearest Bureau of Plant
GET Industry (BPI) office or at the Bureau of Soils. You can also buy them at
INOCULANTS agricultural stores in your area.
INSPECT FOR 8) Every type of legume has its own type of inoculant. Be
THE KIND AND sure to buy the right inoculant for the legume you intend to
QUALITY plant. Check for the expiration date written on the package. Do not expose
your inoculants to direct sunlight but rather store them in a cool and dark
place.
SEE THE 9) You can see the effect of inoculation two to three weeks
RESULT after planting. You can pull up some of your plants and see the
nodules or "bumps" attached to the roots. These are where the nitrogenfixing
bacteria live.
HOW TO GROW PIGEON PEA (CAJANUS CAJAN)
IMPORTANCE 1) Kadios is grown in many places throughout the country. It is a rich source
of protein, vitamins and minerals and is recommended by nutritionists as a
substitute for meat and fish. It is commonly used in such native dishes as
”tinola”, ”binakol”, and ”guinata-an”. It is also a nutritious forage crop for
goats.
Kadios is a good cover crop since it helps give new vitality to barren,
overused land. Because it is a legume, its roots develop nodules,
which bring back nitrogen to the soil. Observations at the Rural Life
Center show that it can help control soil erosion.
CLIMATIC 2) Kadios grows best in places with a long dry season. It is a
RANGE drought-tolerant crop. In fact, kadios can grow in dry areas not
suitable for other legumes.
SOILS 3) Like other legumes, kadios can be grown in any type of soil, but it
prefers soils that are well suited to growth of corn and sorghum. Don't
plant kadios in waterlogged areas, for it will not grow well. Better still,
plant it in hilly or sloping areas.
LAND 4) Good soil preparation is a prerequisite for successful
PREPARATION production. All debris and trash from previous crops must be plowed
under well in advance to afford good decomposition of the organic
matter. Two to three alternate plowings and harrowings are
suggested for this crop.
PROPAGATION 5) Kadios is propagated by seeds. You can plant them at the end of
the dry season or the early part of the rainy season.
SINGLE 6) When planted as a single crop, you need to plant kadios in rows,
CROPPING at least five to six meters apart. Drop two to three seeds per hole.
INTER- 7) Kadios can be intercropped with either corn or sorghum. You can
CROPPING also plant kadios between rows of coconut trees. In Mindanao it is a
common practice to plant kadios on the embankment of the rice
paddies. It serves as a windbreak and a fence.
FERTILIZATION 8) Since legumes are soil-improving crops, some believe that a
fertilizer application is no longer needed. However, kadios has been
found to perform better when fertilized. Apply one tablespoon of 16-
20-0 per plant as soon as you see them sprouting from the soil.
WEEDING 9) Kadios has a reputation for competing strongly with weeds, but this
is true only with full stands after it reaches a height of about 1 meter.
In early growth stages you need to control weeds in order to
conserve soil nutrients and moisture.
PEST 10) Kadios is attacked by a number of root-rots and leaf and
MANAGEMENT stem diseases. The two major preventive measures that are effective
in controlling such diseases and pests are: (1) planting disease-resistant
varieties and (2) practicing crop rotation and removing and burning any
diseased plants. If you will remove the entire top growth after harvest (either
by feeding to livestock or plowing under), this will greatly reduce the amount
of disease present when the following crop of kadios is planted.
HARVESTING 11) You can start harvesting kadios fruits at about five months after
planting. You can harvest kadios for as long as 3 to 4 years.
HOW TO RAISE LAYER CHICKENS
IMPORTANCE 1) In the Philippines the per person egg consumption is 100 pieces a year.
But the nutritional recommended consumption is one egg per day or 365
eggs per person per year. Egg production is steadily increasing every
year, but it cannot keep pace with the demand.
BREED 2) You must be very careful in buying chicks and selecting
SELECTION the laying flocks. Be sure to buy good layers from reliable sources.
The White Leghorn and its strains, which lay an average of about 220-250
eggs per year, is the most popular breed for egg production.
BROODING 3) Brooding is the care given to chicks until they are able to live by
themselves. Place the baby chicks in a brooder house which has adequate
openings to allow fresh air to come in. Artificial brooding can be done by
means of an electric or lamp brooder.
The ideal temperature for the first week is 95 degrees
Fahrenheit. Then lower the temperature by 5 degrees
Fahrenheit every week until room temperature is reached.
Overcrowding may result in the loss of many chicks. It
is suggested that in a 5 x 5 feet brooder house you put only 50 chicks. On
the fifth month, transfer them to individual laying cages.
SELECTION 4) Selection involves the grouping of layers. Choose them very
OF LAYERS carefully. Only birds with large, well-developed bodies and those which are
vigorous and healthy and showing signs of early maturity should be kept as
layers.
LAYING HOUSE 5) Build individual cages inside a house located in a well-ventilated place.
The cages must also be well ventilated. Local materials like nipa and cogon
may be used for the roof of the cage. Bamboo or slatted lumber may be
used for flooring. The walls of the cages may be of wire.
The laying house should be dry, clean, well ventilated, comfortable and
quiet.
TRANSFERRING 6) Transfer the layers to the cages when they are 20 weeks.
LAYERS TO old or before they actually begin laying eggs. Transfer only the
THE CAGES healthy layers -- those which are strong and alert with sharp eyes,
good feathers and yellow bills and legs.
FEEDS AND 7) The principal types of feeds which are available commercial
FEEDING are: starting mash, growing mash, and laying mash. These feeds
come in the form of meal, but some factories make them into pellets
or small pills which are broken into smaller pieces called crumbles.
Those who cannot afford to buy commercial feeds may mix their own.
One formula which you can follow is:
Ingredients Starter Mash Growing Mash Laying Mash
” (1 day - 2 mo) (3-5 mo) (6 mo. up)
Fine tiki-tiki 32 kilos 50 kilos 32 kilos
Corn meal 20 " 18 " 28 "
Soybean meal 30 " 14 " 12 "
Copra meal 8 " 8 " 8 "
Ipil-ipil meal 6 " 6 " 4 "
Meat & bone meal 2 " 2 " 2 "
Limestone 2 " 2 "
Salt .4 " .6 " .5 "
Afsillin .2 " .2 " .5 "
CONTROL OF 8) You must be aware of the common poultry diseases and
DISEASES AND parasites so that you can plan a systematic program of
PARASITES prevention and care. The common diseases are Coccidiosis, Avian Pest,
Roups and Fowl Cholera. The common parasites are cecal worms, round
worms, lice and mites. A recent illness that comes around from time to time
and is various serious is called Avian flu.
Coccidiosis is the most serious disease of chicks. Cocciodiostats like
sulfamethazine are the best cure. Chicks must be kept dry. Vaccination is
the prevention for Avian Pest and Cholera. It is very important that you
keep the surroundings very clean. surroundings and employing sanitary
methods. Dead birds suspected of having been infected with these
diseases should be burned.
The most serious internal parasites are large round-worms and cecal
worms. De-worm chickens affected by large roundworms. The most
important thing is to keep cages and equipment thoroughly cleaned and
disinfected. In case of lice and mice infection, the best control is spraying
with insecticide.
MAINTAINING 9) Separate the poor layers from the good ones. To maintain a
QUALITY LAYERS continuous supply of eggs the whole year, layers have to be changed.
Layers are most productive only during their first year. It is necessary to
start raising another group of layers 6 months before the old layers are to be
changed.
GATHERING 10) Gather the eggs not less than 3 times a day. During hot
AND STORING days, eggs should be gathered immediately. Group the
EGGS eggs according to size. Clean the dirty ones and store them in a cool
place. (A storage temperature of 100 to 15.6 degrees Centigrade is ideal.)
HOW TO GROW MANGOSTEEN (GARCINIA MANGOSTANA)
IMPORTANCE 1) One of the most delicious fruits in tropical areas, mangosteen is greatly
valued for its white, juicy, sweet pulp. Mangosteen preserves and candy
bars are popular among local and foreign tourists.
ADAPTATION 2) In the Philippines, mangosteen is grown on a large scale in Mindanao.
But it can be grown throughout the country. However, any temperature
lower than 20 degrees Centigrade slows down its growth.
PROPAGATION 3) Mangosteen is commonly propagated by seeds. However, it takes from
10 to 15 years for a mangosteen propagated by seeds to bear fruits.
Marcotted trees bear fruit in eight to nine years after planting.
SOIL 4) Plant mangosteen in rich, porous, deep, well-drained soil. The best
REQUIREMENTS soil is heavy clay with a generous mixture of sand and silt. The tree is
especially suited for planting along river banks, canals, ponds, and lakes.
PLANTING 5) Plant the seedlings at the start of the rainy season. Ideally, the
trees should be spaced seven by seven meters between plants and eight by
ten meters between rows.
SHADING 6) Partial shade is desirable during the first years of the tree's growth to
prevent premature death. Dried coconut
palm is a good shading material.
WEEDING 7) Weed the area around the trees at least twice a year. In the dry
AND season, cover the area around the trees with mulch to reduce
MULCHING moisture loss from the soil and to control weeds. The mulch will also
cushion the impact of falling fruit, preventing damage during fruit harvest.
WATERING 8) During the dry season, water the trees twice a month. Trees growing near
ponds or streams, however, don't need watering.
FERTILIZATION 9) Apply generous amounts of nitrogen fertilizer to promote vegetative
growth. Also, apply compost around the plants to enrich the soil.
INTERCROPPING 10) In large plantings, plant intercrops like peanut, soybean, winged
bean, and other leguminous field crops.
PEST 11) Look out for insects like mites, aphids, fruit borers, and flies and
MANAGEMENT diseases like anthracnose and bacterial leaf spot. To control pests, use
Methyl Parathion, Malathion, and Diazinon at the rate of two to three
tablespoons in five gallons of water. Use Manzate and Dithane Z-78 to
check fungus.
Rats and bats damage fruit by eating the pulp and seeds. The best control
method is to keep the orchard as clean as possible and to use the poison
baiting method against rats.
HARVESTING 12) Harvest mangosteen fruits when they are fully ripe. This is when the
cortex (covering) of the fruit changes from green to reddish purple. Unlike
most perishable fruit crops, mangosteen fruits picked when fully ripe can
stay fresh for several weeks under refrigeration.
HOW TO GROW OKRA (HISBISCUS ESCULENTUS)
IMPORTANCE 1) Okra is a vegetable crop that has proved to be very profitable. If properly
managed, a crop can provide fresh and delicious young okra fruits and a
year-round income to a farm family.
UTILIZATION 2) Okra can be eaten boiled, broiled, or fried. It is also widely used as an
ingredient in ”pinakbet”, a famous Ilocano dish. Young okra fruits are also
used in salads
and in many meat and fish dishes.
ADAPTATION 3) Okra can tolerate a wide range of soils but for good yield, grow okra in
silty to clay loam soils that are well-drained and contain adequate organic
matter. It likes a long, warm growing season.
VARIETIES 4) The recommended varieties of okra which you can grow in your farm or
garden are as follows: Perfected Perkins, Emerald, Sabour Selection,
Smooth Green, Climson Spineless, Lavelna, Lady Finger, Long Green,
White Velvet, Levadian, and Perkin Dwarf.
LAND 5) Plow the field first and then harrow immediately. Let the field stand
PREPARATION for seven days to allow weed seeds to germinate and grasses to
decompose. Plow again and harrow immediately to break soil clods
not pulverized in the first plowing. Let the field stand for another seven days
to allow second-growth weeds to grow. Plow the field for the third time and
harrow immediately to obtain excellent soil texture.
DIRECT 6) Okra should be directly seeded in the field. Plant okra seeds in a
SOWING soil that is slightly moist. Drop two to three seeds per hill and cover
with fine soil. Plant your okra seeds in hills 30 centimeters apart with 60
centimeters between rows.
To get uniform plant population, replant dead or missing
hills three days after the seedlings emerge.
THINNING 7) Fifteen days after planting, thin the plants to two seedlings per hill.
Remove small and sickly seedlings by hand-pulling; be sure not to disturb or
destroy the healthy seedlings.
FERTILIZATION 8) To attain maximum yield, you need to fertilize your okra plants. In the
absence of soil analysis, apply 300 to
500 kilograms of 12-24-12 (NPK) per hectare. Put 5 to 8 grams per plant.
CULTIVATION 9) To cultivate, off-bar the field by passing a plow or hoe 15 centimeters
away from the base of the plants to a depth of 5 centimeters. Throw the soil
clods between the inter-row spaces. The plants covered by soil during the
off-barring should be saved by removing the soil carefully from the stems
and leaves.
PEST 10) Okra plants are attacked by several insects and diseases:
MANAGEMENT common cutworm, corn earworm, melon aphid, flea beetle,
leafhopper, eelworm, mosaic, root knot nematode, and pod spot of okra.
Protect your okra plants from them by spraying with chemicals following the
recommended dosage stated in the label, planting resistant varieties
and and crop rotation.
HARVESTING 11) Harvest fruits frequently when they are still young and tender. You can
commence harvesting usually two to three months after sowing. You can
get about 20 to 25 tons of fruits per hectare.
CONCLUSION 12) Plant okra in your farm now. This will give you an extra income while
doing other farm works.
HOW TO GROW PINEAPPLE (ANANAS COMOSUS)
IMPORTANCE 1) The pineapple fruit is eaten raw by most Filipino people. However, It can
also be made into a variety of products: jam, juices, preserves, marmalade,
”nata de pina”, frozen pineapple, dehydrated pineapple, and candied
pineapple.
ADAPTATION 2) Plant pineapple in an area where it can get plenty of sunlight. It will not
grow well and will not produce big fruits if planted in a shaded place. The
soil should also be fertile and well-drained.
VARIETIES 3) There are several varieties of pineapple grown in the country, among
them: Smooth Cayenne, Queen (also known as Formosa), Red Spanish,
Hawaii, Cabezona, Hilo, Sugar Leaf, Singapore Spanish, Natal Caning,
Buitzenzorg, and Bogor. Select the best variety for your area.
SELECTING 4) Select only planting materials (crown, suckers and slips) that are
PLANTING healthy, vigorous and uniform in size and shape. To prevent rotting,
MATERIALS sun-dry your planting materials for a week or two before planting.
SYSTEMS OF 5) There are three systems of planting pineapple. Select a system which
PLANTING fits your purpose best:
Single Row System - In this system, the plants are spaced about one to
one-and-a-half feet apart. Weeding, spraying and harvesting are easier.
The fruits are bigger, but the total plant population is lesser than the double
row system. The single row system can accommodate only about 30,000 to
40,000 plants per hectare.
Double Row System - This is the most common method of planting
pineapple. The planting materials are grown in double rows with paths
between them to allow entry for weeding and other cultural practices. The
spacing is one foot between hills and one-and-a-half feet within double rows
and four feet between rows. This system gives about 40,000 to 50,000
plants per hectare but the fruits may not be as big as in the single row
system.
Multiple Row System - This system appears like a big plot or bed with three
to eight rows of plants. The distance between plants in a bed is one foot
and the distance between beds is four feet. This system has a population of
about 50,000 to 60,000 per hectare but the yields are not as big as in the
single and double row systems.
FERTILIZATION 6) Pineapple needs nitrogen and potassium. Phosphorous is also needed,
but Philippine soils generally have sufficient phosphorous. During the first
month, apply one-half tablespoon of 0-0-60 plus one tablespoon of 20-0-0 or
46-0-0 per plant. Four months later, fertilize each plant with three-fourth
tablespoon of 20-0-0 or one teaspoon of 46-0-0. Apply one-half tablespoon
of 0-0-60 plus one tablespoon of 20-0-0 or one teaspoon of 46-0-0 per
plant. On the tenth month, fertilize with three-fourth tablespoon of 20-0-0 or
one teaspoon of 46-0-0 per plant.
CULTIVATION 7) Give regular light hoeing around the base and between your pineapple
rows to eliminate weeds and improve air and water circulation in the soil.
IRRIGATION 8)If your farm is irrigated, you may flood it for 12 hours once every 15 days
during the driest part of the year. There should be enough moisture in the
soil from flowering to fruiting; otherwise, fruit size will be affected.
DRAINAGE 9) If your farm is flat and has many low areas, construct drainage canals so
that the plants won't be injured by excess water after heavy rainfall.
PEST 10) There are few serious pests that attack pineapple. Disease
MANAGEMENT attacks are more serious than insect infestation. Major diseases
include heart rot, water blister, brown spot, yeasty rot, marbling, pink
disease and root knot. The insects are root-grub, mealy bug, armored scale
insects, mites, fruit and stem borers. They can be controlled and/or
eliminated by spraying affected and infected plants with pesticides
recommended by the manufacturers.
FLOWER 11) If you want pineapple to bear fruits out of season, here is what
INDUCTION you should do:
Mix two kilos of carburo in a big kerosene can of water. Then stir the
mixture thoroughly.
Be sure that only pineapple with 36 matured leaves or at the age of 14
months are applied with carburo mixture. Younger plants should not be
flower-induced because they cannot give good size fruits.
For your measuring cup, use a small sardine can. Pour one-half can of
carburo mixture on the heart of every pineapple plant with 36 matured
leaves.
Apply only once per plant. Do this in the late afternoon to avoid evaporation
of the chemical.
HARVESTING 12) Harvest pineapple fruits only when fully matured, usually when
they reach the age of 16 to 18 months. Care should be taken so that the
fruits are not injured during harvest.
HOW TO RAISE RABBITS
IMPORTANCE 1) Rabbit raising is one of the most simple, low-cost food production projects
that a farmer can get involved in. Rabbits are easy to care for and can
supply meat for your family as well as additional source of income.
SELECTION 2) Select young rabbits which are offspring of prolific (rapid multiplier) does
OF BREEDERS which know how to suckle or nurse their young. As for the buck (male),
select those that are aggressive and well developed. Both the buck and doe
should be vigorous and healthy and free from any defect.
Ideally, you should start with one male and two females. It is best to buy
them at two months old, right after they are weaned. Be sure to buy your
breeding stock from reliable sources.
HOUSING 3) For a home rabbit project, it is necessary to build hutches (cages). The
cage should be located in a quiet place. Avoid constructing the rabbit house
in an area where it could be hit directly by sunlight.
Each rabbit should have at least 8 square feet of floor space although 10
square feet is better. A good pen size is 2-1/2 feet long by 4 feet wide by 2
feet high. Each rabbit must be housed in separate pen. Buck and does must
be separated.
FEEDS AND 4) Rabbits are greedy eaters. Their diet consists of a mixture of legumes,
FEEDING grasses, camote tops, and tubers. Bean and pea leaves, kudzu,
centrosema, Japanese weed, and ipil-ipil are good sources of protein plant
material, although you must be careful not to give more than 5 percent ipiipil.
It is good to supplement with other available greens, so feel free to
experiment. But ”minimize feeding of kangkong (Ipomea aquatica) to your
rabbits.
You will also need to feed some form of concentrate to get maximum
production. Feed millers sell concentrates good for rabbits. Chicken feed
can also be used. If pellets are available, they can be mixed with other kinds
of feed.
Give 1 ounce of concentrate mixed with green feeds and leftovers to a 2-
month old rabbit twice every day.
Give 4 ounces of concentrates mixed with green feeds to
a more than 3-month old.
Provide plenty of fresh clean water and salt at all times. The rabbits drink
plenty of water, especially during lactation. Feeds should be given twice a
day: once in the morning and once in the afternoon.
FEED 5) A suggested mixed feed for rabbits is the following:
MIXTURE
Binlud (cracked rice) - l5.250 kilograms
Copra meal - 3.725 "
Ipil-Ipil leaf meal - l.000 "
Soybean meal - 5.000 "
Shell powder - .l25 "
Salt - .250 "
BREEDING 6) It is very important that you take the female to the pen of the male for
breeding. Do not place the male in the pen of the female. The male should
serve the female two times. If the female runs from the male, restrain her or
take her out and place her back with the male the following day.
In breeding, avoid the hot hours of the day. Breed rabbits early in the
morning (5:00 to 8:00 a.m.) or late in the afternoon (4:00 to 7:00 p.m.). Do
not leave the female in the pen overnight with the male.
KINDLING 7) Does will kindle (give birth) about 31 days after breeding. Place a boxshaped
nest (12" x 24" x 12") in the hutch one week before kindling. Do not
disturb the doe during kindling. Wait 24 hours after kindling to look at the
babies and to remove any that are dead.
At kindling time, the doe will be extremely nervous. Keep children, dogs,
cats, and other animals away.
CARE AND 8) When baby rabbits show signs of sickness, dissolve one-half
MANAGEMENT teaspoon of Sulmet in one liter of water. Give this solution for three days.
(Terramycin powder, animal formula, can also be used.)
The young rabbits will come out of the nest box after ten days and begin to
eat greens and concentrates at three weeks. After two months, they are
ready to be weaned. At this time, the mother should be rebred and the
young fattened to be butchered at five months.
RECORD 9) It is a good idea to keep records for good management and control of
KEEPING the stock. The basic information, which should be recorded are: age of the
doe, date doe was bred, expected date of delivery, and number of young
weaned per litter. You must know when to prepare the doe for kindling to
prevent the loss of her young. The more you know about each doe, the
better you will be able to distinguish between a quality doe and one which
should be replaced.
CONCLUSION 10) You can easily see the benefits of raising rabbits. They consume only a
little of your time, reproduce rapidly, and are a source of high quality protein
for your table. In addition, rabbit raising will provide employment of idle
hours of some members of the family, particularly the boys and girls, and
thus direct their excess energies to productive efforts.
HOW TO GROW RAMBUTAN (NEPHELIUM LAPPACEUM)
IMPORTANCE 1) Rambutan is one of the most exotic fruits in the world and is gaining
much popularity and wide acceptance in the Philippines since its
introduction at the start of the century.
VARIETIES 2) There are several cultivars grown on commercial scale in various parts of
the country: Seematjan, Seenjonja, and Maharlika. They are distinguished
from each other by the length of their spines, their shape, the weight of
edible fruit portions, and the ease with which the pulp separates from the
seed. Newer varieties that are popular are the Rongrien and S-2.
ADAPTATION 3) Rambutan grows well in the Philippines, particularly in areas where the
rainfall is well distributed. It also performs well in places having three dry
months or an average length of less than four months dry season.
Rambutan trees can tolerate many soil types, but for best results grow them
on a deep, well-drained, loamy soil.
PROPAGATION 4) Rambutan is propagated by vegetative means and by seed. Propagation
by marcottage is not advisable because when the root-bearing young plants
are transplanted in the field, a large number die. For rapid production of
high-quality rambutan trees, propagation by budding is recommended.
PLANTING 5) Prepare a planting hole large enough to accommodate the root system.
Before planting, it is advisable to mix some topsoil, fortified with 50 to 100
grams of commercial fertilizer or with a shovelful of well-rotted compost, with
the soil at the bottom of the hole. It is very important to have the crown roots
no deeper than they were in the nursery or in the containers. The soil should
be firmly packed around the roots and water should be used liberally to
avoid air pockets.
FERTILIZATION 6) The amount and kind of fertilizer to apply on rambutan trees will vary with
the age and condition of the tree, the size of the crop, and the environmental
factors including the soil. However, it is not possible to outline specific
directions as to the recommended fertilization guide. While the tree will grow
and fruit under conditions of total neglect, it very definitely responds to
fertilization. We have found rambutan to be very responsive to heavy
applications of goat manure.
PRUNING 7) In rambutan, like many other tropical fruit trees, very little pruning is
normally practiced. This tree tends to develop balanced branches which
makes it weak and subject to breakage whenever strong winds blow.
Branches with narrow angles are also common. Therefore, pruning is
necessary to produce a stronger tree.
HARVESTING 8) Generally, the fruits are ripe about 3-1/2 months or 14 weeks from fruit
set. The color of the fruit will change from dark green to dark red, reddish
pink or yellow, depending on the variety. Rambutan fruits do not all ripen at
one time. It is necessary to pick only ripe fruits. That is why, in most
orchards, harvesting is done three times a week.
HOW TO GROW LOWLAND RICE (ORYZA SATIVA)
IMPORTANCE 1) More than half of the world's population rely entirely on rice as a staple
food. Aside from its numerous uses as food, other products include fuel,
compost, mulch, and fertilizer from the hulls and rope, brooms, mats, sacks,
and hay from the straw.
ADAPTATION 2) Lowland rice is grown mostly on rather heavy clay soils. It can be grown
throughout the year provided there is a sufficient supply of water or a
relatively abundant rainfall--particularly during the growing stage.
SEED 3) One to three days before sowing, treat the seeds with any of the
TREATMENT following: Spergon, Arasan, Furadan 3G and Ceresan M. Be sure to follow
the recommended dosage in the label.
SOAKING AND 4) Soak the seeds in clean water for 24 hours and then drain. Spread
INCUBATING them uniformly to a depth of two to four inches over wet sacks.
THE SEEDS Cover the seeds with another layer of wet sacks to keep them moist and
warm. Maintain the moisture throughout the period of incubation.
You can incubate the seeds for 36 to 48 hours, but do not go beyond this
specified duration.
PLANTING 5) You can plant rice seeds in three ways: the wet-bed method, the
SEEDS so-called "dapog" method, and the dry-bed method.
FIELD 6) You need to plow the field at least three times in order for the
PREPARATION short stumps of grain left standing after harvesting to decompose and
for poisonous decay products to be eliminated before transplanting. Clean,
repair and mud line all dikes. Harrow the field twice to break up clods, bury
weeds, and to level and puddle the soil. Do the last harrowing one day
before transplanting.
TRANSPLANTING 7) Seedlings are transplanted in the field at the rate of two to three
seedlings per hill. If planted randomly, space the seedlings about 20 x 25
centimeters. In straight-row planting, there is no definite spacing followed.
(Normally, however, for wet season the spacing followed is 25 x 25
centimeters and for dry season it is 20 x 25 centimeters.
IRRIGATION 8) Water is a very essential element in rice production. However,
MANAGEMENT irrigation management practices depend on the amount of water
supply. If your area is greatly dependent on the rain, retain the water within
the paddy for as long as it does not reach a depth which can be dangerous
to the rice plants.
WEED 9) Weeds in rice fields may best be controlled by a combination of
CONTROL cultural practices like thorough field preparation, timely application of
suitable chemicals, clean cultivation of rice growing in rows, and hand
weeding. Control of weeds in other crops grown in rotation with rice is also
very important.
FERTILIZATION 10) During the dry season, the irrigated transplanted rice must be fertilized
with a formulation of 90+30+30 per hectare. For rain fed areas, clay soils,
the required rate is 60+30+0.
For wet season, the rate of fertilizer application on irrigated, transplanted
rice varies depending on soil conditions. However, the rate falls within 60-70
kg N, 30 kg P, and 30 kg K. Irrigated, transplanted rice requires 3 bags of
16-20-0 and 2 bags of 46-0-0 per hectare.
PEST CONTROL 11) The most common insect pests that will attack your rice crop are the
following: rice stem borer, leafhopper, rice whorl maggot, planthopper, grain
sucking insect, army worm, cutworm, rice leaf folder, and rice caseworm.
You can control these by planting resistant varieties, spraying of
recommended insecticides and sanitation in the field.
CONTROL OF 12) There are many rice diseases which threaten the rice plants,
DISEASES among them: rice blast, tungro, brown spot, bacterial leaf blight, bacterial
leaf streak, yellow dwarf, grassy stunt, and orange leaf. Preventive and
control measures include: spraying of fungicides, crop rotation, planting
resistant varieties, treating seeds before planting, and sanitation in the field.
HARVESTING 13) Some varieties can be harvested as early as 110 days af ter
transplanting (DAT). Others can be harvested 135 DAT. Only very few are
harvested 145 DAT. It is important that you know the characteristic of the
rice variety you have planted, particularly the date of maturity or number of
days after heading.
Usually the rice is harvested using a sickle (”lilik’ in Tagalog or ”garab” in
Visayan). The sickle is held in one hand for cutting and the other hand is
used for gathering.
THRESHING 14) Manual methods of rice threshing are foot treading by both man and
animal, rubbing action, flail threshing (”hampasan”) or beating on tubs, logs,
boards, or rocks (impact) and pedal threshing. ”Hampasan” is the most
common method where a handful of harvested stalks is beaten on bamboo
slats, stones, logs, or other objects for three to ten times, depending upon
the threshing characteristics of the variety, until all the grains are removed.
DRYING 15) Immediate and proper drying of newly harvested rice is necessary to
prevent spoilage losses and maintain seed quality. You can do the drying by
spreading the ”palay” on concrete floors or any other surfaces favorable for
drying.
HOW TO PRODUCE YOUR OWN SEEDS
INTRODUCTION 1) The propagation of plants is basically divided into two types: the sexual
(or propagation by seeds) and the asexual (or propagation using vegetative
parts of plants). This leaflet deals mainly on one aspect of propagation--the
production of seeds.
STEPS IN 2) In maintaining seeds of desirable quality, the Mindanao Baptist Rural
SEED Life Center is recommending these simple steps – a result of years of
PRODUCTION experience and actual work.
”Step One”: 3) Select the plants most resistant to pests and diseases, those that
SELECTION flower and ripen earlier, have more fruits or pods, and the type that you
need (as to size of the fruit, height, and other unique characteristics).
Selection should be done preferably a week before harvesting the entire
crop. Tag your selected plants with a bright-colored ribbon.
”Step Two”: 4) Harvest the seeds or pods when they are matured. This is usually when
HARVESTING the seed parts are fully developed.
“Step Three”: 5) In processing, carefully extract the seeds from their pod or fruit.
EXTRACTING Extraction may be accomplished by beating the pods, by threshing or
treading them under foot, by drying them under the heat of the sun, or by
manually opening the fruit and extracting the seeds by hand.
”Step Four”: 6) Drying under the heat of the sun is the most convenient to use. Dry
DRYING processed seeds (like mungo, string beans and other legumes) usually take
three days to dry under the sun whereas wet processed seeds (such as
tomato and eggplant) need to be dried for four days. In cases where there
is off-and-on sunshine, you can test the dryness of your seeds by biting one
of them with your teeth. Dry seeds are brittle and hard to bite.
”Step Five”: 7) After drying, select the best seeds, culling those with insect holes,
TREATING undersized or damaged in some way. Then treat the seeds with pesticides
SEEDS to prevent insects and diseases from attacking them. Sevin powder, an
insecticide, is generally used at one teaspoonful per three kilograms of
seeds. To keep fungus in check, Captan powder is recommended, following
the same dosage as Sevin.
”Step Six”: 8) After treating seeds, store them in airtight containers. In general, seeds
STORING have the ability to absorb water from the air for some time after drying. If
SEEDS their moisture content changes, this will result in a shorter storage life. Any
old, unused jar could be used for storage, but be sure to wash the jars and
dry them under the sun before using them.
”Step Seven”: 9) Testing the viability (or germination percentage) of seeds is important
GERMINATION before planting them in the field so you will have and idea as to the
TESTING quantity of the seeds you are going to use. If germination is poor, you need
to increase your seed quantity or discard the seeds.
METHODS OF 10) Germination testing falls under three methods: the rag-doll, the plate,
GERMINATION and the seed box. Below is a brief description of each method:
TESTING
”Rag-doll method” - In the rag-doll method, take 100 seeds at random from
the sample and place them in a piece of moistened cloth (about 12" by 18").
Then roll the cloth containing the seeds around a pencil-sized stick 18
inches long. After rolling, tie the edges to prevent the seeds from falling.
Place in a dark, cool place and keep moist.
After 7 to 10 days, open the rag-doll and count the germinated seeds. The
number of germinated seeds will be equal to the percent germination. If 80
seeds have germinated, the germination rate is 80 per cent. This means for
every 100 kilos of seeds, 80 kilos will germinate and the remaining 20 will
not.
”Plate method” - Cover a kitchen plate with 5-6 folds of tissue paper. Place
one hundred seeds on top of the tissue paper. Cover it with a second layer
of tissue paper. Sprinkle the covered seeds with water three times a day.
Follow the same procedure used in determining percent germination in the
rag-doll method.
”Seed box method” - The soil to be used in the seed box method should
composed of one part sand, one part compost and one part ordinary garden
soil mixed thoroughly. After mixing, you need to sterilize the soil by pouring
boiling water on the surface of the soil or burning dried leaves of banana on
top of the soil. Then plant the seeds. If you plant 100 seeds and 80 seeds
germinate, the germination rate is 80 percent.
CONCLUSION 11) Doing these simple procedures will provide you seeds of good quality--
seeds that will increase your production and your farm income.
HOW TO GROW SESAME
IMPORTANCE 1) Sesame is a major oil seed crop for the tropics and the subtropics. The oil
is used extensively for cooking, for direct use as food in dressings of various
sorts, and for lighting. It can be used also for the production of margarine.
CLIMATIC 2) Sesame performs best when the temperature is high throughout its
REQUIREMENTS entire growing period. An average daily temperature of about 26 degrees
Centigrade favors growth and fruiting. Seeds will not germinate when soil
temperature is below 21 degrees Centigrade. The plant is fairly droughtresistant
but it needs a minimum of 300 millimeters of rainfall in the entire
growing period.
SOIL 3) Sesame is adapted to a wide range of soils, but prefers well-drained,
REQUIREMENTS fertile, medium-textured soil. It grows in plains and up to an elevation of
1,200 meters above
sea level.
VARIETIES 4) There are two varieties of sesame grown in the country: the white and the
black varieties. Some high yielding white-seeded varieties that may be used
for oil extraction and for confectionaries and delicacies are Japanese white,
Guatemala white, Mexican varieties, and the white-seeded native. Most
black varieties are good for oil extraction.
LAND 5) Since sesame seed is small, it should be planted rather shallow on a
PREPARATION firm but mellow seedbed. All living weeds should be destroyed, and trash
removed or plowed under. Since the crop is usually grown in areas with
limited rainfall, land preparation should run across the slope to aid in
retention of rainfall and to minimize runoff.
PLANTING 6) As soon as the field is ready for planting, drill the seeds 50 to 60
centimeters apart for non-branching types, and 70 to 80 centimeters apart
for branching types to get better yields. To plant one hectare, you need four
to six kilograms of sesame seeds.
IRRIGATION 7) Irrigation is very important at planting time, but afterwards the crop
requires irrigation only once or twice during the growing period. However,
make sure water is available to the plants during the pre-flowering and prefruiting
stages.
THINNING AND 8) Seeds sprout from five to seven days after sowing. If there is a need,
REPLANTING thinning or replanting should be done two to three weeks after seedling
emergence, leaving two vigorous healthy plants in each hill.
CULTIVATION 9) When the plants are well-established three to four weeks after
AND WEEDING seeding, do the first cultivation. Carry out the second cultivation when the
plants are 30 centimeters in height. Then hill-up.
FERTILIZATION 10) To increase yield, fertilize your sesame plants. Apply
a balanced commercial fertilizer at 200 kilograms per hectare at planting
time. Organic fertilizer can also be applied at the rate of 750 kilograms per
hectare as basal application. The most common commercial fertilizers used
are urea, complete, and ammonium sulphate.
DISEASE 11) Frequent rains and high relative humidity may produce disease
CONTROL outbreaks on sesame. In areas having a moderate to limited rainfall, disease
prevention is feasible by two practices: (1) growing strains or varieties that
are resistant to locally prevalent diseases, and (2) field sanitation. Field
sanitation should include crop rotation so that sesame is not grown on the
same field
in successive seasons, and also the removal of all crop residues after
harvest. These practices greatly reduce the disease hazards. In extreme
cases, however, spray with fungicides.
INSECT 12) Prompt planting at the very beginning of the rainy season will
PEST CONTROL eliminate many or most of the insect problems. There are two preventive
measures that should be practiced: (1) planting of strains or varieties that
have resistance to the prevalent insect pests, and (2) removing all residues
immediately after harvest. These practices, combined with early planting,
will reduce insect damage.
However, whenever specific insects multiply to the point of serious injury, an
insecticide that is toxic to the species should be applied. Prompt treatment is
most likely to be effective. Be sure to follow the recommended dosage
written in the label. Never apply insecticides just before harvesting and
avoid using insecticides
containing sulphur for they affect sesame plants.
HARVESTING, 13) Varieties differ in length of growth period, from 85 to 150 days.
DRYING, AND Generally, however, harvesting starts as soon as the plants cease
THRESHING flowering, and the leaves have turned yellowish and are being shed. Since
Sesame capsules ripen unevenly and shatter (in the shattering varieties),
cut the crops when they are still green. Cut the plants at their bases. Tie
them in bundles. Place the bundles on mats and thick cloth when drying
them under the sun and beating them.
After threshing and drying the seeds, remove inert materials, weeds or weed
seeds, and deteriorated seeds by winnowing.
STORAGE 14) Dry sesame seeds down to 10 to 14 per cent moisture content before
bagging and storing them in open air. If the seeds are to be used for
planting, treat them with either fungicide or insecticide. But if intended for
food, pack the seeds in bags without treating and then sell or use.
HOW TO GROW BUSH SITAO (VIGNA SPP.)
INTRODUCTION 1) Bush sitao, a widely grown legume in the Philippines, can provide you
with a good source of income besides giving you a cheap source of proteinrich
food. This dry season crop is easy to plant and takes only a short
period of time (about one and one-half months after planting) to grow.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of bush sitao grown in the country. You can
plant any of the following: UPL-BS 1, UPL-BS 2, UPL-BS 3 (Sumilang),
UPL-BS 4, LBBS #1, E.G. #2.
LAND 3) Prepare the land thoroughly by plowing and then harrowing the field two
PREPARATION to three times. This will ensure healthy and uniform growth of bush sitao.
Make furrows 50 to 75 centimeters apart.
SEED 4) Like most legumes, bush sitao is propagated by seeds. If your seeds
TREATMENT have not been treated, you need to treat the seeds with fungicide and
insecticide before planting. Mix three to five grams of Sevin 85S and two to
three and a half grams of Orthocide 50WP with every one kilo of seeds.
PLANTING 5) Drill holes on each furrow and drop 3-4 seeds in each hole. The distance
between each hole should be 10-20 centimeters.
FERTILIZATION 6) Apply proper fertilizer to ensure a good yield. If properly fertilized and
managed, bush sitao yields as much as 8,000 kilos per hectare. The
fertilizers needed are: 30-50 kilos of nitrogen, 70-120 kilos of phosphorous,
and 30-50 kilos of potassium per hectare.
During the dry season, apply all the required fertilizer at seed planting. Apply
manually in bands 5-8 centimeters along the sides of each furrow and bury
5-8 centimeters deep.
If you plant during wet season, apply half of the required nitrogen and all of
the phosphorous and potassium at the time of planting. These should be
buried and spaced 5-8 centimeters from each furrow. Side-dress the plants
with the remaining amount of nitrogen three weeks after planting the bush
sitao seeds.
IRRIGATION 7) You need to water the field evenly and thoroughly to ensure uniform
germination and flowering of the plants.
WEEDING 8) Uproot weeds since they compete with your plants for light, nutrients and
moisture.
PEST 9) Control pests, insects and diseases that will attack your bush sitao plants.
MANAGEMENT Use insecticides and fungicides to fight them. Just follow what the label
states.
HARVESTING 10) Harvest the pods seven to eight days after blooming or when the seeds
are partly developed. This would be 40 to 55 days after planting.
HOW TO RAISE GOLDEN APPLE SNAILS
IMPORTANCE 1) The golden apple snail is much larger than the native kuhol and can grow
to the size of a human fist. In addition, the meat is very delicious. The native
kuhol has a thick shell while that of the golden apple snail is much thinner.
PROPAGATION 2) Golden apple snail culture is very simple. They reproduce rapidly. Each
cluster of eggs numbers about
125, and hatchability under normal conditions is about 80%.
ADAPTABILITY 3) The golden apple snail is adaptable to a high rate of stocking. You can
grow them in a small space with water one inch to one meter deep. In fact,
under intensive culture, the water level should be kept low so the snails can
extend their breathing tubes above the water.
CULTURE 4) You can grow golden apple snails in almost any pond or container. You
can start with small home lot ponds, concrete tanks, old aquariums or any
water container (wooden, metal or plastic). A container measuring 2 to 4
square feet and 1 to 2 feet high can be stocked with a dozen breeders.
Apartment dwellers can stock golden apple snails in plastic cans, drums, or
aquariums. People in subdivisions with garden pools or ponds can also
produce golden apple snails for home consumption.
Fish farmers can stock golden apple snails in freshwater ponds, nearby
lakes, fish pens, fish cages, irrigation canals, and paddies. Any pool or
container can be utilized as a grow-out pond.
FEEDS AND 5) The golden apple snail eats anything that decomposes. This means it
FEEDING feeds on almost any organic matter or aquatic vegetation. Kangkong
(Ipomea aquatica ) and azolla are found to be the best aquatic foods and can
be acquired almost without cost.
You can also feed them with duckweed, hydrilla, water hyacinth, grasses,
Ipil-ipil leaves, camote tops, kulitis, malunggay, vegetable scraps (pechay,
cabbage, etc.) as well as papaya and gabi (taro) leaves. They will also
consume your kitchen scraps (such as banana and papaya fruit peelings
and leftovers of boiled corn the cob itself), rice straw, corn stalks, etc. They
will feed and grow well on livestock and fish feeds like rice bran, corn bran,
and chicken mash, but these should be used sparingly as they are
expensive.
REPRODUC- 6) Depending on the size of the breeders, the golden apple snail can lay
TIVITY between 50 and 300 tiny, pink eggs, which are 2 millimeters in diameter.
The female lays eggs about two times a month. The eggs are bright pink
and will become whitish when about to hatch. Hatching takes 12-15 days
and maturation takes from 2©1/2 to 3 months.
COMPATIBILITY 7) The golden apple snail can be raised in ponds with other varieties of fish
such as tilapia and carp and with clams.
PREDATORS 8) Here at the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center we have observed that
the golden apple snail has very few enemies. In fact, the snails reproduce
well in nearby streams and canals. Though we have observed tilapia eating
the tiny baby snails, this does not interfere with snail population.
EGG-LAYING 9) The female snail lays a large number of eggs about twice a month in a
very peculiar way. She crawls out of the water at night or during late
afternoon and lays her eggs above the water. She will lay eggs on the sides
of the pond or container or on sticks, which have been placed in the water.
Place sticks 1 to 1-1/2 meters long and 2" to 4" in diameter in the pond for
the snails to climb on and lay their eggs.
POTENTIAL 10) Fresh snails are an excellent source of protein for ducks and hogs and
USE can also be utilized as feed for other animals. At present the Rural Life
Center is testing ways of using golden apple snails in duck raising. The high
cost of protein feeds is a limiting factor in duck egg production on Mindanao.
A system has been developed to raise snails in an economical way so
farmers can enjoy modest profit from duck raising. Test results show that
ducks raised on an ample supply of snails, first class rice bran mixed 50-50
with ground corn, and green forage sustain about 60-80% egg production.
NOTE OF 11) The golden apple snails attack one to two-week old rice seedlings,
WARNING starting from the base of the plants, then devouring the young leaves. In just
3-5 minutes, an adult snail can consume a whole blade of rice. Because
of this, it is recommended that rice should always be planted in an ”upright”
position if golden apple snails are present.
In areas where the snails have invaded the rice paddy, the farmer can bring
in ducks after harvest to help control the snails. You can also collect the
snails to be used as duck feed or food for your family. There are sprays that
are effective against snails if they become a problem in the rice field. You
can also drain the water from the paddy for one week in order to kill the
snails since they cannot live without water.
HOW TO GROW SORGHUM (SORGHUM VULGARE)
IMPORTANCE 1) Sorghum is a good source of extra income for farmers during the lean,
dry months. It is also a good substitute for yellow corn as feed for your
animals.
GROUPS OF 2) There are hundreds of varieties of sorghum but they are usually
SORGHUM classified into four basic groups: grain sorghum, forage (or grass) sorghum,
sweet sorghum (or sorgo), and broomcorn sorghum.
SOIL 3) Sorghum can tolerate various types of soils. It can grow well on heavy
REQUIREMENTS clay or light sandy soils and can tolerate waterlogged conditions for a few
days. However, a well-drained soil is highly preferable for best growth and
development.
CLIMATIC 4) Sorghum can be grown during both the wet and the dry seasons. During
REQUIREMENTS the wet season, planting should be timed so that harvest falls within the
early dry season.
LAND 5) A well prepared seedbed is necessary for a good stand, an effective
PREPARATION weed control and the conservation of soil moisture. Sorghum requires a
seedbed that is deep, well pulverized, and free from weeds at planting time.
PLANTING 6) Plant sorghum in rows 75 centimeters apart. Drop two to three seeds per
hill at a distance of four centimeters apart.
FERTILIZATION 7) In the absence of soil analysis, apply 100 kilograms of nitrogen (N), 50
kilograms of phosphorus (P), and 50 kilograms of potassium (K) per
hectare. One half of the recommended N and all of P and K should be
applied as a basal at planting time.
The remaining N is applied as a side dress when sorghum is already knee
high. Eight sacks of complete fertilizer (14-14-14) plus two sacks of urea
(46-0-0) per hectare will meet these requirements.
IRRIGATION 8) In dry areas, two or three irrigations are suggested, the first given 35 to
45 days after emergence, the second during the flowering stage and the
third during the milky ripening stage.
CULTIVATION 9) Cultivate the field at least two times and then hand weed the second
AND WEEDING cultivation.
INSECTS 10) Insects such as shoot flies, maggots, and thrips cause damage during
AND THEIR the seeding stage. Borers, sorghum midge, and sorghum head worms
CONTROL cause damage in the heading stage. You can control these pests by
spraying with chemicals like Lannate, Malathion, Furadan, Sevin, and
Basudin. Follow the recommendations written on the label.
DISEASES AND 11) Fungus leaf diseases including leaf spots, downy mildew, rusts and
THEIR CONTROL blight can cause problems--especially in humid areas. You can use resistant
varieties to control these diseases. In some cases, use chemicals like
Dithane M-45 and Tekto-90. Also, treat the seeds with Arasan before
planting. In addition, practice field sanitation and burn infested leaves and
stalks after harvest.
CONTROL OF 12) The most destructive pests of sorghum are the birds called “maya.”
OTHER PESTS They eat the developing grain but cause more damage when grains are
matured. Any practice to repel these birds is advisable.
HARVESTING 13) Harvesting is done about 35 days after flowering during dry season.
Grain sorghum intended for feeds is harvested 30 days after flowering, at
which time the grain moisture content is about 24 per cent. For seed
purposes, sorghum is harvested 35 days after flowering at moisture level of
about 18 per cent.
THRESHING 14) Sorghum panicles are harder to thresh than rice. Newly harvested grain
sorghum must first be dried to facilitate threshing. When the grain sorghum
has a moisture content of 14 per cent or less, threshing can be done
manually or mechanically. Many rice threshing machines of the hold-on
feeding type provided with a cylinder and wire loop teeth can be used
effectively for threshing sorghum.
DRYING 15) Newly harvested grain sorghum should be dried to a moisture content of
13 to 14 per cent. This is equivalent to 3-4 full days of drying under the sun.
STORING 16) Well dried sorghum grain can be stored in sacks. The sacks can be
stacked for storage, but good ventilation should be provided.
HOW TO GROW SOYBEANS (GLYCINE MAX var.)
IMPORTANCE 1) Soybeans are perhaps the world's oldest food crop and are one of the
most concentrated and nutritious foods known to man. They rank as one of
the five great protein foods and are often referred to as "the meat that grows
on vines." Dry soybeans contain twice the amount of protein found in meat
and ten times that of milk. Growing soybeans is one of the most economical
ways you can add more protein to your diet.
Soybean is one of the most useful leguminous plants. Viands, snacks, and
desserts are made from the green mature beans. Soybean flour, soybean
sprouts, and fermented products like ”tausi” and soy sauce are prepared
from the dried beans. Soy cheese and tofu are made from soymilk. The oil
from soybeans is used in the manufacture of cooking oil, margarine, salad
dressing and vegetable shortening.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of soybeans grown throughout the country.
For commercial production, the following varieties are recommended: BPI L-
114, CES 434, Clark 63, TK-5, and UPLB-Sy2. For vegetable purposes you
need to plant Kanrich, E.G. Special, or Kahala.
SOILS 3) Soybeans can be grown in nearly all types of soil, but best results will be
obtained from mellow, fertile, sandy or clay loam soil. Soybean seeds do not
germinate well in soil that is too dry or too wet.
CLIMATIC 4) Most varieties mentioned above can be grown throughout the country.
REQUIREMENTS They need plenty of water during the growing period and dry weather during
the stage of ripening of fruits.
LAND 5) Prepare the land thoroughly. Plow the field and then harrow until the soil
PREPARATION is well pulverized.
SEED 6) Be sure that the seeds you are using for planting come from healthy
TREATMENT and disease-free plants. Treat the seeds with fungicide such as Arasan or
Captan to protect them from soil-borne diseases and insect pests.
SEED 7) Like string beans, soybeans can get free nitrogen from the air. To help
INOCULATION them produce their own nitrogen, you need to inoculate the seeds before
planting. (Please read our leaflet "How to Inoculate Leguminous Crops.")
However, you can plant soybeans without inoculating the seeds.
PLANTING 8) Plant your soybeans in rows 75 centimeters apart. Drop 2 to 3 seeds per
hill at a distance of 5 centimeters apart. Sow the seeds at a depth of 2 to 3
centimeters. After germination thin your soybeans to 20 plants per linear
meter.
FERTILI- 9) Soybeans are legumes; therefore, they meet their requirement for
ZATION nitrogen through the root nodules. In the absence of soil analysis, you need
45 kilos of phosphorous and 45 kilos of potassium per hectare. All the
recommended fertilizers should be applied as basal at planting. (Four and
one-half sacks of 0-20-0 plus one and one-half sacks of 0-0-60 will meet the
necessary fertilizer requirements.)
WEEDING AND 10) Soybeans compete poorly with weeds at their early stages of growth.
CULTIVATION One way of eliminating weeds is through cultivation. Cultivation may be
started two weeks after planting and continued when the plants are about
six inches tall. Extra care should be taken during cultivation
so that the
roots of the plants are not injured. Cultivation should stop when the plants
begin to bear flowers.
CONTROL 11) Soybeans are susceptible to insect attack. Insects that considerably
OF PESTS damage soybeans include cutworms, aphids, nematodes and bugs. Control
cutworms by spraying the plants with Basudin 20 EC. You can control bugs
and aphids by spraying the plants with Furadan 3G, Mipcin 50 WP, or
Malathion 57 EC.
CONTROL 12) Bacterial pustule, soybean rust, and soybean mosaic are common
OF DISEASES diseases of soybeans. Selection of seeds from disease-free plants, the use
of resistant varieties, crop rotation, clean culture, and the use of fungicides
are good control measures.
HARVESTING 13) The soybean crop is ready for harvest 120 to 150 days after planting,
depending upon the variety you planted and the season you are growing
them. For general purposes, the crop can be harvested when about 90%
are mature. The plants may be pulled up and tied into small bundles. These
bundles may be set into stacks and threshed as soon as they are dry.
POSTSCRIPT 14) Do not burn the stalks or leaves of the soybeans after harvest. They are
very good fertilizer so just leave them in the field.
It is advisable to plant corn after the soybeans because there will be lots of
nitrogen left in the soil which corn needs for its growth.
HOW TO GROW STRING BEANS (VIGNA SPP.)
IMPORTANCE 1) The string bean, also known as pole sitao, is a nutritious
vegetable and
is one of the most popular edible legumes grown in the country.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of string beans grown throughout the country.
Examples of these varieties are Yard Long, Economic Garden Pole Sitao
No. 1, DES Pole Sitao No. 1, UPCA 1, UPCA 2, UPCA 5, BPI-Pole Sitao 1,
BPI-Pole Sitao 2, BPI-PS 3 (Maagap), and UPL-PS 2(Sandigan).
SOILS 3) You can grow string beans in well-drained sandy loam to clay loam soils.
They can be intercropped with other vegetables. Also, they can be planted
anywhere: rice dikes, fishpond dikes and backyards.
LAND 4) String beans grow well in a well-prepared field. The number of plowings
PREPARATION depends upon the soil condition and weed population in the area where you
are going to plant the crop. After each plowing immediately harrow the field.
INOCULATION 5) String bean is a leguminous plant and for best results you should
inoculate the seeds before planting. To do this, put the seeds in a big
container. Moisten them with a small amount of water. Then mix the
inoculant thoroughly until all the seeds are coated.
Legumes need a special inoculant. Ask from your provincial agriculturist or
extension worker the kind of inoculant to be used for mixing with your seeds.
The inoculant will help string beans produce their own nitrogen.
You can, however, grow string beans without inoculant.
PLANTING 6) Seeds should be planted in furrows by drilling two to three seeds per hill.
They should be planted as shallow as soil moisture permits, (usually 2.5 to
3.5 centimeters deep). Seeds should be covered with soil two times the
diameter of the seed. The spacing requirement between rows is 100
centimeters and 30 to 50 centimeters between hills.
STAKING 7) String beans need stakes to support them. The best materials for stakes
are madre de cacao and ipil-ipil. Stakes should be placed as soon as the
seeds start to germinate.
CARE OF 8) While the string beans are still young, you need to train them to climb on
THE PLANT their respective stakes. Do this carefully so as not to break the stems,
leaves or buds.
CULTIVATION 9) Twenty days after planting you need to cultivate the soil around the
& WEEDING plants thoroughly. Also uproot weeds. Cultivation and weeding are
necessary to prevent competition for nutrients by grasses and weeds.
IRRIGATION 10) If you plant string beans during rainy season, irrigating the plants is not
necessary. Rainfall during the period is sufficient to support the normal
growth and development of the string beans until harvest time.
However, if the string beans are planted during dry season or at the end of
the rainy season, you need to flood the field once a week until the soil is
saturated. Do not allow excess or running water to stay in the field. Drain
extra water immediately.
FERTILIZATION 11) In the absence of soil analysis, apply 50 kilos nitrogen, 120 kilos
phosphorous, and 50 kilos potash per hectare. Put the fertilizer twelve
centimeters away from the plant and cover it with fine soil, 2 centimeters
thick. Thereafter, water the plant just enough to make the soil moist (not too
wet and not too dry).
MULCHING 12) During dry season, it is advisable for you to mulch your plants with rice
straw, dried leaves or any other suitable material to conserve as much soil
moisture as possible. Mulching also prevents the soil from baking.
INSECT 13) There are a number of insects that attack string beans: bean flies, bean
CONTROL pod borer pyralid, aphids, common cutworms, bean bugs and spotted
ladybird beetles. Control these insects by planting resistant varieties, crop
rotation and spraying insecticides.
DISEASE 14) Fusarium root rot and bean rust are the most destructive diseases of
CONTROL string beans. To date there is no chemical known which can control
fusarium root rot. Bean rust can be controlled by spraying with either
Benlate, Dithane M-45 or Zerlate.
HARVESTING 15) Harvest your string beans when they are tender, right before they
become fibrous and have developed prominent seeds. This is about 7 to 10
days after blooming. Pick the pods every two to four days. Harvesting
should be done early in the morning so that the pods will not be exposed to
strong sunlight. Heat causes shriveling and hastens the deterioration of
vegetables. Handle pods carefully to avoid damaging them.
HOW TO GROW SWEET CORN
INTRODUCTION 1) You can grow sweet corn in your farm as food for your family and as cash
crop. Sweet corn is a good vegetable and makes a very nice crop. Sweet
corn is very saleable in the market and at the bus stop.
VARIETIES 2) There are three high-yielding sweet corn varieties that you can grow in
your farm: Hawaiian Super Sweet, Golden Cross Bantam, and Huron. There
are many other hybrids but for home yard production, we recommend open
pollinated varieties.
ADAPTATION 3) Sweet corn grows well in moderately heavy loam which is rich in organic
matter and well drained during the rainy months. You can produce goodquality
sweet corn if you grow it in places where the temperature becomes
cool at night (70 degrees Fahrenheit), or where the elevation is 1000 feet
above sea level. The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center is growing the
Hawaiian Super Sweet which produces well at low altitudes.
LAND 4) Plow the field and then harrow until the soil is well pulverize to provide
PREPARATION a mellow seedbed and to promote rapid germination.
PLANTING 5) Plant your sweet corn in rows 75 centimeters apart. Plant three to four
seeds per hill at a distance of 50 centimeters apart in a moist soil having a
depth of three to four centimeters. After germination, thin your sweet corn to
two plants per hill.
FERTILIZATION 6) Sweet corn responds well to fertilizer. Apply a basal application of
complete fertilizer (14-14-14) at one tablespoon per hill at planting time.
Apply a side dress application of urea (46-0-0) at one tablespoon per hill
when your sweet corn is knee high.
WEEDING AND 7) Weeding and cultivation are necessary to prevent nutrient competition
CULTIVATION with grasses and weeds. Weed and cultivate when you see it is necessary.
PEST 8) Insects such as shoot flies, cutworms, corn borers, army worms, and
MANAGEMENT earworms cause damage to your sweet corn. You can control these pests
by using Furadan 3 G. Apply three grams per hill as basal application with
your fertilizer at planting time. At six weeks, apply Furadan 3 G to the whorl
at three grams per plant. These pests can also be controlled by spraying
with Furadan, Lannate and Malathion. Follow the recommended dosage
written on the manufacturer's label.
HARVESTING 9) Harvest your sweet corn at its late milk stage and at its early dough
stage. For best sweetness, harvest late in the evening and deliver to the
vendors that same night. Sweet corn should be boiled immediately after
harvest, and if it cannot be boiled right away, it should be stored in a cool
place. Golden Cross Bantam can be harvested in about 75 days after
planting; Hawaiian Sweet, and Huron in about 100 days. You will have to
wait 150 days after planting before you can harvest glutinous corn.
At harvest, trim off the flag-leaf including the butt to prevent fast shrinkage of
kernels.
Never allow corn to stand in piles as deep as 50 centimeters except when
they are in transit. When they are not in transit, spread them apart or pour
water over them to keep them cool. While glutinous corn can stand rough
handling, good-quality sweet corn should be handled with extra care.
HOW TO GROW SWEET PEPPER (CAPSICUM ANNUUM)
IMPORTANCE 1) Known locally as ”atsal”, sweet pepper is one of the fruit vegetables you
should plant. The fleshy fruit is an excellent source of vitamin A, iron,
phosphorous and niacin. The green leaves are an excellent source of
calcium.
VARIETIES 2) Among the varieties of sweet pepper grown in the Philippines are:
California Wonder, Dingras All Season, Improved World Beater, Pimiento,
and Giant King. The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center is using the Yolo
Wonder variety which grows well in this area.
USES 3) Sweet peppers are an important ingredient in many Filipino dishes. Fresh
sweet peppers are a common part of tossed salads and relish trays; they
are particularly tasty when stuffed with any of a vast number of mixtures of
meat and vegetables.
CLIMATIC 4) You can plant sweet pepper during hot or rainy season since it can
REQUIREMENTS tolerate a range of climates from warm temperate to tropical.
SOWING 5) Sweet pepper, like tomato and eggplant, is propagated by seeds. Buy
THE SEEDS your seeds from reliable sources. Sow the seeds in a seed box following the
distance of one inch between hills and two inches between rows. If you
sow in a seedbed, the seeds should be sown five centimeters apart in rows
and in hills. Then cover the seeds, level the soil surface, press firmly and
water moderately.
CARE OF THE 6) You should not let the seed box or seedbed dry up. Until the seedlings
SEEDLINGS are well-established, keep the soil fairly moist. Water the seedlings in the
morning before the sun is hot.
Thin the seedlings after they develop two pairs of true leaves. Remove
weak, abnormal seedlings. Fifteen days after sowing spray the seedbed or
seed box with 24 grams of complete fertilizer (12-24-12) mixed with 10
liters of water. Rinse the seedlings with tap water after fertilizing.
TRANSPLANTING 7) You can start transplanting your sweet pepper if they have attained at
least four true leaves. Do this in the late afternoon to prevent wilting. You
should plant the seedlings at a distance of 30 centimeters by 40
centimeters apart in hills and in rows.
MANURING AND 8) Put one to two handfuls of manure in each planting hole you have
MULCHING prepared. Whether planted during the dry or rainy season, you should mulch
the spot where the seedlings have been transplanted. You can use either
dry leaves or rice straw. Mulching is more effective when done right after
transplanting the seedlings.
WEEDING 9) You should control weeds to attain maximum crop yield. You can control
weeds by timely cultivation, and cultivation also helps your plants absorb
water and improves soil aeration.
IRRIGATION 10) Your sweet pepper plants need moderate irrigation. Lack of moisture in
the soil will result in poor yield. Provide your field with drainage canals so as
to avoid injury to your plants in case of sudden heavy rain.
FERTILIZATION 11) To attain maximum yield, you need to fertilize your sweet pepper. The
recommended fertilizers for one hectare are 60 kilos of nitrogen, 130 kilos of
phosphorous, and 95 kilos of potassium. Use half of this as basal treatment.
The remaining will be applied as a side dressing one month after planting.
PRUNING 12) Prune your sweet pepper to maximize production. Pruning should be
done carefully with a sharp knife.
INSECTS 13) Aphids, spider mites and leafhoppers can attack your sweet pepper any
AND THEIR time. You can control them by spraying your plants with chemicals at
CONTROL manufacturer's recommended dosage. For aphids, use either Malathion or
Azodrin 202R. Dimethoate controls spider mites. Leafhoppers can be
controlled by either Meptox, Folidol, or Fosferno.
DISEASES 14) The diseases of sweet pepper are bacterial wilt, anthracnose and fruit
AND THEIR rot. You can prevent bacterial wilt by planting healthy, vigorous seedlings
CONTROL which are soaked in antibiotics like AgriStrep and Phytomycin.
Anthracnose can be controlled by a continuing and thorough spray program
using Dithane M-45. To prevent fruit rot, spray the infected plants with
Benlate and copper fungicide. Also collect and remove infected plants and
burn them.
SUNSCALDING 15) Sun scalding is not a disease. It is caused by the unequal exposure of
fruit to the scorching heat of the sun. It can be prevented or minimized by
covering the fruit with cut grasses or tying the leaves together.
HARVESTING 16) Sweet pepper, depending on the variety you planted, can be harvested
80 to 120 days after transplanting. You should use a sharp knife in cutting
the stem.
HOW TO GROW SWEET POTATO (IPOMEA BATATAS)
IMPORTANCE 1) The sweet potato, locally known as "kamote" is considered to be the most
important root crop in the Philippines. It is an important part of the diet in
many parts of the country and is a good cash crop.
You can cook sweet potato in various ways: boiled, baked, fried or mixed
with other root crops to form the Filipino delicacy "guinata-an." You can also
make it into a candy. Sweet potato tops are eaten as a vegetable.
The tubers and the leaves can be utilized as feed for hogs, golden snails,
goats, etc.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of sweet potato grown in the country. Among
the most common are BNAS 15, Georgia Yellow Yam, C-430, Leyte, SP
#45, Variga, U.P.R., Mississippi, and Initlog.
CLIMATIC 3) Sweet potato can be grown any time of the year. It can endure
RANGE considerable drought but cannot bear water logging.
TYPES OF 4) You can plant sweet potato anywhere. It has a wide range of soil
SOIL adaptability. It grows in sandy loam to clay loam soils.
PROPAGATION 5) The best planting materials for sweet potato are the terminal cuttings
although tubers and slips could also be used.
Terminal cuttings should have at least four nodes. To obtain this number
they are usually cut about 20-25 centimeters long.
Prepare the cuttings a day or two before planting. Remove the leaves of the
cuttings by trimming close to the nodes to prevent evaporation and to induce
root formation. Then bundle the cuttings and arrange upright under a shade.
LAND 6) To have a good yield of root crops, soil should be thoroughly prepared.
PREPARATION Land should be plowed and harrowed twice or until soil is very loose and
friable.
PLANTING 7) Raised beds could be used, especially on small-scale production. For
METHODS large areas, plant the cuttings on ridges at the following distances: 75-100
centimeters between rows and 20-30 centimeters between hills.
CULTIVATION 8) You need to cultivate your sweet potato plants before the vines start to
crawl.
WEEDING 9) Try to control weeds. Weeding is done while the vines have not yet
covered the spaces between them. When the plants have covered entirely
the spaces between them, you need not to weed any more.
WATERING 10) You should water your sweet potato plants especially during their
vegetative growth. Frequent light watering is better than heavy watering at
long intervals. Sweet potatoes need constant moisture throughout their
growing season for best production.
PRUNING 11) You should not prune your sweet potato plants. If you do, there will be a
lesser yield of tubers.
FERTILIZATION 12) Under high soil fertility or normal soil conditions, none or little fertilization
is needed. But under low soil fertility you need to fertilize your sweet potato
plants.
INSECT 13) Sweet potato weevil is the number one pest of sweet potatoes. You can
CONTROL control it by spraying with Lebaycid. Tortoise shell beetle can be stopped by
using Malathion E-57 or Hytox. Diazinon 20EC or Basudin 40WP is sprayed
to combat cutworms.
DISEASE 14) Sclerotium blight is a disease which causes infected plants to wrinkle
CONTROL and wilt. A well-planned crop rotation checks the disease. Black rot may
also be controlled by crop rotation.
HARVESTING 15) Early maturing varieties mature in 70 to 90 days from planting while late
maturing varieties require 120 days or more. Sweet potatoes may be
harvested by shallow plowing if the area is large or with a shovel or “guna” if
the area is small.
HOW TO TAN RABBIT SKINS
INTRODUCTION 1) Aside from their meat, rabbits are also valued for their skin. There is a
ready market for the skins that are produced from the rabbitry. Rabbit skins
are used extensively in the making of furs and garments, as well as in the
pelting industry. Some of the high-quality men's hats are made largely from
rabbit fur. The additional income from pelt will help cover the cost of
raising rabbits, so it pays to remove the skin properly when dressing the
rabbits.
SLAUGHTERING 2) Do not feed the rabbits the day before butchering them, because much of
the skins are wasted during the cutting process. In order to skin a rabbit
properly, you should first suspend the rabbits by its hind legs securely facing
you. Hold the head firmly with your left hand and a sharp knife in your right
hand. Pull down the rabbit with a jerk to break its neck with your left hand
and cut just behind the head to drain the blood. When the blood is drained,
continue the cutting across the back of the head down to the tip of the jaw
including all of the thick fur covering the neck and jaw. Then, make a slit
down the back of both hocks. At this point, loosen the flesh at the sides of
the hocks with your fingers preparatory to skinning the carcass. Cut the tail
at its base and also the two front legs above the joints at least half an inch
high. With two hands, pull the skin down the carcass until the skin is pulled
off whole like a sock. Immediately afterwards, soak the skin, tail, and feet in
a soap solution.
Meanwhile, make a slit on the rabbit's flesh from the rectum, down to the
breast, taking care not to puncture the intestines. Remove the entrails.
Wash the meat and hang it to air. The last step is to wash the skin
thoroughly with soap and again in clear water to remove all the blood and
dirt. Gently squeeze the skin between your hands. Never twist or wring the
skin. Drain to remove the water.
CURING THE 3) First, soak the skins in highly concentrated salt solution for one night.
SKIN The following day, squeeze the water from the skin but again do not twist.
Salt thoroughly the flesh side of the skins (1 k salt/pelt).
From time to time examine the skins to see if any portion is not covered with
the salt. Rub more salt on any uncovered portion. Poor salting will result in
the later dropping off the fur.
ACTUAL 4) Before de-fleshing the skin, prepare the tanning solution as follows:
TANNING
a. Dissolve 500 grams of alum in one gallon of hot water in a pail.
b. Dissolve 250 grams of salt and 125 grams of soda in another pail.
c. One cup formalin
When these solutions are already dissolved, pour the salt-soda solution into
the alum solution slowly at the same time stirring with a wooden paddle.
DE-FLESHING 5) While waiting for the mixed solutions to cool off, de-flesh the skins to be
THE SKINS tanned. De-fleshing is one of the hardest parts of tanning. It is done by
starting from the back portion of the skin and working circularly. When all the
skins are de-fleshed, immerse them in the tanning solutions for three to
thirty days. Stir the skins three times a day since the chemicals separate
and settle to the bottom of the pail. (De-fleshing is accomplished by scraping
the skin with a small drawing knife.)
WASHING THE 6) After immersing the skins in tanning solutions, wash them in soft water.
SKINS Start with water that had been mixed with borax (one spoonful to a gallon) to
remove the tanning chemicals, then wash several more times in plain clear
water. Press and squeeze out the water but do not twist or wring the skins.
STRETCHING 7) Stretch the skins on a piece of No. 9 galvanized iron wire 1.5 meters long
AND OILING bent like an inverted V shape and covered with plastic tubes to prevent the
frames from rusting. The fur sides should be down and the flesh out. When
this is done, apply mineral oil or castor oil thinly and evenly on the skins.
Hang the skins in a shaded place not under the direct sunlight to dry.
BUFFING 8) When the skins are about 95 per cent dried, commence working or
kneading them. Buffing or stretching the skins until they are as soft as linen
handkerchief may take hours. This is also one of the most critical part of
tanning process. Negligence can never be repaired. The more you buff the
skins, the better. When the skins are well dried and soft and are ready for
use, powder them with talcum.
HOW TO RAISE TILAPIA
IMPORTANCE 1) There are many good things about the tilapia which make raising it
profitable. You can secure fries or fingerlings from a variety of sources
including the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center. All that you need is
initiative, industry, and patience and in four months tilapia are ready for your
table.
SELECTING 2) Select a site where water is accessible throughout the year. It should be
POND SITE well exposed to sunlight, which hastens the growth and multiplication of
small aquatic plants called algae ("lumot"), which serve as food for the
tilapia. More important, it should not be flooded during rainy season.
PREPARING 3) The size of the pond should be determined by the number of fish you
THE POND want to raise. A good guide is 2 to 3 mature fish per square meter of water
surface. The depth of the pond should be 1 meter with water not less than
three-fourths meter deep. Manage the water so that it will not flow
continuously through the pond.
To insure that no fish will escape, fine-meshed bamboo or fence should
screen ponds that have waterways connecting them to canals or outside
water. Both the inside and outside end of each waterway should be
screened. Use big bamboos for inlets and outlets for small ponds.
FERTILIZING 4) Since the pond is newly-constructed, you have to apply fertilizer. Do
THE POND this one week before stocking. Apply chicken manure on the pond bottom
with water depth of about 6 centimeters at the rate of one kilo for every 10
square meters.
Fertilize the pond once a month to insure good production of algae. You can
either use commercial fertilizer or organic matter like manure, compost, ipilipil
leaves, etc. If you do not have organic matter, apply every month onehalf
kilo of urea and one-half kilo of 15-15-15 for every 100 square meters of
water surface.
SECURING FISH 5) Obtain your first supply of young tilapia from any reliable fishpond owner.
FINGERLINGS One source of tilapia fingerlings is the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center. _
If fingerlings are unavailable, you need about 20-30 pairs of good breeders
to start reproducing in your tilapia pond of 10 x 20 feet.
If fingerlings are available, you will need to plan on about 5 to 6 fingerlings
per square meter of water surface area.
The most common breeds of talipia available are: Nilotica, Mozambique,
and GIF (genetically modified).
STOCKING 6) Before stocking the pond with tilapia, be sure to drain it thoroughly and
THE POND remove the weeds and unwanted fish that may be present. Allow your pond
to dry up until it cracks before refilling with fresh, clean water. Fertilize the
pond one week before stocking.
Stock the pond either early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the
water temperature is low in order to avoid weakening of the fish. Allow the
water in the pond to mix gradually with the water in the fish container before
putting the fish into the pond.
FEEDING 7) Since fish ponds do not always provide enough natural food (algae), you
YOUR may want to feed your fish with supplementary fees such as rice bran, copra
TILAPIA meal, etc. During the first month, give fingerlings supplementary feed twice
a day at the rate of two to three percent of their body weight.
Grow kangkong along the border of the pond, but the kangkong (Ipomea
aquatica ) should occupy not more than 5% of the water surface to enable
the fish to get sufficient oxygen. Aside from giving you a fresh leafy
vegetable, kangkong will also provide food for the fish.
CONTROLLING 8) Man, nature, and other kinds of fish are enemies of tilapia. Keep your
TILAPIA pond off-limits to children and other people for they might throw in _
ENEMIES poisonous chemicals which are disastrous to tilapia.
Nature does its damage by means of heavy rain. Heavy rain causes flooding
which will wash away the fish and algae. It also kills fingerlings and destroys
dikes. Repair immediately any destroyed dikes. If your home lot is easily
flooded, place stones around the top of dikes to prevent the escape of fish if
the water overflows.
Find ways to keep the mudfish (“haluan”) out of your tilapia pond. The
mudfish is a ferocious predator of tilapia fingerlings and ever larger fish.
HARVESTING 9) You can harvest tilapia by using a dip net or a lift net. Lower the net down
to the bottom of the pond and spread a small amount of feed on the water
just above the net. Lift the net as fast as possible to prevent the escape of
the tilapia. After harvesting, stock the pond again.
PIG AND 10) Research at the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center shows that you can
TILAPIA make your fishpond more productive and profitable by raising a pig at the
site of the pond. Waste of the pig goes directly to the pond and helps to
fertilize the tiny plants (algae or “lumot”) that serve as the tilapia's main food.
Tests prove that tilapia cultured in this kind of pond can be eaten without
any harmful effect. Many farmers in Mindanao have already adopted this
technology in their own fishponds.
USES OF 11) Tilapia is a good quality food and has a firm and delicious flesh.
TILAPIA Unlike bangus, it has few fine bones. Tilapia is suitable also for processing
into dried, salted-dried, smoked or pickled products.
Tilapia is a good insect and worm predator and is known to help clean many
injurious insects from ponds. To a certain extent, tilapia can help in keeping
down the number of mosquito larvae, thus preventing them from developing
into troublesome and harmful mosquitoes.
HOW TO GROW TOMATO (LYCOPERSICON ESCULENTUM)
IMPORTANCE 1) Commonly known among Filipinos as ”kamatis”, tomato is one of the
most common ingredients of Filipino dishes. It is served raw or cooked and
can be processed into tomato sauce, ketchup, or seasonings.
CLIMATIC 2) Tomato grows best in areas with mild seasons and without too much
RANGE heat or rainfall._ _
SOILS 3) You can grow tomato anywhere, but for best results you should plant it in
a fertile, well-drained and easily crumbled soil (sandy to clay loam).
VARIETIES 4) There are several varieties of tomato grown in the country. Here at
Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center, we find the VC 11 performs more
satisfactorily. It has proven to be resistant to many types of diseases.
PROPAGATION 5) Tomatoes are propagated by seeds. Sow seeds in a seed box or
seedbed just before the end of the rainy season. A seed box (45 x 30 x 7.5
centimeters in dimension) is very convenient for starting seedlings.
SEED 6) Seeds bought from reliable seed sources like the Mindanao Baptist Rural
TREATMENT Life Center are usually treated with fungicides and insecticides prior to
storage. However, if no treatment was done, you need to treat your seeds
with Captan (Orthocide) at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 3 kilograms of seeds.
CARE 7) The seedbed or seed box should be watered moderately once or twice
OF THE a day so as to provide sufficient moisture to cause seeds to sprout after 3 to
SEEDLINGS 7 days from the date of sowing.
Harden the seedlings before you transplant them in order for the seedlings
to withstand the shock of transplanting. You can do this by reducing
gradually the frequency of watering and by exposing your seedlings in the
sun. They should be allowed to suffer from temporary wilting before
watering. A "hardened" seedling will stand the rigors of transplanting much
better than a non-hardened one.
A starter solution (made by dissolving 40 grams or 4 tablespoons of 16-20-0
analysis of fertilizer to one big kerosene can of water) can be applied 5 to 7
days before transplanting the seedlings to the field or garden._ _
LAND 8) The field should be thoroughly prepared by two to three plowings to a
PREPARATION depth of 20 to 30 centimeters with alternate harrowing.
TRANSPLANTING 9) When the seedlings are 3 to 4 weeks old, they are ready for
transplanting. You should plant the seedlings on raised beds (50
centimeters high) during rainy season. Raise the beds ahead of time--before
the start of rainy season. Plant the seedlings 75 centimeters between rows
and 30 centimeters between hills._ _
FERTILIZATION 10) In the absence of soil analysis, apply one tablespoon of complete
fertilizer per plant at the transplanting stage. At planting time apply 120-192
kilograms of phosphorus, 30-48 kilograms of nitrogen, and 30-48 kilograms
of potassium per hectare. The fertilizer should be placed about 6
centimeters deeper than the seedlings' root crowns and to the sides of the
seedlings.
One month after transplanting apply the following as side
dressing: 30-48 kilograms of potassium and 30-48 kilograms of nitrogen per
hectare.
WATERING 11) Soon after transplanting, saturate the soil in order to provide the plants
with a favorable condition for their rapid recovery. Thereafter, watering
should be done as often as necessary.
CONTROLLING 12) A good weed control program starts with good land preparation. If your
WEEDS land is well-prepared before transplanting, weeds will not be much of a
problem. Although the application of herbicides has been found to effectively
control weeds, hand weeding and shallow cultivation are still the most
popular methods of controlling weeds in tomato fields.
STAKING 13) During the rainy season staking is usually done to keep the plant and its
fruit above the ground. There are several ways of doing this. You may use
sliced bamboo sticks or nylon ropes. Madre de cacao and/or ipil-ipil are also
good materials for staking._ _
MULCHING 14) In preparing the field for mulching, beds are raised a little bit by deep
furrowing and planting is done on the ridges. Mulching materials like rice
hulls or straw are spread out either before or after transplanting.
INSECT 15) Tomato fruit worm, spotted lady beetle, melon or cotton aphid, and
CONTROL spider mite are the common insects that attack tomatoes. You can control
these insects by spraying with insecticides like Sumithion 25 EC, Basudin
40 WP, or Sevin 85S.
DISEASE 16) The common diseases of tomato are bacterial wilt, leaf mold, powdery
CONTROL mildew, bacterial spot, and tomato mosaic virus. They can be controlled by
planting resistant varieties, by practicing crop rotation, and by spraying
with fungicides._ _
HARVESTING 17) The time of harvesting is dependent on the purpose for which you grow
tomatoes. You can harvest them either mature-green, pink or breaker, or
red ripe. Fruit intended for distant markets should be harvested mature
green. For nearby markets the fruit are usually harvested either in their
breaker stage or ripe stage.
HOW TO GROW VEGETABLE TRANSPLANTS
INTRODUCTION 1) Some vegetables may be seeded directly in the field. Others are grown
first in a seed box nursery and then transplanted. Vegetable crops that
should be started in seed box or nursery include lettuce, broccoli, mustard,
cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, eggplant, sweet pepper, tomato, and radish.
ADVANTAGES 2) There are advantages in growing your own transplants. Two advantages
are that they are immediately available when you need them and they are
often less expensive to grow than to buy. Also, extra seedlings can be sold
to neighbors. But most important of all, you avoid the danger of bringing
diseases to your farm or garden.
SEED 3) Before sowing the seeds, you need to treat the seeds with pesticides if
TREATMENT you think they are not yet treated. Sevin powder, an insecticide, is generally
used at the rate of one teaspoonful for every three kilograms of seed. To
keep fungus in check, Captan powder is recommended using the same
dosage as Sevin.
PRODUCING 4) Transplants can be produced in a seedbed or seed box. The method to
TRANSPLANTS be used will depend on the grower and the available facilities.
The Seedbed Method - The seedbed method of growing transplants utilizes
a selected outdoor area, which is fully exposed to sunlight. Since the
seedlings are grown under full sunlight, hardening is not necessary before
transplanting.
The Seed box Method - Vegetable transplants can also be grown in seed
boxes containing a sterilized soil mixture.
(Soil is sterilized either by pouring
boiling water on the surface of the soil or by burning banana leaves on the
soil.) Before sowing the seeds, fill the seed box to the edge with the soil and
level it but do not pack because, after watering the seed box, the soil will
settle down.
SOWING THE 5) In the seed box method, sow the seeds thinly in shallow furrows. Do not
SEEDS broadcast the seeds. To have more or less uniform distribution of seeds in
the furrow, place the seeds in a paper packet and tap gently so that the
seeds will drop evenly. Cover them with fine sand and gently press the soil.
Soon after sowing, water the seed box with a fine sprinkler.
In the seedbed method, make rows five to seven centimeters apart. In each
row, place two to three seeds at a distance of five centimeters between
hills. (To hasten germination, some growers cover the seedbed with a
plastic sheet or rice straw which keeps the seed bed moist and warm.)
WATERING 6) The seedbed or seed box should be watered carefully every morning,
taking care not to pack the soil or wash away the top layer. Use a sprinkling
can in watering the transplants.
FERTILIZATION 7) When seedling growth is poor, fertilize them with a highly soluble fertilizer
dissolved in water. The most common practice is to use ammonium sulfate
at the rate of one tablespoon for every gallon of water.
PEST 8) The most common disease which attacks seedlings in seed boxes/seed
PROTECTION beds is damping-off. It is difficult to control but can be minimized by using
sterilized soil medium, treating the seeds with pesticides before sowing,
sowing thinly, and watering the seedlings at the right time.
HARDENING 9) To harden seedlings, you should place them in the open then gradually
withhold water from them. You should not withhold water suddenly as this
may injure the plants. Hardening seedlings grown under shelters or in seed
boxes is simply done by bringing them under the sun.
TRANSPLANTING 10) The age and size of the seedlings when transplanted considerably
affects their recovery and subsequent growth. In general, the smaller the
seedlings, the easier they are to transplant. Pechay, lettuce and mustard are
ready for transplanting 2 to 3 weeks after sowing. Tomato, sweet pepper,
cauliflower, broccoli, bulb onion, cabbage and eggplant should be
transplanted 4 to 5 weeks after sowing.
HOW TO UPLIFT YOUR SMALL LOWLAND FARM
INTRODUCTION 1) UPLIFT (or Using Properly Lowland Integrated Farming Technology) is a
simple but effective way of increasing the productivity of small irrigated
lowland farms. It integrates rice production with vegetable, tree, aquatic
animal, poultry and livestock production by recycling and utilizing organic
resources. This technology consists of ten basic steps which are discussed
below:
#1: CON- 2) The A-frame is a simple tool for determining contour lines. To make an
STRUCTING A-frame, three sturdy wooden poles, an ordinary carpenter’s level, and
AN A-FRAME string (for tying) or nails are needed. Cut two pieces of wood two meters
long to serve as the legs of the A-frame. Cut the third piece one meter long
to serve as the crossbar of the frame. The A-frame is used in locating the
contour lines of the farm.
FINDING 3) Start on one side of your farm. Let the A-frame stand on the ground.
CONTOUR LINES Without moving the rear leg, lift the front leg. Then put the front leg down on
the ground so that the air space in the carpenter's level stops in the middle.
When this happens, it means you have found the contour line, which is the
level line between the two legs of the A-frame. Mark with a stick the spot
where the rear leg stands. Move the A-frame forward by placing the rear leg
on the spot where the front leg stood before. Adjust the front leg again until
it levels with the rear leg. Follow this procedure until you reach the entire
length of the contour line, which is the other end of your farm.
#2: CON- 4) Build big dikes following the contour lines. The ideal dike is one meter
STRUCTING wide and one-half meter high; its length, however, depends on the size and
DIKES shape of your farm. Big dikes will allow you to grow different crops, thereby
avoiding dependence on rice crops only.
#3: USING 5) Divide your farm into four parts. Use one-fourth of the land for your
ONE-FOURTH home, tilapia fishpond, FAITH vegetable garden, animal-raising projects
FOR HOME, (swine fattening, goats, rabbits, and ducks). Locate these at the highest
GARDEN AND portion of your land, providing adequate land space reuirements.
LIVESTOCK
#4: USING 6) Use three-fourths of the land for lowland rice. Stagger your rice
THREE-FOURTHS production by dividing the rice area into three equal parts. The newly
FOR RICE PRO- harvested rice area will serve as a “pasture” for your ducks. Be sure the
DUCTION ducks do not visit one section of the rice area more than the other sections.
#5: PLANTING 7) Plant the middle dikes to calamansi, coffee, black pepper, guava and
THE DIKES non-permanent fruit trees like papaya. You can plant the boundary dikes to
multipurpose tree species (MPTS), which could be used for
firewood, charcoal, and light construction.
#6: FENCING 8) Fence the farm by planting closely on single row any or all of the following
THE FARM nitrogen fixing tree species (NFTS): ipil-ipil (Leucaena leucocephala ), madre
de cacao or kakawate (Gliricidia sepium ), katuray (Sesbania grandiflora ),
and other sesbanias. Prune them regularly and use the leaves as the
protein sources of your animals like goats and swine. You can also utilize
the leaves as fertilizer for your basket compost in your garden plots.
#7: MANAGING 9) Manage the water in such a way that it passes through the animal
THE FARM projects first, then to the fishponds, then to the garden plots, and finally to
the rice field. In this way, the water becomes fertile by the time it reaches
the rice farm, thus reducing the need for expensive commercial fertilizer.
#8: MANAGING 10) Feed the leaves of NFTS like ipil-ipil, madre de cacao, flemingia, or
ANIMAL FEED rensonii and grasses to your goats and swine. The leftovers should be given
to your Golden Apple snails. You may use snails in your feed rations for
ducks and pigs.
#9: MARKET- 11) Set aside one-half of your rice harvest for home consumption and sell
ING SURPLUS the surplus. You may do this also with your fish, eggs, milk, chevon, and
pork.
#10: PLANNING 12) Plan your farm operations in such a manner that you will always have
YOUR FARM adequate food, fuelwood, feeds, fertilizer, fertile soil and some cash.
OPERATION
CONCLUSION 13) Uplift yourself and your farm now! We have proven that this farming
system is simple, applicable, low-cost and timely.
HOW TO GROW WINGED BEANS (PSOPHOCARPUS TETRAGONOLOBUS)
INTRODUCTION 1) In the Philippines, winged bean is known by several local names:
sigadilyas, kalamismis, cigarillas (Tagalog); pallang, palag, palam (Ilokano);
parupagulong (Bikolano); amale (Ibanag); buligan (Ifugao); beyed,
buligan (Bontoc); sererella, segadilla, kamaluson,
karabansos (Bisaya); and batung-baimbing (Sulu).
USEFUL 2) Winged bean has many useful characteristics compared to other
CHARACTER- legumes. Consider the following:
ISTICS
- Almost all of its parts are edible. You can eat its pods as well as its leaves,
flowers, shoots, and even its tuberous roots.
- It is a highly nutritious plant. Its roots and seeds have about 20 to 34
percent crude protein. Its other parts have plenty of vitamins (thiamin,
riboflavin, niacin, ascorbic acid) and minerals (calcium, iron, phosphorous).
- You can grow it even in a very poor soil. As a matter of fact, it can help
make your soil rich. Roots of winged bean have plenty of tiny roots which
have the ability of getting nitrogen from the air and changing it into fertilizer.
WINGED 3) There are many known varieties of winged bean. Based on the length
BEAN of pods, there are short, medium, and giant varieties. Short varieties are
VARIETIES from 2-4 inches long; medium varieties are from 5-6 inches; and giant
varieties are 9 inches long or more.
Winged beans are also classified according to the color of the seeds: white,
brown, light purple, and dark purple. As to the color of its flowers, winged
bean is classified into white, light purple, and dark purple.
PROPAGATION 4) Like all beans, winged bean is propagated by seeds. Harvest your
materials for seeds from strong, healthy and ripened fruits. Pick out only
firm, full and glossy seeds. Then dry them for one to two days and mix with
Sevin powder before planting or storing. Be sure to select and plant only the
variety that grows well in your own area.
LAND 5) To ensure good stand of winged bean, plow and harrow your soil
PREPARATION thoroughly until it loosens and pulverizes well. Properly prepared soil allows
plant roots to get more nutrients. In addition, it helps control weeds which
compete with winged bean for air, sunlight, and nutrients.
PLANTING 6) Plant two to five seeds per hill at a distance of one meter between hills
and one meter between rows. The seeds should be planted at a depth of
5.08 to 6.35 centimeters (2 to 2.5 inches). Cover them with fine, loose and
easily crumbled soil.
TRELLISING 7) Being a climbing plant, winged bean grows and produces well on poles or
trellis. Build your trellis one to two weeks after planting. A good height of the
trellis or pole is about 1.5 meters (4 to 5 feet) high.
WATERING 8) Winged bean requires no special care except supplying water during
drought. Water the plants twice a day: morning and afternoon.
WEEDING 9) If ever you observe there are weeds competing with your plants, control
AND the growth of the weeds. You can control them by timely cultivation.
CULTIVATION Cultivation also helps your plants absorb water and improves soil aeration.
PEST 10) Although winged bean seems to be not so affected by insect pests, it
MANAGEMENT is wise to protect the plants by spraying with either Lannate, Malathion or
Thiodan. For fungus diseases, spray the plants with Benlate. Winged bean
is seldom attacked by fungus.
HARVESTING 11) You can start harvesting your winged bean pods about two and a half
months after sowing. The pods have four longitudinal "wings" and they
contain up to 20 seeds, each weighing about three grams. The fresh young
pods may be used in soup, pickles, salads, etc.
The young leaves and shoots of the winged bean can also be harvested
and eaten as leafy vegetables as well as pickles. The ripe seeds can be
roasted and eaten like peanuts. Seeds may also be eaten raw. They can be
ground and used as substitute for coffee beans. You can harvest about
2,000 kilograms of seeds per hectare.
Winged beans have numerous roots. The roots grow horizontally at shallow
depth and become thick and tuberous like sweet potato or camote. The
roots contain about 20 percent crude protein. The old vines and leaves may
also be harvested and can be utilized as feed for farm animals like goats,
swine, cows, and carabao.
CONCLUSION 12) The winged bean is a perennial plant. It will grow and continue to bear
abundant fruits for several years if you add a handful of fertilizer per hill
every two to three months.
HOW TO FARM BETTER
Published by:
Asian Rural Life Development Foundation, International
http://www.arldf.net/How%20to%20Manual%20Revised.pdf
To the Valued Reader:
Many of these “How To” series were originally written in the 1970’s by Mr. Harold R.
Watson, Dr. Warlito A. Laquihon and other MBRLC staff. They have served a generation
of Filipino farmers in giving useful and practical information on farming systems for the
small farm family.
Interestingly enough, the demand for this type of information has only grown through the
years. This revised and updated version of the “How To” series is an attempt to continue
in the tradition of giving simple information, concepts and principles to small farmers,
students and extension workers involved in growing vegetable and fruit crops, and in
raising poultry and livestock
If you have any questions, please fee free to write and/or contact us at our international
offices of the Asian Rural Life Development Foundation (ARLDF):
Mr. J. Jeffrey Palmer, Director
ARLDF International
P.O. Box 30
Samyaek Suanprung P.O.
Chiang Mai, 50201
THAILAND
e-mail: palmer@loxinfo.co.th
You can also contact our base work in the Philippines at:
Mr. Steven L. Musen, Director
Mr. Henrylito Tacio, Program Information Officer
MBRLC
P.O. Box 41
Bansalan, 8005
PHILIPPINES
e-mail: mbrlc@mozcom.com; website: http://www2.mozcom.com/~mbrlc
We are very happy to share our experiences through this manual.
Happy farming!
J. Jeffrey Palmer, Director
ARLDF International
February 2004
UPDATED AND REVISED EDITION, 2004
With the purpose of facilitating wide information transfer, permission is hereby given for
reproducing the contents of this manual, with the condition that proper acknowledgements
are made and two copies are sent to the publisher.
These “How To” series can serve as a practical and simple guide for engaging in various
projects. The information is based on good research and the sound experiences and
practices of the MBRLC.
Bibliographic Citation:
MBRLC Editorial Staff. How to Farm Better . MBRLC, Kinuskusan, Bansalan, Davao del
Sur. 2004 Edition. How to Series No. 3.
Editorial Staff:
Mr. Henylito D. Tacio
Mr. Steven L. Musen
Mr. J. Jeffrey Palmer
Note: The trade names, manufacturers and distributors cited in this publication are used
solely for the purpose of providing specific information and do not endorse products
named or imply criticism of similar ones not mentioned. Mention of a trade name,
manufacturer or distributor does not constitute a guarantee or warranty of the product.
Published by MBRLC, Kinuskusan, Bansalan, Davao del Sur, Philippines.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
How to Grow Ampalaya ……………………………………………………….. 5
How to Propagate Fruit Trees Asexually …………………………………… 7
How to Grow Azolla …………………………………………………………….. 9
How to Grow Banana …………………………………………………………… 11
How to Grow Barbados Cherry ………………………………………………. 13
How to Make Basket Compost ……………………………………………….. 15
How to Grow Black Pepper …………………………………………………… 17
How to Raise Broiler Chickens……………………………………………….. 19
How to Grow Cacao ……………………………………………………………. 21
How to Grow Calamansi ………………………………………………………. 23
How to Grow Cassava …………………………………………………………. 25
How to Fatten Cattle in Your Backyard …………………………………….. 27
How to Grow Coffee ……………………………………………………………. 28
How to Grow Corn ……………………………………………………………… 30
How to Raise Ducks with Fish and Snails …………………………………. 32
How to Raise Ducks ……………………………………………………………. 34
How to Grow Eggplant …………………………………………………………. 36
How to Make a FAITH Garden ………………………………………………… 38
How to Feed Swine …………………………………………………………….. 40
How to Raise Dairy Goats …………………………………………………….. 42
How to Raise Swine ……………………………………………………………. 44
How to Farm Your Hilly Land ………………………………………………… 46
How to Inoculate Leguminous Plants ………………………………………. 49
How to Grow Pigeon Pea ……………………………………………………… 51
How to Raise Layer Chickens ……………………………………………….. 53
How to Grow Mangosteen ……………………………………………………. 55
How to Grow Okra ……………………………………………………………… 57
How to Grow Pineapple ………………………………………………………. 59
How to Raise Rabbits …………………………………………………….…… 61
How to Grow Rambutan ………………………………………………….…… 63
How to Grow Lowland Rice ……………………………………………….….. 64
How to Produce Your Own Seeds ……………………………………….….. 66
How to Grow Sesame ……………………………………………………….… 68
How to Grow Bush Sitao ……………………………………………………… 70
How to Raise Golden Apple Snails …………………………………………. 71
How to Grow Sorghum ……………………………………………………….. 73
How to Grow Soybeans ………………………………………………………. 75
How to Grow Stringbeans ……………………………………………………. 77
How to Grow Sweet Corn …………………………………………………….. 79
How to Grow Sweet Pepper …………………………………………………. 81
How to Grow Sweet Potato ………………………………………………….. 83
How to Tan Rabbit Skins …………………………………………………….. 85
How to Raise Tilapia ………………………………………………………….. 87
How to Grow Tomato …………………………………………………………. 89
How to Grow Vegetable Transplants ………………………………………. 91
How to UPLIFT Your Small Lowland Farm ……………………………….. 93
How to Grow Winged Beans ………………………………………………… 95
HOW TO GROW AMPALAYA (MOMORDICA CHARANTIA)
IMPORTANCE 1) Ampalaya is one of the vegetables you need to plant in your farm or
garden. Aside from being a good source of vitamins and minerals, it is also
a good source of income because it has a ready market. Almost all the parts
of this plant are useful. Its fruits and leaves--and sometimes its stalks--can
be sold.
VARIETIES 2) There are two types of ampalaya: the white and the green types.
The latter, however, is more popular among consumers. Among the
varieties you can grow in your farm or garden are the following:
Lagus Africa, Indang (or BPI Long Green), Iloilo Long, Santa Rita,
Laur, Polo, Karela, and Silang.
ADAPTATION 3) The ampalaya vine is found everywhere in the country for it grows on
different kinds of soils. However, for best result, plant it on a well-drained,
sandy-loam or clay-loam soil which is rich in organic matter. Do not plant
ampalaya in wet areas because it cannot tolerate too much moisture. You
can grow ampalaya any time of the year as long as there is sufficient
moisture.
LAND 4) Prepare the land thoroughly before planting ampalaya. Plow and
PREPARATION harrow the field three times and then furrow it with a distance of two meters
between rows. If you intend to plant ampalaya in your garden, be sure you
prepare the plot thoroughly. Usually the ampalaya is planted in hills about
one meter apart.
PLANTING 5) There are two ways of planting ampalaya: transplanted and direct
seeded. If your area doesn't have enough water supply and ampalaya
seeds are rather limited, it is much better to sow the seeds first in a seed
box or seedbed. Press the seeds into sterilized soil and then water the seed
box or seedbed every day until transplanting
time. (Sterilize the soil by
pouring boiling water on the surface of the soil or by burning dried leaves of
banana on top of the soil.) The seedlings are ready for transplanting when
they have one or two pairs of true leaves.
Seeds to be used for direct planting should be dried in the sun for two days.
Then plant three to five seeds per hill five centimeters deep in rows. After
several days, when sprouts are seen on the ground, thin out the plants
leaving only two to three of the strongest looking plants per hill.
TRELLISING 6) When the plants are about one foot long, you can erect two-meter high
vine supports of either ipil-ipil or madre de cacao on each hill. Reinforce the
supports with plastic twine or rope and weave one-foot square wire mesh to
top the trellises. Later on, inspect the fruits to be sure they hang well. This
is done in order for you to avoid harvesting curled or deformed fruits.
CULTIVATION 7) You can start doing a shallow cultivation with a hoe or "guna" or animaldrawn
plow three months after planting.
WEEDING 8) This is very important in amplaya growing. Weeding is done in order to
eliminate weeds, which will compete with your plants for moisture and
nutrients.
IRRIGATION 9) Apply just enough water to keep the soil moist--not too wet but not too
dry. Do not over water your ampalaya plants since, as stated earlier, they
cannot bear too much moisture.
FERTILIZATION 10) Proper watering coupled with adequate fertilization will increase plant
vigor. At planting, apply a complete fertilizer (14-14-14) at the rate of two
table spoons per hill eight centimeters from the base of the plants. When
plants are three weeks to one month old, side-dress with one tablespoon of
urea and two table spoons of ammonium sulphate.
CONTROL OF 11) The most common pests that attack ampalaya are the melon
PESTS fruit fly, thrips and aphids. You can control melon fruit fly by using
Foliafume-soap, which is available from your agricultural stores or from the
Bureau of Plant Industry and its local agencies. Thrips can be controlled by
spraying with Hamidop 600. To control aphids, Orthene 75 or Malathion may
be used at regular intervals.
CONTROL OF 12) There are two common diseases of ampalaya: fusarium
DISEASES wilt and anthracnose. Fusarium wilt can be controlled by crop rotation and
by observing sanitation in the farm or garden. Control measures for
anthracnose include spraying the plants with fungicides, sanitation, and
disinfecting seed before planting.
HARVESTING 13) You can start harvesting ampalaya when most of the fruits have reached
marketable size and when seeds are still immature. This is usually 50 days
after planting. Fruits are harvested every four days thereafter.
FRUIT 14) To prevent bruising and to prolong the freshness of ampalya
PROTECTION fruits, place them in bamboo baskets lined with fresh banana leaves while
harvesting.
HOW TO PROPAGATE FRUIT TREES ASEXUALLY
INTRODUCTION 1) You can multiply the number of your favorite fruit trees and even enhance
their good characteristics by propagating them asexually. Asexual
propagation means the reproduction of a plant by its vegetative parts that is,
by stems, leaves or roots. Sexual propagation, on the other hand, is the
reproduction of plants through seeds. Many trees do not reproduce their
own desirable characteristics when propagated through seeds, and some
trees do not even bear seeds.
ADVANTAGES 2) The advantage of asexual propagation over sexual is that
OF ASEXUAL you can reproduce the exact characteristics of the trees
PROPAGATION you want, shorten their maturity period and decrease their size. You can
also enhance the adaptability of your trees to poor soil conditions by
combining a resistant rootstock with a less resistant but more desirable
scion.
METHODS OF 3) There are five most common methods of asexually propagating
ASEXUAL trees. These are: cuttings, marcotting, inarching, grafting and
PROPAGATION budding. The easiest to do and most popular among these methods are the
cuttings and marcotting.
PROPAGATION 4) Trees that you can propagate by cuttings are citrus
BY CUTTINGS (calamansi, oranges, lime), guava, rambutan, chico, Barbados cherry,
coffee, and many others. Choose young stems from your favorite and
healthy trees. Cut them in the nodes with a length of about seven to ten
centimeters. Cut their leaves in half to prevent too much evaporation of
water, but do not strip off all the leaves.
Figure 1. A simple method to propagate plants by cuttings.
ROOT 5) To speed up root formation, you can treat the tips of
FORMATION your cuttings with Rootone or Alpha-napthalene Acetic Acid. (A.N.A.A). You
can buy these rooting chemicals from agricultural stores in your area.
PLANTING 6) Plant your cuttings in a box filled with ordinary sand. You can adjust the
size of the box according to the number of cuttings you need. Sand will only
serve as a rooting medium.
WATERING 7) Water your cuttings three times a day and cover the box with a
transparent plastic sheet (this will conserve moisture and maintain a humid
and warmer temperature suitable for root development).
TRANSPLANTING 8) When your cuttings have already developed a pair of about two-inch roots
(this will take about two months), transplant them in plastic bags filled with
sterilized fertile soil. They should remain for another month under a partial
shade before transferring them to the field.
PROPAGATION 9) Marcotting is similar but easier and more sure of
BY MARCOTTING success than cuttings. As long as you follow the steps illustrated below
(Figure 2), you can just wait until your stem develops its own roots. The
mother tree will do its usual feeding and watering until the stem can feed
itself.
When new shoots appear just below the ball of the soil, roots have already
grown. If you can see whitish roots breaking through the soil inside the
plastic wrap, your marcotted stem is ready for transfer.
Figure 2. Propagation by marcotting
CUTTING 10) In cutting the rooted stem from the mother tree, be careful not to twist
the ball of earth. Cut it just below the tied end. Remove the plastic wrap
before transplanting the new plant in a bag of sterilized fertile soil. Let it
remain in partial shade until it is hardened.
HOW TO GROW AZOLLA (ANABAENA AZOLLAE)
INTRODUCTION 1) Chemical fertilizers are getting more expensive these days. As a result,
rice farmers are discouraged to apply the recommended amounts of
fertilizers. But rice farmers should not feel that the situation is
hopeless. They could still increase their yield by using Azolla.
IMPORTANCE 2) What is special about this water fern is that it contains a blue-
OF AZOLLA green algae, ”Anabaena Azollae ”. This algae has the ability to convert or
"fix" nitrogen from the air, as much as 30 to 40 kilograms per hectare.
CHEMICAL 3) Based on the chemical analysis of Azolla, the plant nutrients
ANALYSIS available per ton of fresh Azolla are as follows: 2.10 kilograms of nitrogen
(N), 1.05 kilograms of phosphorous (P), and 1.75 kilograms of potassium
(K). For 20 tons of Azolla biomass incorporated in the soil, it will contribute
more or less 42 kilograms of N, 21 kilograms of P, and 35 kilograms of K, or
a total of 98 kilograms of NPK per hectare.
GROWING 4) To grow enough Azolla biomass for one hectare of rice-field, start
AZOLLA with a small nursery bed of three square meters. This requires 600
grams of Azolla seeding materials and will produce in 12 to 16 days about
eight to 10 kilograms of fresh Azolla biomass. This is enough to seed a 40-
square-meter bed which will yield in 12 to 16 days about 120 kilograms of
fresh Azolla sufficient to seed a 600-square-meter multiplication bed. A 600-
square-meter bed seeded with 120 kilograms of fresh Azolla seeding
materials will produce in 12 to 16 days two tons of fresh Azolla sufficient to
seed one hectare.
MULTIPLI- 5) It takes about one and a half months to grow enough Azolla
CATION biomass to seed one hectare, assuming that a healthy growth of
Azolla doubles its biomass every four days. It is a must for Azolla
growers/users to maintain a nursery or multiplication bed of at least 40
square meters to provide a continuous supply of Azolla seeding material or
inoculum.
SECURING 6) Azolla is grown throughout the country, mostly by rice
AZOLLA farmers. Secure from them your Azolla seeding material.
INOCULUM
STEPS IN 7) Here are eight steps in growing this small aquatic fern:
AZOLLA
CULTURE *Select in your farm an area that is not directly exposed to sunlight.
*Prepare the field just like you prepare for rice culture.
*Maintain the water level at five to seven centimeters deep.
*Sow fresh Azolla inoculum at the rate of 200 grams per square meter which
is equivalent to about two and a half level cans of condensed milk.
*Broadcast super phosphate fertilizer (powdered form, 0-18-0) at the rate of
8.3 grams per square meter or about one heaping table-spoonful of the
fertilizer on top of the Azolla biomass. Tap the Azolla biomass gently
immediately after fertilization to moisten and dissolve fertilizer to prevent
frond burning. Follow these rates of appli-cation: three-square-meter
nursery or multiplication bed, 12.5 grams; 40-square-meter nursery bed, 170
grams; 600-square-meter nursery bed, 2.5 kilograms. Make four
applications at four days interval.
*If visible infestation occurs, apply a pinch of carbofuran per square meter.
Do this every time you ob serve such infestation.
*If your nursery is bigger than one square meter, gently tap the Azolla with a
"tingting" broom spread wide to scatter them and accelerate their growth.
*After eight to 12 days, the whole one square meter area will be covered
fully with more than one kilo of fresh Azolla biomass. This is now ready as a
source for further multiplication in bigger nursery beds.
UTILIZATION 8) Aside from its uses as a green manure, Azolla can also be utilized as
livestock and poultry feed and as organic fertilizer.
*As livestock and poultry feed - Azolla contains 22 to 73 per cent crude
protein (on a dry weight basis). It can be dried, pulverized and mixed with
other low protein rations up to 20 to 25 per cent, as generally
recommended. However, it is not recommended as a pure ration because it
needs supplementation with three essential amino acids (lycine, methionine
and histidine).
*As organic fertilizer - Azolla makes an excellent compost with rice straw.
Since Azolla has a high protein content, it enhances decomposition. For
example, rice straw alone rarely decomposes readily. When rice straw and
Azolla are piled together in alternate layers and kept moist, the whole mass
turns into friable compost in only five to six weeks.
HOW TO GROW BANANA (MUSA SPP.)
IMPORTANCE 1) Banana is one of the favorite fruits of Filipinos. This sweet, finger-like fruit
comes in a number of varieties.
VARIETIES 2) The most common varieties grown in the country are: Gros Michel,
Latundan, Bungolan, Lakatan, Saba, Chinese Dwarf, and Giant
Cavendish. Other common varieties are Morado, Pitogo, Los Banos
Senorita, Tindok, Gloria, Granada, and Tumok.
ADAPTATION 3) Plant banana in a well-drained, fairly fertile soil. For best yields, grow
banana in sandy loam to clay loam soils with excellent drainage and liberal
amounts of organic matter. Regions having an average rainfall of about
4000 millimeters a year are ideal places for planting this fruit.
PROPAGATION 4) There are two common propagation materials: rhizomes and suckers.
Large suckers are preferred. They should be removed from strong clumps
with a spade when four to five feet tall. Cut off the largest leaves. Suckers
should have many healthy roots. If healthy suckers are not available, the
suckers are cut off and the rhizome
is trimmed of all damaged roots and dark tissue, or cut into pieces
containing only white, healthy tissue and few buds.
LAND 5) The land should be prepared thoroughly. Plowing and
PREPARATION then harrowing must be done two to three times until the soil is wellpulverized.
Remove stumps and bushes from newly-cleared fields.
SPACING 6) Good spacing is 3.5 by 4.0 meters or even farther apart, particularly for
large varieties.
PLANTING 7) The holes should be 45 centimeters (1.5 feet) in diameter
HOLES and almost knee-deep. Place about 10 grams of complete fertilizer and a
few grams of granular nematocide in the bottom of each hole. It is also
desirable to cover the planting materials with compost and soil. A good thick
layer of mulch will improve the recovery and growth of the planting material.
Soil around each new plant should be tamped and watered.
FERTILIZATION 8) In poor soils bananas should be fertilized frequently for maximum
production. Since the potash requirement of banana is high, the fertilizer
should contain N-P-K at a ration of 3-1-6. The amount of fertilizer depends
on the size and age of the stalk and on the number of stalks per clump.
Young plants should be started with one pound of a 6-2-12 mixture or a
similar formula applied every two months. Increase this gradually to five to
six pounds at flowering and fruiting time, 10 months later.
PRUNING 9) Prune or de-sucker the plants at least once a month. Allow only one or
two suckers with well-developed underground stems and narrow, sword-like
leaves to survive. De-sucker the plants before the side-shoots reach two
feet in height.
PROPPING 10) To protect heavily bearing plants from wind damage and collapse, prop
them up with bamboo poles. Two bamboo poles are tied together and
opened like a pair of big scissors. Place the neck of the plant between the
poles.
BAGGING 11) You can use plastic bags to wrap developing fruit
OF FRUIT bunches to prevent peel scratching by birds and bats, sun scalding, fungal
infections (which cause spots and discoloration), and infestation by insects.
The upper part of the bag should be tied to the neck of the bunch and its
lower end should be left open. Remove the bags during harvesting.
CONTROL 12) The serious diseases that will attack your banana are
OF DISEASES the following: Panama disease (also known as banana wilt and vascular
wilt), sigatoka disease, pitting disease, and Bunchy Top disease. You can
control and/or prevent their occurrence by planting resistant varieties,
spraying fungicides, and practicing field sanitation.
CONTROL 13) A common pest is the banana weevil which attacks the
OF INSECTS corms. It can be controlled by sanitation, by cutting affected corms, and by
spraying with chemicals. Another pest is the red rust thrip, which destroys
the leaves. It may be controlled by spraying with chemicals.
HARVESTING 14) Saba may be harvested 15 to 16 months after planting (MAP); Lakatan,
14 to 15 MAP; Dwarf Cavendish, 8 MAP; and Giant Cavendish, 6 to 7 MAP.
The usual practice in harvesting bananas in the country is to cut the bunch
when they are green at varying stages of maturity.
To harvest bananas, make a deep cut about the middle of the stalk or trunk
and allow the top to fall gradually until the bunch can be caught or grasped
by a worker below. The bunch is then cut, leaving a fruit stalk long enough
for the bunch to be grasped and carried.
HOW TO GROW BARBADOS CHERRY (MALPIGHIA GLABRA)
IMPORTANCE 1) How would you like to grow a valuable fruit tree in your garden that will
bear fruit within six months? A tree that provides fruit with the highest
known source of vitamin C? A tree that is attractive and easy to
propagate? If you are interested in these qualities, then growing Barbados
Cherry might be a worthwhile project for you.
USES 2) The fruit, which is sour and turns bright cherry red when ripe, can either
be eaten plain, preserved, or crushed and strained and mixed with sugar
and water to make delicious juice or ice candy. Three ripe fruits provide a
full day's supply of vitamin C (one fruit has eight times as much vitamin C as
one calamansi or calamondin).
ADAPTATION 3) The climate in most regions of the country is suited for growing the
Barbados Cherry. In planting this fruit tree, select an area in your farm or
home lot where the soil is fertile, deep and well-drained.
PROPAGATION 4) You can propagate Barbados Cherry by hardwood cuttings, marcotting,
and budding or layering. But the best method is by marcotting.
MARCOTTING 5) Marcotting is done by growing roots on a branch while the branch is still
part of the tree. The branch with the new roots is then cut off and planted.
Below are the steps in marcotting:
a) Select a woody branch thicker than a pencil. Near the
end of the branch use a sharp knife to remove a 1/4"
strip of bark. Carefully clean the exposed strip, thus
removing the cambium layer.
b) Make a ball of moist clay soil or moss and place it
around the exposed cut. Wrap securely with plastic and
tie both ends.
c) When roots are visible through the plastic (1-2 months),
cut the new marcott from the mother tree. Remove about
one-half to two-thirds of the leaves and prune for a
balanced shape. Remove the plastic and transplant to a
prepared seedling bag, taking care not to damage the
delicate young roots while handling. Water it thoroughly
Allow the seedling to "harden" in the shade for
three to four weeks or until new leaves begin to grow.
LAND 6) If planted on the farm, it is better to plant Barbados
PREPARATION Cherry in a land previously plowed and planted to other crops. But if the
land has been idle for some time and is weedy, it should be plowed and
harrowed at least two times in order to eliminate the weeds and loosen the
soil.
PLANTING 7) Follow the recommended steps in planting Barbados Cherry:
PROCEDURE
- The distance between the holes for the plants is three
to four meters in a square pattern.
- Dig a hole one-and-a-half feet deep and one-and-a-half
feet in diameter. Then fill half of the hole with mixed
soil consisting of one-third animal manure, one-third
sand, and one-third garden soil.
- Remove the plastic bag covering the marcotted Barbados
Cherry with a sharp blade or knife. Then gently set
the plant inside the hole, gradually covering with pulverized
top soil.
- Finish filling the hole with top soil, packing it lightly
until the hole is filled up to ground level.
- After planting, water the plant abundantly and
regularly thereafter, making sure the area where the
roots are concentrated is sufficiently wet so it can
provide moisture needed to sustain the growth of the
marcot until the next watering.
FERTILIZATION 8) The amount and the kind of fertilizer to apply depend upon the soil fertility
of your area. As a general guide, one to two handfuls of complete fertilizer
(14-14-14) per plant will be enough. Frequency of application depends
upon the growth of your plants.
SPRAYING 9) Spray your plants regularly with insecticide like Malathion to get rid of
insects destructive to Barbados Cherry. Follow carefully what is
recommended on the manufacturer's label.
HARVESTING 10) The Barbados Cherry will bear fruit four to six months after planting. The
fruits are ready to harvest when they look cherry red.
HOW TO MAKE BASKET COMPOST
WHAT IS 1) Basket composting is the process by which your home garbage,
BASKET garden and farm waste and leguminous plants like ipil-ipil leaves
COMPOSTING? are allowed to rot in baskets which are half buried in garden plots.
The resulting product is called basket compost. The purpose of basket
composting is to directly use plant nutrients that can be derived from the
rotting materials for home food production.
BENEFITS 2) Basket composting will give you these benefits:
a. You can immediately use the basket compost without waiting for the
usual 3 to 4 months period as is necessary in the old method of composting.
b. It requires less work because you don't need to turn the composting
materials.
c. Your home and its surroundings will become cleaner because garbage
and waste are collected and decomposed in compost baskets.
d. There is higher vegetable crop production at less cost.
MATERIALS 3) The materials needed are all available in your backyard:
NEEDED
a. Any old round baskets of at least 1 foot in diameter and 1 foot in
height. Stakes or wire could be used by forming them into shapes of round
baskets. The purpose of the basket is to hold your composting materials in
place.
b. All home organic garbage, farm and garden wastes, weeds and grasses
which can be gathered while cleaning and preparing your garden
plots. Leaves of nitrogen fixing trees/shrubs (NFT/S) such as Flemingia
macrophylla, Leucaena leucocephala, Desmodium rensonii, Indigofera anil,
Glircicidia sepium , etc., if available, are excellent materials for basket
composting.
c. Any farm manure which will be the source of rotting organisms and
nitrogen.
PROCEDURE 4) You can modify or improve the procedure in basket composting.
Generally, this is how it is done:
a. Clean your garden site and prepare the garden plots thoroughly. Save
weeds and grasses for composting materials.
b. Make holes in the garden plots large enough to accommodate the size of
your baskets. The baskets should be one meter apart. Then half bury the
baskets in the holes.
c. Place the most decomposed garbage and manure into the
basket first. The un-decomposed materials like ipil-ipil leaves, grasses and
weeds should be placed into the basket last.
d. If the materials placed in the bottom part of the basket are almost
decomposed, you can immediately plant your seeds or seedlings 2 to 3
inches outside the baskets. Do not plant inside the basket.
e. If the materials placed in the baskets are green leaves, plant your seeds
or seedlings 2 to 3 weeks later. This will give the materials enough time to
start decomposing. If you use green leaves of ipil-ipil you need at least 5
kilos to start it. Add 2 kilos of leaves every two weeks. In this way, you need
not to buy commercial fertilizer for your plants.
f. Water only at the center of the basket instead of watering the plants. The
lower part of the basket is cool, moist, and has abundant nutrients for your
crops. Later on, the roots will grow into the basket.
g. Unlike the old procedure of composting, you don't need to turn the rotting
materials. Just keep on adding new and un-decomposed materials.
h. After harvesting your garden crops, remove the contents of the baskets
and spread them evenly around the baskets, working the decomposed
materials into the soil. This will act as a starter for the next plants until roots
are able to penetrate into the baskets where abundant plant feeds are
available.
BASKET 5) Here is how basket composting will look in your garden
COMPOSTING plots.
IN YOUR
PLOT
CROPS FOR 6) Some garden crops which have been successful with the use
USE WITH of basket composting are tomatoes, pepper, beans, soybeans, sweet
COMPOST corn, lima beans, acorn squash, eggplant, and okra. You can try
other vegetables also.
HOW TO GROW BLACK PEPPER (PIPER NIGRUM)
IMPORTANCE 1) Black pepper is one of the most important spices raised in the
Philippines. It is used by food manufacturers and cooks as a seasoning for
special and ordinary dishes.
VARIETIES 2) Varieties of black pepper are generally classified into four groups,
namely: large-leafed, small-leafed, tall, and short. You can plant any of
these varieties in your farm or backyard. It is best to buy your rooted plants
from farmers who are producing black pepper seedlings.
PROPAGATION 3) Black pepper can be propagated by cuttings or by seeds. With either
method, it is necessary to have a propagation bed where the cuttings can be
rooted or the seeds germinated and nursed to transplanting age. The
seedling bed should be of fine, rich soil and should be in a shaded area. It
should be kept constantly moist but not wet until the plants are ready for
transplanting.
SUPPORTS 4) Since black pepper is a creeping plant, it needs posts to climb on. The
supports must be at least three to four meters high, 2.5 meters between
rows.
Commonly used support trees include legumes like the madre de cacao or
kakawate (Gliricidia sepium ), ipil-ipil (Leucaena leucocephala ), and the dapdap
(Erythrina spp.).
TRANSPLANTING 5) Transplant the rooted seedlings at the start of the rainy season. Plant
two or three seedlings a few centimeters away from the base of each
support tree. Before placing the plants in the prepared holes, carefully
remove the plastic bags holding the plants and soil.
SOIL AND 6) The land for black pepper may vary from flat to gently
CLIMATIC sloping, but sloping land should be terraced. Black
REQUIREMENTS pepper grows well in many types of soil. Deep and well-drained soil rich in
organic matter is best. It should not be planted in waterlogged areas. A
warm, humid climate is ideal. Black pepper needs 100 to 300 centimeters of
rainfall per year.
FERTILIZATION 7) Use compost, dried chicken manure, other animal manures and/or one
tablespoon of 16-20-0 or 14-14-14 per plant.
WEEDING 8) Remove the weeds growing between the rows of black pepper to reduce
the competition between the weeds and black pepper for water and
nutrients, air and sunlight. Also, ring-weed the plants. Place the cut weeds
around the plants as mulch, especially during the dry season. Do not use
thick mulch materials during the rainy season. Decaying mulch materials
may serve as breeding sites for harmful microorganisms during the wet
months.
CARE OF THE 9) Black pepper should not be allowed to grow tall. As the
PLANTS vines climb the supports, the tops should be pulled down at the desired
height of two to three meters. Every three months, manure or compost
should be applied to each hill to maintain plant growth.
PEST 10) Two common insects attacking black pepper are the leaf-
MANAGEMENT hopper and the mealy bug. To control these, spray the plants with either
Sevin 85S, Malathion or Thiodan.
Black pepper is also attacked by root grubs and African snails. To prevent
root grubs, select a well-drained area for planting. Control the snails with
poison bait which you can obtain from commercial agricultural stores.
Another way to control the snails is to simply crush them and place them
around the plants to decompose and become organic fertilizer. Ants should
be prevented from building their nests around the pepper plants.
CONTROL 11) Diseases found to cause damage are "sudden death"
OF DISEASES disease, wilt, and "pollu" disease. Sudden death is believed to be caused
by eelworms and root fungus. No effective control measures have been
found although pulling and burning infected plant parts may prevent spread.
"Pollu" disease, characterized by hollow and light berries, is caused by
insect damage (flea beetles and gall fly), fungus attack (Colectotricum
spp.) or physiological disturbances of the plants that cause the premature
shedding of spikes. This disease can be partly controlled by spraying the
vines with Bordeaux mixture and insecticides.
HARVESTING 12) The first harvest of black pepper berries is on its third year. The spikes
are ready for harvest when several berries attached to them have turned
red. Remove the spikes by hand from the vines. Rub the berries off by
hand or beat them lightly with a stick to separate them from the spikes.
On the third year, the first harvest varies from one half to one kilogram per
plant. At the age of seven years, the yield is approximately 1.5 kilograms
per plant.
DRYING 13) After harvesting, dry berries immediately under the sunlight until they
become black and wrinkled. The ideal remaining moisture content of black
pepper is 12 percent. Dried berries can be stored for long periods of time.
MAKING 14) Black pepper is sold in the market in two forms--black
WHITE PEPPER and white. If the latter is desired, select the best and ripest berries and
submerge them in water for one to two weeks to let them soften. After
soaking, allow the berries to ferment before removing the outer hull.
HOW TO RAISE BROILER CHICKENS
IMPORTANCE 1) Protein is one of the most important elements in our daily diet.
Production of broiler (or meat-type) chickens is one way to provide protein in
your diet and to provide additional income for your family.
CONSIDERATIONS 2) Before deciding to raise broilers, you should consider
IN BROILER the following factors: (1) interest plus knowledge on
RAISING broiler production, (2) water supply, (3) availability of feed and veterinary
supplies, (4) market and (5) the peace and order situation in your area.
STOCK 3) If you want to produce high-quality chicken meat, you have to raise
SELECTION broilers that are adaptable to local conditions, available any time of the year,
and if possible, resistant to diseases. Some of the most common broilers in
the country are Arbor Acres, Cobb, Hubbard, Peterson Chicks, and Stanbre.
SITE 4) Build your broiler house in an area with good drainage
SELECTION and plenty of water.
BROILER 5) A broiler house should protect the birds from rains,
HOUSE strong winds, and extremes of temperature. It should be easy to
clean. Provide one-half square foot of floor space per bird.
BROODING 6) There are two types of brooding: natural and artificial. In natural
brooding the mother hen provides the heat, but this system is good only for
a limited number of chicks. Artificial brooding makes use of electric lamps,
bulbs, etc. as sources of heat for the chicks.
FEEDS AND 7) There are three types of commercial feeds available in
FEEDING the market today: the broiler starter, the broiler finisher, and the
straight broiler mash. Starter rations contain about 24-25% protein.
Finisher rations are about 20-21% protein. The straight broiler or all-purpose
mash contains 22% protein.
The starter ration is fed to the birds during the first 5 weeks. From 5 weeks
to marketing age (8 weeks) the finishing ration is fed. If you prefer to use the
all-purpose ration, feed this from the start up to marketing age.
The following ration is one which you can mix yourself:
Tikitiki (rice bran) ................. 16 kilos
Soybean meal ..........………. 15 "
Binlud or crushed corn ……. 10 "
Copra meal ............…………. 4 "
Ipil-ipil leaf meal ...…………… 3 "
Limestone ............………….... 1 "
Meat & bone meal ........ …….. 1 "
Salt ..................……………… 0.2 "
Afsillin ..............…………….. 0.1 "
Total 50.3 kilos
FEED CONSUMPTION AND FEED CONVERSION OF BROILER CHICKS
====================================================================
Age of Chicks Average Weekly Feed Cumulative Feed Consumption
(Days) Weight Consumption per kilo of weight gain
====================================================================
0 43 gm. NA NA
1 - 7 74 " 85 gm. 1.15 kilos
8 - 14 154 " 125 " 1.37 "
15 - 21 269 " 225 " 1.62 "
22 - 28 423 " 348 " 1.85 "
29 - 35 628 " 429 " 1.93 "
36 - 42 868 " 637 " 2.13 "
43 - 49 1123 " 723 " 2.50 "
50 - 60 1384 " 890 " 2.50 "
====================================================================
SOURCE: SEARCA, ”A Training Manual for Poultry Production”
DISEASE 9) The most economical and best way to control disease
PREVENTION is through prevention, which could be achieved by proper
AND CONTROL management, effective sanitation and a vaccination program. Even
with all the precautionary procedures, however, communicable diseases still
strike.
The following symptoms are early signs of disease: sudden drop in feed
consumption, difficulty in breathing, disturbed feathers, irritation, cloudy
eyes and pale mucous membranes, and drop in weight.
In case you suspect disease in your broilers, you need to isolate the
affected birds right away. Consult your veterinarian or any other authority to
determine the exact cause of the disease and how to treat it. Birds which
die should be burned or buried.
MARKETING 10) Broilers are marketed at 7-8 weeks of age. Plan the right time to
produce your broilers so they will be ready for sale when the demand is
highest. Studies show that the months of November and December are the
best marketing times for broilers. It may be possible to locate buyers right in
your own community...especially in areas where the family income is
generally high.
HOW TO GROW CACAO (THEOBROMA CACAO)
IMPORTANCE 1) Cacao is the source of the delicious chocolate drink. It is also used in
flavoring candies, pastries and ice cream. The cacao oil is used in the
manufacture of cosmetics (lipstick, facial creams, etc.) because it does not
become smelly. It is also used in pharmaceuticals as a base for important
antibiotics. For your own home consumption and to increase your income,
plant cacao either in your farm or backyard.
VARIETIES 2) There are three common varieties of cacao from which you can choose:
the Criollo (the native variety), the Forastero and the Trinitario.
ADAPTATION 3) Plant cacao in areas where the rainfall is evenly distributed throughout
the year. It grows well in a clay loam soil that is rich in organic matter.
Cacao likes partially shaded sites; therefore you can grow it under coconut
trees. For open areas, you can grow shade trees like ipil-ipil (Leucaena
leucocephala ) and/or madre de cacao (Gliricidia sepium ), but you need to
plant the trees six months ahead of the cacao.
PROPAGATION 4) Cacao is usually propagated by means of seeds. Select your seeds from
big pods obtained from strong, healthy and most productive trees. Remove
first the slimy covering of the seeds by rubbing them with ashes or
fermenting them for a day and then washing off the slimy covering with
water. Cacao seeds cannot be stored for a
long time; therefore, they must be planted immediately after taking them
from the pods.
GROWING 5) Prepare plastic bags (size: 15 cm x 20 cm x .002 mil) by
SEEDLINGS making holes at the bottom for drainage. Fill each bag with fertile and
easily crumbled top soil. Plant your seeds in the prepared plastic bags 2
centimeters deep and with their radicle (root point) down.
You must provide shade for your seedlings. After two
months, or when the leaves of your seedlings are already mature and hard,
you can transplant them in the field.
LAND 6) Prepare your land by clearing all underbrush. Measure
PREPARATION distances of 2.5 to 3.0 meters apart and put stakes for
AND your guide. Dig holes big enough to accommodate the
TRANSPLANTING ball of soil around the roots of your seedlings. To prevent damaging the
roots of your seedlings, cut the plastic bags with a sharp knife and lower
carefully the seedlings into their respective holes. Cover first with topsoil
then the subsoil. Water after transplanting. If possible, plant cacao at the
start of the rainy season.
WEEDING 7) Control weeds by ring weeding about one meter around the trees.
Weeding should be done only when necessary. Ring weed young cacao
plants at least once a month during the rainy season. In sloping areas you
can plant cover crops like wild peanut (Arahcis pintoi ).
FERTILIZATION 8) Start fertilizing your cacao plants when you think it is needed or at one
year after planting. Fertilize your non-bearing cacao plants with complete
fertilizer (14-14-14) at one-half kilo per tree per year. As for bearing plants,
provide them the same kind of fertilizer at one kilo per tree per year. Split
your application into two: one-half at the start of the rainy season and the
other half six months later. In the absence of commercial fertilizer, you can
use ipil-ipil and madre de cacao leaves and/or manure.
MULCHING 9) A mulch of ipil-ipil leaves or grasses around the trees will lessen the need
for weeding. It will also maintain the fertility and the organic matter content
of your soil.
PRUNING 10) Prune your cacao trees to remove unwanted growth. This will make
spraying and harvesting easier. In addition, it will help control pests and
diseases and maintain high yields.
PEST 11) Cacao pod borer is the most serious pest of cacao. To
MANAGEMENT reduce damage by this pest, cover all developing fruits with plastic bags.
Insects can be controlled by spraying Malathion or any recommended
insecticides. Be sure to follow the dosage written on the label.
The most common cacao diseases are black rot and stem canker, which are
caused by fungus. They can be controlled by spraying fungicides like
Dithane. You can also control the spread of these diseases by removing
and burning infected fruits, stems and heavily infected trees.
HARVESTING 12) Harvest only mature pods. Pods are mature when they change color:
from red to yellowish orange and green to yellow. Remove the beans by
breaking the pods.
FERMENTATION 13) Ferment the cacao beans after they have been extracted. Fermentation
is accomplished by putting the mass of seeds in a box provided with 20-30
holes or in a basket. Stir the seeds at least once a day for three to seven
days for uniform fermentation. When a cut section of a bean shows an
outer brown ring, you can then dry and store the beans. Beans can be
safely stored at eight per cent moisture content.
HOW TO GROW CALAMANSI (CITRUS MITIS VAR. MICROCARPA)
USEFULNESS OF 1) Calamansi is the most popular and commonly used citrus fruit in the
CALAMANSI Philippines. Its juice, which is rich in minerals and vitamin C, makes a
nutritious fruit drink. It helps to prevent respiratory diseases, strengthens the
bones and stimulates growth. Every household recognizes calamansi as a
medicine, a kitchen ingredient, a beauty concoction and an essential fruit
drink. You can have a year round supply of this versatile citrus fruit by
growing the plant in your home lot.
SOIL AND 2) It is easy to cultivate calamansi. The plant grows well in cool and
CLIMATIC elevated areas. It thrives best in rich and sandy soil.
REQUIREMENTS
PROPAGATING 3) You can buy calamansi seedlings from the Mindanao Baptist
CALAMANSI Rural Life Center. Plant the seedlings five meters apart. If you are
planting grafted calamansi, dig a hole at least 40 centimeters in
diameter and 40 centimeters deep. Set the seedling into the hole and
put back the soil mixed with compost. Water the plant daily.
FERTILIZATION 4) If you want to produce big, luscious fruits, fertilize the plants
regularly. One month after planting, apply 50 to 100 grams (which is
about one handful) of Urea and 16-20-0 (mixed) around each tree.
Fertilize every four months.
Starting on the second year, increase the fertilizer to 200 or 300
grams (Urea and 16-20-0 mixed) per tree every four months.
The tree bears fruits after 1 to 2 years. By that time you should apply
complete fertilizer like12-24-12 at the rate of 1.5 kilos per tree to
increase fruit yield. By the time your tree is 8-10 years old you should
increase the fertilizer to two to three kilos per tree three times per
year.
Apply the fertilizer properly by mixing it with the soil. Cover the soil
around each tree with dry leaves to conserve moisture. Uproot weeds
when necessary.
Apply fertilizer to producing trees three times yearly: first, during the
rainy season before flowering; second, two months after flowering;
and the last, after harvesting.
PESTS AND 5) To keep the trees healthy, protect them from pests and
THEIR diseases. To control citrus bark borers, spray the trees
CONTROL with EPN 300 solution. You can also use copper fungicide for the
same problem. To prevent the pest from spreading, cut off the infected parts
and burn them.
The aphid is another harmful pest. To control aphids, spray the trees with
either Malathion solution (3 tablespoons in 5 gallons water), Methyl
Parathion (2 tablespoons in 5 gallons water), or Diazinon (3 tablespoons in
5 gallons water). If aphids have already attacked, cut off the infected
portions and burn them.
Other harmful pests are the Purple Scale and Glover's Scale. Insecticides
effective in controlling these pests include: EPN (3 tablespoons in 5 gallons
water), lime sulfur (15 tablespoons in 5 gallons water), Malathion (3
tablespoons in 5 gallons water), or Methyl Parathion (2 tablespoons in 5
gallons water).
DISEASES 6) Calamansi is prone to diseases such as Gummosis and
AND THEIR citrus scab. Gummosis is caused by either a lack or
CONTROL excess of fertilizer or damage done by insect pests or farm machineries. To
control both of these diseases, spray the plant with Zerlate or any
recommended fungicide solutions.
HARVESTING 7) Calamansi trees will start to bear fruit after one or two
THE FRUITS years. To harvest, detach the fruits from the branch either manually or
using a scissor. Take care not to damage the branches or the leaves. You
will have better quality fruit if you leave a portion of the stem attached to the
fruit and do not tear the skin of the fruit when you harvest.
You can sell the extra fruits in markets, hotels or restaurants. Use calamansi
in your daily intake of fruit drinks.
HOW TO GROW CASSAVA (MANIHOT ESCULENTA)
IMPORTANCE 1) Cassava, locally known as "kamoteng kahoy" or "balanghoy," deserves
more attention than it presently receives. It has many different uses, and
even its by-products can be used.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of cassava grown throughout the country. For
food production, the following are recommended by the experts: Golden
Yellow, Katabang, Macan, and Brazil. If you want to grow cassava for starch
production, plant Java Brown or Hawaiian 5. Other common varieties
include Rough Intermediate, White Smooth Intermediate, Kapo White, Kapo
Colorado, Aipin Manteiga, and Vasscurinha. The poisonous variety is called
Bogor
CLIMATIC 3) You can grow cassava any time of the year. But you can
RANGE not grow cassava in a very cool area with a high altitude. For optimum
growth and best performance, plant cassava in a warm climate with a
well distributed rainfall of 1,000 to 2,000 millimeters per year.
TYPE OF 4) Cassava grows in different kinds of soils, but for best
SOILS root development you need to plant it in a deep, well drained, easily
crumbled soil._ _
PROPAGATION 5) Cassava is planted through stem cuttings. The best planting materials
come from healthy and mature plants at least 1.5 meters high. The stem
with brown bark can be cut into 18-inch planting material. The stem among
the leaves should not be used.
As soon as you get the trunks and cut them into planting materials,
you need to plant them immediately before they dry out and lose their
vigor. But you can store the cuttings for up to 10 days provided you
bundle them under a wet cloth or other covering.
LAND 6) Prepare your land for planting cassava in the same way as
PREPARATION you do for other crops. Be sure to plow deep or dig with a shovel to
enable the tubers to grow big. Usually plowing and harrowing are
done twice or three times depending on the soil and how many weeds
you have.
PLANTING 7) You should plant cassava at the end of the dry season or
SEASON at the start of the rainy season. This will ensure that the cuttings you
planted will get enough water to sprout and grow well.
PLANTING 8) You can plant cassava cuttings 100 centimeters between
DISTANCES rows and 75 centimeters between plants in the row. Where ridge
planting is used, the distance between ridges is usually 120
centimeters.
METHODS OF 9) If the soil is dry, plant the cuttings lying down and
PLANTING cover with soil to prevent them from drying up. If the soil is moist, you
can plant the cuttings standing with about five centimeters of the tops
above the soil. Planting the stem cutting in a slanted position is the
desired method of planting. This allows uniform distribution of tubers
and makes harvesting easier.
WEEDING 10) Weeds usually develop in the cassava field, especially after it
rains. The first weeding should be done as early as two weeks after
planting, and the second weeding one month after planting. Then
weed the field for the last time two months before harvesting.
CULTIVATION 11) Cultivate your cassava field three weeks after planting either with the
use of hand tools or by passing a carabaodrawn
plow between rows.
Cultivation is done to kill the weeds and to break the soil that has hardened
due to rain. Avoid cultivating the field two months after planting since the
tubers will have started to develop.
FERTILIZA- 12) The usual rate of fertilizer is 50 to 100 kilos of
TION nitrogen per hectare, plus 50 to 100 kilos of phosphorous, and 75 to 120
kilos of potassium...but cassava has the ability to produce on very poor soil.
PEST 13) Cassava is one of the most insect-resistant plants in
CONTROL agriculture. Spider mites, mound building termites, cerambycid borers, corn
silk beetles, scale insects, mealy bugs, and white-¬flies occasionally attack
cassava, but you can control them by using insecticides such as Malathion
or Sevin, following the manufacturer's recommendations.
DISEASE 14) Disease incidence in cassava fields is very rare.
CONTROL However, the following are reported to be attacking cassava
occasionally: cercospora leafspot, bacterial blight, tuber rot, and tip blight.
These diseases can be controlled or eliminated by spraying affected plants
with fungicides such as Manzate and Parzate.
HARVESTING 15) Varieties used for food may be harvested as early as 4 months after
planting. If the entire field is to be harvested at one time, you need to cut the
stems just before harvesting. After doing this, you can start pulling them by
hand or with the aid of hand tools. If progressive harvesting is to be done,
select only the marketable tubers from a plant. Then replace the soil to
cover the hole.
STORING 16) The cassava root has a very high perish ability. Cassava tubers should
be milled into starch or consumed as food within twenty-four hours after
harvest or they will deteriorate. You can, however, store cassava tubers by
putting them in a dark place. Or you can bury them directly in either clay
loam or sandy soil.
HOW TO FATTEN CATTLE IN YOUR BACKYARD
INTRODUCTION 1) Cattle raising is a profitable project you can make in your home lot. It will
provide you a good source of extra income while working on your farm.
CATTLE BREEDS 2) Our native stock, the so-called Philippine cattle, is a dual-purpose type. It
is raised for beef purposes and can be used in plowing the field. The most
popular of our native cattle is the Batangas strain. Other recommended
breed of cattle for fattening is the Brahman.
FEEDER STOCK 3) In selecting feeder stock, carefully consider the following: the
SELECTION price of the animal at various ages, its weight, and its quality.
Buy an animal that is active and healthy. The eyes should be bright, the hair
coat soft and smooth, and the nose and jaws moist.
BUYING 4) It is generally cheaper to buy feeder stock directly from ranches
FEEDERS than in a livestock market.
Feeder cattle are classified as steers, bulls, heifers or cows. Bulls are uncastrated
males, steers are castrated males and heifers or cows are
females. Generally bulls grow faster than steers or heifers but they are more
difficult to handle.
VACCINATION 5) Stock should be properly vaccinated before you bring them home for
fattening. Refer them to the nearest Bureau of Animal Industry (BAI) office
in your area for vaccination against hoof-and-mouth disease and
hemorrhagic septicemia.
FEEDING 6) In feeding beef cattle, economy is very important. Farm-grown forage is
cheap, so it is very important that you grow your own forage crops. In
addition to forages (legumes and grasses), the cattle should also be given
grain supplements.
CONFINING 7) Confine newly-arrived feeder stock as soon as possible
NEWLY-ARRIVED in a shed or small lot where water is available. Allow
FATTENER them to eat all the low-energy feed that they can consume.
DEWORMING 8) A week after their arrival, the cattle should be de-wormed with
AND Benzimidazole compounds (Albendazole, Fenbendazole,
IMMUNIZATION Parbendazole, or Oxfendazole). In addition, immunize the animals from
major infectious diseases. Spray the feeder stock with insecticides to do
away with parasites like ticks and blood-sucking fleas.
CARE AND 9) Make water and salt available at all times. Be alert for signs of
MANAGEMENT illness. If you observe sick animals, isolate them right away.
MARKETING 10) Cattle are ready for market at about 275 to 325 kilograms.
HOW TO GROW COFFEE (COFEA SPP.)
INTRODUCTION 1) Coffee is one of the favorite hot drinks of Filipinos. Only a very few
homes from north to south of the country are without coffee to grace their
tables.
VARIETIES 2) There are four commercially known varieties of coffee grown in the
country: Arabica, Liberica, Excelsa, and Robusta.
SOIL 3) Plant coffee in a soil that is deep sandy clay loam, rich in humus,
REQUIREMENTS and with good drainage. Soil of volcanic origin is best. The tree
suffers severely in areas that are water-logged or where the water level
stays near the soil surface.
CLIMATIC 4) An environment which has a free air movement is most
REQUIREMENTS favorable to the plant's growth. Arabica can be planted 900 to 1,800
meters above sea level while Robusta, Liberica, and Excelsa can be planted
from sea level up to 900 meters above sea level.
SEED 5) Always get seeds from healthy and high-yielding trees.
SELECTION Choose only large and fully ripe berries. Avoid dry, overripe berries
left on branches. Small wrinkled, lightweight and abnormal berries should
not be used.
PROPAGATION 6) Remove the pulp from the seeds and plant them in plastic bags filled with
a fertile soil medium. When your seedlings develop six pairs of true leaves,
they are ready for transplanting.
VEGETATIVE 7) Coffee can also be propagated asexually through cloning.
PROPAGATION To reproduce a clone, split lengthwise into two halves a finger-sized vertical
shoot about one foot long with 4 to 6 nodes. Cut leaves partially before
splitting. Set nodal cuttings in germination boxes 1 x 2 inches apart and 1
inch deep, then place boxes in a shaded area. Nodal cuttings will produce
roots and shoots within 45 days. Then transplant seedlings into individual
plastic bags with soil. A full-grown seedling with 4 to 6 pairs of leaves could
be attained in about 6 to 8 months.
LAND 8) Prepare your land by plowing and harrowing and then by
PREPARATION digging holes. The holes for your coffee should be about 30 centimeters in
diameter and 30 centimeters deep, depending on the size and height of your
seedlings.
PLANTING 9) The distance between holes depends on the variety and
DISTANCE pruning system adopted. Here are the suggested distances for planting:
Arabica, 2-3 meters; Robusta, 3-4 meters; and Excelsa and Liberica, 4-5
meters.
FERTILIZATION 10) The general recommendation for non-bearing trees in the absence of
soil analysis is an equal amount of NPK and ammonium sulfate or urea
(from 250 to 300 grams per tree per year); and for bearing trees (7 years
and above) one kilo of 14-14-14 per tree per year plus urea side dressed at
the rate of 300 grams per tree per year.
For one to two-year-old trees, make a furrow five centimeters deep around
the plant, place recommended fertilizer in a continuous band and cover with
soil.
For fruit-bearing trees, apply the recommended fertilizer in holes or trenches
around the trees or spread the fertilizer over the area one-half meter away
from the trees.
WEEDING 11) Weeds compete with coffee plants for nutrients in the soil. Control
weeds by weeding about one meter around each plant.
PRUNING 12) This means the removal of unnecessary branches (excess, old and
dead branches) and undesirable water sprouts. Pruning is best done before
general flowering or after harvest.
MULCHING 13) Mulching your coffee plants improves soil texture, nutrients, and water
absorption and retention. It also minimizes soil erosion and lowers soil
temperature. The mulch should be as thick as possible and done
continuously.
COVERCROPPING 14) Non-climbing crops like ”Desmodium heterophylum ” or “Arachis pintoi ”
can increase organic matter, hold water and minimize soil erosion under
your coffee. The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center is one good source of
cuttings of hetero and wild peanut. Cover crops which compete with coffee
for nutrients and moisture should be used only in between rows to minimize
soil erosion.
INSECT CONTROL 15) Insects such as coffee berry borer, coffee leaf folder, scale insects, stem
borers and leaf miners cause damage in coffee. Chemicals like Malathion
and Gusathion will control these insects. Follow the recommendations on
the label.
CONTROL OF 16) Coffee rust and other diseases can be controlled by
DISEASES using copper base fungicides.
FLOWERING 17) Arabica coffee flowers in about two and one-half to three years after
transplanting. Other varieties flower somewhat later.
HARVESTING 18) Berries mature in a shorter period in lower and warmer areas than in
higher and cooler areas. Arabica berries mature after 10 to 11 months from
flowering. Robusta takes 10 months and Liberica and Excelsa, 11 to 12
months. The first harvest, however, is not yet commercial in quantity or
quality.
HOW TO GROW CORN (ZEA MAYS)
IMPORTANCE 1) Corn, or “mais” as it is commonly referred to in the Philippines, is a food
crop that is rich in starch or carbohydrates but comparatively low in
protein. It is the second staple food in the country, next to rice, but contains
more vitamin A, protein and fats than rice.
Aside from being used as a staple food, corn is also utilized for animal feeds
and can be made into oil, corn syrup, fuel, paper, and many other products.
VARIETIES 2) There are many recommended and available varieties for production.
Hybrids (HV) are available and have potential high yields, however, they
usually require high inputs and are more susceptible to diseases. Open
pollinated (OP) varieties are usually lower yielding but are true-to-type in
that the seeds can be saved over and over and still produce the same
variety with little or no loss of yield and characteristic. Composite varieties
are popular in that they are a step above open pollinated varieties but still
not dependent on chemical inputs for good yields.
Our favorite open pollinated varieties used at the RLC include: Tiniguib (a
traditional white corn) and Hawaiian Super Sweet (a delicious sweet corn for
eating). These varieties can easily be grown and perpetuated by the local
farm family.
Our favorite composite varieties include: DMR 1 and 2 (Downy Mildew
Resistance) and USMARC 1 and 2. These are proven local composites that
have good food and feed values. Each has a yellow and a white variety. The
yellow corn is usually used for feed. The white for human consumption.
CLIMATIC 3) Corn grows best in a warm sunny climate with sufficient
RANGE water supply. A rainfall of 200 mm to 1500 mm is needed during its
growing period.
SOILS 4) The best soil for corn is one which is well drained and with a texture of silt
loam or loam type. Light sandy soils, gravelly soils and heavy clays do not
induce healthy root development. Soil which is deep, well pulverized, and
yet fairly compact is excellent for corn.
LAND 5) Plowing should be done when the soil is moist. For an
PREPARATION animal-drawn plow, a depth of 4-6 cm is enough. The field should be
harrowed after plowing and again within two days before planting to level
the soil.
PLANTING 6) The two most common methods of planting corn are:
METHODS a) surface or flat-bed planting in which seeds are drilled or hill-planted; b)
ridge planting in which the seeds are placed on top of the ridge. In sloping
areas, corn should be planted in contour rows.
DEPTH OF 7) If the soil contains considerable moisture at planting
PLANTING time, the seeds should be planted from 2-5 cm. deep. In
dry soil the seeds should be planted 5-8 cm deep.
SPACING 8) You need 6-7 gantas (cups) of good seeds to plant a hectare.
The rows should be spaced at 75 cm with hill spacing of 50 cm
with 2 plants per hill or drilled at 25 cm between hills with one plant to each
hill.
FERTILIZA- 9) Corn requires an abundance of nitrogen and liberal amounts
TION of phosphate and potash. It also needs considerable amounts of
calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. The recommended rate of fertilizer to be
applied per hectare is 90 kilos of nitrogen, 30 kilos of phosphorous, and 30
kilos of potash.
During dry season, it is advisable that you apply all the recommended
amounts of fertilizer just before planting.
A basal application and side-dressing application are recommended for wet
season. One half of the recommended amount of nitrogen fertilizer is
applied at planting time while phosphorous and potassium are applied in the
furrow and then covered. The remaining half of the nitrogen is side-dressed
4-5 weeks after germination or when the corn
plants are about knee-high.
If commercial fertilizer is very expensive, you can use leaves of nitrogen
fixing plants (tree/shrubs). One hundred kilos of dry NFT/S leaves can give
you 4.0 kilos of nitrogen, 2.0 kilos of phosphorus and 1.5 kilos of potassium.
(Three kilos of fresh NFT/S leaves produce approximately one kilo of dry
leaves.)
CULTIVATION 10) Cultivate your corn in order to control weeds. Weeds can also be
AND WEEDING suppressed by hand pulling, hoeing and by application of herbicides.
PEST 11) The following destructive insects will attack your corn: white
CONTROL grubs, armyworms, cutworms, corn borer, corn ear-worm, rice weevil,
lesser grain borer, flour beetle, rice moth, and maggots. You can control
these insects by spraying chemicals, handpicking, or removing and burning
infested corn plants.
DISEASE 12) Downy mildew, leaf rust, leaf spot, kernel blast, ear and
CONTROL stalk rot, bacterial leaf stripe, rhizoctonia disease, corn smut, and
pythium root rot are diseases that infect corn. Control them by planting
resistant varieties, by spraying chemicals, by removing and burning infected
corn, and by practicing crop rotation.
HARVESTING 13) Harvest your corn when the ears are mature. This is usually 110-115
days after planting. Remove the husk and dry to about 15% moisture.
HOW TO RAISE DUCKS WITH FISH AND SNAILS
IMPORTANCE 1) Ducks, fish, and snails can be grown together in the same pond without
these animals competing with each other for food. By growing them
together, you can maximize production and increase your income.
AREA OF 2) This depends on the size of your lot, but the minimum size should
THE POND be at least fifty square meters per dozen ducks.
POND SITE 3) Be sure to construct your pond in a site where a steady supply
SELECTION of water is available. It must receive sunlight throughout the day.
POND 4) When you dig your pond, see to it that the side where you
CONSTRUCTION drain the water is deeper than the other side. This will facilitate
draining your pond and harvesting the fish. Dig out just enough soil to
maintain a water depth of 1/2 to 3/4 meter. Use the excavated soil to
construct dikes. The dikes should be thicker at the base than at the top to
prevent erosion.
Next, install a water control gate near the water source and drainage canal.
Provide the gate with a wire screen with one-square-centimeter holes. The
screen should be placed before the gate door.
MANURING 5) Cow dung, pig dung, chicken droppings, duck manure, kitchen
THE POND waste, compost, and green manure such as green leaves and grasses can
be used to fertilize your pond. Spread the manure on the surface at the rate
of five kilograms for every 50 square meters.
You can also use commercial fertilizer. Broadcast evenly one-fourth
kilogram of urea and one-fourth kilogram of 12-24-12 on every 50 square
meters of surface.
FILLING THE 6) After applying fertilizer, let water into the pond and leave the
POND pond for two weeks to allow algae to grow.
STOCKING 7) For this project, the recommended fish breed is ”Tilapia
OF FISH nilotica.” It grows fast and starts breeding in five months. Unlike ”Tilapia
mossambica”, nilotica does not need frequent restocking in ponds and
separation of male from female fish. Stock 2-3 tilapia per square meter.
BUILDING OF 8) Construct the duck house in one side above the water of your
THE DUCK pond. For a pond area of 50 square meters, 12 to 15 ducks are
HOUSE sufficient. Provide two males and 10 to 13 females. Build them a house with
a floor area of 4 square meters or 6 by 6 feet. The floor should be made of
bamboo or wooden slats. In addition, build a swimming pen beside the duck
house with an area equal to the floor area of the house.
BREED OF 9) The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center recommends the
DUCK TO Khaki Campbell duck for this project. Compared to other
RAISE duck breeds, the Khaki Campbell is bigger in size and best for egg
production. If you cannot secure this breed, start with the native or Pateros
duck.
RAISING OF 10) Instead of becoming a full-fledged rural industry supplying protein for
GOLDEN APPLE the Filipino diet, the backyard raising of golden apple snail turned into a
SNAILS serious problem in rice fields. But while rice farmers consider golden apple
snail a pest, duck raisers consider it a good source of protein for ducks.
With proper water management and use of ducks, the snails can be
controlled in the rice fields. (See "How to Raise Golden Apple Snails.")
The golden snail contains almost all the nutrients that ducks need. Snail
meat provides protein and iron and its fat gives energy. The shell contains
calcium, phosphorus, vitamins and minerals. Ducks given good quality
snails have a very high egg production.
DUCK 11) The ducks are fed with a ration of one part snail, one
FEEDING one part rice bran, and one part palay (un-husked rice) or broken
corn. They should also be given green leaves like kangkong (Ipomea
aquatica) and leguminous cover crops.
DUCK 12) Feed and water your ducks regularly every morning and
MANAGEMENT afternoon. They will start laying eggs at five to six-months. Maximum
egg production lasts for 1-1/2 to 2 years.
Before gathering the eggs, first lead the ducks out to their swimming
pen. Then gather their eggs and clean their feeding troughs by scraping
wasted feed towards the water where the fish are waiting. The feeds will be
eaten by the fish, and duck manure will fertilize the pond and promote algae
growth.
SNAIL 13) Feeding is not a problem for golden apple snail. This snail
FEEDING eats almost anything: vegetables, tree leaves, aquatic ferns, and even
kitchen leftovers.
HARVESTING 14) Harvest full-grown tilapia at least once every two weeks. This
TILAPIA is both economical and necessary because if the fish in the pond multiply
too fast, the food for fish will become inadequate. This will result in small,
stunted fish.
CONCLUSION 15) This duck-fish-snail integration technology is an efficient feed conversion
project. Fish, duck eggs and snails can provide high protein food for your
family and the surplus can be sold.
HOW TO RAISE DUCKS
IMPORTANCE 1) More and more Filipinos are now raising ducks in their backyard.
OF DUCK Ducks are productive for a longer period of time than chickens.
RAISING Generally, only about one-half or one-third of the laying flock has to
be replaced each year.
Duck raising offers another advantage: The birds don't require any
complicated housing with plenty of windows, droppings-boards,
perches, nest boxes, etc. Generally, you can keep ducks in simple
sheds at night and let them loose during the day.
BREEDS 2) There are different breeds of ducks which you can raise: the
Philippine duck (commonly known as ”itik”), the Khaki Campbell, the
Indian Runner, the Peking duck, and the Muscovy. The first three
breeds are excellent egg layers. For meat production, raise either the
Peking or the Muscovy.
BUYING 3) Buy your breeding stock from reliable duck raisers in
DUCKLINGS your area. Start with day-old ducklings. But buy only birds with
steady legs, alert eyes and healthy-looking down feathers.
BROODING 4) The ducklings need to be warmed until they are 1 month old.
DUCKLINGS Do not allow the ducklings to get wet during their first month. The
temperatures for brooding are as follows: 95 degrees Fahrenheit for
the first week; 80 degrees for the second week; 75 degrees for the
third week; and 70 degrees for the succeeding weeks.
CARE OF THE 5) When your ducklings show signs of sickness, give them a DUCKLINGS
solution of three tablespoons of Noxal in one gallon of water for two to
three days. Withdraw medication for three days, then give it again for
another three days. Terramycin can also be used.
To prevent avian pest, immunize your ducklings with avian pest
vaccine which is obtainable from agricultural stores in your area or
from the Bureau of Animal Industry.
HOUSING 6) Provide each duck with at least 1-1/2 to 2 square feet of floor space.
FOR DUCKS The floor of the duck house should be covered with rice hulls, corncobs,
peanut hulls or any similar materials to make it dry and clean. A dry and
clean floor helps prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
ARTIFICIAL 7) Raising ducks near bodies of fresh water is ideal because of the
POND natural food that is available in rivers, irrigation canals, etc., but you can
raise ducks without a body of water. If you want to provide water for the
ducks to swim in, you may use clay or plastic water tubs or build a small
concrete pond.
FEEDING 8) One-day to six-week old ducklings should be fed with starter ration
containing 10 to 21 per cent crude protein. Six-week-old to four-month-old
ducklings should be given a growing ration with at least 16 percent protein.
Four-month-old ducks and older should receive a laying ration containing 16
per cent crude protein.
ALL-PURPOSE 9) Commercial feeds are good for your ducks, but they are rather
FEED FORMULA expensive. You can mix your own feed. The MBRLC recommends this allpurpose
feed formula: First class tiki-tiki (rice bran), 34 kilograms; ”binlud”
(cracked rice or corn), 30 kilograms; soybean meal, 15 kilograms; copra
meal, 8 kilograms; shell powder, 2 kilograms; ipil-ipil leaf meal, 4 kilograms;
meat and bone meal, 7 kilograms; salt, 500 grams; and Afsillin, 250 grams.
SUPPLEMEN- 10) Also feed your ducks plenty of chopped green leaves of either kangkong
TARY FEEDS (Ipomea aquatica ), camote (sweet potato), ipil-ipil (NFT/S) or cassava. Give
each duck at least 10 grams of chopped green leaves daily.
You can also feed fresh Golden Apple snails to your ducks. Studies at the
MBRLC showed that Golden Apple snails in the birds' diet help increase egg
production. (See, "How to Raise Ducks with Fish and Snails," for additional
information.)
SOME 11) Provide your ducks plenty of fresh, clean water all the time.
REMINDERS Do not directly expose the birds to rain. This will cause a drop in egg
production and make them susceptible to diseases.
If you provide a swimming pond, limit their water "playing" to two hours a
day. Too much playing will tire them and make them eat more feed.
Watering troughs should be placed above the floor level if you place the
ducks inside a house. This will prevent the floor from becoming wet and
messy.
Ducks are active birds and may run in circles if they get excited in the
dark. To minimize stampeding, provide dim lighting approximately
equivalent to a 15-watt bulb per 18.6 square meters (200 square feet) of
floor space.
GATHERING 12) Ducks lay eggs at night and early in the morning. It is advisable
DUCK EGGS to gather the eggs immediately after releasing the layers for their early
morning feeding. Ducks still laying should be allowed to continue nesting;
their eggs could be collected later.
CONTROLLING 13) Practice strict sanitation, correct feeding and proper care and
DISEASES management to ensure a disease-free flock. Immediately remove
ducks that avoid the rest of the flock or refuse to eat. Confine them in a
separate pen. Call a veterinarian or any authority. Ducks that die from
diseases should be buried immediately in a deep hole.
For more extensive information on duck raising, refer to our manual "How to
Raise Ducks for Food and Profit."
HOW TO GROW EGGPLANT (SOLANUM MELONGENA)
IMPORTANCE 1) Locally known as ”talong”, eggplant is cultivated throughout
the country
for its edible fruit. The fruit is a fairly good source of calcium, phosphorus,
and iron and a good source of vitamin B. It contains about six percent
carbohydrates and one per cent protein.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of eggplant you can grow in the country,
among them: Dumaguete Long Purple, Dingras Multiple Purple #1,
Economic Garden Long Purple, and UPL-Eg-2 (Tanglaw). Mindanao
Baptist Rural Life Center is growing the Long Purple variety.
ADAPTATION 3) You can grow eggplant throughout the year provided the soil is fertile and
well-drained. It grows in different kinds of soil but grows best in sandy loam
or clay loam soils that are rich in organic matter.
PROPAGATION 4) Eggplants are propagated by seeds. Plant disease-free and treated
seeds in a seed box or seedbed just before the end of the rainy season.
GROWING 5) Water the seed box or seedbed with fine drops of water using a
TRANSPLANTS sprinkling can. Make sure the seeds do not get washed out. Keep the
seedbed or seed box moist (not too wet nor too dry) all the time until the
seedlings are well-established.
LAND 6) Before transplanting the seedlings in the field or garden, prepare
PREPARATION the area thoroughly. Pulverize the soil well using a hoe or animaldrawn
plow.
TRANSPLANTS 7) Soak well the seed box or seedbed with water before
PREPARATION transplanting to facilitate lifting the seedlings. Then "harden" the
seedlings from 7 to 10 days. This is done by gradually reducing the
frequency of watering and by exposing the seedlings in the sun. They
should be allowed to suffer from temporary wilting before watering. A
hardened seedling will stand the rigors of transplanting better and will
resume normal growth much sooner than a non-hardened one.
PLANTING 8) Make holes with a trowel. Plant the seedlings on squares 50 to 60
TRANSPLANTS centimeters apart, each way. Set the young plants in the holes at a
depth of about 1 centimeter or at the level of the base of the
seedlings. Water, then firm again.
MULCHING 9) Mulching around the stem with rice straw or dried leaves is a very
good way to keep the soil moist all the time. In addition, mulching stops the
growth of weeds and eliminates the need for cultivation.
STAKING 10) If you plant eggplants during the rainy season, it is always necessary to
provide the plants with stakes that are strong enough to prevent the plants
from falling down to the ground. Tie the main branch of the plants to stakes
to keep the plants in place. Fruiting capability of the plants will be reduced if
the plants fall to the ground.
CONTROL OF 11) In the Philippines the most common and destructive diseases
DISEASES are bacterial wilt, phomopsis, and phytophthora root and fruit
rot. These can be controlled by planting healthy, resistant varieties or
spraying with recommended chemicals such as Benlate and Captan 50 WP.
CONTROL OF 12) The most destructive insects that attack eggplants are
INSECT PESTS stem borers, spotted ladybird beetles, leafhoppers, and flea beetles.
You can control these pests by practicing clean culture, crop rotation, and
spraying with insecticides
such as Gusacarb and Decis.
HARVESTING 13) Harvest eggplants before the fruits lose their purple color and while they
are still young and tender. Harvesting is usually done 3 to 4 months after
transplanting the seedlings. Late harvesting makes poor quality fruits which
are susceptible to rapid decay. Do the harvesting during the late afternoon.
HOW TO MAKE A FAITH GARDEN
(Food Always In The Home)
INTRODUCTION 1) The FAITH (Food Always In The Home) Garden plan was developed by
the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center for home lot family gardening. This
type of vegetable gardening can provide the necessary protein, vitamins,
and mineral requirements needed by a family of six. It is also designed to
require minimum labor. As its name suggests, there will be food always in
the home if the recommended plan is properly followed.
LOCATION OF 2) Select the most fertile area in your home lot. It should contain
THE GARDEN humus, a form of plant food. The types of soils needed for vegetable
gardening are: loam, silt-loam, or clay loam.
Establish your garden on a light slope to provide drainage, especially during
the rainy season. If the area is flat, dig drainage channels or ditches around
the planting site. Your garden site must also receive sunshine throughout
the day. Growing plants need sunshine to manufacture food. In addition,
the area should have a constant source of water. Water is very important
particularly during the dry season.
SIZE OF 3) The ideal FAITH garden is six meters wide and sixteen meters long
THE GARDEN (or approximately 100 square meters). If managed properly, a garden
this size is large enough for growing various kinds of vegetables
throughout the year to supply the daily needs of a family of six.
PLANTING 4) Divide the garden into three sections, with one-half of each section
SYSTEM held in reserve for replanting. Plant one section with short-term vegetables
that will be ready for use in two to four months like soybeans, tomatoes,
pechay, cowpeas, bush sitao, and sweet corn.
The second plot is given over to vegetables which can produce for six to
nine months, including okra, onions, garlic, eggplant, winged beans, golden
squash, alugbati (Ceylon spinach), and ginger.
Vegetables that will produce for 11 to 12 months are grown on the third
plot: patani (local or U.S. lima beans), kangkong (Ipomea aquatica ), camote
(vegetable variety), taro, cassava, and pigeon pea or kadios.
Along the boundary of the garden and in the yard, permanent and semipermanent
type plants are grown. Among these are malunggay (Moringa ),
papaya, kalamansi, Barbados cherry, and guava. For fencing purposes,
plant nitrogen fixing tree species (NFTS) like ipil-ipil, madre de cacao,
flemingia, and villosa. They can also be used as sources of green manures.
BASKET 5) The central feature in FAITH Gardening is a series of raised
COMPOSTING garden beds into which bamboo baskets are set about one foot in diameter
and depth. These are filled with a little manure (goat, duck, chicken, horse,
etc.) and some decomposable garbage (peelings of banana, corn stalks,
vegetable stalks, etc.), and packed with NFTS leaves. If manure is not
available, NFTS leaves alone can be stuffed into the baskets to provide
nitrogen and other nutrients. (For further details about basket composting,
read "How to Make Basket Compost.")
PLANTING 6) The time to plant seedlings around the compost baskets in your
THE FAITH garden plots depends on the state of decomposition of materials
GARDEN inside the compost baskets. If the materials at the bottom part are nearly
decomposed, you can plant seedlings immediately. But if most of your plant
materials are still fresh and green, plant seedlings two to three weeks later.
Since camote (sweet potato), alugbati (Ceylon spinach), and kangkong
(Ipomea aquatica ) are crawling plants, plant them in separate beds one
meter wide and six meters long with a distance of 50 centimeters between
beds. Plants should be set 20 centimeters apart. These leafy vegetables
are high in iron, calcium, vitamin A, and other vitamins and minerals. Your
family should eat some of these every day.
For patani (lima bean) and winged beans, plant two to three seeds per hill
around each compost basket. Patani and winged beans are the two main
protein producing plants in the FAITH Garden. Other plants which are good
sources of protein are soybeans, string beans, and bush sitao.
Golden squash should be planted in hills 1.5 to 2.0 meters apart. You will
need to construct a trellis for cucumber, patola (gourd), and ampalaya (bitter
gourd); otherwise the vines will become a problem.
Malunggay (Moringa olifera ) should be planted two meters apart along the
boundary of your FAITH Garden. The leaves of malunggay are very
nutritious and should be eaten often. Kalamansi, Barbados cherry and
papaya should be grown in your yard. In order to fight diseases, our bodies
need vitamin C, and these trees are very good sources of this
vitamin.
If you would like to know more about FAITH gardening, read our manual on
"How to Make FAITH Garden in Your Homeyard.”
HOW TO FEED SWINE
INTRODUCTION 1) Feeds constitute almost 80 per cent of the production cost of swine
raising. Because of this, you need to know what kind of feedstuffs you
should give to your pigs.
PIG RATIONS 2) Give your pigs the recommended amount of feed for their age (see
feeding guide). Be sure to feed regularly.
SWINE FEEDING 3) The following are the suggested amounts of feeds to be given to
GUIDE your pigs at different ages:
SWINE FEEDING GUIDE
Kind of Feed Age Weight Amount of Feed
====================================================================
Pre-starting 0-4 wks. 0.6-5.0 kg. 0.3-0.6 kg./day
Starting 4-8 " 5.0-10 " 0.6-1.5 "
Growing 8-12 " 10.0-60 " 1.5-2.5 "
Fattening/Finishing 4 " 60.0-85 " 2.5-3.5 "
Breeding - 60.0 " 2.0-4.0 "
Lactating 4- 6 " - 5.0-5.5 "
====================================================================
Source: ”The Philippines Recommends for Pork Production” (1976)
PIG RATIONS 4) Only give your pigs the feed which is necessary for their growth and
appropriate for their age. In this way you can be sure they grow well and you
can also avoid spending too much. Be sure to feed at regular times.
Your major feed should be hog concentrates which provide protein, amino
acids, vitamins and minerals. Sweet potato tops, kangkong and other green
leafy feeds are to
be given only as supplements. Mungo and other beans can
be used as substitute for soybean oil meal.
Fresh leftovers from the kitchen are good food for pigs. These may be rice
or corn, gills and entrails of fish, fruit peelings, sweet potato, and other
scraps. Fresh golden apple snails are also an excellent feed.
FEED 5) Swine can adjust well to almost any kind of feed. To the practical
FORMULATION swine raiser, there is no standard ration for any class of swine. The
formula can be adjusted if there is a change in the price of feed
ingredients or when one ingredient becomes more readily available
than others. The nutrient requirements of the hogs, however, have to be
satisfied.
In formulating swine rations, know the particular class of swine for which a
ration is to be formulated. Be acquainted also with the nutrient components
and unit prices of the available feedstuffs. In addition, decide on a suitable
combination of feedstuffs so that the ration will be palatable, safe,
economical and nutritionally balanced.
ALL-PURPOSE 6) A complete, all-purpose feed for swine has been developed by
FEED FORMULA the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center. Table 1 shows this formula:
====================================================================
Ingredients Volume (in kilograms)
====================================================================
Binlud (Ground corn) 10
Tiki-tiki (Fine rice bran) 57
Ipil-ipil leaf meal (Dried) 7
Soybean oil meal 8
Copra oil meal 15
Shell powder 2.5
Salt 0.5
Afsillin or Pigromix* 0.5
====================================================================
*Optional
FEED MIXING 6) Feed mixing is a simple farm operation. You can mix swine feeds on
concrete floors or in a mixing box with a shovel or any other suitable
equipment. Irrespective of the equipment used, it is important to mix the
ingredients thoroughly to produce a uniform mixture.
FEED 2) There are three methods of preparing feeds for your swine:
PREPARATION cooking, grinding, and soaking. Most popular among backyard swine raisers
is cooking, which If ever you have some questions regarding swine feeding,
please let us know. This makes the feed easy to digest, more palatable, and
safer to eat. Grinding the feed into particle size can also increase its
digestibility. Soaking is done only when the grains have hardened from
storage and are difficult to chew.
HOW TO RAISE DAIRY GOATS
INTRODUCTION 1) Goat raising is one of the simple low-cost food production projects
that a small farmer can get involved in._
BREEDS OF 2) You may start with a native goat and mate it with a purebred,
GOATS preferably a Nubian. From Nubia, in northeastern Africa, this breed
weighs about 65 kilograms. A superb breed for Philippine farms, its
does produce an average of two liters of milk daily. The MBRLC is
one good source of purebred Nubian stocks.
Philippines Native Goat - Small but hardy, it weighs about 35
kilograms at maturity. Its average daily milk production
is only 350
grams. Therefore, it is necessary that to improve its milk production
the Philippine goat must be upgraded with the purebred Nubian goat.
Dadiangas Goat - This breed--common in Dadiangas, South Cotabato--is a
cross between the native goat and other breeds like Nubian and Jumnapari.
Other good milkes include Saanen, Alpine, La Mancha, and Toggenburg.
A new, widely adapted meat breed is the Boer Goat from South Africa.
HOUSING 3) Dairy goats need a simple house for protection. It can be constructed
using local materials available in your area. Bamboo slats, ipil-ipil poles, and
coconut leaves make fine flooring, sidings and roofing, respectively. Nipa or
cogon grass can also be utilized for roofing.
Provide at least 15 to 20 square feet floor space per adult goat. Raise the
floor of the goat house about 4 feet off the ground to facilitate easy cleaning
and manure collecting. Remember, goats do not like rain and damp places.
FEEDS AND 4) Goats will eat almost any kind of green plants with a preference of leaves
FEEDING of certain trees. Green feeds like ipil-ipil (L. leucocephala ), Flemingia
macrophylla , Desmodium rensonii , Indigofera tyesmani , kudzu, madre de
cacao (Gliricidia sepium ), para grass, napier grass, and star grass should be
given to your goats daily. In addition, feed your dairy goats concentrates.
(First class rice bran mixed with leaf meal in a ratio of 2/3:1/3 makes an
excellent feed.)
_
It is important to provide fresh clean water and salt at all times.
BREEDING 5) The female goat (doe) comes "in heat" when she is about 3 to 4 months
old, but she should not be bred until she is 9 to 12 months old. Mating too
early retards the growth of the animal and the newborn may be difficult to
rear.
REARING THE 6) About one week before the female goat is due to kid (give birth), separate
KIDS her from the herd. Give her special attention and care. As soon as the kid
is born, observe the mother and see if she licks off the mucus covering the
kid's body and around the nostrils. If she doesn't, wipe off the mucous
material so that the kid could start breathing. Dip the umbilical cord in a
solution of 50% iodine and 50% alcohol to prevent infection. If the kid does
not succeed in sucking milk from its mother, bring it to the doe and induce it
to suck by opening its mouth. After the kid is about one week old, separate
it from the doe during the night so you can milk the doe in the morning to
provide milk for your family. Then leave the kid with the doe during the day.
DISBUDDING 7) Disbud the kid four days after it is born using the hot-iron
AND DEHORNING method. Adults can be dehorned using a dehorning instrument or by sawing
off the horn close to the skull. Consult a veterinarian or an agricultural
extension worker about the procedure. Disbudding is
important because goats with horns will fight and may damage each other.
HOOF 8) Your goat's feet must be trimmed regularly once a month,
TRIMMING unless they are in a pasture or outside. Use a sharp knife when trimming
goat's feet.
DISEASE 9) Goats are liable to cold and pneumonia. Young kids
PREVENTION often die of them. As prevention, it is recommended that some bedding
consisting of old sacks or rags or dried rice straw be provided.
_
_ Goats are also susceptible to stomach and intestinal worms. These make
the animals weak and sick and if untreated, goats die of them. De-worm
your goats every six months with Tetrasole and Triabenzole.
MILKING 10) Be regular in milking and feeding your goats. In this way, you
THE GOAT will teach the goats to be regular in their milk letdown. (Note: Let the buck
stay with the doe for a short period of time only. Otherwise, the milk will
have a goat's odor.)
Dairy goats may be fed before they are milked, while they are milked, or
after they are milked. It does not make any difference when they are fed,
but the most important is they are fed according to schedule.
DISPOSING 11) When castrated goats have reached the age of 9 months to one
THE GOATS year, they are ready for slaughter. Does can be butchered for meat when
their productivity declines (about 6-8 years).
RECORD 12)Keeping records of goat stock is a good practice. The
KEEPING records will provide you with information as to which are good milkers, which
are good producers of offspring, which are good meat producers, etc.
CONCLUSION 13) Raise goats and you can produce your own milk, butter, cheese, and
meat, plus a generous supply of fertilizer for your farm or garden. (For a
more thorough discussion of goat raising, refer to our manual "How to Raise
Goats.")
HOW TO RAISE SWINE
IMPORTANCE 1) Swine raising can be a profitable venture for a farmer who puts up a small
backyard piggery project.
BREEDS OF 2) Among the well-known breeds are: Yorkshire, Landrace
SWINE Duroc, Hampshire, Berkshire, and Poland China. Some newer breeds such
as the Hypor are “hybrids” and are now commonly available.
If you are a newcomer in swine raising, it is good for you to raise the breeds
popular in your area. These breeds are easier to replace and adapted to
the environmental conditions in the locality. You may also start
with crossbreeds because they do not require the technology
needed in
raising purebreds.
HOUSING 3) Pigs are easily affected by cold and heat. You need, therefore,
AND to provide a house that will protect your pigs from heat and rain.
EQUIPMENT
Construct your hog house on a slightly sloping and well-drained site so that
the area will not become too muddy.
You may also build your pig house at the site of a fishpond. The waste of
the pig goes directly to the pond which helps fertilize the tiny plants (algae)
that serve as food for tilapia.
If you are planning to build a permanent house, cement the floor to make
the cleaning easier and to reduce the presence of parasites and diseases.
Provide your pig house with feeding and drinking troughs and a farrowing
pen.
A 9 x 10 foot pigpen can accommodate one sow and her piglets or 10 to 20
growing pigs or 6 to 8 fattening pigs. The walls separating your pens should
be about three feet high for convenience in doing your work.
BREEDING 4) Select your pigs for breeding purposes at about 2 to 3
OF PIGS months old. Choose those that come from sows which are noted for their
mothering ability, are heavy milkers, and adapted to rugged conditions.
They must be healthy and in good form.
Start to mate them when they are about 6 to 9 months. Breeding them
earlier than 6-9 months is not advisable; it may disturb the growth and
shorten the productive lives of both the boar and sow. The mating should be
carried out early in the morning on the second or third day of heat. The sow
should be mated a second time the following day. Record the date of
mating so that you can calculate the expected time when she will farrow.
CARE OF THE 5) Give your pregnant sow a balanced ration including green
SOW AND HER feeds because the young piglets in her womb also require nutrients.
LITTER The sow will be pregnant for about 115 days. Ten days before giving birth,
transfer her to a clean and disinfected farrowing pen.
Provide bedding materials in the farrowing pen. Dried banana leaves, rice
straw and similar materials are good bedding materials. If possible, install
guard rails or a farrowing crate to prevent the sow from crushing the piglets.
During farrowing, the sow should not be disturbed. Farrowing may take as
long as 24 hours or as short as 5 to 6 hours. When the piglets are born, it is
sometimes necessary to wipe the nose and the mouth with a piece of clean,
dry cloth to remove the mucus.
The umbilical cord should be dipped into an iodine solution. In addition, clip
off the milk teeth of the piglets to prevent injuries to sows' teats which could
lead to infections.
FEEDING 6) Eight days after birth, start giving piglets small amounts of pre-
THE LITTER starter feed. This will get them used to eating a solid and well-balanced diet
early, thereby realizing their full growth potential. It will also help the sow
feed her young and prevent her from over-nursing.
CASTRATING 7) Two to 4 weeks after birth, castrate the young male piglets which are not
selected for breeding purposes. Castration is done to speed up the growth
of the animals which will be fattened for market.
WEANING 8) Wean your piglets when they are about eight weeks old. In weaning, it is
best to take the sow away completely out of sight and hearing of her young
ones.
SANITATION 9) Keep your hog pen clean. Strict sanitation and cleanliness
AND HEALTH produce disease-free and healthy pigs.
MANAGEMENT
Wash the pen with clean water every day and disinfect it regularly with lysol
(weak ammonia) solution or any reliable disinfectant. If a pig or piglet is sick,
isolate it right away. Allow the pen to be vacant for three to five days before
housing other piglets or pigs in it.
The common diseases of pigs are hog cholera, anemia, pneumonia,
diarrhea, parasites, and swine plague. Contact your BAI technician or
MBRLC extensionist in your area or the local veterinarian to let you know
how to detect, control and prevent these diseases.
MARKETING 10) When castrated male pigs and fattening females reach the age of 8 to
10 months old or about 100 kilograms in weight, sell them right away.
Unproductive pigs should also be sold.
HOW TO FARM YOUR HILLY LAND
INTRODUCTION The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center (RLC) has developed a technique
of farming hilly land which helps minimize erosion and restore soil fertility.
This technique is popularly known as Sloping Agricultural Land Technology
or SALT. (For a more complete explanation of the SALT system see our
manual "How to Farm Your Hilly Land Without Losing Your Soil.") Here are
the basic steps of doing it:
LOCATE THE 1) Locate the contour lines of the hilly land by using a carpenter’s
CONTOUR level mounted on an A-frame. (See page 3 "How to UPLIFT Your Small
LINES Lowland Farm" for explanation of how to make A-frame and locate contour
lines.) Space the contour lines from 4 to 6 meters apart.
PLANT 2) Plant two thick rows of ipil-ipil, flemingia, madre de cacao
LEGUMINOUS or any other leguminous trees (such as Desmodium rensonii ,
TREES/SHRUBS Leucaena diversifolia, Flemingia macrophylla, Indigofera tyesmani,
Gliricidia sepium , etc.) on cultivated contour lines. You can also plant
one row with ipil-ipil (Leucaena leucocephala ) and the second row
with flemingia or some other variety. The roots of these leguminous
trees will hold the soil. In addition, the leaves will provide mulch and
fertilizer for the crops.
PLANTING 3) The land between the double rows of leguminous trees is called
DIFFERENT a strip or alley. It is in the strip where crops are grown. Plant your
CROPS permanent crops in every third strip. (Also plant permanent crops on
the boundaries of your land.) Grow non-permanent crops in between
strips of permanent ones. To help prevent soil erosion while the
leguminous trees are still young, cultivate alternate strips and leave
alternate strips uncultivated.
PICTURE OF 4) This is how your hilly land will look if the SALT technique is
A SALT-ED properly followed.
HILLY LAND
TRIMMING OF 5) Once a month trim your leguminous trees to one meter from the
LEGUMINOUS ground. Gather and pile the trimmings at the base of your
TREES crops. These trimmings are excellent organic fertilizer.
ROTATE NON- 6) Rotate your non-permanent crops. Plant leguminous crops
PERMANENT (peanuts, beans, etc.) where non-legumes (corn, sweet potato,
CROPS pineapple, etc.) were previously planted and vice versa.
BUILD YOUR 7) You can do this by continually gathering and piling all
GREEN leaves, stalks, stakes, branches, rocks and stones at the base
TERRACES of the leguminous trees. This is a good way to anchor down
your precious soil.
HOW TO INOCULATE LEGUMINOUS PLANTS
IMPORTANCE 1) Legumes are the richest and cheapest common source of
OF LEGUMES protein among all foods of plant origin. The protein found in legumes
is a cheap substitute for animal protein. Legumes are recognized as
important food in the human diet and supplementary feed for livestock
and poultry.
EXAMPLES OF 2) Examples of leguminous plants are: soybean, mung bean,
LEGUMES peanut, hyacinth bean, lima bean, string bean, bush sitao, winged
bean, Baguio bean, cowpea, Mississippi silver pea, garden pea,
pigeon pea (”kadios”), and sesban.
SPECIAL KIND 3) Legumes are special kinds of plants. They have the ability to hide
OF PLANTS bacteria in their roots which form nodules ("numerous rounded
masses in the roots"). The bacteria present in these nodules catch
nitrogen from the air and transform it into usable form and supply it to
the soil to be used by the next crop.
Nitrogen is present in large quantities in the air. However, without the
aid of bacteria, plants cannot use this free nitrogen in the air. And
legumes are plants which consume large amounts of nitrogen. If the
nitrogen-fixing bacteria are not present in the soil, the legumes will
have to depend much on soil nitrogen, thereby depleting the soil of
nitrogen. But you can make these nitrogen-fixing bacteria, called
Rhizobiaoe, present in your soil by a procedure is known as
inoculation.
BENEFITS 4) There are several benefits you can get when you inoculate the
OF INOCU- seeds of legumes before planting. Consider the following:
LATION
* It will prevent early nitrogen starvation of your plants.
* The demand for soil nitrogen will be reduced.
* The grain and protein yields will be improved.
WHEN TO 5) You need to inoculate the legume seeds before planting:
INOCULATE
* When the legume you are going to plant has not been
grown previously in that location.
* If the leguminous plant which was grown recently on
the land lacked good nodulation.
* When a legume is to be planted on land currently
planted in non-leguminous crop.
* When the legume to be planted is a species widely different from those
which were grown previously on the land.
* When land has not been properly managed or has been
subjected to unfavorable natural conditions.
HOW TO 6) There are two ways of inoculating seeds. The first is done this way:
INOCULATE Put your seeds in a large container and moisten them with water. Sprinkle
with the inoculant and stir to ensure that it evenly sticks to the seeds.
Inoculation should be done in the shade within one hour before planting. Do
not expose inoculated seeds directly to sunlight to avoid killing the Rhizobia.
This is the second way: Well-pulverized soil from a field recently planted to
the same leguminous plant, which is positively known to have produced
plenty of root nodules, should be mixed thoroughly with the seeds to be
planted. Plant the seeds as soon as possible after they are inoculated.
WHERE TO 7) You can buy inoculants at your nearest Bureau of Plant
GET Industry (BPI) office or at the Bureau of Soils. You can also buy them at
INOCULANTS agricultural stores in your area.
INSPECT FOR 8) Every type of legume has its own type of inoculant. Be
THE KIND AND sure to buy the right inoculant for the legume you intend to
QUALITY plant. Check for the expiration date written on the package. Do not expose
your inoculants to direct sunlight but rather store them in a cool and dark
place.
SEE THE 9) You can see the effect of inoculation two to three weeks
RESULT after planting. You can pull up some of your plants and see the
nodules or "bumps" attached to the roots. These are where the nitrogenfixing
bacteria live.
HOW TO GROW PIGEON PEA (CAJANUS CAJAN)
IMPORTANCE 1) Kadios is grown in many places throughout the country. It is a rich source
of protein, vitamins and minerals and is recommended by nutritionists as a
substitute for meat and fish. It is commonly used in such native dishes as
”tinola”, ”binakol”, and ”guinata-an”. It is also a nutritious forage crop for
goats.
Kadios is a good cover crop since it helps give new vitality to barren,
overused land. Because it is a legume, its roots develop nodules,
which bring back nitrogen to the soil. Observations at the Rural Life
Center show that it can help control soil erosion.
CLIMATIC 2) Kadios grows best in places with a long dry season. It is a
RANGE drought-tolerant crop. In fact, kadios can grow in dry areas not
suitable for other legumes.
SOILS 3) Like other legumes, kadios can be grown in any type of soil, but it
prefers soils that are well suited to growth of corn and sorghum. Don't
plant kadios in waterlogged areas, for it will not grow well. Better still,
plant it in hilly or sloping areas.
LAND 4) Good soil preparation is a prerequisite for successful
PREPARATION production. All debris and trash from previous crops must be plowed
under well in advance to afford good decomposition of the organic
matter. Two to three alternate plowings and harrowings are
suggested for this crop.
PROPAGATION 5) Kadios is propagated by seeds. You can plant them at the end of
the dry season or the early part of the rainy season.
SINGLE 6) When planted as a single crop, you need to plant kadios in rows,
CROPPING at least five to six meters apart. Drop two to three seeds per hole.
INTER- 7) Kadios can be intercropped with either corn or sorghum. You can
CROPPING also plant kadios between rows of coconut trees. In Mindanao it is a
common practice to plant kadios on the embankment of the rice
paddies. It serves as a windbreak and a fence.
FERTILIZATION 8) Since legumes are soil-improving crops, some believe that a
fertilizer application is no longer needed. However, kadios has been
found to perform better when fertilized. Apply one tablespoon of 16-
20-0 per plant as soon as you see them sprouting from the soil.
WEEDING 9) Kadios has a reputation for competing strongly with weeds, but this
is true only with full stands after it reaches a height of about 1 meter.
In early growth stages you need to control weeds in order to
conserve soil nutrients and moisture.
PEST 10) Kadios is attacked by a number of root-rots and leaf and
MANAGEMENT stem diseases. The two major preventive measures that are effective
in controlling such diseases and pests are: (1) planting disease-resistant
varieties and (2) practicing crop rotation and removing and burning any
diseased plants. If you will remove the entire top growth after harvest (either
by feeding to livestock or plowing under), this will greatly reduce the amount
of disease present when the following crop of kadios is planted.
HARVESTING 11) You can start harvesting kadios fruits at about five months after
planting. You can harvest kadios for as long as 3 to 4 years.
HOW TO RAISE LAYER CHICKENS
IMPORTANCE 1) In the Philippines the per person egg consumption is 100 pieces a year.
But the nutritional recommended consumption is one egg per day or 365
eggs per person per year. Egg production is steadily increasing every
year, but it cannot keep pace with the demand.
BREED 2) You must be very careful in buying chicks and selecting
SELECTION the laying flocks. Be sure to buy good layers from reliable sources.
The White Leghorn and its strains, which lay an average of about 220-250
eggs per year, is the most popular breed for egg production.
BROODING 3) Brooding is the care given to chicks until they are able to live by
themselves. Place the baby chicks in a brooder house which has adequate
openings to allow fresh air to come in. Artificial brooding can be done by
means of an electric or lamp brooder.
The ideal temperature for the first week is 95 degrees
Fahrenheit. Then lower the temperature by 5 degrees
Fahrenheit every week until room temperature is reached.
Overcrowding may result in the loss of many chicks. It
is suggested that in a 5 x 5 feet brooder house you put only 50 chicks. On
the fifth month, transfer them to individual laying cages.
SELECTION 4) Selection involves the grouping of layers. Choose them very
OF LAYERS carefully. Only birds with large, well-developed bodies and those which are
vigorous and healthy and showing signs of early maturity should be kept as
layers.
LAYING HOUSE 5) Build individual cages inside a house located in a well-ventilated place.
The cages must also be well ventilated. Local materials like nipa and cogon
may be used for the roof of the cage. Bamboo or slatted lumber may be
used for flooring. The walls of the cages may be of wire.
The laying house should be dry, clean, well ventilated, comfortable and
quiet.
TRANSFERRING 6) Transfer the layers to the cages when they are 20 weeks.
LAYERS TO old or before they actually begin laying eggs. Transfer only the
THE CAGES healthy layers -- those which are strong and alert with sharp eyes,
good feathers and yellow bills and legs.
FEEDS AND 7) The principal types of feeds which are available commercial
FEEDING are: starting mash, growing mash, and laying mash. These feeds
come in the form of meal, but some factories make them into pellets
or small pills which are broken into smaller pieces called crumbles.
Those who cannot afford to buy commercial feeds may mix their own.
One formula which you can follow is:
Ingredients Starter Mash Growing Mash Laying Mash
” (1 day - 2 mo) (3-5 mo) (6 mo. up)
Fine tiki-tiki 32 kilos 50 kilos 32 kilos
Corn meal 20 " 18 " 28 "
Soybean meal 30 " 14 " 12 "
Copra meal 8 " 8 " 8 "
Ipil-ipil meal 6 " 6 " 4 "
Meat & bone meal 2 " 2 " 2 "
Limestone 2 " 2 "
Salt .4 " .6 " .5 "
Afsillin .2 " .2 " .5 "
CONTROL OF 8) You must be aware of the common poultry diseases and
DISEASES AND parasites so that you can plan a systematic program of
PARASITES prevention and care. The common diseases are Coccidiosis, Avian Pest,
Roups and Fowl Cholera. The common parasites are cecal worms, round
worms, lice and mites. A recent illness that comes around from time to time
and is various serious is called Avian flu.
Coccidiosis is the most serious disease of chicks. Cocciodiostats like
sulfamethazine are the best cure. Chicks must be kept dry. Vaccination is
the prevention for Avian Pest and Cholera. It is very important that you
keep the surroundings very clean. surroundings and employing sanitary
methods. Dead birds suspected of having been infected with these
diseases should be burned.
The most serious internal parasites are large round-worms and cecal
worms. De-worm chickens affected by large roundworms. The most
important thing is to keep cages and equipment thoroughly cleaned and
disinfected. In case of lice and mice infection, the best control is spraying
with insecticide.
MAINTAINING 9) Separate the poor layers from the good ones. To maintain a
QUALITY LAYERS continuous supply of eggs the whole year, layers have to be changed.
Layers are most productive only during their first year. It is necessary to
start raising another group of layers 6 months before the old layers are to be
changed.
GATHERING 10) Gather the eggs not less than 3 times a day. During hot
AND STORING days, eggs should be gathered immediately. Group the
EGGS eggs according to size. Clean the dirty ones and store them in a cool
place. (A storage temperature of 100 to 15.6 degrees Centigrade is ideal.)
HOW TO GROW MANGOSTEEN (GARCINIA MANGOSTANA)
IMPORTANCE 1) One of the most delicious fruits in tropical areas, mangosteen is greatly
valued for its white, juicy, sweet pulp. Mangosteen preserves and candy
bars are popular among local and foreign tourists.
ADAPTATION 2) In the Philippines, mangosteen is grown on a large scale in Mindanao.
But it can be grown throughout the country. However, any temperature
lower than 20 degrees Centigrade slows down its growth.
PROPAGATION 3) Mangosteen is commonly propagated by seeds. However, it takes from
10 to 15 years for a mangosteen propagated by seeds to bear fruits.
Marcotted trees bear fruit in eight to nine years after planting.
SOIL 4) Plant mangosteen in rich, porous, deep, well-drained soil. The best
REQUIREMENTS soil is heavy clay with a generous mixture of sand and silt. The tree is
especially suited for planting along river banks, canals, ponds, and lakes.
PLANTING 5) Plant the seedlings at the start of the rainy season. Ideally, the
trees should be spaced seven by seven meters between plants and eight by
ten meters between rows.
SHADING 6) Partial shade is desirable during the first years of the tree's growth to
prevent premature death. Dried coconut
palm is a good shading material.
WEEDING 7) Weed the area around the trees at least twice a year. In the dry
AND season, cover the area around the trees with mulch to reduce
MULCHING moisture loss from the soil and to control weeds. The mulch will also
cushion the impact of falling fruit, preventing damage during fruit harvest.
WATERING 8) During the dry season, water the trees twice a month. Trees growing near
ponds or streams, however, don't need watering.
FERTILIZATION 9) Apply generous amounts of nitrogen fertilizer to promote vegetative
growth. Also, apply compost around the plants to enrich the soil.
INTERCROPPING 10) In large plantings, plant intercrops like peanut, soybean, winged
bean, and other leguminous field crops.
PEST 11) Look out for insects like mites, aphids, fruit borers, and flies and
MANAGEMENT diseases like anthracnose and bacterial leaf spot. To control pests, use
Methyl Parathion, Malathion, and Diazinon at the rate of two to three
tablespoons in five gallons of water. Use Manzate and Dithane Z-78 to
check fungus.
Rats and bats damage fruit by eating the pulp and seeds. The best control
method is to keep the orchard as clean as possible and to use the poison
baiting method against rats.
HARVESTING 12) Harvest mangosteen fruits when they are fully ripe. This is when the
cortex (covering) of the fruit changes from green to reddish purple. Unlike
most perishable fruit crops, mangosteen fruits picked when fully ripe can
stay fresh for several weeks under refrigeration.
HOW TO GROW OKRA (HISBISCUS ESCULENTUS)
IMPORTANCE 1) Okra is a vegetable crop that has proved to be very profitable. If properly
managed, a crop can provide fresh and delicious young okra fruits and a
year-round income to a farm family.
UTILIZATION 2) Okra can be eaten boiled, broiled, or fried. It is also widely used as an
ingredient in ”pinakbet”, a famous Ilocano dish. Young okra fruits are also
used in salads
and in many meat and fish dishes.
ADAPTATION 3) Okra can tolerate a wide range of soils but for good yield, grow okra in
silty to clay loam soils that are well-drained and contain adequate organic
matter. It likes a long, warm growing season.
VARIETIES 4) The recommended varieties of okra which you can grow in your farm or
garden are as follows: Perfected Perkins, Emerald, Sabour Selection,
Smooth Green, Climson Spineless, Lavelna, Lady Finger, Long Green,
White Velvet, Levadian, and Perkin Dwarf.
LAND 5) Plow the field first and then harrow immediately. Let the field stand
PREPARATION for seven days to allow weed seeds to germinate and grasses to
decompose. Plow again and harrow immediately to break soil clods
not pulverized in the first plowing. Let the field stand for another seven days
to allow second-growth weeds to grow. Plow the field for the third time and
harrow immediately to obtain excellent soil texture.
DIRECT 6) Okra should be directly seeded in the field. Plant okra seeds in a
SOWING soil that is slightly moist. Drop two to three seeds per hill and cover
with fine soil. Plant your okra seeds in hills 30 centimeters apart with 60
centimeters between rows.
To get uniform plant population, replant dead or missing
hills three days after the seedlings emerge.
THINNING 7) Fifteen days after planting, thin the plants to two seedlings per hill.
Remove small and sickly seedlings by hand-pulling; be sure not to disturb or
destroy the healthy seedlings.
FERTILIZATION 8) To attain maximum yield, you need to fertilize your okra plants. In the
absence of soil analysis, apply 300 to
500 kilograms of 12-24-12 (NPK) per hectare. Put 5 to 8 grams per plant.
CULTIVATION 9) To cultivate, off-bar the field by passing a plow or hoe 15 centimeters
away from the base of the plants to a depth of 5 centimeters. Throw the soil
clods between the inter-row spaces. The plants covered by soil during the
off-barring should be saved by removing the soil carefully from the stems
and leaves.
PEST 10) Okra plants are attacked by several insects and diseases:
MANAGEMENT common cutworm, corn earworm, melon aphid, flea beetle,
leafhopper, eelworm, mosaic, root knot nematode, and pod spot of okra.
Protect your okra plants from them by spraying with chemicals following the
recommended dosage stated in the label, planting resistant varieties
and and crop rotation.
HARVESTING 11) Harvest fruits frequently when they are still young and tender. You can
commence harvesting usually two to three months after sowing. You can
get about 20 to 25 tons of fruits per hectare.
CONCLUSION 12) Plant okra in your farm now. This will give you an extra income while
doing other farm works.
HOW TO GROW PINEAPPLE (ANANAS COMOSUS)
IMPORTANCE 1) The pineapple fruit is eaten raw by most Filipino people. However, It can
also be made into a variety of products: jam, juices, preserves, marmalade,
”nata de pina”, frozen pineapple, dehydrated pineapple, and candied
pineapple.
ADAPTATION 2) Plant pineapple in an area where it can get plenty of sunlight. It will not
grow well and will not produce big fruits if planted in a shaded place. The
soil should also be fertile and well-drained.
VARIETIES 3) There are several varieties of pineapple grown in the country, among
them: Smooth Cayenne, Queen (also known as Formosa), Red Spanish,
Hawaii, Cabezona, Hilo, Sugar Leaf, Singapore Spanish, Natal Caning,
Buitzenzorg, and Bogor. Select the best variety for your area.
SELECTING 4) Select only planting materials (crown, suckers and slips) that are
PLANTING healthy, vigorous and uniform in size and shape. To prevent rotting,
MATERIALS sun-dry your planting materials for a week or two before planting.
SYSTEMS OF 5) There are three systems of planting pineapple. Select a system which
PLANTING fits your purpose best:
Single Row System - In this system, the plants are spaced about one to
one-and-a-half feet apart. Weeding, spraying and harvesting are easier.
The fruits are bigger, but the total plant population is lesser than the double
row system. The single row system can accommodate only about 30,000 to
40,000 plants per hectare.
Double Row System - This is the most common method of planting
pineapple. The planting materials are grown in double rows with paths
between them to allow entry for weeding and other cultural practices. The
spacing is one foot between hills and one-and-a-half feet within double rows
and four feet between rows. This system gives about 40,000 to 50,000
plants per hectare but the fruits may not be as big as in the single row
system.
Multiple Row System - This system appears like a big plot or bed with three
to eight rows of plants. The distance between plants in a bed is one foot
and the distance between beds is four feet. This system has a population of
about 50,000 to 60,000 per hectare but the yields are not as big as in the
single and double row systems.
FERTILIZATION 6) Pineapple needs nitrogen and potassium. Phosphorous is also needed,
but Philippine soils generally have sufficient phosphorous. During the first
month, apply one-half tablespoon of 0-0-60 plus one tablespoon of 20-0-0 or
46-0-0 per plant. Four months later, fertilize each plant with three-fourth
tablespoon of 20-0-0 or one teaspoon of 46-0-0. Apply one-half tablespoon
of 0-0-60 plus one tablespoon of 20-0-0 or one teaspoon of 46-0-0 per
plant. On the tenth month, fertilize with three-fourth tablespoon of 20-0-0 or
one teaspoon of 46-0-0 per plant.
CULTIVATION 7) Give regular light hoeing around the base and between your pineapple
rows to eliminate weeds and improve air and water circulation in the soil.
IRRIGATION 8)If your farm is irrigated, you may flood it for 12 hours once every 15 days
during the driest part of the year. There should be enough moisture in the
soil from flowering to fruiting; otherwise, fruit size will be affected.
DRAINAGE 9) If your farm is flat and has many low areas, construct drainage canals so
that the plants won't be injured by excess water after heavy rainfall.
PEST 10) There are few serious pests that attack pineapple. Disease
MANAGEMENT attacks are more serious than insect infestation. Major diseases
include heart rot, water blister, brown spot, yeasty rot, marbling, pink
disease and root knot. The insects are root-grub, mealy bug, armored scale
insects, mites, fruit and stem borers. They can be controlled and/or
eliminated by spraying affected and infected plants with pesticides
recommended by the manufacturers.
FLOWER 11) If you want pineapple to bear fruits out of season, here is what
INDUCTION you should do:
Mix two kilos of carburo in a big kerosene can of water. Then stir the
mixture thoroughly.
Be sure that only pineapple with 36 matured leaves or at the age of 14
months are applied with carburo mixture. Younger plants should not be
flower-induced because they cannot give good size fruits.
For your measuring cup, use a small sardine can. Pour one-half can of
carburo mixture on the heart of every pineapple plant with 36 matured
leaves.
Apply only once per plant. Do this in the late afternoon to avoid evaporation
of the chemical.
HARVESTING 12) Harvest pineapple fruits only when fully matured, usually when
they reach the age of 16 to 18 months. Care should be taken so that the
fruits are not injured during harvest.
HOW TO RAISE RABBITS
IMPORTANCE 1) Rabbit raising is one of the most simple, low-cost food production projects
that a farmer can get involved in. Rabbits are easy to care for and can
supply meat for your family as well as additional source of income.
SELECTION 2) Select young rabbits which are offspring of prolific (rapid multiplier) does
OF BREEDERS which know how to suckle or nurse their young. As for the buck (male),
select those that are aggressive and well developed. Both the buck and doe
should be vigorous and healthy and free from any defect.
Ideally, you should start with one male and two females. It is best to buy
them at two months old, right after they are weaned. Be sure to buy your
breeding stock from reliable sources.
HOUSING 3) For a home rabbit project, it is necessary to build hutches (cages). The
cage should be located in a quiet place. Avoid constructing the rabbit house
in an area where it could be hit directly by sunlight.
Each rabbit should have at least 8 square feet of floor space although 10
square feet is better. A good pen size is 2-1/2 feet long by 4 feet wide by 2
feet high. Each rabbit must be housed in separate pen. Buck and does must
be separated.
FEEDS AND 4) Rabbits are greedy eaters. Their diet consists of a mixture of legumes,
FEEDING grasses, camote tops, and tubers. Bean and pea leaves, kudzu,
centrosema, Japanese weed, and ipil-ipil are good sources of protein plant
material, although you must be careful not to give more than 5 percent ipiipil.
It is good to supplement with other available greens, so feel free to
experiment. But ”minimize feeding of kangkong (Ipomea aquatica) to your
rabbits.
You will also need to feed some form of concentrate to get maximum
production. Feed millers sell concentrates good for rabbits. Chicken feed
can also be used. If pellets are available, they can be mixed with other kinds
of feed.
Give 1 ounce of concentrate mixed with green feeds and leftovers to a 2-
month old rabbit twice every day.
Give 4 ounces of concentrates mixed with green feeds to
a more than 3-month old.
Provide plenty of fresh clean water and salt at all times. The rabbits drink
plenty of water, especially during lactation. Feeds should be given twice a
day: once in the morning and once in the afternoon.
FEED 5) A suggested mixed feed for rabbits is the following:
MIXTURE
Binlud (cracked rice) - l5.250 kilograms
Copra meal - 3.725 "
Ipil-Ipil leaf meal - l.000 "
Soybean meal - 5.000 "
Shell powder - .l25 "
Salt - .250 "
BREEDING 6) It is very important that you take the female to the pen of the male for
breeding. Do not place the male in the pen of the female. The male should
serve the female two times. If the female runs from the male, restrain her or
take her out and place her back with the male the following day.
In breeding, avoid the hot hours of the day. Breed rabbits early in the
morning (5:00 to 8:00 a.m.) or late in the afternoon (4:00 to 7:00 p.m.). Do
not leave the female in the pen overnight with the male.
KINDLING 7) Does will kindle (give birth) about 31 days after breeding. Place a boxshaped
nest (12" x 24" x 12") in the hutch one week before kindling. Do not
disturb the doe during kindling. Wait 24 hours after kindling to look at the
babies and to remove any that are dead.
At kindling time, the doe will be extremely nervous. Keep children, dogs,
cats, and other animals away.
CARE AND 8) When baby rabbits show signs of sickness, dissolve one-half
MANAGEMENT teaspoon of Sulmet in one liter of water. Give this solution for three days.
(Terramycin powder, animal formula, can also be used.)
The young rabbits will come out of the nest box after ten days and begin to
eat greens and concentrates at three weeks. After two months, they are
ready to be weaned. At this time, the mother should be rebred and the
young fattened to be butchered at five months.
RECORD 9) It is a good idea to keep records for good management and control of
KEEPING the stock. The basic information, which should be recorded are: age of the
doe, date doe was bred, expected date of delivery, and number of young
weaned per litter. You must know when to prepare the doe for kindling to
prevent the loss of her young. The more you know about each doe, the
better you will be able to distinguish between a quality doe and one which
should be replaced.
CONCLUSION 10) You can easily see the benefits of raising rabbits. They consume only a
little of your time, reproduce rapidly, and are a source of high quality protein
for your table. In addition, rabbit raising will provide employment of idle
hours of some members of the family, particularly the boys and girls, and
thus direct their excess energies to productive efforts.
HOW TO GROW RAMBUTAN (NEPHELIUM LAPPACEUM)
IMPORTANCE 1) Rambutan is one of the most exotic fruits in the world and is gaining
much popularity and wide acceptance in the Philippines since its
introduction at the start of the century.
VARIETIES 2) There are several cultivars grown on commercial scale in various parts of
the country: Seematjan, Seenjonja, and Maharlika. They are distinguished
from each other by the length of their spines, their shape, the weight of
edible fruit portions, and the ease with which the pulp separates from the
seed. Newer varieties that are popular are the Rongrien and S-2.
ADAPTATION 3) Rambutan grows well in the Philippines, particularly in areas where the
rainfall is well distributed. It also performs well in places having three dry
months or an average length of less than four months dry season.
Rambutan trees can tolerate many soil types, but for best results grow them
on a deep, well-drained, loamy soil.
PROPAGATION 4) Rambutan is propagated by vegetative means and by seed. Propagation
by marcottage is not advisable because when the root-bearing young plants
are transplanted in the field, a large number die. For rapid production of
high-quality rambutan trees, propagation by budding is recommended.
PLANTING 5) Prepare a planting hole large enough to accommodate the root system.
Before planting, it is advisable to mix some topsoil, fortified with 50 to 100
grams of commercial fertilizer or with a shovelful of well-rotted compost, with
the soil at the bottom of the hole. It is very important to have the crown roots
no deeper than they were in the nursery or in the containers. The soil should
be firmly packed around the roots and water should be used liberally to
avoid air pockets.
FERTILIZATION 6) The amount and kind of fertilizer to apply on rambutan trees will vary with
the age and condition of the tree, the size of the crop, and the environmental
factors including the soil. However, it is not possible to outline specific
directions as to the recommended fertilization guide. While the tree will grow
and fruit under conditions of total neglect, it very definitely responds to
fertilization. We have found rambutan to be very responsive to heavy
applications of goat manure.
PRUNING 7) In rambutan, like many other tropical fruit trees, very little pruning is
normally practiced. This tree tends to develop balanced branches which
makes it weak and subject to breakage whenever strong winds blow.
Branches with narrow angles are also common. Therefore, pruning is
necessary to produce a stronger tree.
HARVESTING 8) Generally, the fruits are ripe about 3-1/2 months or 14 weeks from fruit
set. The color of the fruit will change from dark green to dark red, reddish
pink or yellow, depending on the variety. Rambutan fruits do not all ripen at
one time. It is necessary to pick only ripe fruits. That is why, in most
orchards, harvesting is done three times a week.
HOW TO GROW LOWLAND RICE (ORYZA SATIVA)
IMPORTANCE 1) More than half of the world's population rely entirely on rice as a staple
food. Aside from its numerous uses as food, other products include fuel,
compost, mulch, and fertilizer from the hulls and rope, brooms, mats, sacks,
and hay from the straw.
ADAPTATION 2) Lowland rice is grown mostly on rather heavy clay soils. It can be grown
throughout the year provided there is a sufficient supply of water or a
relatively abundant rainfall--particularly during the growing stage.
SEED 3) One to three days before sowing, treat the seeds with any of the
TREATMENT following: Spergon, Arasan, Furadan 3G and Ceresan M. Be sure to follow
the recommended dosage in the label.
SOAKING AND 4) Soak the seeds in clean water for 24 hours and then drain. Spread
INCUBATING them uniformly to a depth of two to four inches over wet sacks.
THE SEEDS Cover the seeds with another layer of wet sacks to keep them moist and
warm. Maintain the moisture throughout the period of incubation.
You can incubate the seeds for 36 to 48 hours, but do not go beyond this
specified duration.
PLANTING 5) You can plant rice seeds in three ways: the wet-bed method, the
SEEDS so-called "dapog" method, and the dry-bed method.
FIELD 6) You need to plow the field at least three times in order for the
PREPARATION short stumps of grain left standing after harvesting to decompose and
for poisonous decay products to be eliminated before transplanting. Clean,
repair and mud line all dikes. Harrow the field twice to break up clods, bury
weeds, and to level and puddle the soil. Do the last harrowing one day
before transplanting.
TRANSPLANTING 7) Seedlings are transplanted in the field at the rate of two to three
seedlings per hill. If planted randomly, space the seedlings about 20 x 25
centimeters. In straight-row planting, there is no definite spacing followed.
(Normally, however, for wet season the spacing followed is 25 x 25
centimeters and for dry season it is 20 x 25 centimeters.
IRRIGATION 8) Water is a very essential element in rice production. However,
MANAGEMENT irrigation management practices depend on the amount of water
supply. If your area is greatly dependent on the rain, retain the water within
the paddy for as long as it does not reach a depth which can be dangerous
to the rice plants.
WEED 9) Weeds in rice fields may best be controlled by a combination of
CONTROL cultural practices like thorough field preparation, timely application of
suitable chemicals, clean cultivation of rice growing in rows, and hand
weeding. Control of weeds in other crops grown in rotation with rice is also
very important.
FERTILIZATION 10) During the dry season, the irrigated transplanted rice must be fertilized
with a formulation of 90+30+30 per hectare. For rain fed areas, clay soils,
the required rate is 60+30+0.
For wet season, the rate of fertilizer application on irrigated, transplanted
rice varies depending on soil conditions. However, the rate falls within 60-70
kg N, 30 kg P, and 30 kg K. Irrigated, transplanted rice requires 3 bags of
16-20-0 and 2 bags of 46-0-0 per hectare.
PEST CONTROL 11) The most common insect pests that will attack your rice crop are the
following: rice stem borer, leafhopper, rice whorl maggot, planthopper, grain
sucking insect, army worm, cutworm, rice leaf folder, and rice caseworm.
You can control these by planting resistant varieties, spraying of
recommended insecticides and sanitation in the field.
CONTROL OF 12) There are many rice diseases which threaten the rice plants,
DISEASES among them: rice blast, tungro, brown spot, bacterial leaf blight, bacterial
leaf streak, yellow dwarf, grassy stunt, and orange leaf. Preventive and
control measures include: spraying of fungicides, crop rotation, planting
resistant varieties, treating seeds before planting, and sanitation in the field.
HARVESTING 13) Some varieties can be harvested as early as 110 days af ter
transplanting (DAT). Others can be harvested 135 DAT. Only very few are
harvested 145 DAT. It is important that you know the characteristic of the
rice variety you have planted, particularly the date of maturity or number of
days after heading.
Usually the rice is harvested using a sickle (”lilik’ in Tagalog or ”garab” in
Visayan). The sickle is held in one hand for cutting and the other hand is
used for gathering.
THRESHING 14) Manual methods of rice threshing are foot treading by both man and
animal, rubbing action, flail threshing (”hampasan”) or beating on tubs, logs,
boards, or rocks (impact) and pedal threshing. ”Hampasan” is the most
common method where a handful of harvested stalks is beaten on bamboo
slats, stones, logs, or other objects for three to ten times, depending upon
the threshing characteristics of the variety, until all the grains are removed.
DRYING 15) Immediate and proper drying of newly harvested rice is necessary to
prevent spoilage losses and maintain seed quality. You can do the drying by
spreading the ”palay” on concrete floors or any other surfaces favorable for
drying.
HOW TO PRODUCE YOUR OWN SEEDS
INTRODUCTION 1) The propagation of plants is basically divided into two types: the sexual
(or propagation by seeds) and the asexual (or propagation using vegetative
parts of plants). This leaflet deals mainly on one aspect of propagation--the
production of seeds.
STEPS IN 2) In maintaining seeds of desirable quality, the Mindanao Baptist Rural
SEED Life Center is recommending these simple steps – a result of years of
PRODUCTION experience and actual work.
”Step One”: 3) Select the plants most resistant to pests and diseases, those that
SELECTION flower and ripen earlier, have more fruits or pods, and the type that you
need (as to size of the fruit, height, and other unique characteristics).
Selection should be done preferably a week before harvesting the entire
crop. Tag your selected plants with a bright-colored ribbon.
”Step Two”: 4) Harvest the seeds or pods when they are matured. This is usually when
HARVESTING the seed parts are fully developed.
“Step Three”: 5) In processing, carefully extract the seeds from their pod or fruit.
EXTRACTING Extraction may be accomplished by beating the pods, by threshing or
treading them under foot, by drying them under the heat of the sun, or by
manually opening the fruit and extracting the seeds by hand.
”Step Four”: 6) Drying under the heat of the sun is the most convenient to use. Dry
DRYING processed seeds (like mungo, string beans and other legumes) usually take
three days to dry under the sun whereas wet processed seeds (such as
tomato and eggplant) need to be dried for four days. In cases where there
is off-and-on sunshine, you can test the dryness of your seeds by biting one
of them with your teeth. Dry seeds are brittle and hard to bite.
”Step Five”: 7) After drying, select the best seeds, culling those with insect holes,
TREATING undersized or damaged in some way. Then treat the seeds with pesticides
SEEDS to prevent insects and diseases from attacking them. Sevin powder, an
insecticide, is generally used at one teaspoonful per three kilograms of
seeds. To keep fungus in check, Captan powder is recommended, following
the same dosage as Sevin.
”Step Six”: 8) After treating seeds, store them in airtight containers. In general, seeds
STORING have the ability to absorb water from the air for some time after drying. If
SEEDS their moisture content changes, this will result in a shorter storage life. Any
old, unused jar could be used for storage, but be sure to wash the jars and
dry them under the sun before using them.
”Step Seven”: 9) Testing the viability (or germination percentage) of seeds is important
GERMINATION before planting them in the field so you will have and idea as to the
TESTING quantity of the seeds you are going to use. If germination is poor, you need
to increase your seed quantity or discard the seeds.
METHODS OF 10) Germination testing falls under three methods: the rag-doll, the plate,
GERMINATION and the seed box. Below is a brief description of each method:
TESTING
”Rag-doll method” - In the rag-doll method, take 100 seeds at random from
the sample and place them in a piece of moistened cloth (about 12" by 18").
Then roll the cloth containing the seeds around a pencil-sized stick 18
inches long. After rolling, tie the edges to prevent the seeds from falling.
Place in a dark, cool place and keep moist.
After 7 to 10 days, open the rag-doll and count the germinated seeds. The
number of germinated seeds will be equal to the percent germination. If 80
seeds have germinated, the germination rate is 80 per cent. This means for
every 100 kilos of seeds, 80 kilos will germinate and the remaining 20 will
not.
”Plate method” - Cover a kitchen plate with 5-6 folds of tissue paper. Place
one hundred seeds on top of the tissue paper. Cover it with a second layer
of tissue paper. Sprinkle the covered seeds with water three times a day.
Follow the same procedure used in determining percent germination in the
rag-doll method.
”Seed box method” - The soil to be used in the seed box method should
composed of one part sand, one part compost and one part ordinary garden
soil mixed thoroughly. After mixing, you need to sterilize the soil by pouring
boiling water on the surface of the soil or burning dried leaves of banana on
top of the soil. Then plant the seeds. If you plant 100 seeds and 80 seeds
germinate, the germination rate is 80 percent.
CONCLUSION 11) Doing these simple procedures will provide you seeds of good quality--
seeds that will increase your production and your farm income.
HOW TO GROW SESAME
IMPORTANCE 1) Sesame is a major oil seed crop for the tropics and the subtropics. The oil
is used extensively for cooking, for direct use as food in dressings of various
sorts, and for lighting. It can be used also for the production of margarine.
CLIMATIC 2) Sesame performs best when the temperature is high throughout its
REQUIREMENTS entire growing period. An average daily temperature of about 26 degrees
Centigrade favors growth and fruiting. Seeds will not germinate when soil
temperature is below 21 degrees Centigrade. The plant is fairly droughtresistant
but it needs a minimum of 300 millimeters of rainfall in the entire
growing period.
SOIL 3) Sesame is adapted to a wide range of soils, but prefers well-drained,
REQUIREMENTS fertile, medium-textured soil. It grows in plains and up to an elevation of
1,200 meters above
sea level.
VARIETIES 4) There are two varieties of sesame grown in the country: the white and the
black varieties. Some high yielding white-seeded varieties that may be used
for oil extraction and for confectionaries and delicacies are Japanese white,
Guatemala white, Mexican varieties, and the white-seeded native. Most
black varieties are good for oil extraction.
LAND 5) Since sesame seed is small, it should be planted rather shallow on a
PREPARATION firm but mellow seedbed. All living weeds should be destroyed, and trash
removed or plowed under. Since the crop is usually grown in areas with
limited rainfall, land preparation should run across the slope to aid in
retention of rainfall and to minimize runoff.
PLANTING 6) As soon as the field is ready for planting, drill the seeds 50 to 60
centimeters apart for non-branching types, and 70 to 80 centimeters apart
for branching types to get better yields. To plant one hectare, you need four
to six kilograms of sesame seeds.
IRRIGATION 7) Irrigation is very important at planting time, but afterwards the crop
requires irrigation only once or twice during the growing period. However,
make sure water is available to the plants during the pre-flowering and prefruiting
stages.
THINNING AND 8) Seeds sprout from five to seven days after sowing. If there is a need,
REPLANTING thinning or replanting should be done two to three weeks after seedling
emergence, leaving two vigorous healthy plants in each hill.
CULTIVATION 9) When the plants are well-established three to four weeks after
AND WEEDING seeding, do the first cultivation. Carry out the second cultivation when the
plants are 30 centimeters in height. Then hill-up.
FERTILIZATION 10) To increase yield, fertilize your sesame plants. Apply
a balanced commercial fertilizer at 200 kilograms per hectare at planting
time. Organic fertilizer can also be applied at the rate of 750 kilograms per
hectare as basal application. The most common commercial fertilizers used
are urea, complete, and ammonium sulphate.
DISEASE 11) Frequent rains and high relative humidity may produce disease
CONTROL outbreaks on sesame. In areas having a moderate to limited rainfall, disease
prevention is feasible by two practices: (1) growing strains or varieties that
are resistant to locally prevalent diseases, and (2) field sanitation. Field
sanitation should include crop rotation so that sesame is not grown on the
same field
in successive seasons, and also the removal of all crop residues after
harvest. These practices greatly reduce the disease hazards. In extreme
cases, however, spray with fungicides.
INSECT 12) Prompt planting at the very beginning of the rainy season will
PEST CONTROL eliminate many or most of the insect problems. There are two preventive
measures that should be practiced: (1) planting of strains or varieties that
have resistance to the prevalent insect pests, and (2) removing all residues
immediately after harvest. These practices, combined with early planting,
will reduce insect damage.
However, whenever specific insects multiply to the point of serious injury, an
insecticide that is toxic to the species should be applied. Prompt treatment is
most likely to be effective. Be sure to follow the recommended dosage
written in the label. Never apply insecticides just before harvesting and
avoid using insecticides
containing sulphur for they affect sesame plants.
HARVESTING, 13) Varieties differ in length of growth period, from 85 to 150 days.
DRYING, AND Generally, however, harvesting starts as soon as the plants cease
THRESHING flowering, and the leaves have turned yellowish and are being shed. Since
Sesame capsules ripen unevenly and shatter (in the shattering varieties),
cut the crops when they are still green. Cut the plants at their bases. Tie
them in bundles. Place the bundles on mats and thick cloth when drying
them under the sun and beating them.
After threshing and drying the seeds, remove inert materials, weeds or weed
seeds, and deteriorated seeds by winnowing.
STORAGE 14) Dry sesame seeds down to 10 to 14 per cent moisture content before
bagging and storing them in open air. If the seeds are to be used for
planting, treat them with either fungicide or insecticide. But if intended for
food, pack the seeds in bags without treating and then sell or use.
HOW TO GROW BUSH SITAO (VIGNA SPP.)
INTRODUCTION 1) Bush sitao, a widely grown legume in the Philippines, can provide you
with a good source of income besides giving you a cheap source of proteinrich
food. This dry season crop is easy to plant and takes only a short
period of time (about one and one-half months after planting) to grow.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of bush sitao grown in the country. You can
plant any of the following: UPL-BS 1, UPL-BS 2, UPL-BS 3 (Sumilang),
UPL-BS 4, LBBS #1, E.G. #2.
LAND 3) Prepare the land thoroughly by plowing and then harrowing the field two
PREPARATION to three times. This will ensure healthy and uniform growth of bush sitao.
Make furrows 50 to 75 centimeters apart.
SEED 4) Like most legumes, bush sitao is propagated by seeds. If your seeds
TREATMENT have not been treated, you need to treat the seeds with fungicide and
insecticide before planting. Mix three to five grams of Sevin 85S and two to
three and a half grams of Orthocide 50WP with every one kilo of seeds.
PLANTING 5) Drill holes on each furrow and drop 3-4 seeds in each hole. The distance
between each hole should be 10-20 centimeters.
FERTILIZATION 6) Apply proper fertilizer to ensure a good yield. If properly fertilized and
managed, bush sitao yields as much as 8,000 kilos per hectare. The
fertilizers needed are: 30-50 kilos of nitrogen, 70-120 kilos of phosphorous,
and 30-50 kilos of potassium per hectare.
During the dry season, apply all the required fertilizer at seed planting. Apply
manually in bands 5-8 centimeters along the sides of each furrow and bury
5-8 centimeters deep.
If you plant during wet season, apply half of the required nitrogen and all of
the phosphorous and potassium at the time of planting. These should be
buried and spaced 5-8 centimeters from each furrow. Side-dress the plants
with the remaining amount of nitrogen three weeks after planting the bush
sitao seeds.
IRRIGATION 7) You need to water the field evenly and thoroughly to ensure uniform
germination and flowering of the plants.
WEEDING 8) Uproot weeds since they compete with your plants for light, nutrients and
moisture.
PEST 9) Control pests, insects and diseases that will attack your bush sitao plants.
MANAGEMENT Use insecticides and fungicides to fight them. Just follow what the label
states.
HARVESTING 10) Harvest the pods seven to eight days after blooming or when the seeds
are partly developed. This would be 40 to 55 days after planting.
HOW TO RAISE GOLDEN APPLE SNAILS
IMPORTANCE 1) The golden apple snail is much larger than the native kuhol and can grow
to the size of a human fist. In addition, the meat is very delicious. The native
kuhol has a thick shell while that of the golden apple snail is much thinner.
PROPAGATION 2) Golden apple snail culture is very simple. They reproduce rapidly. Each
cluster of eggs numbers about
125, and hatchability under normal conditions is about 80%.
ADAPTABILITY 3) The golden apple snail is adaptable to a high rate of stocking. You can
grow them in a small space with water one inch to one meter deep. In fact,
under intensive culture, the water level should be kept low so the snails can
extend their breathing tubes above the water.
CULTURE 4) You can grow golden apple snails in almost any pond or container. You
can start with small home lot ponds, concrete tanks, old aquariums or any
water container (wooden, metal or plastic). A container measuring 2 to 4
square feet and 1 to 2 feet high can be stocked with a dozen breeders.
Apartment dwellers can stock golden apple snails in plastic cans, drums, or
aquariums. People in subdivisions with garden pools or ponds can also
produce golden apple snails for home consumption.
Fish farmers can stock golden apple snails in freshwater ponds, nearby
lakes, fish pens, fish cages, irrigation canals, and paddies. Any pool or
container can be utilized as a grow-out pond.
FEEDS AND 5) The golden apple snail eats anything that decomposes. This means it
FEEDING feeds on almost any organic matter or aquatic vegetation. Kangkong
(Ipomea aquatica ) and azolla are found to be the best aquatic foods and can
be acquired almost without cost.
You can also feed them with duckweed, hydrilla, water hyacinth, grasses,
Ipil-ipil leaves, camote tops, kulitis, malunggay, vegetable scraps (pechay,
cabbage, etc.) as well as papaya and gabi (taro) leaves. They will also
consume your kitchen scraps (such as banana and papaya fruit peelings
and leftovers of boiled corn the cob itself), rice straw, corn stalks, etc. They
will feed and grow well on livestock and fish feeds like rice bran, corn bran,
and chicken mash, but these should be used sparingly as they are
expensive.
REPRODUC- 6) Depending on the size of the breeders, the golden apple snail can lay
TIVITY between 50 and 300 tiny, pink eggs, which are 2 millimeters in diameter.
The female lays eggs about two times a month. The eggs are bright pink
and will become whitish when about to hatch. Hatching takes 12-15 days
and maturation takes from 2©1/2 to 3 months.
COMPATIBILITY 7) The golden apple snail can be raised in ponds with other varieties of fish
such as tilapia and carp and with clams.
PREDATORS 8) Here at the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center we have observed that
the golden apple snail has very few enemies. In fact, the snails reproduce
well in nearby streams and canals. Though we have observed tilapia eating
the tiny baby snails, this does not interfere with snail population.
EGG-LAYING 9) The female snail lays a large number of eggs about twice a month in a
very peculiar way. She crawls out of the water at night or during late
afternoon and lays her eggs above the water. She will lay eggs on the sides
of the pond or container or on sticks, which have been placed in the water.
Place sticks 1 to 1-1/2 meters long and 2" to 4" in diameter in the pond for
the snails to climb on and lay their eggs.
POTENTIAL 10) Fresh snails are an excellent source of protein for ducks and hogs and
USE can also be utilized as feed for other animals. At present the Rural Life
Center is testing ways of using golden apple snails in duck raising. The high
cost of protein feeds is a limiting factor in duck egg production on Mindanao.
A system has been developed to raise snails in an economical way so
farmers can enjoy modest profit from duck raising. Test results show that
ducks raised on an ample supply of snails, first class rice bran mixed 50-50
with ground corn, and green forage sustain about 60-80% egg production.
NOTE OF 11) The golden apple snails attack one to two-week old rice seedlings,
WARNING starting from the base of the plants, then devouring the young leaves. In just
3-5 minutes, an adult snail can consume a whole blade of rice. Because
of this, it is recommended that rice should always be planted in an ”upright”
position if golden apple snails are present.
In areas where the snails have invaded the rice paddy, the farmer can bring
in ducks after harvest to help control the snails. You can also collect the
snails to be used as duck feed or food for your family. There are sprays that
are effective against snails if they become a problem in the rice field. You
can also drain the water from the paddy for one week in order to kill the
snails since they cannot live without water.
HOW TO GROW SORGHUM (SORGHUM VULGARE)
IMPORTANCE 1) Sorghum is a good source of extra income for farmers during the lean,
dry months. It is also a good substitute for yellow corn as feed for your
animals.
GROUPS OF 2) There are hundreds of varieties of sorghum but they are usually
SORGHUM classified into four basic groups: grain sorghum, forage (or grass) sorghum,
sweet sorghum (or sorgo), and broomcorn sorghum.
SOIL 3) Sorghum can tolerate various types of soils. It can grow well on heavy
REQUIREMENTS clay or light sandy soils and can tolerate waterlogged conditions for a few
days. However, a well-drained soil is highly preferable for best growth and
development.
CLIMATIC 4) Sorghum can be grown during both the wet and the dry seasons. During
REQUIREMENTS the wet season, planting should be timed so that harvest falls within the
early dry season.
LAND 5) A well prepared seedbed is necessary for a good stand, an effective
PREPARATION weed control and the conservation of soil moisture. Sorghum requires a
seedbed that is deep, well pulverized, and free from weeds at planting time.
PLANTING 6) Plant sorghum in rows 75 centimeters apart. Drop two to three seeds per
hill at a distance of four centimeters apart.
FERTILIZATION 7) In the absence of soil analysis, apply 100 kilograms of nitrogen (N), 50
kilograms of phosphorus (P), and 50 kilograms of potassium (K) per
hectare. One half of the recommended N and all of P and K should be
applied as a basal at planting time.
The remaining N is applied as a side dress when sorghum is already knee
high. Eight sacks of complete fertilizer (14-14-14) plus two sacks of urea
(46-0-0) per hectare will meet these requirements.
IRRIGATION 8) In dry areas, two or three irrigations are suggested, the first given 35 to
45 days after emergence, the second during the flowering stage and the
third during the milky ripening stage.
CULTIVATION 9) Cultivate the field at least two times and then hand weed the second
AND WEEDING cultivation.
INSECTS 10) Insects such as shoot flies, maggots, and thrips cause damage during
AND THEIR the seeding stage. Borers, sorghum midge, and sorghum head worms
CONTROL cause damage in the heading stage. You can control these pests by
spraying with chemicals like Lannate, Malathion, Furadan, Sevin, and
Basudin. Follow the recommendations written on the label.
DISEASES AND 11) Fungus leaf diseases including leaf spots, downy mildew, rusts and
THEIR CONTROL blight can cause problems--especially in humid areas. You can use resistant
varieties to control these diseases. In some cases, use chemicals like
Dithane M-45 and Tekto-90. Also, treat the seeds with Arasan before
planting. In addition, practice field sanitation and burn infested leaves and
stalks after harvest.
CONTROL OF 12) The most destructive pests of sorghum are the birds called “maya.”
OTHER PESTS They eat the developing grain but cause more damage when grains are
matured. Any practice to repel these birds is advisable.
HARVESTING 13) Harvesting is done about 35 days after flowering during dry season.
Grain sorghum intended for feeds is harvested 30 days after flowering, at
which time the grain moisture content is about 24 per cent. For seed
purposes, sorghum is harvested 35 days after flowering at moisture level of
about 18 per cent.
THRESHING 14) Sorghum panicles are harder to thresh than rice. Newly harvested grain
sorghum must first be dried to facilitate threshing. When the grain sorghum
has a moisture content of 14 per cent or less, threshing can be done
manually or mechanically. Many rice threshing machines of the hold-on
feeding type provided with a cylinder and wire loop teeth can be used
effectively for threshing sorghum.
DRYING 15) Newly harvested grain sorghum should be dried to a moisture content of
13 to 14 per cent. This is equivalent to 3-4 full days of drying under the sun.
STORING 16) Well dried sorghum grain can be stored in sacks. The sacks can be
stacked for storage, but good ventilation should be provided.
HOW TO GROW SOYBEANS (GLYCINE MAX var.)
IMPORTANCE 1) Soybeans are perhaps the world's oldest food crop and are one of the
most concentrated and nutritious foods known to man. They rank as one of
the five great protein foods and are often referred to as "the meat that grows
on vines." Dry soybeans contain twice the amount of protein found in meat
and ten times that of milk. Growing soybeans is one of the most economical
ways you can add more protein to your diet.
Soybean is one of the most useful leguminous plants. Viands, snacks, and
desserts are made from the green mature beans. Soybean flour, soybean
sprouts, and fermented products like ”tausi” and soy sauce are prepared
from the dried beans. Soy cheese and tofu are made from soymilk. The oil
from soybeans is used in the manufacture of cooking oil, margarine, salad
dressing and vegetable shortening.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of soybeans grown throughout the country.
For commercial production, the following varieties are recommended: BPI L-
114, CES 434, Clark 63, TK-5, and UPLB-Sy2. For vegetable purposes you
need to plant Kanrich, E.G. Special, or Kahala.
SOILS 3) Soybeans can be grown in nearly all types of soil, but best results will be
obtained from mellow, fertile, sandy or clay loam soil. Soybean seeds do not
germinate well in soil that is too dry or too wet.
CLIMATIC 4) Most varieties mentioned above can be grown throughout the country.
REQUIREMENTS They need plenty of water during the growing period and dry weather during
the stage of ripening of fruits.
LAND 5) Prepare the land thoroughly. Plow the field and then harrow until the soil
PREPARATION is well pulverized.
SEED 6) Be sure that the seeds you are using for planting come from healthy
TREATMENT and disease-free plants. Treat the seeds with fungicide such as Arasan or
Captan to protect them from soil-borne diseases and insect pests.
SEED 7) Like string beans, soybeans can get free nitrogen from the air. To help
INOCULATION them produce their own nitrogen, you need to inoculate the seeds before
planting. (Please read our leaflet "How to Inoculate Leguminous Crops.")
However, you can plant soybeans without inoculating the seeds.
PLANTING 8) Plant your soybeans in rows 75 centimeters apart. Drop 2 to 3 seeds per
hill at a distance of 5 centimeters apart. Sow the seeds at a depth of 2 to 3
centimeters. After germination thin your soybeans to 20 plants per linear
meter.
FERTILI- 9) Soybeans are legumes; therefore, they meet their requirement for
ZATION nitrogen through the root nodules. In the absence of soil analysis, you need
45 kilos of phosphorous and 45 kilos of potassium per hectare. All the
recommended fertilizers should be applied as basal at planting. (Four and
one-half sacks of 0-20-0 plus one and one-half sacks of 0-0-60 will meet the
necessary fertilizer requirements.)
WEEDING AND 10) Soybeans compete poorly with weeds at their early stages of growth.
CULTIVATION One way of eliminating weeds is through cultivation. Cultivation may be
started two weeks after planting and continued when the plants are about
six inches tall. Extra care should be taken during cultivation
so that the
roots of the plants are not injured. Cultivation should stop when the plants
begin to bear flowers.
CONTROL 11) Soybeans are susceptible to insect attack. Insects that considerably
OF PESTS damage soybeans include cutworms, aphids, nematodes and bugs. Control
cutworms by spraying the plants with Basudin 20 EC. You can control bugs
and aphids by spraying the plants with Furadan 3G, Mipcin 50 WP, or
Malathion 57 EC.
CONTROL 12) Bacterial pustule, soybean rust, and soybean mosaic are common
OF DISEASES diseases of soybeans. Selection of seeds from disease-free plants, the use
of resistant varieties, crop rotation, clean culture, and the use of fungicides
are good control measures.
HARVESTING 13) The soybean crop is ready for harvest 120 to 150 days after planting,
depending upon the variety you planted and the season you are growing
them. For general purposes, the crop can be harvested when about 90%
are mature. The plants may be pulled up and tied into small bundles. These
bundles may be set into stacks and threshed as soon as they are dry.
POSTSCRIPT 14) Do not burn the stalks or leaves of the soybeans after harvest. They are
very good fertilizer so just leave them in the field.
It is advisable to plant corn after the soybeans because there will be lots of
nitrogen left in the soil which corn needs for its growth.
HOW TO GROW STRING BEANS (VIGNA SPP.)
IMPORTANCE 1) The string bean, also known as pole sitao, is a nutritious
vegetable and
is one of the most popular edible legumes grown in the country.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of string beans grown throughout the country.
Examples of these varieties are Yard Long, Economic Garden Pole Sitao
No. 1, DES Pole Sitao No. 1, UPCA 1, UPCA 2, UPCA 5, BPI-Pole Sitao 1,
BPI-Pole Sitao 2, BPI-PS 3 (Maagap), and UPL-PS 2(Sandigan).
SOILS 3) You can grow string beans in well-drained sandy loam to clay loam soils.
They can be intercropped with other vegetables. Also, they can be planted
anywhere: rice dikes, fishpond dikes and backyards.
LAND 4) String beans grow well in a well-prepared field. The number of plowings
PREPARATION depends upon the soil condition and weed population in the area where you
are going to plant the crop. After each plowing immediately harrow the field.
INOCULATION 5) String bean is a leguminous plant and for best results you should
inoculate the seeds before planting. To do this, put the seeds in a big
container. Moisten them with a small amount of water. Then mix the
inoculant thoroughly until all the seeds are coated.
Legumes need a special inoculant. Ask from your provincial agriculturist or
extension worker the kind of inoculant to be used for mixing with your seeds.
The inoculant will help string beans produce their own nitrogen.
You can, however, grow string beans without inoculant.
PLANTING 6) Seeds should be planted in furrows by drilling two to three seeds per hill.
They should be planted as shallow as soil moisture permits, (usually 2.5 to
3.5 centimeters deep). Seeds should be covered with soil two times the
diameter of the seed. The spacing requirement between rows is 100
centimeters and 30 to 50 centimeters between hills.
STAKING 7) String beans need stakes to support them. The best materials for stakes
are madre de cacao and ipil-ipil. Stakes should be placed as soon as the
seeds start to germinate.
CARE OF 8) While the string beans are still young, you need to train them to climb on
THE PLANT their respective stakes. Do this carefully so as not to break the stems,
leaves or buds.
CULTIVATION 9) Twenty days after planting you need to cultivate the soil around the
& WEEDING plants thoroughly. Also uproot weeds. Cultivation and weeding are
necessary to prevent competition for nutrients by grasses and weeds.
IRRIGATION 10) If you plant string beans during rainy season, irrigating the plants is not
necessary. Rainfall during the period is sufficient to support the normal
growth and development of the string beans until harvest time.
However, if the string beans are planted during dry season or at the end of
the rainy season, you need to flood the field once a week until the soil is
saturated. Do not allow excess or running water to stay in the field. Drain
extra water immediately.
FERTILIZATION 11) In the absence of soil analysis, apply 50 kilos nitrogen, 120 kilos
phosphorous, and 50 kilos potash per hectare. Put the fertilizer twelve
centimeters away from the plant and cover it with fine soil, 2 centimeters
thick. Thereafter, water the plant just enough to make the soil moist (not too
wet and not too dry).
MULCHING 12) During dry season, it is advisable for you to mulch your plants with rice
straw, dried leaves or any other suitable material to conserve as much soil
moisture as possible. Mulching also prevents the soil from baking.
INSECT 13) There are a number of insects that attack string beans: bean flies, bean
CONTROL pod borer pyralid, aphids, common cutworms, bean bugs and spotted
ladybird beetles. Control these insects by planting resistant varieties, crop
rotation and spraying insecticides.
DISEASE 14) Fusarium root rot and bean rust are the most destructive diseases of
CONTROL string beans. To date there is no chemical known which can control
fusarium root rot. Bean rust can be controlled by spraying with either
Benlate, Dithane M-45 or Zerlate.
HARVESTING 15) Harvest your string beans when they are tender, right before they
become fibrous and have developed prominent seeds. This is about 7 to 10
days after blooming. Pick the pods every two to four days. Harvesting
should be done early in the morning so that the pods will not be exposed to
strong sunlight. Heat causes shriveling and hastens the deterioration of
vegetables. Handle pods carefully to avoid damaging them.
HOW TO GROW SWEET CORN
INTRODUCTION 1) You can grow sweet corn in your farm as food for your family and as cash
crop. Sweet corn is a good vegetable and makes a very nice crop. Sweet
corn is very saleable in the market and at the bus stop.
VARIETIES 2) There are three high-yielding sweet corn varieties that you can grow in
your farm: Hawaiian Super Sweet, Golden Cross Bantam, and Huron. There
are many other hybrids but for home yard production, we recommend open
pollinated varieties.
ADAPTATION 3) Sweet corn grows well in moderately heavy loam which is rich in organic
matter and well drained during the rainy months. You can produce goodquality
sweet corn if you grow it in places where the temperature becomes
cool at night (70 degrees Fahrenheit), or where the elevation is 1000 feet
above sea level. The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center is growing the
Hawaiian Super Sweet which produces well at low altitudes.
LAND 4) Plow the field and then harrow until the soil is well pulverize to provide
PREPARATION a mellow seedbed and to promote rapid germination.
PLANTING 5) Plant your sweet corn in rows 75 centimeters apart. Plant three to four
seeds per hill at a distance of 50 centimeters apart in a moist soil having a
depth of three to four centimeters. After germination, thin your sweet corn to
two plants per hill.
FERTILIZATION 6) Sweet corn responds well to fertilizer. Apply a basal application of
complete fertilizer (14-14-14) at one tablespoon per hill at planting time.
Apply a side dress application of urea (46-0-0) at one tablespoon per hill
when your sweet corn is knee high.
WEEDING AND 7) Weeding and cultivation are necessary to prevent nutrient competition
CULTIVATION with grasses and weeds. Weed and cultivate when you see it is necessary.
PEST 8) Insects such as shoot flies, cutworms, corn borers, army worms, and
MANAGEMENT earworms cause damage to your sweet corn. You can control these pests
by using Furadan 3 G. Apply three grams per hill as basal application with
your fertilizer at planting time. At six weeks, apply Furadan 3 G to the whorl
at three grams per plant. These pests can also be controlled by spraying
with Furadan, Lannate and Malathion. Follow the recommended dosage
written on the manufacturer's label.
HARVESTING 9) Harvest your sweet corn at its late milk stage and at its early dough
stage. For best sweetness, harvest late in the evening and deliver to the
vendors that same night. Sweet corn should be boiled immediately after
harvest, and if it cannot be boiled right away, it should be stored in a cool
place. Golden Cross Bantam can be harvested in about 75 days after
planting; Hawaiian Sweet, and Huron in about 100 days. You will have to
wait 150 days after planting before you can harvest glutinous corn.
At harvest, trim off the flag-leaf including the butt to prevent fast shrinkage of
kernels.
Never allow corn to stand in piles as deep as 50 centimeters except when
they are in transit. When they are not in transit, spread them apart or pour
water over them to keep them cool. While glutinous corn can stand rough
handling, good-quality sweet corn should be handled with extra care.
HOW TO GROW SWEET PEPPER (CAPSICUM ANNUUM)
IMPORTANCE 1) Known locally as ”atsal”, sweet pepper is one of the fruit vegetables you
should plant. The fleshy fruit is an excellent source of vitamin A, iron,
phosphorous and niacin. The green leaves are an excellent source of
calcium.
VARIETIES 2) Among the varieties of sweet pepper grown in the Philippines are:
California Wonder, Dingras All Season, Improved World Beater, Pimiento,
and Giant King. The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center is using the Yolo
Wonder variety which grows well in this area.
USES 3) Sweet peppers are an important ingredient in many Filipino dishes. Fresh
sweet peppers are a common part of tossed salads and relish trays; they
are particularly tasty when stuffed with any of a vast number of mixtures of
meat and vegetables.
CLIMATIC 4) You can plant sweet pepper during hot or rainy season since it can
REQUIREMENTS tolerate a range of climates from warm temperate to tropical.
SOWING 5) Sweet pepper, like tomato and eggplant, is propagated by seeds. Buy
THE SEEDS your seeds from reliable sources. Sow the seeds in a seed box following the
distance of one inch between hills and two inches between rows. If you
sow in a seedbed, the seeds should be sown five centimeters apart in rows
and in hills. Then cover the seeds, level the soil surface, press firmly and
water moderately.
CARE OF THE 6) You should not let the seed box or seedbed dry up. Until the seedlings
SEEDLINGS are well-established, keep the soil fairly moist. Water the seedlings in the
morning before the sun is hot.
Thin the seedlings after they develop two pairs of true leaves. Remove
weak, abnormal seedlings. Fifteen days after sowing spray the seedbed or
seed box with 24 grams of complete fertilizer (12-24-12) mixed with 10
liters of water. Rinse the seedlings with tap water after fertilizing.
TRANSPLANTING 7) You can start transplanting your sweet pepper if they have attained at
least four true leaves. Do this in the late afternoon to prevent wilting. You
should plant the seedlings at a distance of 30 centimeters by 40
centimeters apart in hills and in rows.
MANURING AND 8) Put one to two handfuls of manure in each planting hole you have
MULCHING prepared. Whether planted during the dry or rainy season, you should mulch
the spot where the seedlings have been transplanted. You can use either
dry leaves or rice straw. Mulching is more effective when done right after
transplanting the seedlings.
WEEDING 9) You should control weeds to attain maximum crop yield. You can control
weeds by timely cultivation, and cultivation also helps your plants absorb
water and improves soil aeration.
IRRIGATION 10) Your sweet pepper plants need moderate irrigation. Lack of moisture in
the soil will result in poor yield. Provide your field with drainage canals so as
to avoid injury to your plants in case of sudden heavy rain.
FERTILIZATION 11) To attain maximum yield, you need to fertilize your sweet pepper. The
recommended fertilizers for one hectare are 60 kilos of nitrogen, 130 kilos of
phosphorous, and 95 kilos of potassium. Use half of this as basal treatment.
The remaining will be applied as a side dressing one month after planting.
PRUNING 12) Prune your sweet pepper to maximize production. Pruning should be
done carefully with a sharp knife.
INSECTS 13) Aphids, spider mites and leafhoppers can attack your sweet pepper any
AND THEIR time. You can control them by spraying your plants with chemicals at
CONTROL manufacturer's recommended dosage. For aphids, use either Malathion or
Azodrin 202R. Dimethoate controls spider mites. Leafhoppers can be
controlled by either Meptox, Folidol, or Fosferno.
DISEASES 14) The diseases of sweet pepper are bacterial wilt, anthracnose and fruit
AND THEIR rot. You can prevent bacterial wilt by planting healthy, vigorous seedlings
CONTROL which are soaked in antibiotics like AgriStrep and Phytomycin.
Anthracnose can be controlled by a continuing and thorough spray program
using Dithane M-45. To prevent fruit rot, spray the infected plants with
Benlate and copper fungicide. Also collect and remove infected plants and
burn them.
SUNSCALDING 15) Sun scalding is not a disease. It is caused by the unequal exposure of
fruit to the scorching heat of the sun. It can be prevented or minimized by
covering the fruit with cut grasses or tying the leaves together.
HARVESTING 16) Sweet pepper, depending on the variety you planted, can be harvested
80 to 120 days after transplanting. You should use a sharp knife in cutting
the stem.
HOW TO GROW SWEET POTATO (IPOMEA BATATAS)
IMPORTANCE 1) The sweet potato, locally known as "kamote" is considered to be the most
important root crop in the Philippines. It is an important part of the diet in
many parts of the country and is a good cash crop.
You can cook sweet potato in various ways: boiled, baked, fried or mixed
with other root crops to form the Filipino delicacy "guinata-an." You can also
make it into a candy. Sweet potato tops are eaten as a vegetable.
The tubers and the leaves can be utilized as feed for hogs, golden snails,
goats, etc.
VARIETIES 2) There are several varieties of sweet potato grown in the country. Among
the most common are BNAS 15, Georgia Yellow Yam, C-430, Leyte, SP
#45, Variga, U.P.R., Mississippi, and Initlog.
CLIMATIC 3) Sweet potato can be grown any time of the year. It can endure
RANGE considerable drought but cannot bear water logging.
TYPES OF 4) You can plant sweet potato anywhere. It has a wide range of soil
SOIL adaptability. It grows in sandy loam to clay loam soils.
PROPAGATION 5) The best planting materials for sweet potato are the terminal cuttings
although tubers and slips could also be used.
Terminal cuttings should have at least four nodes. To obtain this number
they are usually cut about 20-25 centimeters long.
Prepare the cuttings a day or two before planting. Remove the leaves of the
cuttings by trimming close to the nodes to prevent evaporation and to induce
root formation. Then bundle the cuttings and arrange upright under a shade.
LAND 6) To have a good yield of root crops, soil should be thoroughly prepared.
PREPARATION Land should be plowed and harrowed twice or until soil is very loose and
friable.
PLANTING 7) Raised beds could be used, especially on small-scale production. For
METHODS large areas, plant the cuttings on ridges at the following distances: 75-100
centimeters between rows and 20-30 centimeters between hills.
CULTIVATION 8) You need to cultivate your sweet potato plants before the vines start to
crawl.
WEEDING 9) Try to control weeds. Weeding is done while the vines have not yet
covered the spaces between them. When the plants have covered entirely
the spaces between them, you need not to weed any more.
WATERING 10) You should water your sweet potato plants especially during their
vegetative growth. Frequent light watering is better than heavy watering at
long intervals. Sweet potatoes need constant moisture throughout their
growing season for best production.
PRUNING 11) You should not prune your sweet potato plants. If you do, there will be a
lesser yield of tubers.
FERTILIZATION 12) Under high soil fertility or normal soil conditions, none or little fertilization
is needed. But under low soil fertility you need to fertilize your sweet potato
plants.
INSECT 13) Sweet potato weevil is the number one pest of sweet potatoes. You can
CONTROL control it by spraying with Lebaycid. Tortoise shell beetle can be stopped by
using Malathion E-57 or Hytox. Diazinon 20EC or Basudin 40WP is sprayed
to combat cutworms.
DISEASE 14) Sclerotium blight is a disease which causes infected plants to wrinkle
CONTROL and wilt. A well-planned crop rotation checks the disease. Black rot may
also be controlled by crop rotation.
HARVESTING 15) Early maturing varieties mature in 70 to 90 days from planting while late
maturing varieties require 120 days or more. Sweet potatoes may be
harvested by shallow plowing if the area is large or with a shovel or “guna” if
the area is small.
HOW TO TAN RABBIT SKINS
INTRODUCTION 1) Aside from their meat, rabbits are also valued for their skin. There is a
ready market for the skins that are produced from the rabbitry. Rabbit skins
are used extensively in the making of furs and garments, as well as in the
pelting industry. Some of the high-quality men's hats are made largely from
rabbit fur. The additional income from pelt will help cover the cost of
raising rabbits, so it pays to remove the skin properly when dressing the
rabbits.
SLAUGHTERING 2) Do not feed the rabbits the day before butchering them, because much of
the skins are wasted during the cutting process. In order to skin a rabbit
properly, you should first suspend the rabbits by its hind legs securely facing
you. Hold the head firmly with your left hand and a sharp knife in your right
hand. Pull down the rabbit with a jerk to break its neck with your left hand
and cut just behind the head to drain the blood. When the blood is drained,
continue the cutting across the back of the head down to the tip of the jaw
including all of the thick fur covering the neck and jaw. Then, make a slit
down the back of both hocks. At this point, loosen the flesh at the sides of
the hocks with your fingers preparatory to skinning the carcass. Cut the tail
at its base and also the two front legs above the joints at least half an inch
high. With two hands, pull the skin down the carcass until the skin is pulled
off whole like a sock. Immediately afterwards, soak the skin, tail, and feet in
a soap solution.
Meanwhile, make a slit on the rabbit's flesh from the rectum, down to the
breast, taking care not to puncture the intestines. Remove the entrails.
Wash the meat and hang it to air. The last step is to wash the skin
thoroughly with soap and again in clear water to remove all the blood and
dirt. Gently squeeze the skin between your hands. Never twist or wring the
skin. Drain to remove the water.
CURING THE 3) First, soak the skins in highly concentrated salt solution for one night.
SKIN The following day, squeeze the water from the skin but again do not twist.
Salt thoroughly the flesh side of the skins (1 k salt/pelt).
From time to time examine the skins to see if any portion is not covered with
the salt. Rub more salt on any uncovered portion. Poor salting will result in
the later dropping off the fur.
ACTUAL 4) Before de-fleshing the skin, prepare the tanning solution as follows:
TANNING
a. Dissolve 500 grams of alum in one gallon of hot water in a pail.
b. Dissolve 250 grams of salt and 125 grams of soda in another pail.
c. One cup formalin
When these solutions are already dissolved, pour the salt-soda solution into
the alum solution slowly at the same time stirring with a wooden paddle.
DE-FLESHING 5) While waiting for the mixed solutions to cool off, de-flesh the skins to be
THE SKINS tanned. De-fleshing is one of the hardest parts of tanning. It is done by
starting from the back portion of the skin and working circularly. When all the
skins are de-fleshed, immerse them in the tanning solutions for three to
thirty days. Stir the skins three times a day since the chemicals separate
and settle to the bottom of the pail. (De-fleshing is accomplished by scraping
the skin with a small drawing knife.)
WASHING THE 6) After immersing the skins in tanning solutions, wash them in soft water.
SKINS Start with water that had been mixed with borax (one spoonful to a gallon) to
remove the tanning chemicals, then wash several more times in plain clear
water. Press and squeeze out the water but do not twist or wring the skins.
STRETCHING 7) Stretch the skins on a piece of No. 9 galvanized iron wire 1.5 meters long
AND OILING bent like an inverted V shape and covered with plastic tubes to prevent the
frames from rusting. The fur sides should be down and the flesh out. When
this is done, apply mineral oil or castor oil thinly and evenly on the skins.
Hang the skins in a shaded place not under the direct sunlight to dry.
BUFFING 8) When the skins are about 95 per cent dried, commence working or
kneading them. Buffing or stretching the skins until they are as soft as linen
handkerchief may take hours. This is also one of the most critical part of
tanning process. Negligence can never be repaired. The more you buff the
skins, the better. When the skins are well dried and soft and are ready for
use, powder them with talcum.
HOW TO RAISE TILAPIA
IMPORTANCE 1) There are many good things about the tilapia which make raising it
profitable. You can secure fries or fingerlings from a variety of sources
including the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center. All that you need is
initiative, industry, and patience and in four months tilapia are ready for your
table.
SELECTING 2) Select a site where water is accessible throughout the year. It should be
POND SITE well exposed to sunlight, which hastens the growth and multiplication of
small aquatic plants called algae ("lumot"), which serve as food for the
tilapia. More important, it should not be flooded during rainy season.
PREPARING 3) The size of the pond should be determined by the number of fish you
THE POND want to raise. A good guide is 2 to 3 mature fish per square meter of water
surface. The depth of the pond should be 1 meter with water not less than
three-fourths meter deep. Manage the water so that it will not flow
continuously through the pond.
To insure that no fish will escape, fine-meshed bamboo or fence should
screen ponds that have waterways connecting them to canals or outside
water. Both the inside and outside end of each waterway should be
screened. Use big bamboos for inlets and outlets for small ponds.
FERTILIZING 4) Since the pond is newly-constructed, you have to apply fertilizer. Do
THE POND this one week before stocking. Apply chicken manure on the pond bottom
with water depth of about 6 centimeters at the rate of one kilo for every 10
square meters.
Fertilize the pond once a month to insure good production of algae. You can
either use commercial fertilizer or organic matter like manure, compost, ipilipil
leaves, etc. If you do not have organic matter, apply every month onehalf
kilo of urea and one-half kilo of 15-15-15 for every 100 square meters of
water surface.
SECURING FISH 5) Obtain your first supply of young tilapia from any reliable fishpond owner.
FINGERLINGS One source of tilapia fingerlings is the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center. _
If fingerlings are unavailable, you need about 20-30 pairs of good breeders
to start reproducing in your tilapia pond of 10 x 20 feet.
If fingerlings are available, you will need to plan on about 5 to 6 fingerlings
per square meter of water surface area.
The most common breeds of talipia available are: Nilotica, Mozambique,
and GIF (genetically modified).
STOCKING 6) Before stocking the pond with tilapia, be sure to drain it thoroughly and
THE POND remove the weeds and unwanted fish that may be present. Allow your pond
to dry up until it cracks before refilling with fresh, clean water. Fertilize the
pond one week before stocking.
Stock the pond either early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the
water temperature is low in order to avoid weakening of the fish. Allow the
water in the pond to mix gradually with the water in the fish container before
putting the fish into the pond.
FEEDING 7) Since fish ponds do not always provide enough natural food (algae), you
YOUR may want to feed your fish with supplementary fees such as rice bran, copra
TILAPIA meal, etc. During the first month, give fingerlings supplementary feed twice
a day at the rate of two to three percent of their body weight.
Grow kangkong along the border of the pond, but the kangkong (Ipomea
aquatica ) should occupy not more than 5% of the water surface to enable
the fish to get sufficient oxygen. Aside from giving you a fresh leafy
vegetable, kangkong will also provide food for the fish.
CONTROLLING 8) Man, nature, and other kinds of fish are enemies of tilapia. Keep your
TILAPIA pond off-limits to children and other people for they might throw in _
ENEMIES poisonous chemicals which are disastrous to tilapia.
Nature does its damage by means of heavy rain. Heavy rain causes flooding
which will wash away the fish and algae. It also kills fingerlings and destroys
dikes. Repair immediately any destroyed dikes. If your home lot is easily
flooded, place stones around the top of dikes to prevent the escape of fish if
the water overflows.
Find ways to keep the mudfish (“haluan”) out of your tilapia pond. The
mudfish is a ferocious predator of tilapia fingerlings and ever larger fish.
HARVESTING 9) You can harvest tilapia by using a dip net or a lift net. Lower the net down
to the bottom of the pond and spread a small amount of feed on the water
just above the net. Lift the net as fast as possible to prevent the escape of
the tilapia. After harvesting, stock the pond again.
PIG AND 10) Research at the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center shows that you can
TILAPIA make your fishpond more productive and profitable by raising a pig at the
site of the pond. Waste of the pig goes directly to the pond and helps to
fertilize the tiny plants (algae or “lumot”) that serve as the tilapia's main food.
Tests prove that tilapia cultured in this kind of pond can be eaten without
any harmful effect. Many farmers in Mindanao have already adopted this
technology in their own fishponds.
USES OF 11) Tilapia is a good quality food and has a firm and delicious flesh.
TILAPIA Unlike bangus, it has few fine bones. Tilapia is suitable also for processing
into dried, salted-dried, smoked or pickled products.
Tilapia is a good insect and worm predator and is known to help clean many
injurious insects from ponds. To a certain extent, tilapia can help in keeping
down the number of mosquito larvae, thus preventing them from developing
into troublesome and harmful mosquitoes.
HOW TO GROW TOMATO (LYCOPERSICON ESCULENTUM)
IMPORTANCE 1) Commonly known among Filipinos as ”kamatis”, tomato is one of the
most common ingredients of Filipino dishes. It is served raw or cooked and
can be processed into tomato sauce, ketchup, or seasonings.
CLIMATIC 2) Tomato grows best in areas with mild seasons and without too much
RANGE heat or rainfall._ _
SOILS 3) You can grow tomato anywhere, but for best results you should plant it in
a fertile, well-drained and easily crumbled soil (sandy to clay loam).
VARIETIES 4) There are several varieties of tomato grown in the country. Here at
Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center, we find the VC 11 performs more
satisfactorily. It has proven to be resistant to many types of diseases.
PROPAGATION 5) Tomatoes are propagated by seeds. Sow seeds in a seed box or
seedbed just before the end of the rainy season. A seed box (45 x 30 x 7.5
centimeters in dimension) is very convenient for starting seedlings.
SEED 6) Seeds bought from reliable seed sources like the Mindanao Baptist Rural
TREATMENT Life Center are usually treated with fungicides and insecticides prior to
storage. However, if no treatment was done, you need to treat your seeds
with Captan (Orthocide) at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 3 kilograms of seeds.
CARE 7) The seedbed or seed box should be watered moderately once or twice
OF THE a day so as to provide sufficient moisture to cause seeds to sprout after 3 to
SEEDLINGS 7 days from the date of sowing.
Harden the seedlings before you transplant them in order for the seedlings
to withstand the shock of transplanting. You can do this by reducing
gradually the frequency of watering and by exposing your seedlings in the
sun. They should be allowed to suffer from temporary wilting before
watering. A "hardened" seedling will stand the rigors of transplanting much
better than a non-hardened one.
A starter solution (made by dissolving 40 grams or 4 tablespoons of 16-20-0
analysis of fertilizer to one big kerosene can of water) can be applied 5 to 7
days before transplanting the seedlings to the field or garden._ _
LAND 8) The field should be thoroughly prepared by two to three plowings to a
PREPARATION depth of 20 to 30 centimeters with alternate harrowing.
TRANSPLANTING 9) When the seedlings are 3 to 4 weeks old, they are ready for
transplanting. You should plant the seedlings on raised beds (50
centimeters high) during rainy season. Raise the beds ahead of time--before
the start of rainy season. Plant the seedlings 75 centimeters between rows
and 30 centimeters between hills._ _
FERTILIZATION 10) In the absence of soil analysis, apply one tablespoon of complete
fertilizer per plant at the transplanting stage. At planting time apply 120-192
kilograms of phosphorus, 30-48 kilograms of nitrogen, and 30-48 kilograms
of potassium per hectare. The fertilizer should be placed about 6
centimeters deeper than the seedlings' root crowns and to the sides of the
seedlings.
One month after transplanting apply the following as side
dressing: 30-48 kilograms of potassium and 30-48 kilograms of nitrogen per
hectare.
WATERING 11) Soon after transplanting, saturate the soil in order to provide the plants
with a favorable condition for their rapid recovery. Thereafter, watering
should be done as often as necessary.
CONTROLLING 12) A good weed control program starts with good land preparation. If your
WEEDS land is well-prepared before transplanting, weeds will not be much of a
problem. Although the application of herbicides has been found to effectively
control weeds, hand weeding and shallow cultivation are still the most
popular methods of controlling weeds in tomato fields.
STAKING 13) During the rainy season staking is usually done to keep the plant and its
fruit above the ground. There are several ways of doing this. You may use
sliced bamboo sticks or nylon ropes. Madre de cacao and/or ipil-ipil are also
good materials for staking._ _
MULCHING 14) In preparing the field for mulching, beds are raised a little bit by deep
furrowing and planting is done on the ridges. Mulching materials like rice
hulls or straw are spread out either before or after transplanting.
INSECT 15) Tomato fruit worm, spotted lady beetle, melon or cotton aphid, and
CONTROL spider mite are the common insects that attack tomatoes. You can control
these insects by spraying with insecticides like Sumithion 25 EC, Basudin
40 WP, or Sevin 85S.
DISEASE 16) The common diseases of tomato are bacterial wilt, leaf mold, powdery
CONTROL mildew, bacterial spot, and tomato mosaic virus. They can be controlled by
planting resistant varieties, by practicing crop rotation, and by spraying
with fungicides._ _
HARVESTING 17) The time of harvesting is dependent on the purpose for which you grow
tomatoes. You can harvest them either mature-green, pink or breaker, or
red ripe. Fruit intended for distant markets should be harvested mature
green. For nearby markets the fruit are usually harvested either in their
breaker stage or ripe stage.
HOW TO GROW VEGETABLE TRANSPLANTS
INTRODUCTION 1) Some vegetables may be seeded directly in the field. Others are grown
first in a seed box nursery and then transplanted. Vegetable crops that
should be started in seed box or nursery include lettuce, broccoli, mustard,
cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, eggplant, sweet pepper, tomato, and radish.
ADVANTAGES 2) There are advantages in growing your own transplants. Two advantages
are that they are immediately available when you need them and they are
often less expensive to grow than to buy. Also, extra seedlings can be sold
to neighbors. But most important of all, you avoid the danger of bringing
diseases to your farm or garden.
SEED 3) Before sowing the seeds, you need to treat the seeds with pesticides if
TREATMENT you think they are not yet treated. Sevin powder, an insecticide, is generally
used at the rate of one teaspoonful for every three kilograms of seed. To
keep fungus in check, Captan powder is recommended using the same
dosage as Sevin.
PRODUCING 4) Transplants can be produced in a seedbed or seed box. The method to
TRANSPLANTS be used will depend on the grower and the available facilities.
The Seedbed Method - The seedbed method of growing transplants utilizes
a selected outdoor area, which is fully exposed to sunlight. Since the
seedlings are grown under full sunlight, hardening is not necessary before
transplanting.
The Seed box Method - Vegetable transplants can also be grown in seed
boxes containing a sterilized soil mixture.
(Soil is sterilized either by pouring
boiling water on the surface of the soil or by burning banana leaves on the
soil.) Before sowing the seeds, fill the seed box to the edge with the soil and
level it but do not pack because, after watering the seed box, the soil will
settle down.
SOWING THE 5) In the seed box method, sow the seeds thinly in shallow furrows. Do not
SEEDS broadcast the seeds. To have more or less uniform distribution of seeds in
the furrow, place the seeds in a paper packet and tap gently so that the
seeds will drop evenly. Cover them with fine sand and gently press the soil.
Soon after sowing, water the seed box with a fine sprinkler.
In the seedbed method, make rows five to seven centimeters apart. In each
row, place two to three seeds at a distance of five centimeters between
hills. (To hasten germination, some growers cover the seedbed with a
plastic sheet or rice straw which keeps the seed bed moist and warm.)
WATERING 6) The seedbed or seed box should be watered carefully every morning,
taking care not to pack the soil or wash away the top layer. Use a sprinkling
can in watering the transplants.
FERTILIZATION 7) When seedling growth is poor, fertilize them with a highly soluble fertilizer
dissolved in water. The most common practice is to use ammonium sulfate
at the rate of one tablespoon for every gallon of water.
PEST 8) The most common disease which attacks seedlings in seed boxes/seed
PROTECTION beds is damping-off. It is difficult to control but can be minimized by using
sterilized soil medium, treating the seeds with pesticides before sowing,
sowing thinly, and watering the seedlings at the right time.
HARDENING 9) To harden seedlings, you should place them in the open then gradually
withhold water from them. You should not withhold water suddenly as this
may injure the plants. Hardening seedlings grown under shelters or in seed
boxes is simply done by bringing them under the sun.
TRANSPLANTING 10) The age and size of the seedlings when transplanted considerably
affects their recovery and subsequent growth. In general, the smaller the
seedlings, the easier they are to transplant. Pechay, lettuce and mustard are
ready for transplanting 2 to 3 weeks after sowing. Tomato, sweet pepper,
cauliflower, broccoli, bulb onion, cabbage and eggplant should be
transplanted 4 to 5 weeks after sowing.
HOW TO UPLIFT YOUR SMALL LOWLAND FARM
INTRODUCTION 1) UPLIFT (or Using Properly Lowland Integrated Farming Technology) is a
simple but effective way of increasing the productivity of small irrigated
lowland farms. It integrates rice production with vegetable, tree, aquatic
animal, poultry and livestock production by recycling and utilizing organic
resources. This technology consists of ten basic steps which are discussed
below:
#1: CON- 2) The A-frame is a simple tool for determining contour lines. To make an
STRUCTING A-frame, three sturdy wooden poles, an ordinary carpenter’s level, and
AN A-FRAME string (for tying) or nails are needed. Cut two pieces of wood two meters
long to serve as the legs of the A-frame. Cut the third piece one meter long
to serve as the crossbar of the frame. The A-frame is used in locating the
contour lines of the farm.
FINDING 3) Start on one side of your farm. Let the A-frame stand on the ground.
CONTOUR LINES Without moving the rear leg, lift the front leg. Then put the front leg down on
the ground so that the air space in the carpenter's level stops in the middle.
When this happens, it means you have found the contour line, which is the
level line between the two legs of the A-frame. Mark with a stick the spot
where the rear leg stands. Move the A-frame forward by placing the rear leg
on the spot where the front leg stood before. Adjust the front leg again until
it levels with the rear leg. Follow this procedure until you reach the entire
length of the contour line, which is the other end of your farm.
#2: CON- 4) Build big dikes following the contour lines. The ideal dike is one meter
STRUCTING wide and one-half meter high; its length, however, depends on the size and
DIKES shape of your farm. Big dikes will allow you to grow different crops, thereby
avoiding dependence on rice crops only.
#3: USING 5) Divide your farm into four parts. Use one-fourth of the land for your
ONE-FOURTH home, tilapia fishpond, FAITH vegetable garden, animal-raising projects
FOR HOME, (swine fattening, goats, rabbits, and ducks). Locate these at the highest
GARDEN AND portion of your land, providing adequate land space reuirements.
LIVESTOCK
#4: USING 6) Use three-fourths of the land for lowland rice. Stagger your rice
THREE-FOURTHS production by dividing the rice area into three equal parts. The newly
FOR RICE PRO- harvested rice area will serve as a “pasture” for your ducks. Be sure the
DUCTION ducks do not visit one section of the rice area more than the other sections.
#5: PLANTING 7) Plant the middle dikes to calamansi, coffee, black pepper, guava and
THE DIKES non-permanent fruit trees like papaya. You can plant the boundary dikes to
multipurpose tree species (MPTS), which could be used for
firewood, charcoal, and light construction.
#6: FENCING 8) Fence the farm by planting closely on single row any or all of the following
THE FARM nitrogen fixing tree species (NFTS): ipil-ipil (Leucaena leucocephala ), madre
de cacao or kakawate (Gliricidia sepium ), katuray (Sesbania grandiflora ),
and other sesbanias. Prune them regularly and use the leaves as the
protein sources of your animals like goats and swine. You can also utilize
the leaves as fertilizer for your basket compost in your garden plots.
#7: MANAGING 9) Manage the water in such a way that it passes through the animal
THE FARM projects first, then to the fishponds, then to the garden plots, and finally to
the rice field. In this way, the water becomes fertile by the time it reaches
the rice farm, thus reducing the need for expensive commercial fertilizer.
#8: MANAGING 10) Feed the leaves of NFTS like ipil-ipil, madre de cacao, flemingia, or
ANIMAL FEED rensonii and grasses to your goats and swine. The leftovers should be given
to your Golden Apple snails. You may use snails in your feed rations for
ducks and pigs.
#9: MARKET- 11) Set aside one-half of your rice harvest for home consumption and sell
ING SURPLUS the surplus. You may do this also with your fish, eggs, milk, chevon, and
pork.
#10: PLANNING 12) Plan your farm operations in such a manner that you will always have
YOUR FARM adequate food, fuelwood, feeds, fertilizer, fertile soil and some cash.
OPERATION
CONCLUSION 13) Uplift yourself and your farm now! We have proven that this farming
system is simple, applicable, low-cost and timely.
HOW TO GROW WINGED BEANS (PSOPHOCARPUS TETRAGONOLOBUS)
INTRODUCTION 1) In the Philippines, winged bean is known by several local names:
sigadilyas, kalamismis, cigarillas (Tagalog); pallang, palag, palam (Ilokano);
parupagulong (Bikolano); amale (Ibanag); buligan (Ifugao); beyed,
buligan (Bontoc); sererella, segadilla, kamaluson,
karabansos (Bisaya); and batung-baimbing (Sulu).
USEFUL 2) Winged bean has many useful characteristics compared to other
CHARACTER- legumes. Consider the following:
ISTICS
- Almost all of its parts are edible. You can eat its pods as well as its leaves,
flowers, shoots, and even its tuberous roots.
- It is a highly nutritious plant. Its roots and seeds have about 20 to 34
percent crude protein. Its other parts have plenty of vitamins (thiamin,
riboflavin, niacin, ascorbic acid) and minerals (calcium, iron, phosphorous).
- You can grow it even in a very poor soil. As a matter of fact, it can help
make your soil rich. Roots of winged bean have plenty of tiny roots which
have the ability of getting nitrogen from the air and changing it into fertilizer.
WINGED 3) There are many known varieties of winged bean. Based on the length
BEAN of pods, there are short, medium, and giant varieties. Short varieties are
VARIETIES from 2-4 inches long; medium varieties are from 5-6 inches; and giant
varieties are 9 inches long or more.
Winged beans are also classified according to the color of the seeds: white,
brown, light purple, and dark purple. As to the color of its flowers, winged
bean is classified into white, light purple, and dark purple.
PROPAGATION 4) Like all beans, winged bean is propagated by seeds. Harvest your
materials for seeds from strong, healthy and ripened fruits. Pick out only
firm, full and glossy seeds. Then dry them for one to two days and mix with
Sevin powder before planting or storing. Be sure to select and plant only the
variety that grows well in your own area.
LAND 5) To ensure good stand of winged bean, plow and harrow your soil
PREPARATION thoroughly until it loosens and pulverizes well. Properly prepared soil allows
plant roots to get more nutrients. In addition, it helps control weeds which
compete with winged bean for air, sunlight, and nutrients.
PLANTING 6) Plant two to five seeds per hill at a distance of one meter between hills
and one meter between rows. The seeds should be planted at a depth of
5.08 to 6.35 centimeters (2 to 2.5 inches). Cover them with fine, loose and
easily crumbled soil.
TRELLISING 7) Being a climbing plant, winged bean grows and produces well on poles or
trellis. Build your trellis one to two weeks after planting. A good height of the
trellis or pole is about 1.5 meters (4 to 5 feet) high.
WATERING 8) Winged bean requires no special care except supplying water during
drought. Water the plants twice a day: morning and afternoon.
WEEDING 9) If ever you observe there are weeds competing with your plants, control
AND the growth of the weeds. You can control them by timely cultivation.
CULTIVATION Cultivation also helps your plants absorb water and improves soil aeration.
PEST 10) Although winged bean seems to be not so affected by insect pests, it
MANAGEMENT is wise to protect the plants by spraying with either Lannate, Malathion or
Thiodan. For fungus diseases, spray the plants with Benlate. Winged bean
is seldom attacked by fungus.
HARVESTING 11) You can start harvesting your winged bean pods about two and a half
months after sowing. The pods have four longitudinal "wings" and they
contain up to 20 seeds, each weighing about three grams. The fresh young
pods may be used in soup, pickles, salads, etc.
The young leaves and shoots of the winged bean can also be harvested
and eaten as leafy vegetables as well as pickles. The ripe seeds can be
roasted and eaten like peanuts. Seeds may also be eaten raw. They can be
ground and used as substitute for coffee beans. You can harvest about
2,000 kilograms of seeds per hectare.
Winged beans have numerous roots. The roots grow horizontally at shallow
depth and become thick and tuberous like sweet potato or camote. The
roots contain about 20 percent crude protein. The old vines and leaves may
also be harvested and can be utilized as feed for farm animals like goats,
swine, cows, and carabao.
CONCLUSION 12) The winged bean is a perennial plant. It will grow and continue to bear
abundant fruits for several years if you add a handful of fertilizer per hill
every two to three months.
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